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Show TI1E MORNING EXAMINER, OGDEN, UTAH, SUNDAY MORNING, OCTOHKR 23, 1901. j khan cloth, with its long, silky hnfrs. almost under the bead of fur and la pvi.illy emert for evening and day raps of ail elaborate i haracter. Very smart is u lung, loose coat cf white astrakhan cloth lined throughout with sort white satin and trimmed in a novel fashion with wide strappings of white kid stitched in fine tinea. These strappings of white kid form a yoke tiaped trimming on the shoulders and also croM ths coat at Intervals In trout, where they fasten with dome and shaped buttons of mother-of-pea- rl silver. The sleeves are very full and strapped with kid at the wrist, while the roll collar may be turned up or down, as preferred. A really beautiful hat designed to be worn with this coat Is of soft white felt made in a large shape, with a high crown and wide brim. The underbrim is of long hatred beaver and Is lifted off the hair by a knot of orange mirror velvet. Draped around the crown are knots of the velvet veiled with white tulle and caught on the side with a buckle of steel, which holda In place a bow of soft white satin ribbon with king, floating ends. On the other side le a paradise bird with sweeping plumage shading from deepest orange to palest cream color. The cause of the humanitarian seems hopeless, for these birds of paradise bedeck the chapeau of the most tender hearted of the fair sex, and If confronted with their crime they would aay: "Well, blame the milliner. She tempted me, and I did buy. To speak of pelts again, the dolman has crept Into favor In fur garments, and a smart little cape Jacket to be seen at a celebrated furrier's here Is of broadtail. The back fits closely to the figure and terminates In a basque cut at the walat by a high belt of braided green suede. The fronts of the garment are rounded, bolero fashion, and open over a bright green semivest of velvet embroidered in gold. The yoke of green suede is braided, while the caiwlike sleeves ars cut in becoming godets and foil very much to the back and away from the arms. All sorts of embroidered velvets are used on the fur coats, but in my estimation they would be better In their own sphere, for, like all out of place people and things, they ars awkward and conspicuous. Quite in the line of smartness and good taste is a sack coat of gray squirrel of a lovely quality and ooloring. This coat Is trimmed with ermine, tlie round collar being made of pure white fur and bordered with a band of gray squirrel about an lnlvwlde. The large sleeves are cut In graceful shape and turned back with cuffs of ermine. The coat is lined throughout with a beautiful gray brocade. Anything smarter or more chic than the new modes In fur would be difficult to find, and the only objection Is ths tremendous price asked for even a tiny little cravat or stole. CATHERINE TALBOT, tightly draped, pointed description so dear to the heart of 1st Mode. The Xew Belts. The new fur things are reully charmHand painted belie in different coling, and theae garments will soon be welcome adjuncts of drees, for oven ored leathers will represent a very Imnow the evenings are getting chilly, and portant Item among the autumn a more Important reason for consider- schemes. A very pretty example in with a leather buckle to ing them Is that early In the season ons deep cream was painted in ths palest has a wide selection, which later is apt correspond to be restricted. There Is a riot of greens, mauves and pinks In a design pells often used on the same garment, of Louis XV. bows and trails of flowers. Slid added to these are strappings of A brown leather belt with a dull gold leather, though the latter material Is buckle was adorned with embroidered employed when only a single fur Is used sprays of mauve lilac, the leaves and In the mukeup. In "Sesame and Lilies" atoms being band painted. ltuskln says, Kvery man who honestly Waists la Evidence Kewgdays. exerts himself may still provide himWe ere proud of our waists and do self and hla family with good shoes, good gloves and stout leather bindings not hide them as we have been doing. for his books," and If he lived In these The pouched effects have given place days he might have added, a leather to ths pointed bodices heading plainer trimmed fur coat for hla wife." Astra skirts. groundwork for many elaborate home A gown of rose cashmere Is extremely smart inode with line box pi.iim around the hips and a scalloped trill, n.ln in pluin and fancy braid at the bare of the skirt. The bodice Is cut bolero fashion (it front, with one of the new braid belts, to which is affixed a rounded off basque adorned with scallops of braid. The lung rovers are decorated with a curious painted pattern rhenilled over. It looks like stamped velvet. A crossed velvet waist-coIs a feuture of this gown. Tha celnture la of velvet finished with a large bow behind. Garnet and gold buttons lend their decorative aid to the creation with most decided chic. Perfectly stunning was a rich crimson cloth ornamented with bands of caracal which threw Into relief the rosettes of crimson velvet with which It was trimmed. The bodies was