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Show jenson's Travels. Mi LTTK NO. XXXIII. 5 T nt a .nd on. . the w'l,ta OnTi.wn...v...ndl. ,h,'""Ub no!b,n Urge; nor .re lf n.ltr Kippen 10ok u" 'n 01 TU"' . cart lo Apia, hr. , JontZ to Thomas Meredith. TT ntrc.nt. Th. HUH -"'C 0 -.n who u.d bo.., it b .In... 'V 'onz l'W'd i Savaie Mind l.o been. a" 'hu , ' - -nk he did t v.ry ihoil inter-01 inter-01 ! , r,.ld. A.SP-m. th. .c'.oone' ",Jtd.Hh ball.,, ."d two Mur-non b, uneU mooring, in the A,.i. . llUsome time... .uceede.l in niching the open ocr,n "h"" . ",. rLllJ high .nd th. brisk trad. ' .threatened to blow U.,oSav..im. ; d o helpm, on, X0"" r" ,U,U. hi the oppo.il. ilir.ct.on. Oh lhtK bles.ed trade wind, in ih. South Sea.l r.vth.t'ts must conform to ;btB. Hence a trip to Tutuil. Irom Apt. .tnetaliy mtim be.iing a.aiiisl wuihtal wind l" !' ol i,n h le Ih. return trip i olten accompli ac-compli hrd in lew hour.. Though tne little ."' iwed to nd Iro upon ihe face ol the ureal water, wh.le , imi her heal I" ol"V . rua''e' .mcl. kn her .'lose , up a.ainst the nd,i..der He.-k.nd 1 stood th. mo lion ii.ll. W. only led the fnhea once or l.ce. "I'd even till, we I.J very quietly. We d.d not wish to t" Jll.nce to well other. Nor d.d we Willi lulose Iho nptllallon lor seamanship .hich.e.r.esu .iniou. to establish n.oie lilly; but our pale lce .nil .unlearnt .unle-arnt ioilr.1 clothing told Ihe .lory 111. tin. miming. We were only horl Ji.uncc Hum Apis when Ihe un went uuan, ..d the darknew closed in on the lonely crall so thick, II..I even Ihe outiinei ol ihe utarest muunlain. ol Upulii could not he discerned. The ciutainollerrd ui place in In. little 4 calm to rtst our heads during ih. ) ' msnl; but Ihe smell Irum below fright- tncJ us Irom Hie lirsl; so we choie to uke our chances on Utik. lllder llerk Mretcbed hitusill on one ide ol th. tnai.) hatclmay, while 1 cr.wled into th. little bust wind, was c.ir.ed on bu.rtl, ind.twasnul a ill the astunish.d c.p tnn munched it in the I'ago l'..go hur it bul ihrre days later th.t th. discovery eas made, that the weicht ol my body & badvery near parted the butloin Irum the . rest ot ihe boat, which hiled with water o last that lllder Heck and mysell . Dts.ly reached 1 utu.la swinini.ng. " Tuesday, September 24. The early raan.tig lound us beat.ug against a very geotl. hreti. oil l-agalua bay, about Queen miles lioin Apia; and there w I remained all day enjoying the ''wcet fleasures ' of . genuiuo pacitic calm, ali.lc exK)sed to the uurnlng ray. ul a l.opaal sun shining thiough a cloud less sky. In vain d.d we wish lor more wind, even if it would blow Irom the wrung point of th. compass; lor with a Lr.tk aind sum. Illllv piogres. call always be made by beating against It; but a calm leaves sailing cralt aosoiute-ly aosoiute-ly helpless and drilling. Mall sick and seeuy through not hating rested th. niitiit Iwlure, e were unable to read, lilt or sing with any sense all that long, weary day. Hi. heat nearly stuetieu ; ui, and drpiivcd us ol nil ambiuon. U.,e -uoud a swin. iu the ocean, but "Inn" tuiu us he had great respect, lor Ihe sharks wlin.li abounded here; he lUitolcd, however, that we could do aae pleased. Ilul aa I still renin.) beretl ery distinctly the peculiar snipe ol Ihe teeth and .hark', jaw which 1 had seen at Nukualofa, Tonga, 1 led no particular desire to expo, my body to the tender mercies ol .ucli anuiher isw in the employ of a real l.v. shs.k, nor did llroiher ileck; .0 we remained on hoard; and I only dipped my leet and head in the water sil.rnately. ' Ilul, man," says the cup-lain, cup-lain, "Don't )ou know that to wet your head thus with salt water will , mike the skin soie and produce sever. 