Show I tlC S SS Ii Ojo 40 r MONEY S 1 t I j O OI 8 E I r rj t S y of T Trade ade in inS ed Products S ClUes esses Request A S t- t 1 R ION 4 ITS ITS' MEMBERS Jf J Jf 1 0 f pom refit J I ij iv Business t L CK of Deco Deco- S 1 s i r 4 S vi J I f muo 4 J. J HAS lt of be reports presented pr p profits ts bo board rd JI t h Ji littera t r ery association on G fer T to all MI s1 of f J 1 bIp ra m. m to their a eI l l FOr to Or th the Ith millinery trade has has' I as Pro profitable because of sp ii d' d 1 bit bat t trimmings i Tho The tb tr trade o always have hive come from boin the tie trimmed hats With S l almost any auy uy woman f lit pla place e some little II stick where t she s sit it best t J Utis trimmed I i Ml pu l or fromi from tob i o as ji itis Jf 80 e iso so is little on n 11 omen pay as much for fort t ii s before In fact the th cost costi i on umer ill is M not t i milliner 1 fi S i l r Ts make more i although this only ly with certain classes es of ofT T p are are char charged d for ex ex- j Iha I. I which hleb cost more mors to pro pro- thoy they are not is b large larga quantities from tile the same have b been beon on so many Bide 1145 de hats bats as during the tho present and ana 1 while these are hi high h in int t the 4 woman oman wh who has to bu buy t they really do not do-not not represent a profit t to an any one Th The braid l from they Ulel are made is expensive and andrJ andri rJ ri who irlo makes them usual usually y is m isI I by by- bythe 1 the da day and it requires a arable arable rable amount of time to make it 1 ed 4 1 Many Hats pr the clever woman oman who t it to economize fixes over her last H I tats hats to correspond with the I There are many eco eco- in the variety of this I kit kits For instance one woman aae to make two hats from one b ck one of last season With 0 f ribbon she transformed the tho thoL L uto a thie poke bonnet for morn morn- r t then made a flower garden gardon In its place the brim I. I soft loft color and tho result was for r any occasion requiring a ai i wrate l chapeau au re 18 e k hi has been a great craze for all alt altS S 81 of ba land Una made trimming trimmin to the theS S son of tho the factory products The w most in vo vogue u during the thc past have e been made in the tho here tiu tho hats bat were sold at Ie le- are expensive b because they theyS S the time tine of skilled workmen to Mi them In Lately lT several Now ow York have undertaken to pro pro- 1 on i pago a- a ao o 2 HATS TO BE ELABORATELY EMBELLISHED Continued from page 1 duce Iuca the ribbon flowers in their their factories factories fac fac- tories and arid almost immediately the price dropped Now they can be bought l t in inthe inthe in inthe the 10 cent stores and my lad lady exclusive sive sio must pr promptly sel select ct other orna- orna for her hat bat Tailored Hat Popular A feature of the millinery milliner trade this J year ar is known wn as ns the tailored hat bat trimmed with a wing cockade or similar simi Jar lar ornament made maJe either of f the material material mate mate- rial of the tho hat itself or of some contrasting contrasting con con- material These are rc trim and neat in appearance but lt it lack the attractive at i at attractive beauty of the elaborate flower and feather Ieather cr creations wh- wh which ch they thoy rival One objection of the flower trimmed hat of the past has been that the flowers flow ers so soon faded in the light This This' year car the manufacturers have o this difficulty ty The They h have he e diS discovered o ered a a W way y to mal make e flowers fadeless b by using a certain chemical chemic l process that makes all Colors colors fast This is a 3 ory a very ct valuable discovery to the economist in dress f for r ever every year flowers low How era rs that have hae been perfectly good sa sayo o fork for A So their faded c color lor have had to be di discarded I This economy to the bu buyer er however howe will probably prove th the reverse to the manufacturer as it will greatly lessen the be demand for artificial ial flowers There has las been a steady decrease for tho last ast three years rears in th the number of flowers imported The French flower mak makers rs complain loudly of the falling off of the he American n w i trade trae which dropped from francs' francs in in 1910 to o in 1911 This is not en cn duo to the simplified trimming but also to 10 the improved trade d developments develop develop- ments merits which make it possible to pro pro- luce artificial flowers flowers' in in America that r rival ival v th those S 'S s of Franc France in in beauty and quah quality t Milliners generally agree that tho the au craze ha has had an important economic bearing upon millinery Poo- Poo pIe tie buy bur automobiles on such slender purses that the calls forth forts rigid igi l econom economy i in fn oth r expenditures Millinery alwa always 8 h has s been cen governed largely largel by the stat state of the family finances and it is therefore the first luxury luxury lux lux- mx- mx ury t to tobe be reduced The Th a automobile does docs ri not t require fi fine e I hats its In l' l f fact cit th they are areather rather ather a disadvantage nta e as cheap hats and eils serve as as head covering and the average woman takes more more pl pleasure e in an an automobile spin than in displaying an elaborate hat to tOI her friends Of Pf f course f for tho woman who doeS doeS' not have to consider economy economy there here are numerous elaborate little hats liat s hown slown especially spec all designed esi