of the dresses. Opening of the Paris Fashion Season foiiM ot goes the rounded bust. Rome The queen of Oct are wondering if there are Paris, is taking on its animation and gsyety. enough perfect or at leasi pretty and motor cars figures to make this fashion popular. mon-daln- I-- PARIS. es whirl by In rapid succession, conveyIn the Ruo ing elegantes todethela shops and everyPal, the Rlvoll and Rus that gay where there la evidence own and capital has come Into Its "on."again One is that the season Is about the glad to be at home once more; and are overjoyed shopkeepers and waiters to see familiar faces and to feel that life for them has begun again. The couturieres are ready for the grande putting r entree and areto certainly please ray lady. forth every effort A cynical male critic has said, "if the proper study of mankind Is man. the proper study of womankind Is dress," and by dress I suppose he means vanity, which is the masculine Interpretation of this feminine besetting sin. But the question Is still an open one as to whether dress is vanity or an eternal sense of the fitness of things that is part of the Inheritance of every woman.of And if she did not have this faculty making herself attractive what a hue and cry there would be In another direction, for tr beauty la only skin deep actual, neglectful ugliness, which a little study of the laws of dress will overcome in most cases, strikes into the artist is front forming a charming bolero cut question whether the GalMe anent colup under the arms, showing a vest of greater in line or color, and, to be seen it of deal Is a satthere or, black a with suede, great high pale gtay in ceiMure fastened with gold buttons. The vest aliened In s point ami displayed s chemisette and collar worn with a tiny black cravat. The sleeves were turned buck with a direiloiie cuff in gray suede, finished with s frill of lace. Tbs skirt was fashioned In three in the new modes brown, purple, crimson, plum and tomato red but It is the "forme" that is most interesting in all recent sartorial development. Most of these afternoon frocks at Worth's were made with pointed bodices gathered tightly down the trout and fash- - bone, Kvery woman Is expected to do her sartorial duty, and the dally queation that confronts her Is how she is to come up to requirements and meet the Increasing rates and taxes and prohibitive prices of clothes wllhout having to resort to the expedient of breaking the benk at Monte Carla Let mt aay that ane round of the smart dressmaking establishments has reduced me to this low moral tone. They simply bubbls over with perfectly exquisite things that one could be such a dream In and can't Just on account of a trifling "thousand or so." I visited the world famed house of Worth, where some of the moat beautiful toilets ever crested paae end repeat over the polished boards of bis handsome, sparsely furnished rooms In the Rue de la Palx, and found that this master has smiled upon coat for walking and tha thres-quartoutdoor wear. Thera Is lnflnll variety In a coat cut on these lines, which may have a Ruaalan blouse effect In front, with tha long basque, or a stunning vest of leather or embroidered cloth. Of course the coat of severe three-quartgenre buttons tightly to tha waist and has a plain little inset cellar of velvet and leg of mutton sleeves. Fur visiting and afternoon donning there le the Louis Jacket, which la as frivolous a little creation as one can wish, and the dlrectoire cost, despite Its stem end rigid cut, la helped out with smart ruffles and Jabots of lacs. Short boleros are In tha minority and are only made for those to whom the long basque Is debarred by reason of well, shall J aay "physical limitations?" The dainty figure Is the desire of fashion's heart Just now, which point of beauty Is emphasised by the new This close fitting coala and bodices. style really demands a straight back, curving wen In at tha waist, and tha waist Itself must be of the right length and width. With these requirements J er er too many American homes the of everyday meals is a INserving slipshod and unattractiva opera- . tion. The function of mere feeding to sustain the physical part of the body is faithfully attended to, but there is no thought taken of anything about the service that might appeal to the aesthetic appetite, and often there Is an all round and culpable neglect of even cleanliness, not to apeak of daintiness. And this neglect of dainty service is frequently found In homes where it baa little excuse for being, homes In which culture and refinement art supposed to find an abiding place. Nor has the amount expended upon the running expenses of an establishment anything to do with this shortcoming. Some housewives bewail their poverty; blame It for their slovenliness and show a pitiable fear of Incurring expenses by attention to prettiness of ta-b- ls dstalL At the same time they mourn because they like an attractive board, and yet think an ugly one a self mortification of praiseworthy description. Others honestly admit their Inability to produce artlstle effects in the way of table decoration. Most of us. however, wlU disagree with these mourn era, certainly with those