1 headjchel" No, I d.d nut know then, I "' I soon lound out. Tuough th. captain's stones were not all Hue nur cor.sist.nt he senued In tin. Instance u know what he was talking about- I ; have never dipped my head In wit water since. I'oor "Jim," how could t help the calnil Hue the captain was cross and swore and curned in Gemian. toe wind would not blow; and a. "Jim" was l,,s only serv.ni ho was made III. "T"",':'" un "'ch coiumaud. I t"tu..h"1 'P'een. "J,,,," uul nul , Minmng ,0 in. acliouner, nor du h m vew,t,.that rapldny which i. cl.a,. selenitic ol Hie vcnui.ie .,,,1 entr,l..,l . i e nu.lle and experience experi-ence I sail,,,. And that mad. Hi. cap. as bout shm,", J ,u tl.o .sail, wtu' . . ' h':!;:;.''j;' "ih ' f d " .. " " A"J b. f ... ' . " '"niewhat Uu heavv other. m un" ,ld to au. nh ol , . " r.''J, ,uu "".hi a large 1 luaiiig d.v J 1 . " I1 ""' the lot I "i. we .' u iron, the 1 'I ei,l e,,, , U ' 'n dealing I ',l:'1"1 Lipoiaanil I I-''. abou li mi :,i Ul ' at ' '"o'ru!eV:,M,':plt,',b" 'S- A. ,l 1 fun. We brel " ,! , r" "on- u;' the ol'i , Z , ' '.' 'I" -lay ''"dwealilji," "y-'""i "" 'i'e "" Ur . A b, which hart sprung uo tJunnic the Initer part of Ihe night had sped ut tome what onwiril, so thrit the stiil hours of morn iriR totmd us brntinn aj4iniit the trd wind 11 ihort disiunce oiithwanl from Ihe extreme western point of Tutuil. The Hand in rTwunUi-imn, the forma-tton forma-tton volcintr, most of the roast rock bound, and the acrnerv grand and ini-poliiR. ini-poliiR. To watch tne wnvei ipend their lury upon the roctct and ace the Rpray ahoot up hih on the fare of the perpendicular chili which cotntituicd tne roant waa very lntereatinK; and our condition on board waa mide more tolerable by the reirethinic wind, whii h though hlowmfc from a wrong point t the compA-.a to tuit our courae. eiui'led lift to make a little prurt'tti by hrating nKainflt tt. After tacking a number ol limes we succeeded tn rounding a rocky headland ol which stands a needleihapcd rock arising from Ihe bottom of the ocean whicu l called "the lonely lnhernmn" by naviatoriu Thence we steered straight lor the mouth ol the Kigo fago h.trbur in all Snmoa; and nt unc o clock p. m. we anchored Seitrly ofl the village of l'.iga logn, one of the native town, stiu it-d on ihe harbor jmt natned, aftrr commit a ilittance ol seventy five miles irotn Apii;butl am sure iv miles would hardly cover the mileage lor tu who came beating against tiie wind imic i ol the distance. Frciu IajiJitga IJiler Heck and I walked a mile aiound the htu'u of the harbor lo the viluge ol I'ago I'ago, where there is a Lttvr-day .Saint miKsionary station. Here our ar rival ur pined Kldeia 1), l oiter Cluf) and Abnmdi O sen, tu ol our Uialt 1. 1 tiers laboring in Tutuila; lor tht-y had not been apprised of our inteuilcd vitit at Ihis parinul.tr lime. We now open! a p ertant aliernoou with our brethren, partook ol a good mral prepared by the native faints, who alto gav us a hearty welcome, held an mtt.frtting meeting in the evening, at which l.l.kt Keck and I were the speakers, took a reircnixn bain in the harm alter nirxht lull, drank awa with tho vilbgu cIiicIh, amie ol whom were members of the Omrrh, culled history from the record till a late hour, and enjoyed a short night's rest. Friday, September 27. According to arrangements made in council wuh tne native chiefs the evening prrviou, we arose verv early intending lo start lor the 1 and of Manua. l o. lowing a I41U1-ful I41U1-ful native brother who led ui iu Ihe darkness arutiud ihe head ol the haroor we came lo .1 point wlirre one ol the village boats were lying in a shed. I ive native, all mciiihrra ol Ihe Church except one, were called out hv our friend, Kldvr Viali. We Utah tUhrs (lour in mi 111 be r) helped Ihem to launch the boat and g.uher the tackling; and at 7 o'clock a. 111. we silfd from I'ago t'eiico, the nit 1 1 vi s and i-ildcr rowing three miles to the mouth ol the harbor, where sails were set, and the beautiful boat lor such it wan after the sails weio spreadsped quickly over the water out into the open ocean, beating heavily, however.atfainl a pretty strong southeast wind. Ue had an interesting voyage, but I Jders dull and O.scu, who lacked the liuee das training that l-.lder H.r and 1 hid undergone s.illr-ed s.illr-ed conn icier able with scatickuess, tie five natives who treated us to this genuine Samoitt vovajfe were Teo, lale, 1'iaiele, Suega and Tauvaga, the latter being a no 11-mem her, but a relative rela-tive ol Teo. Alter several hours sailing sail-ing we at length reached tt.e one mile wide strait which separates the little i.itand Aunua from the largest island of , Tutuila; and alter mking in the sails, Ihe natives, aansted by Ihe Elders, row