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Show MiiwMafLi M NDAV stand or.PKN. s;i): SINDW, KM IDT. r aarfirtrNu iUbi lifr "r-- . l);ir. I! 'i . rhr sun. for that matter, for its sl version ts donned fur any aart n. '.i?jiiN of an informal affair to the very ! i M'i lr Ht : jih! thliigs in which a year ago only high Ai-- i or ii !.iM(M!ii no kn) uresKes were worn. i :ii.i nu'Mi'eiy wish ctu.u1 VVhhe holds first place, of course, i y w n son of erne between the and pink j! .in -1 loir.ii)'. :l..i in :.ic and iniil- pink and an equally pale orange I (ai'ly i.niail ic .in i. .uni, wi.l tie- in very good. The old babyish" ;hi oi.tunin. for Ihcy. combination y;ca; of rink and blue has hat1' si!ii c.ik ornaments of hack into favor, and in the light nn pic arc ihlffnny Muffs which make nine out of of NM'iii'iiin. ani so. of course, ten gowns lose the sharp contrast, may tie gen;.i'y ,iin. on wraps mr fading Into earh other In a way that si.us in hli., V shit- - or light rotors suggests sunset clouds failing into these Je! buttons will he decidedly atw hue. tractive. ami a- - thej ate made in all etacan Ur used on waists and skirts I Parisian Blooae. as well The blouse seen lu the Illustration hcaiy outdoor coats. of pale blue chiffon cloth. The square N The bows oi, pumps, instead of being bib effect ie of bluo ottoman silk, em tune wide, as liming the past season, have gone - the othci rxtieme and are very small. On some of the newest pumps there is a tiny bow ef leather. The tiase for I laid Is literally being run into the ground almost, for tha very newest thing In overgaitera is of brilliant plaid in the very gayest combine I ion of red, blurs, givens and yellow. A pretty house (hue with a Lout XV. heel has a vamp and high tongue of patent leather, the rest of the shoe being in dull kid. Three narrow si raps of the kid. each ornamented with a tiny buckle, extend ever the patent leather tongue. ft It Neatness Is one of the most attractive of feminine qualities. It I also one of the i arret. Early and persistent Inmust the training which cacries the gul Into womanhood with her "bump of neuineaa'' well developed, t'aleaa Inherently fastidious during school day a alio Is liable to drift into rureleae habits which she never autgiow. One girl seen often la that of white fox. which may have a trick of leaving ahoea about is highly becoming to youthful faces. her mom. As a mere lot she was perPerhaps the fall of ermine from favor mitted to do till, and as she grew oldsince last year is due to the fuel that er the untidy cuslum was never tor the simple reason that ehe make believe ermines tiny Imitations herself did nut notice anything unof the real animals figured so extensively In the wardrobes of those who usual about It, and probably nobody ate nut half as rich aa they like to else look the trouble to correct her. Another slovenly habit la leaving a look. bunch of combings In her comb or on ft It her dressing tahls. Const unt vigilance A w hite year In Jewelry la prophesied on a woman's part is necessary in broidered m pastel green allk and silby Kunqican authorities on fashions. I her a small trails unless she would be ver 1eaiis are to hold tits first place, folgalloons. Tho buttons ara of carved of Judged her unworthy birthright lowed by mounst lines, while coral and ellrer with en wnderglaae of pals Mn daintiness. white sapphire. All the glittering ft ft atones diamonds, rubles, emeralds Tan Cloves Fee Street Wear, Few Indeed are the fashionable bod-leare regarded aa loo univetful. too obla no probability that glavra Thrre that have sleeves that cover the trusive for lhe cold harmonics that expenditure will be lean Tan glovaa arm to the conand In aorta all wrist, of vail costumes. the winter pie are replacing blark for tho atroet for Much attention is devoted to the ar- trivances hare been Introduced to segeneral wear, and thera la no doubt tistic forms of Jeweled ornaments. cure comfort with suchshhi wist tons. dealers believe the demand for Knitted gauntlets or silk or fine wool that etrart These take the form to a large extent long glovee la to contlnua avaa of flowers on steins. Ulussoma of come for wear under tlie lung wrlaled If sleeves should bo lengthened. Ta that mousquelaire fur gloves with of leaves represent provide for this contingency the newer Instance, pearls, green enamel, will be popular aa hair surh large figure In the tlrme that gloves have V shaped gores inserted make up tha account of Mile. Modish. ornament a. In the outer seam from Just above tbe In spile of the euperstltlon regarding ft ft wriat, allowing fullness sufficient for them, owla are much worn, and ball It Is a wise woman who knowa her the glove to slip easily over the oast costumes are adorned with turquolsea own