chatelaines among us who look upon dalnll- -. nass as a twin sister to the cleanliness which has been likened unto godliness. Riches may bring highly trained servants, who may or may not do their duty, and It may command appointments of the latest style. But so for mere wealth goes and ne further, and It Is Just where money stops that taste steps In and saves the day. Every housewife ought to know or learn that It la In daintiness respecting small things that the real smartness of a table Is shown a cloth of spotless whiteness, bright and shining silver and glass as clear as crystal. In the varied xperlences of most persona there hlnes forth a table whose floral were dreams of beauty and re menu most attractive, but the hinge that should have been hot at tale were lukewarm, the plates linger 'narked and the really handsome silver dull The reverse picture le not difficult to bring to mind a table whose menu, though severely plain, waa served In the daintiest fashion, whose silver was bright, whose plates were hot and with a side table, upon which were extra dishes, etc, all ready for emergen- My answer to this would be, "Tea." Art la resourceful, and, besides, figure training la rampant In the "culture" world. Thanks to athletics gone at in an Intelligent way, lately there are more well set up women than there were a few yean ago. But to come back to M. Worth and hla gowns. There was a atunnlng model In purple cloth with a three-quartcoat cut away at the waist over a front of lace and lawn and flnialied with two long tails. The coat waa elaborately frogged with a tube braid of the same color. This coat boasted a soft green satin aash with long tusseled ends. The wide, bell shaped sleeves were slashed up over underaleevea of lacs and lawn, and tha skirt waa moderately full and perfectly plain. Another very graceful gown of black chiffon cloth waa made with a basque only at the back of the coat, the er PAKISTAN flounces ending on each side of a narrow front panel, bolh flounces and panel being elaborately stitched at the edges. This great urtist la happiest when designing afternoon and evening gowns, for In these charming confections there is Ihe greatest scope for symphonies of color. It la always a THE REALM toned with a lare or lawn yoke or veal. There is every Indication that the pointed bodices will he adopted by smart women. With a full skirt they are very effective when made of soft cashmere, that Inimitable, old fashioned material which has never been Improved upon uiid will form the A dinner table arranged for a home meal or a quiet function for a few guests Is laid In the following manner, and the suggestions may prove of In- terest to the mistress of the home whose opportunities for keeping pace with the times have been few: After placing the silence end linen cloth on the . table arrange four candlesticks with pretty shades at the corners of the table, leaving space for the floral decorations, which may be a vase or mound of some seasonable blossoms. Place four or six silver bonbon dishes between them, with their accompanying ornamental spoons. Two large forks and a flail fork should be laid on the left hand side of each place, on the right two large knives snd a fish knife, and on the outside of the knives a spoon for soup. And just here let me say thut tablespoons are no longer put on the dinner table, the necessary sjhmhis being placed on the dishes by the servant before handing them. For a dinner of several courses these small silver appointments will not be enough, but after the first two or three courses the servant will supply the necessary with baby ribbon and placed In front of each guest. Saltcellars are set between every two guests, and if mustard or cayenne pepper Is required they are handed by the servant. It will be found very helpful when one maid Is serving dinner to arrange the various dishes, when possible, so they may be daintily sent to the table In small portions fur each guest. It Is hardly necessary to add that soup, fish and the Joint are served from e side table. . But, to come back to the everyday family serving of meals, many an otherwise appetising dish Is rendered distasteful by the neglect of pretty garnishing. So much that makes for daintiness and attractiveness may be done with a liberal garnishing of water cress. The appearance of ateak Is Improved by a few sprays of this little green water plant, and fried oyaterd, which now are so acceptable, will be a bonne mouche Indeed when laid In a bed of cress and decorated with sliced lemon. Cutlets do smile forth from a bed of parsley and a few slices of cut lemon or a center of bright tomatoes with tiny parsley lints on. A few cubes of Jelly, a slice or two of hard boiled egg and some sprigs of parsley make quite a personage of a dish of cold meat, and a little lea over pudding may be brought to table rejuvenated If the whites of an egg or two are beaten up and placed over It. Chopped meat, with the addition of breadcrumbs, cooked In Individual ramekins conies forth In a most attractive form. In dishing up It Is a small matter often overlooked to place the food In the center of the dish, and cannot common sense and carefulness