ed iu to the north shore ol Aunua, ! passing salcly thiough the breakers, and we landed on the sandy bench in hunt ol the only village un the tsl.tnd, pull ! ing the boat up after us We were kindly received by the head chief whose 1 name nt Lemala. He is one ol the tew members of Ihe Church Icil ol the large branch which was organized here by I.l.lrr Joseph 11. Dean in thsH Nearly all have turned away and resumed their lormer mode of worship. Alter drink lug cocoa-nut milk and partaking ot a ! sample native meal in regular native I style, we visited Manoa, one of the two I Hawaiian Kldera, who first introduced the true Compel in Samoa about thirty. 1 three years ago. I rom him 1 obtained some valuable and interesting data, which will be used in the compilation ol the mission history. Elder Maiiao kepi a journal during his missionary days, a ud could give accurate information about his labors and those of his leilow-laborer leilow-laborer who now re its beneatti the sod of Tutuila. In the evening we held a good meeting in one of Ihe largest houes in the village; about seventy-live of Ihe two hundred people lhat con stitute the population of Ihe vi.lage aud island, attended, and l-.lder Heck and 1 were the speakers. The natives seemed seem-ed to revive in their spirits while we addressed them, aud 11 may be possible pos-sible lor Ihe Klders who labor on Tutuila and who visit Aunua once in a while to recogiiixe the branch here. Alter Al-ter the meeting the usual greeting and awa drinking, tasting only on our part were gone through with, according to Samoan custom; and we enjoyed a good night s rest in the same house where we had held Ihe meeting, being protected :iK.unt the musquiloc-a by the indispensable netting. SaiuiUay, Su,.tcmjer 28th. We arose early, look leave ot our native friendi o Aunua, some of whom made us small presents, laumh?d our boat, boaidcd it, rowed it salely tnruugh ihe on-akers, set sail and headed lor the I'ago 1'atto h ir-bor ir-bor eight miles away at 7 a. in The wiinl wastfoodand brisk, and the sea rolled highi but tiie voyage proved Very interesting. Our little cralt which boie all the canvass it possibly could stand, literally llew along the water, cutting through the waves and sending tUe spray at timca had way up to the top ul the m.ist aud also over crew and passenger. pas-senger. Uul we cared null We were in tiie tropics. II wo did get wet, we would not irecze nur catch cold il we took care to change our clothing before sleeping in them. Il look us juttl one hour by my Auieric.iu watch lo sail from Aunua to tne mouth of the I'ago I'ago harbor. To ban the same distance dis-tance the day bclure required live loii hours and a fraction. Jmt as we reached tiie mouth ol the harbor, we spied our old Iriei.d Captain llrandl. with his w ife and "Inn" and home other passengers, coming out with in schooner oil his return lo Apia. He was tu have led tne evening baiore, and we were to join hi in at l.eoue, 011 the wet end ol the island, but as theweaiher w, s rough tu the evening he had cjiiclud d tu wait till morning. This was provi dentlal lor us, as wc thereby escupea a long tramp 011 foot over the mounuiun ol Tutuiia. Our native Irieiids instead ut taking in sails aud "layiUK to" at once, could nut withstand the temptation ol tryuiK the schoouer in a race in winch thfy beat ai tht-y expected, tlieir crall necessarily being a swifter sailer Ihnn the heavy-built schooner. Alter considerable con-siderable labor and some little danger the two vewli came down together, and we sprang on b jard the schooner at an opportune moment when the wave lilted us to a proper eleva ion; and af ter bidding Klders Clull and UUn and our native Saints and friends otd-byc, we continued our voyage on the schooner Irom the mouth of P.igi I'aifO harhor. In two hours and a half we sailed twe've milet with a good wind an.l over a rough sea lo Leone ifl which town we cast anchor at 1 1 o'clock a. m As the schi oner was to take in a cuo 01 rubra at this place, all Inn s landed and Klder B ck an I mysell put up with Itr'ither James Ma kir, a Kurnpean member o the Chuicit. He and his naiive wi e made us very welcome and tre tted us wiin much hospitality and kindness. We