Show MIG1TYPEFI4 o All About tho Quoov Sight iintl StiiuitfO People ol tho Capital of OiiuTlitvd of tho World TAe ttalb of lleKnt anJ lit Tliitt Difftrtnt Clltil task at lite MtrMt Tilt lltutt oW Ht Slack fatunit n < Crest Ctrtnimtnt DtfrHiitntl and the Govtrnwnt CJiftl nt Jbtelfn tratmi ant lhy > tit CMitu Despise Rrreisn WaniAll About tit Wan pAWM Chins tod OHiii MMtr Aleut Ht Iillll Slimttll nilkitll ami Mil nit it Iinf CT > on Ht Clott FptHit leer rpaaesei et Its Naves I lCtpinbt4 IT I rant u Carpenter Mi I V fs e < IIC destruc I Qj lion cl the i 1 1 tp Chine la I r Q I army at Im I J yang In Cor i u and the I crlpp Ing of I r their flit at I fIIJff t the mouth of fKj < a the Yahoo I i river Indicates Indica-tes That the JI J a p a n e < c threst that they will march their soldiers Into Peking before winter sky no means an Idle one use Valoo river slit boundary bound-ary between Corel and China and alii li now the Japanese practically control = Jpa the country The territory 1 of North I China Is very poor and the Chinese will I have to bring their implies of food with them If they attempt another Invasion I The Japanese Kill not need a large army ti to keep them out and they can now I center their forces upon China mine U by to means hard to reach The groung between It and the sea U as flit as a floor and If the Japanese can be Imdd I on the e1 coast of the Gull of 1echlll they wilt be within a few day march ol the great Chinese capital The only thing that prevents them from Betting near It by water U the big fort at the mouth of the Yahoo river These are manned with Kiupji and Armstrong guns and LI tang Chang army U j behind them Wherever they land they Mill have to fight what remains ol this army but a victory would mean the capture of toting and the practical tub Jugatlon of China Peking Is perhaps one of the least known cities of Ihe world I have paid two visits to It and spent a month In It sit yean ago During the present spring1 prowled about Its streets for days and devoted myself to making a study of the town and Its people It Is an Immense city II contains about fifteen hundred thousand but these are i UI scattered over an area ol twentyfive square miles and the people as a rule live In onestory houses The city Is surrounded by walls which were built hundreds ol years ato and which I lndor IIn mil f must have cost many nilllons of dot tars I These walls are In good condition condi-tion with the enceptton of one or Iwo places where the floods of hut winter undcimlnded them unit earned pull ol Ilielr lacings away It Is I hard to give an American I an idea ol one ol r these walled cities ol China The walls of Peking are sixty ltd thick at the bottom r i i ee tom they will All the average country try toad or city street and they ate as tall as a luurstury house I They are so wide at the lop that you could run three railroad trams side by side around them and they are so solid that Ihe cars would move more smoothly over these tracks than they do on the trunk tons 1 between New York and Chicago These walls ale faced Inside and out with bricks cich as big as a lour dollar lllhle and the space I between Is tilled with earth and stones so rnmmed down that the ages have made the whole one olid mats They are built In fact much like the great wall ol China and rrel the bricks ol the Iwo are almost c > icily I oll oal the same I have before mo the I brick which I brought Iron the great wall It weighs about twenty pounds or as roltl much as a tau year old baby ofl i Is hlue gray In color and is covered ails patches i of while i lime mortar uit like l thoie that I saw In the broken places of the walls at Peking In approaching I Peking long before you get lu the I city I > ou see the Immense lowers which stand on the lop of Ihis wall over Ihe cites which enter die city Thee towers me as tall as a big New York Hat They rise nine slories above the wall 1 and they have tools of blue tills 1 hey were used In Ihe past as watch towers and they have many portholes regal holes far cannon There arc thirteen gull which lead Into the clly and the lowers and walls near these are plan tired over with proclamation and bills much like a theater bill board Ihe 1 gate of Peking are merely holes I thiough the waits and they are about as wine as the ordinary street and perhaps per-haps twenty eel high They arc lined u nil stone And ate beautifully arched 1 hey ate closed at nigh with great door sheathed wllh iron suit they are paves whit heavy slabs 1 ul siones The walls ol Peking Are titenlyirvcn mllrsloug toil the area which they enclose Is irregular ir-regular shape and it consists ol two j Pig parallelograms The tine nt Ihe north Is Ihs real capital of China forth eC I contains I I the Tartar city the great guy inment departments Ihe foreign lega nuns and the Imperial city In which mirrounded by live or ten thousand uimiclu the tmperor lives The lowers weal lelugfJlll lower-s joins the Tartar clly II I Lea hall 1 a dozen lulu 1os including rite Temple of llruui which oval hurled > stow II nut lung ago mid which Is I now being rebuilt ol Oregon pine The Chliese clly Is where all the mercantile mer-cantile business I oh r this I great capital I is done 1 It a I cut up Into narrow street I and It Is filled with all sons of stores II hn nlorkel of all kind and his lot I maikel tovers