avoid splashing gravy over the aides or remember to wipe the bottom of a dish? A sight that Irritates while it may amuse is to have sent to table a tiny piece of meat surrounded by a perfect Niagara of gravy. Every one will treat the contretemps as a Joke except the hostess. It may be a little trouble for the housekeeper to go Into the dining room a short time before a meal and overlook the table, but In this way a dainty appearance Is Insured. Perhaps some one will say, "Oh, but everybody Is careful about these things. But look around, and you will see that there Is lots of avoidable which could be overcome with a little care, and the smart and dainty table would be the result, and the health, xikkirs. knives and forks. This very happiness and well being of the whole sensible arrangement avoids over- family would be promoted. ELINOR HEWITT. crowding of the tahle. Gin sees are placed on the right of tho knives, and their number depends upon whether or Homemade Toilet Vlaesrar. not wine is served, hut with the present When traveling or when on a sea fashion of using chumpagne throughvoyage the washing water often has a out the dinner the number of glasses very disagreeable smell. To remove this has decreased. When mineral water is a little toilet vinegar should be put In. served It should be offered in a turn- - A cheap and easy way of making this birr. Is as follows: Take a quart of brown The large square napkin la placed vinegar and Into It place half a pound in front of the cover, with of fresh lavender. Let this soak for two the roll Inside, or if bread straws are weeks, then strain through a muslin v used they are tied Into llttlo bundles bag. slop-plne- ss , OF WOMANKIND. If when making pastry you find you flesh is of a clear, bright have more paste than you require It bled with white fat and may be kept good and sweet for a few days by covering well with flour and putting In a cool, dark place. Clsrify grease and drippings by putting them in a basin and pouring boiling water over them. Let stand until cold. Scrape the Impurities off tlie lower part and if wanted for pastry repeat the process. FOB COOL WEATHEK. fer advice without an apology to the model mistress of the twentieth century home, and the proper arranging of a dinner table Is one of them. It may seem euarflunus to refer to the necessity of placing the cloth smoothly on tile table ami exactly In the middle and that this cloth must be scrupulously Ironed free from c reuses and Just the right sixe, for If It trulls on the ground or barely covers the table its cleanliness Is at a discount. In laying a table knives, glnss and details of appointment that It shows fera the best opportunity for their equi- silver must be put at even distances from euch other, for how untidy end Itself most. To secure the daintiness table distribution. There are some household subjects squalid everything looks If not placed beloved of our souls order and method are necessary; If ufter breakfost salt, upon which one cannot venture to of at properly proportioned distances! pepper and other condiments are freshened up and arranged on a tray ready for tho next meal, time and the appearance of things are saved. Much may be done In the way of an attractive table ensemble If pretty dollies are placed under cake and bread iraya and linger bowls and the butter formed Into neat little rolla instead of being placed In a hopelessly bumpy faahlon on a nondescript dish. Tha also of tho Ubis makes a great difference In Its appearance end comfort. Why doom two pour mortals to gaxe at each other from opistslte ends of a long table when a little time and trouble will remove superfluous table leaves end change forms lily Into cosicies. ness? Ths round table is the hleul If daintiness is all satisfying it la In shape and when guests are present of- IN COSTUMES Imnu-dfotel- THE FIRST COURSE. gathered in a perfectly dry state, free from w or rain ami. If possible, from red, well mardust, and when Intended to be prewell "blanketserved without sugar there should not ed" with firm, white fat. The flesh be an hour's delay In putting them iuta should be firm and yet easily pressed the jars or bottles. with the tips of the flngerr. The porches of a country house are To keep rosewood furniture In good now quite as Important as the living order It should be rubbed gently every rooms. They are built wider in order a soft with clean, day cloth, and this to give 'plenty of eimce for furnishing. will be siifflclent. rrepaniifon of wax. Rag carpet ruga make a oil, etc., cannot be applied without Incovering there us well os for the whole house. juring Its sppearanee. d-- marie up Into rather attractive petticoats tills season and la perhaps the beet of the serviceable henvy weight wash petticoat fabrics after the crash linen. Plain n.annlsh linen collars with ties have come in again for Imth light and dork shirt waists and even fur silk Mouse. They have In returned reduced a Pout one-ha- lf height and .ire more mjlisli and less four-in-ha- diingpcnu- -. Trawling mats are all loose, ulthough often held by a strap at the walat line. Ready made, in full length, they come in gloria, taffeta, pongee, cravenette, mohair