lines and never sleeve. and rural, Sliver la much used as a those that 'have proved dlwrgea from A becoming. erases Fash tenable. selling for lieurls. certain ronversallsm In dies marks A new pet has been found for sawomen who are reckoned among tha ft ft llaards and h armies In Paiia huge locks are now being elm l. Hturillug things are left to tha tiety. Vnakaa, reptiles ef a II aorta have had their day, worn on gold or Jeweled chains, the ort of people who Ilka the "band wagTlie latest le the "demoiselle crane, chuln iiassed twice around the neck, on" styles, but a note of emphasis la numbers of which are being auld. and the lockrt hanging down rather skillfully omplnyed, nevertheless, to Tha cranes era about two feet high give distinction to tlie toilet, as the low In iieniiant form. lavender colored, with black throats. The latest revival of all, however. Is artist's high light gives Ilfs to his picThey have charming bright red ryw tlie cameo, and so popular lias this old ture. Contrasts, delicately employed and and are very tame. They stalk about fashioned ornament bornme with Panever overdone, ora tho mark that1 tlie garden, .their lung bills ferrelini risian that half tlie cuiiiially shops of soman who knows out tha worms among tha grass ant dlstlngulRh laiis hare been ransacked In bringing from the one the leaves. who attempts. to light nicmenloo of the first emft ft pire. a ierid when the rumen wua parVelvet In delicate tint Mora decollete gowns are worn by and waved silk ribbon ticularly fashionable. form i t'fimeo lopped toilet accessories, um- bridesmaids Hum we're seen fur many lovely decoration on a foliage narrow whip brella handles, stamp and ling boxes season. This Is Ihs day of deeelieta Ilk braid, w lib a wavy edge. . i ! i i.ij.J !. '1 -i aie a 4Ttxr i v title slm-pie- : ) .1- -- oc.-i-- - aban-done- tha new modes thrre 1 a mixture of historical period a,great and almoat every historic dame Mother Hubbard la repre-ente- d In the revived ruatuniea. Poor old lady! Her doom wan eealed when tha Japanese kimono captivated the hearta of tickle femininity. We are certainly very catholic In our sartorial tastes nowadays, and It really seems that the only thin La Mode Insists upan la tha absolute fitness of a costume for the time and place where It Is to be worn. Morning gowns are of course very almple, and with them go tha small tailored hat, pique gloves and stout walking boots. As for afternoon frocks, they are divided Into two classes, those for formal and those for Informal occasions. The formal costume may be of velvet or any of the new, light fabrics, elaborately trimmed with lace, fur or velvet and buttons that are often artistic gems In their way. The Informal dresa Is usually a semltallnred affair of chiffon broadcloth. The matinee costume of reseda green broadcloth to be seen among the Illustrations may be taken as a charm-,.iln- g jpodel for an afternoon toilet. The panel of crochet lace reaching from IN it al it ict ex-ce- iit 4 Dec. 15. The French peculiarly graceful and custom of making calla upon all their relatives and family connections during tha month of January, beginning with New Tear's day, when the grandparents and older member of tbe family are honored. Should thera be a misunderstanding or feud these auspicious occasions are selected by the peacemakers aa a fitting time to pour oil on the troubled waters. Apropos of general calling, When paying an afternoon call never stay more than a quarter of an hour," n Parisian grande dams once Impressed upon a youthful In unversed the daughter-in-laBut what If I usages of society. should become Interested? Inquired tha bride. Must I leave Just the Interested!" observed her Miner mentor, with a sniff. I never heard of anybody being Interested In an afternoon call.1 It aeems to me this la the philosophy of calling in n nutshell and tha explanation why all formal calla are ao deadly both ta caller and to those called upon. If people were really Interested In each other or said anything that was Interesting about themselves, they would stay not only all the M U a w rh. k. m ii i afternoon, but to dinner and Into the small hours of the morning. In this ram tha last estate would be even worm than tha Arab As it la tills only happens when they are playing bridge. ft ft Certainly one of the greatest trial connected with aoclal life la the number of platitudes to which one la obliged to. listen. Indeed, the longer one lives the more weary one become of what might be termed obvious conI don't think any other versation. form of talk la so fatiguing or reduces one to such a state of mental pulp. Vet the generality of people one meets em Incapable ef giving utterance to anything save tha obvious. Not they are Incapable of better things, but