seviral acres It has I Us wholesale as well as tie retail fur market and I have gone out t at 6 oclock I in the morning I ant uo d perhsp 1 a cl thousand almond eved merchants drrsstd In gor KtoiM silks I moving about through cleat beds ol furs of aUliKlfc The Uf furs are pllnl l upon the ground and lust ran buy Mlile for about f j n ikln and iulI cc ikius fur frs which will be l worth Iw7ce tint amount anywhere rise In the world You run buy the finest of irmlne anther ant-her fro you can ttt a coat of limbs lr the kind Ilial our ladies I use for long opera clinks This Chinese cily Is a city ol iMiiks and ol stork exchange i II f rn I until one murnng + the silver exchange ex-change It was a loom liken barn and the people were buying and selling LIJ just as they do on Wall street elliiijr and Imallng I I and puihlnxeach III hlrlt other like mad us they 1 did to U Is n city ol hook more and there are some streets hlch eennaln 110 other shops Wo have the Idea that the Chinese melely live upon rice and on nil and that theirchieIndustrtes I I are the making ol nutting fans and of silks The truth Is that China does Swath business and the produces all torts of commoitl lies Nearly every one ol these Chinese street contains shops of all kinds and he milii business of China Is nut the supplying goods for lie foreign markets but the makincol those required for her own people They have ai many want as wo have and they require as good goods The noble dress In the finest ol silk and there ate hundreds of stares which I I sell nothing but pictures the 1Ie3 lb art dliplavcd I In most ol lt time pointings I Is abominable but they are pictures I never heless mid the Chinese pay good money for them I wish I could show you the markets ot Icklng I You can get as good meat here as you rosin New fork and there Is no finer mutton lie world than that of North China The sheep Are ol the at tailed varlet and I saw many which tad I tails weighing I over a pound lilt queer how they kill the animals which hep sell They have no slaughterhouses slaughter-houses undo sheep Isolten I butcher d In front ol Ihe shop and the blood Its on the ground while I yen buy Theie are all 1 fIu ol IIfi J they are always sold alive No Chinaman would buy a dead fish and Incasryou want to buy Iris than a whole I lro at a time the Chinese peddler will pull Ihe full out ol Ihe water lay him squirming on the block and cuts piece ol quivering I flesh Oust of 1 rr side fur you wile yon wait lie does not kill llhe fish and after you are through he throws It back Into a separate nail of water and waits for another customer la take oft the rest One of the chief meats sod Is pork and you see hogs trolling about through the sirecis ol eking They wallow in the puddles right under the shadow ol the emperors palaces 1 and they are the dlrilest hogs In the world here are all sorts of game for sale In the markets and you can get snipe and quail and i squirrels ol all kinds The Chinese ate the best raisers uf poultry In the world They have duck aims and goose arms and they know all about unilUial mien ballon They set great quantities of dried geese and dried ducks and they carry bushel baskets full of dried ducks about Ihe city for sale They sell all kinds of fruit and they are adepts In the raising ol the choicest of Vegetables I They bury their grape vines In I the I north In the winter and you can buy > our nuts by the bushel As to can dogs and rats I dH not see any sold In teeIng tee-ing and I dont believe that the helter classes ore accustomed use them I am told however that such rats as ate sold In the south are raised and fattened especially fur Ihe market and thai their diet is usually rice Dogs flesh Is I supposed sup-posed hy the people lo give heroic properties In those who feed on it and Ihe Mine ellecl Is I produced by bears meat and the ground up bones of wild I liters These I tilings ought I i to bring I n high price just now In Icklng for the people certainly have reason to Incietse their courage Another queer article that you see In the Peking II market Is filie I hair I paused several places where I lungqueued Chinamen stood beside aboard a-board upon which I were hung t long I bunches ol black Chinese locks I Each of these was a false pigtail and It is hl s > Id t that one ol the duet articles of export ex-port from Corea to China is human hair The Chinese braid extra locks I Into their queues and they alien patch out their queues with silk thread I might write a full letter about the queer things shown In the Chinese part of the city of Peking could I lei vou of n vast business done In gold and silver which the Chinese burn at the graves paper to furnish Ihelr dead with money could lo show pay you thtlr shops passage selling to nothing heaven I Cut coffins lii which single articles 01 thii kind cost as high as Tour thousand hlfh dollars and where thin dutiful son often buys his lather a coffin and makes its present to the old man earn before his death I could tell you of stores here thousands of dollars worth of Incense slicks are old every mOlllh and tlr I could Jans take IOU Into elblllhnllIll hlch sell nolhllll hot bird and gold 5 rt01re lull or Ssiie1 Thue are bilC Iore fioh nothing furniture and shops which make nothing where rwoal stovrs soul In I bundle There I ore by weight places r d Jr establishments