and lightweight mixed homespuns. All of them ere shower proof. Choose apples that weigh heavily. Three are the best, end there is less waste In forge ones than In small Dainty Gown For$ the Maid of Honor is a dainty gown rr i. , of honor to wear at t wedding. It is of white iruum., . line de sole over a drop" of pale green ailk. The skirt is u: u. j down a number of rows at the Hi twice down its entire lciigi:ia HERE Above each band of cording and at tha bottom of the skirt are entre deux of lace. The celnture is of alluded greeu panne. The toque la of ths mousseline corded with silver thread and adorned with t bunch of shaded green oatrlrh tips. Little Dug Mags. "Do you know that the color of muff once betokened the rank of the wearer ?" said a furrier the other day as he stroked a beautiful sealskin muff. "When the muff first came to us from France, In the days of Charles IX., no lady could have worn this fur, for black was decreed by the king to be the of the common tieople, and the court followers were restricted to the colors; Muffs have gone through more sales' than it would seem possible to invent for such a simple article of convenience. They have been long and narrow uinl, again, large and round. One of the most curious styles was that of Louis XIV, called the chlena maurhnns' they were mude to convey liitls dogs In. "The muff when first Introduced was the exclusive property of the nobility. These muffs were very amull uinl consisted of a single piece of velvet, brocade or silk lined with fur and the openings fastened with rich Jewels. Such arrangements came in during iL early part of the seventeenth ccniury. "We now associate the muff only with cold weather, but in the old days it was a regular part of woman's mid was carried at all times. s Ways to Cook Oysters Meuxy Drain two quarts and save the liquur. Rinse the oysters In cold water and add to the liquor a few blades of mace, two stalks of celery chupiied flue, a teaspoonful of black pepfier, a dash of cayenne and salt. Simmer five mln4 utes, then add a quarter of a pound of butter nibbed smooth with two tuble4 spoonfuls of flour and three pints rich cream. Let this come to a scald, stirring all the time; then put In the oysters, which must Just scald. Pour-Inta hot tureen and serve at once. Fried Oysters. Select fine large oysters, drain and pat them dry on a soft white cloth. For one quart of oysters mix three well beaten eggs with an equal quantity of cream. Season with salt and pepper and dip each oyster id the mixture. After removing the ore-to- rs roll them In fine breadcrumbs Lay them aside In a cool place for a half hour, then fry In olive oil at the boiling point Fry a rich brown, drain thoroughly on paper and serve with a garnishing of parsley and sliced lemon. When the oysters Oyster Rabbit. have been drained pour cold water over them. Into a frying pan put two of butter and when melted ndd half a pound of grated cheese, a pinch of salt and a little cayenne When the cheese begins to melt add tlu oyster liquor and two slightly beater eggs When this mixture thickens adl the oysters that have been scalded li their own liquor. Oyster Cocktail. Chill the require number of deep glasses and Into end put five small oysters For a dnxet glasses allow seven teaspoonfuls earl of horseradish, tomato catchup and vinegar, ten teaspoonfuls of lemon Juiri and a pinch of red pepper. Mix thoroughly and put an equal quantity In each glass OYSTER BOUP. table-spoonf- That Tired Feeling. If you ere overtired too tired to sleep," as we sometimes say bathe tbs neck and temples with hot water. Bathe the back of the neck particularly. This seems to relax the muscles and the veins that supply the brain with blood. Lie down to sleep with peace, for it will come surely. The same treatment will wonderfully refresh during the day. A headache may often be relieved, even cured, b hot applications to the back of the neck. To Rtnp Bleeding. In the cane of a severe cut from a knife or raxor try the immediate use of finely powdered rice or flour to tlie wound. This has been proved a great success in almost stopping the flow of blood from a severe cut. a cloth wrung out of hot water, leave swagger, especially combined with for a few minutes and then turn out. w hite lace for yoke and sleeve puff and The cake will come out without any trouble. New and really comfortable tea gowns are lovely In white pongee, which hangs beautifully and can afford unusual fullness without an appearance Stale bread if broken Into rough of bulk. The gown Is unlined to Insure piece, dipped in sweclened milk and its gracefulness and has three deep hiked on a buttered tin till dry nnd folds at the foot to save the necessitv crisp is delicious to eat with butter and of weighting It. cheese. For young or middle aged married o Persian embroidery and black velvet applique. They are made full and always over black linings. The golf caps for boys have a narrow strap which passes over the crown from side to side. This Is a new fod, purely ornamental, hut might be made to serve a useful turn for attaching the cup the belt while at play. There Is no appetiser finer than dean tablecloth. The poorest worn , |