they drift along with the conversational stream. It is really astonishing, when one comes to think of It, how many words can be exchanged without anything having been old. Nothing la rarer In n drawing than to hear a discussion on a subject that really matters. A certain mount of chatter there always Is bout the weather, an exchange of remarks on the latest play and a few horrified exclamations about the last randal. Them make up the sum total Df smart talk. Some one ban aptly luggested that If anything is to be done o remedy this conversational stagnation it will coma through encouraging "omen In the art of argument Now, moet women when they begin to argue be-lau- se Mk rm i. Ml V - slai 405 IN . SL ee among others Mrs. Patrick Campbell and Mine. Surah Iternhardt. ft It Next to tlie sleeves llie length, width and style of the skirt are all Important in denoting Just when a gown was made up. All skirts this season are decidedly larger than those that were made up even during the autumn, house gowns and bail dresses having full, graceful trains, reception costumes being really long, while the street suit Just cleam the ground all about. There Is less material about lhe waist and hips than was the case last whiter, but the skirt must glare widely about the feet, for a tight "slink)'" skirt Is ugly, and far from graceful. unbecoming PIliited skirts gre still juipulur. hut there are many plain models that ere moat attractive. Kur any elaborate afternoon or evening gown the skirt receives Its full aha re of adornment, ft It ' I Is noticed ft that those emlielUsli-niei- il of women's dresa that are throw-n round the western' necks on the slightest pretext are seldom of ermine this season, Sable are first choice, not iiuly. in long, narrow boas, hut In fancy esiies. which are edged around with tall. The only white fur Imply talk In n dogmatic fashion, ten chances to one, of something they know nothing or very little about, and then lorn their tempera or burst Into tears when any one la rude enough to disagree with them. By arguing I don't mean wrangling. If girls Instead of being told not to argue were encouraged to argue logically and express themselves lucidly social life would become more interesting than It Is today. The most frequent complaint one hoars made by women who, to a certain extent, do think la, I know what I mean, but I cant express myself." Hut the last thing one does hear about, ts a debating club In a girls' school. Yet w t better training could thera be for the woman of the future? ft ft Now let's talk about fun. Tha woman who hasn't several seta of hattd-mifun this winter la as much out of It aa ahe who hasn't an arm covered with unique bracelets. Our cram for pelts la as great as that of the well to do Chinaman who prides himself upon the value and beauty of his stock of furs, ao much so. In fact, that fine furs re handed down from one generation to another as treasured heirlooms, and I have been told that It is no uncommon thing In Chins for a fur garment to have been in the femlly hundreds of years. I wonder what John Chlneman thinks of the western idea of styles radically changing from one season to another! One of the most fashionable furs of the winter, and tha most expensive with the possible exception of sable. Is sliver fox. The Ideal silver fox la Jet black and has a very close pile of an exceedingly soft and silky texture, with the tips of the hairs a beautiful silvery white. A muff and stole of this fur leave nothing to be desired In furry things, for the white flecked, brawny black foxskin aeems to harmonise perfectly with all the modish color schemes. Should sliver fox be beyond one's reach there are the pointed that are real, hut the little white hairs ara Inserted In the pointed species and not horn there, aa they are In the liver variety. large muff waa encircled with stripes of the sealskin. It wsa ths smartest set 1 have seen this winter, but the rarity of ths design and Hie cost of the skins place a act of this kind awsy from the puMSlhllltles of most of us. Mme. Ijetellier, lhe Parisian beauty and noted divorcee, who, rumor says, will inMiry the discarded Count Hull ami help him back to fame, was another patron of the tea nami. Hhe was gowned In a frirlilng Mark velvet with Jih I lo mutch, aw t hell In a cloud of tulle Illusion that lent an added and mystic timriu to her unmistakable beauty. - roa-tun- if, ft ft ft' Brawn fur are exceptionally smart this season, with sable In the lead, followed closely by mink and brown mur-teand even dyed squirrel Is not despised. When black fur is one's ambition. broadtail, Persian lamb, caracul and lynx are chosen. White fox and that the trimming is at the back or gain laid at tha end of the piece. lynx are charmingly young tolooking