ned for ut i mo o failing and the ugly helmet helmet and and cap eap affected by the feminine a Do ou ou- plo pIo of years rears a ago o is no Jon longer er to be seen Collapsible Auto Hats The Tho newest thing is a collapsible auto hat lat that may maybe be turned inside out when d desired It is a a asmaH small affair a a cross between wee a poke bonnet and a turban in n appearance pp ar n e Yh When n the wearer is ln driving along the city city streets or desires to pay visits it is ISil isa a dainty little bonnet prettily trimmed with lace and rand perhaps per per- haps laps a tiny flower or or t two o If f she is t taking kin a cr cross ss io country ride or going shopping or if a shower comes up up the hat lat is s simply tur turned ed inside out It Ithen then hen presents the tho strictly tailored ef ef- feet having for trimming a bow or r rother rother other ornament made in most cases from rom the straw braid like the hat it it self The economy of a a hat that can canDO DO be oo BO readily tr transformed has been especially noticeable during the present present pres pres- ent season when so man ninny small close fitting head coverings co have been in ln tieman de tie tie- man mand d. d One of the noteworthy features of the current styles in hats is is that there are now some shapes which may be bo worn orn equally well ell by b either men or women The mannish hat is i in high favor with many man women and it in increases increases in- in cr creases in numbers n each d year Some milliners credit it to the influence of the woman oman 8 suffrage e movement Whatever Whatever What What- ever er the cause there is no disputing the fact that the derby erby shaped hat which b ich some women omen wear ear adding per perhaps per per- Jer Imps haps a little stick up on one ODe side could be worn equally well b by her husband husband hus hus- band if the tho stick up were were omitted The real suffragist hats in the shape worn by the women in the great eat suffrage suffrage suf suf- frage fraire parade in New York last Jast May Iny varied aried a little from the derby style in being pulled down more in front One lOne firm in iD New York furnished no less les than hats of this style for the parade and it is likel likely that with the I numerous other suffrage a parades con con- contemplated in other othor cities this style willbe will willbe be he universally adopted Sell Hats for Both Sexes Whether r or not th thi similarity y in style st bt between ne me men an and aid s 's hats is is responsible for it cannot bo be determined determine but the fact remains that n a growing rowing number of stores are handling hats for both sexes and doing it fl successfully too One of tho mo most t prominent ot of 01 th these se millinery shops in St. St Louis and a husband husban i and wile wiio can go there together and each purchase p a complete or out outfit t of ot hats of ot all descriptions f from froman an imported model to 0 o a straw sailor for fot tho the lad lady and a Panama to an opera hat baj for th the gentleman Several Se other d dealers in mens men's hats in the the western cities are contemplating putting in n a nuno lIno uno lino of women women's 8 millinery during the thecO cO season The rhe headgear head of men is becoming almost as vari varied d in its styles and ma ma- tennis n ns i is that of women and each year earthe the number of models increases Not ot only women but men a as well call Mil into to service Benice tho the products of very every part of the world to gratify their vanity During Curing the present season each wen well equipped store tore dealing in mens men's hats hate ha had to have haye p panamas from Ecuador and Porto Rico and from rom Jap Japan n and leghorns from italy split braids from China ChiDa bring bring- l from Slam Siam manilas from the Philippines Philippines Phil Phil- from ioni om Borneo mackin mackinaws V from irom Canada and from Eng land in addition to the felt and fabric hats which come from France and Germany Ger Germany many and our own cO country The styles sizes sizes' au anti and shapes shapes' in which these hats fo for fort formen t men are arc made and trimmed is IS as varied as their origin and arid the time time- wh when a man mai had just one or t two o simple hats to choose from irom each season is passed parsed A An economy in n hats affected by man ninny many men is in the tle adjustable nat nati band Some Sonio m men n havo have a dozen hat i bands band for a single hat They chan change o them thorn to match their neckties or or r for other reasons College men mon men like liko to wc wear their college Collego c colors on their hats and when a ball game is on between two r rival nl college teams there is a de de- Oland for hat bands for the believers in m each team Te Test t Temperature At a recent recant exhibit In hy hygiene iene held in Dresden Germany tim tho results were given of some sonic tests test in made de as to tho the relative advantages advantages' in temperature of the toe different kinds of men men's mens s 's hats worn during warm warm weather The panama was re registered at 77 de degrees the straw hat bat at 70 79 9 degrees the soft wool felt at 80 81 d degrees gr es the silk hat at 80 degrees the cloth cap at 94 degrees degree's and the yachting cap at 98 degrees These tests were made partially with partially with a view to re regulate lato the provisions for the tho uni uni- forms torms of at certain classes of police cers Tomorrow THE ECONOMICS OF or F FASHION AsmON V. V V. Styles Styles and Underwear |