I where coal dust Is mlied up wllh mud and sold In lump andslnpe ol a bae ball at so me kcls the si 111 = much apiece There are great markets and 1 flowers selling of chickens es n < the foMhe of toy slores an d slores for U sorbs and all try rand clud thidurea ae selling ol I paper 1 and cloth There the g J lock I peddler by hundreds and are hardware establishments and If > ou are oflamealrl a oulInna hard ond III nl or a m1 IAn ur tar very show IOU A tulle WholeC round the where U can get camels meat corner you II ci Thele are phones for gambling and dime shows There ire restaurants museum 01 description and opium joints every numberlloTkere In fact wllhout number There arc cl n stun s ol very sort and description and the best things In China come to Peking The mnst intrrcsllnic part of Icklnir However hi I the ble Tariir city Ills the cxpiinl ol onethird t ir the popula lion on the globe and In It lives the son ol heaven the limperor ol China to whom all his subjecu must bend llielr I knee It contains the thousands ul Manchu officials I the foreign legation the Roveinment departments ansl all the paraphernalia of tills queer Chinese mUll It Is Ihe most interesting city on the face 01 the globe nnd Its sights really beggar description Prom 1 the walls the whole clly looks like an Immense I Im-mense orchard with here and there onestory buildings shining out through Ihe trees In Us center inert Is a walled oil enclosure filled wllh nusivc huld Ings roofed with yellow tile This lathe la-the Impuial Lily In the Innermost pans r t = of whlcn 1 lea brick pen Inclosing several square mlief where the emperor lives I surrounded by eunuchs He Is perhaps h eldlrJ I IIII f r the rarest bird In the whole I Chinese aviarv and I will follow this with a special I I teller describing some ol his antics He Is kept apart Iran Chinese and foreigners and ou might live In i Peking I rl fyn yearn J not sec him el He tea ly knows nothing about his people or his surroundings and he is I a sort ol a puppet who stands still 1 or dances I vlar Ids highest 1 officials or the old ern pre dOIlger pulls at the string No better Idea ol Ihe condition of the government ol China could be gotten man by a trip through lids Tartar city It is one ol the oldest towns In the wolld U was founded mure than a thousand tears bcloro Christ and It hiss been the capital of millions lor ages It ought to be the greatest clly on Ihe lice of the globe but there Is no spot more lilhy and tinny and foul The city know nothing ol modern Improvements Improve-ments UK cut up into wide streets et the toads have no sidewalks I and the rude Chinese earls sink up to Ihelr hubs as they move through the clly There are no walerclosets The streets are the sewers and the most degraded savage ol our western plains fins a gleaner regard fur the exposure of his person than have these pig tailed silk dressed gaudy fat Pekingese The city has absolutely no sanitary Improvements and Ihe sweet tamps are framework bases backed with while paper and they are seldom lighted except during lull moon It Is I absolutely unsafe to move about In the nljihtllme without a lantern II you wish to keep lour r1 clean and you have to balance yourself In Ihe day hat I keep out ol thin mud All of tli a houses ale of one story and Ihe governmint departments more like brokendown barns than the ollncs of a I great tmplre I went one morning to visit the state I department and as I looked at ill 1 i thought ol our great building I ol the Mate War and Navy which I cost you know more than ten million djllars and which I Is the biggest granule building In Je blf the world I The street was a mud puuldle and I hugged low I shackly but digs Ruddle lj rn i ow r tugs till I Anally urn to a gale at which a dilly official was standing He shook his head as I entered butI I pretended not lo see him and pushed my way In r I entered a Ind which looked I for all i the world like a barn yard surrounded by tow wooden stables with heavy tiled low This court was filled with don I kevs horses and dogs and Isalb naked 1 II 11 I d s n f rat tut of Ili e Inn ra c u s rtn s raw e to i these buildings which j were In fact the offices of the department The buildings were filled aide clerks who wrote away at bare tables the light coming in through latticework walls backed with while paper They scow ed III k lnf m1 at me as I looked and one ol them gave me to understand that I had better move on I next vUlted the lam lus Haulm l College It was worse than the stale department and ever thing about It was j liu shabby and going to seed I tiled lo get Into I thin board punishments I where Set I horrible cruelties I which the Chinese government meles out to Us rebels and mlnals are passed upon and where failure I Is ci mmon but I was stopped at 11 lll the dour and was positively 1 lod that 1 could nut go In It was the same with all llden government departments I I They r vl could not have been shabbier had they been knocked up out of odd pieces of old bloats arkand everything was filthy and the picture cf ruin The only really new things In Ihe cily seemedtobetlue I clothes of thin n llse di I laughed I again andagaln at I saw these mandarins bow down in the mud and through the forms ol the Chinese court amid llielr hltliy surroundings They are among themselves us Mr as words go the