Collars and boea are of many different faces fresh bring and require pelts style governed out their beauty. Nearly all of the shapes, tha particular wearer. handsome fur sets are ornamented with by the Individual needs of the narrow V with stole The often shaped snlmal. deep of the tails and heads the ao ends In front and the square sailor placed In tha center of the atole, n. 1 c-- 4-- In her gray hair wat ing fashion. a gray velvet bow, a bow with carefully wired loofia. so that the whuli thing took on a very dainty pidse. Hurt the bow been aequlned or other thar simple Its cachet would have been Inst 1 . Exraiit for the coquetry lent by th wiring of the nni there was no hint ot an attempt at dresa up." It was vharmlng successor to tha lace rap o! our graadninllinr. CATHERINE TALBOT. Fashion la Veils. Bread that has been soaked In cold milk or water la light and crumbly, whereas that soaked In hot liqeids is heavy. Boiled white shoes may be cleaned by rubbing with dry pipe clay, using an old tooth or nail brush, rubbing always with the grain of the leather. Cayenne pepper blown Into the cracks where ants congregate will drive them wny. The same remedy la g Iso good for mice. Dull Jet for mourning wear Is handsomer than ever, as It Is seen either in appliques ar worked In elaborate and COATS ft Black gowns of a semlceremnnlnus character are beloved of the Parislenne Just nw. Quite fascinating ara tlie black moueseltne de sole robes striped with Ma k velvet ribbon. The skirts ara veiy full, and when the wearer moves they have tha effort of a finely plaited Jupe. rtouret In tha original or of this delightful novelty. Worth gowna still retain their elegant seIn of outline, and verity evening mn factions he confines Ills arilailr Inspirations almost entirely to the adornment of the bodice. This artist, aa all the world knows, la pas) master In the art of fashioning youthful wedding gown and la equally happy In his toilet for lhe olten no has youthful looking mother of the bride. ft ft Pgqvln. he whom every born and bred Parislenne adore, la making this season some dnlnty marvels In tiny silk coats, with sleeves of varied colors, lo be worn over empliv frocks. An attractive model Is In Kixony gren silk, with cashmere appliques. Another fetching little Jacket la of velvet, brightened with Jet. This new conceit Is most successful when worn with a wide belt of black satin adorned with quaint, fancy butluna. ns WORLD. OUT AND ABOUT IN THE FEMININE and are really flounces The question of how to shrink heavy neath lingerie on under these pretty ervicable 1 put eolve. to ore JJ'wh often a difficult make them stand Hang the material over the clothe line lace rufflef, for they In flimsy '!th the fold on the line and wet It out and prevent their hanging 'h tha garden hose. Allow It to folds. In walking suits beware of the long "ng until dry. It will be quite un- shodlder. wrap In the new shawl-llk- e necessary to Iran it, a the garment and often becoming, 1 ts graceful It very be preased when finished. This the meager empire shape of ffly be done with heavy clothes. loan for is It lovely where thera Is any light loose weave would stretch of wearing it well. chance nd loose Its real stale bread When en much Inshape. using that are favor ld niching liquid. In lrey are being need on petticoats be- - dings always soak It 9- With a picture hat or any large theater hat It la often difficult to put on a veil without crushing In the feathers Hut to return to furs. It la not slons and ruining them. In till caoe a veil the exorbitant pill's asked for skins should be diiened with If possible, If necessary a hair net may be that make garment so enormously and worn. A high, but It's the coat of inxklng It up. hot la no mesh veil worn under the Pinger thought correct, ond. There are comparatively few exjierl this manner of wearing the (ur cutters, and they command tre- Indeed, never veil altogether attained Hama mendous salaries. The planning and No matter how Fashion's approval. scheming necessary lo arrange Ilia patara necessary nor how difterns on the skins so ss to obtain ths many pins beat results lake a lot of time, and a ficult to adjust neatly, the veil must ha worn over the brim, unslip of lhe knife means dollars off lhe der the feathers andbeing slippedwhertrimming tlie of fur. value ever possible. m fox-ski- - d, In Varu and Some Sartorial Wrinftjes JVetiv year9 PARIS, irh throat to the hem of Lhe skirt Is a new and smart touch. The ermine stoic is very smart with long fnn shaiicd ends trimmed with three rows of tiny rrtnlnt: taila The muff Is a large pillow affair. Tha while panne velvet hut. with Its nodding white ostrich feathers and rosettes of gold galloon, seems to have been especially created to go with the