spent the day and evening in pleasant conversation and in taking a walk throuich the village-, which Is the target! in I utuila. It is i-autifully situated situ-ated on a by and looks like a little city, when 1 ne approaches I from the sra side. I he houses scattered a ong the brach and tne line sttepled Catnolic church in ihe centre ol the village, pre-se.ds pre-se.ds a most enhancing picture. The church can be seen a lun ways oil at sea and serves the navigators as a conspicuous con-spicuous mrk. The pi ic reminded me very much of the little city ol Sab v. BitunteU on the coast ol the Cattegut, in old lenm irk, where 1 spent some ol my bovhood das. Contrary lo our expectations we were obliged to -pend two nights at l.eoue, as the natives who were t put the cauu on board the schootirr II itiy refused to work till MotnUy There was a nur-rune nur-rune least noinn on in an adjoining village, to wiih h tiear-y all the o ma people ol Ihe tjwn were invited; and the Sampans aresj very much more lond ol leakliui:, eatmg and thinking than work, lhat our captain and the mctchunti who Were interested in the cargo pleided in vain lor having the scho.uier loaded un the Situid.iy. Sunday, h-plcnibcr, 29 h. As wr un exoecteOly had lo spend a Sunday 111 l.eone, we concluded to hold a meeting. Hut Ilir.'Uuh thi itill.cuce ol the London Lon-don mission priest who resides here, we were unab e to "btain Ihe large n.i live building which might properly be terinc I the toti lull, and in whicu duel's incut together fur council. We were thus obliged to hold our meeting in Ihother M.n kic's native house, where only about twenty people met with us. In the ulterii'.on I a tended Catholic er vices lu the churt h a ready mentioned and alsn in the London mission church, 1 m here Ihe nati v- minister cnde.ivurcd to lutluence his fljik against the Mor J mons,' who were in the village mst ! liien. Ol course he got his inspiration ! from his white chief We spent another pleasant evening at llroiher Mackte's house,!-. Iward Halm, a tierman brother, who alo has a Samoan wile, leing among those present. Hrolhets Mackte aud Halm and one native are the only members ol the Church at Leone; but an attempt will perhaps now be made to open a station here. Monday, September jolh. At p m., E.der lU-ck and I hoarded the schooner, after taking au atleclionate leave ot our tnunds in l.eone, and act sail lor Apia. Helore leaving, brother Mackte made me a present of a line Samoau mat to tike home. We spent t ie night crossing cross-ing the thirty live mile wide strait which sep nates the is andi of t'p. lu anil Tutuil. Tu-tuil. The cantaiu's w ile an J two other natives were the other passengers on board. Tuesday, October 1st Having spent an uncomioriable night rolling to and fro 011 ihe deck ol tne schooner, the morning hour found us sailing ulf Ihe north coast of Upulu, and as the wind soon auerwards died out, or neatly so, it took us all forenoon to get to Apia Uut we got there at las'; and we fell greatly relieved in body and mind when the anchor was dropped in Ihe Apia harbor precisely at 12 o'clock noon. Our trip to Tutuila had consumed eight days, during which we had sailed about aso miles (mcuJng beating distance); and we had been succestul in obtaining historical information, though we nursed some of the L ders Irom Ziun whom wc hail expecteu to see. On our landing at Apia, we learned that Ihe steamer Tavluni, with which 1 should have taten passage to New Zealand, Zea-land, hid come and gone during our absence, and that lor a month lu come no other I'nion Steamship company's vessel would leave f ;r Auckland. Tin was somewhat disappointing to me, but 1 decided to secure a passage on Ihe neat mail steamer Irom Ameiica, whicu was eipecled In a day or two. Alter taking lunch with ouririend, Mr. Helle soe, T.ldcr Heck aud I walked through the bukh, following a winding trail, to 1 again, where we arrived at 3 p. m.. and lound al well at headquarters, Litters Sears, Kippen and Lemon holding fort, 'The latter, however, was there 011 a visit Irom his station on the east end ol Upo n where Ihe brethren are busily engaged in building a new meeting houe. Andrkw Jknson. 1-'agalii. Samoa, October 31 d, 1695. |