molt polite ol all nations and Ihey look upon us as boors and barbarians The most ol the people believe that they will conquer the world and I doubt whether a thousand out of the million and a half people In Peking know anythlngof the Japanese victories The court officials distribute all sorts ol lies and they hive probably told the pid that they have whipped j the Japanese on both Und I I and on sea and that the mikado will be brought Peking Pek-ing The majority ol Shun clltiens ol the Chinese capital really believe lust America is subject to China They think that Col Ucnby Is sent to the capital to pay Uncle Sans tribute to their emperor and this I am told Is I their opinion as lu every foreign I legation I They 1 tune nicknamed the street upon which the foreign ministers live the strict Ihe subject radon and they would consider It 1 a disgrace to ask our minister lo dinner and I venture that Col Uenby has never been on Intimate terms wllh a dozen high class Chinese officials This 1 know will seem strange lo Americans but it Is actually the truth Peking Is the most cosmopolitan city We have In America only the Chinese of South China These come from the hot commies at the southern part of the empire and they are small and lean In comparison u Ith thin people the north I T mi Ir t el They dress differently and they have n different dialect and different habits and customs Peking Is I froien up for six months ol thin ear and you can have ice sledging on the 1eilio I nt Christmas I found f the people of every Chinese state different and the dialects ore as various as the languages of Europe Here in Peking I you hnd representatives ol every Chinese state and there are celestials Irom I all the big cities Thibet Mongolli Manchuria and porto of Afghanistan Af-ghanistan are all tributary to China and people of a half a dozen religious jostle I each I other as they wade through I the streets The strongest sights I to meat host entrance were the nomadic Mongolians Mongo-lians who rode Into the city on great camels or dromedaries I which were von ercd w ills I wool ffom six la twelve rl inches long These come Irom Ui6 cold regl ons of Mongolia I or Siberia I and during my visit 1 to the Chinese wall I passed cinvan of these camels mar llng in single file and fastened tOKMher I by olf rchIJr sticks thrust through the I hick flesh of their noses They were loaded wills tient bundles ol furs which they had brought down from the north for the diletianle mandarins ol Peking and were carrying back brick tea amt coal lo the Tartars and Russians Many ol these I were ridden by Mongolwomen dp 1Io who incats 1 I pantaloons and fur caps rode astride nnd In olher cases by men who were clad In sheepskins wllh lur caps pulled well down over thi Ir I fierce Tartar eyes I saw hundreds ol 1 bib etan llamas In their Kcrgeous noun and I met many Mohammedans Irom the west part ol China I wish you could see one of the Pekingese Pe-kingese streets and the queer slghts upon It They ate filled with a stream of yellow humanity ol all classes ages n3 sbu IIYa officials fOil f anil sexes You pals gorgeous officials on Mongolian ponies thin backs ot some ol which are decorated with arrows and you know they are on their wav lathe shouting matches outside ol eking I You go by silk I u rd mandarins In scow earls who at yoat as you pee + Into the htrle glass alndows in the II ad of their vehicles You see scholars will spectacles AI big as trade dollar and everywhere you go you are assaulted by beggars I remember one boy who followed me dayaller day The weather I was bitterly t cold and I shivered I in my fur Ulster I This boy was Hacked In thu waist and his arms had been t oh at shoulders He held a pan In his mouth and followed me switching his body this way and that to show me his mutilation I was glad lo glvi him I two or three cents ta be reed ol the sight I Another beggar who has long been In Peking M a man who fin an Iron skewer thrust through hit check This skewer Is a loot lour and Is about as big around 1 ai jour little linger 11 He twists It this way and that and keeps the lisp ragged and sore He l beats on n gong as he goes Iliroujll Ihe streets and vou are glad I lo pay him to keep 01 hle rrl out of jour way There Is one gate I In Peking which Is always crowded with I beggars and one ol lite finest bridles I ol the city a structure ol marble tau been given up entirely lo beggars It Is lull ol F the lame the halt I and the hInd hI-nd men with festering sores women without een and persons possessing sll sorts ol homble diseases crowd together upon It They push Ihelr way irons It C1r Jullllr rJ J Into the city and threaten lo cut themselves them-selves you dont give them alms bide by side with these beggars walk Ihe gorgeous officials and poveity and wealth march together In pslrs 1 There II l no place In Ihe world where the contrails con-trails are so great and for nine tenths of Ihe people It would seem to me their condition could not be worse Time Chinese areas industrious as any racoon raco-on Ihe globe They are peaceable and easily governed and II the celestial officials offi-cials Including the emperor and all his court could be wiped from the lure ol the earth Ihe people would quickly grow rich and China would I be one of f Ihe most favored spots on the lace of the globe CF I i s C M s v |