reseda green gown. And what do you think of the three piece set of Siberian squirrel? ft ft The study of color will be one of tbe sciences of the future. Experts say that every known shade has Its effect on health and character, and the most valuable are the primary hues red, blue and yellow. It Js worthy of note that all women who hare made history have clothed themselves brilliantly. Cleopatra the serpent of old Nile" loved yellow; Mme. de Pompadour Invented the charming mixture of pink and blue, 111 and the fated Empress Josephine uaed to wear black and white and emerald green that smartest of all color combinations. And In these days some of our great actresses know tha value of color. i FOX SXAST OCCASIONS. A HiriMae Far loot. short rout of Persian lamb mada with a taupe cohired velvet vest, embroidered with gold threaded aoutaclia braid, lias black velvet collar and cuffr, while the matching muff la adorned with mlladls monogram run In gni threads. The rhstelalne bug. likewise of fur. Is similarly adorned with a gold thread nvimgrani. Embroideries of lhe fur seem a farcies 1 method nf adornment, but. It must be noted, such embroideries are used only upon the moire lamb or broadtail skins, and so do not pradura tha clumsy effect one A would imagine. louse Hleta. One of the most distinctive feature of the cloth and woolen blouse are ths little kilted frills nf taffetas with which they are trimmed. They outline the center box plait, a well as the little straps which form a specie of epaulet over the shoulders, in blouses of a more elaborate description these kilted frills are carried out In lace dyed the exact shade of the material, and this la especially noticeable with regard to those of velvet In mulberry and wlna shades and aoft blues. ft A Smart Effect. collar effect are two of the new designs. The latter gives breadth across the shoulders without cutting off the length of the At the new teg room just opposite the Rita In the Place Vendome. the Countess Florio. who spends several months ft ft her In Paris every season and Is very Now for quits another subject, or. much admired, wore g stunning fur set with a tsilor made suit er black broadrather, another thing In clothe. I cloth. The original stole was comtook tea with a delightful old lady-o- ne who revela In the appellation who posed of a band of ermine, Intersected with narrow stripes of sealskin car- 1 la not only charming In herself, but ried lengthwise, and the moderately la always gowned In the moat To effect a really smart appearance It la essential that a waistband should be pulled well down In front and up t the back. It Is astonishing what a difference such little matters aa the foregoing make In the look of a woman's figure. on fine not. round, small beads and studding are frequently noticed In the same material. Rtuddinga women quite capable of being bank officials. but advise them to atari In modestly as clerks In small country the plac e of men who refuse to labor ld. for the low wages Miss Rhone Adair, the much admired English alii golf ihamiilnn who visited America two yeate ago and played many games here, has recently been married to Captain Cuihell, a fellow countryman of here Exquisite appliques on white net have two Nixed scallops embroidered In floral designs In natural colors, combined with heavily psilderi gold dashes, A handsome Irish girl, Elsa d'Esterra. has started In Lmlm a school for society women In which she restore a them to health by making them do severe housework, alternating with literary and scientific classes. Tbe establishment la called tha school of the simple life. A unique buckle, suitable for a dressy afternoon gown, ts a large oval of graceful bold filigree border surrounding and half concealing an oval atona like a huge opal In making a full skirt nf very thin goods It ta a good Idea to cut a strip of soft cloth the wld'h of hem. basting rarofully before turning up ths akirt nd stitching in with tha hem. very flowing designs Requlnx. pointed and are specially impular. Rngled Jet ornaments In graceful festoon design come with alternate right and left figures, greatly simplifying the work of the dressmaker. Mrs. L. A. Ilatrheller Is president of the First National bank of Flngal X. D. Rhe- waa formerly a schoolteacher ami considers that as such sha gained valuable1 training for her present responsible poet. Rhe considers banka Mrs. Anthony J. Drexel, the Philadelphia society leader, always takes a sea trip when she is wearied out by a strenuous eorlat season. On the ocean she finds renewed health and good looks. In Prussia women arc now employed building railroads, i liicfiy at tlie work of grading, the heaviest of all. Th women who do this work are generally of Polish eitfar lion. Ther have taken f r |