2D Sunday, June 23. 1996 CARNIVAL - ROYAL CARIBBEAN --NCI bY AMERICA’S PREMIER CRUISE AGENCY ¢ - -& CRUISES INC. : » Dive into the ba Pay $12. $11 Cash Back Thurs. -State Line Ware Recor om SumEmasae é CJ Scuba diving in the renin a Beeirieeraa 1-800-300-5870 S. ’ to form the islands. TL rrr re : » -* » ee * 7 Cer eree : » ’ +» Clinging to the top and sides of these mountains, in the shallower water that rings the islands, is one of the richest accumulations of coral-reef sea life anywhere in the world. Grand Cayman is the biggest island, less than 20 miles from east to west. Little Cayman and Cayman Brac, sitting a mile apart from each other, are about 75 miles east-northeast of Grand Cayman. It was remarkable how easyit wasto get here. A charterflight from Minneapolis took me directly to Grand Cayman, where I finished my scubacertification over the course of two days. A short flight on a prop plane took me to the smallest island, Little Cayman (population 60), and Sam McCoy’s Diving Lodge. Less than two hours after I got off the plane, I was hanging suspended off Bloody Bay Wall, an experience akin to floating off the rim of the Grand Canyon, examining the cliff face one strata at a time. Climbing a ladder with 40 » poundsof gear on your backis ’ also a harsh reintroduction to » gravity, which, after experiencing ’ weightlessness, really is a drag. » There were three guests + aboard - two womenin their * 50s from upstate New York and » me —- along with Chris McCoy, whorunsthe dive operation at McCoy’s Lodge, and Nigel ’ Kench, an employee of McCoy’s, Caymansconfirmed that « Scuba divigg in the Caymans 7 Days from $650 2 rh, THE BIG RED BOATS Kids Cruise FREE! CALL DARLENE 1-800-200-6748 ANYTIME a Special Guest: Kerry Summers, Direct Descendant of John Taylor Air, Lodging, 24 meals, Winter Quarters, Far West, Liberty Jail, Hannibal, Mississippi River Cruise, Quincy, Carthage, Nauvoo, Kirtland Temple, Johnson Farm, Niagara Falls, Vermont, Sacred Grove, Cumorah Pageamt, Manyotherattractions. the big hotels lining Seven Mile Beach. On the boat, the dive master makes sure each diver has a buddy, that everyoneis properly equipped and that everyone understandsthe terrain, depth and length of the dive. Then you jump overboard. On myfirst dive as a certified diver, at a spot called Aquarium off Grand Cayman, my only objective was to look around. It was a dive to some coral headsin 50 feet of water. Rising out of the sandy bottom were formationsof coral — some huge, some just a few feet high and a few yardslong. Each part of a coral reef is a universe untoitself, and I relished the opportunity to look closely. There are three types of coral: hard — the kind that forms the reefs; thorny - such as now rare black coral, which is made into jewelry in the Caymans; and soft — such as the sea fan. The hard corals are “colonial,” and new colonies grow on the limestone skeletons of their ancestors. In fact, coral is integral even in the existence of the islands: Muchofthe land surface of the Caymansis composed of dead coral that grew on top of the underwater mountains. When the water receded, the islands emerged. The diving industry on the Caymans depends onthesealife. That’s the big draw. Thatit’s an industry is more a blessing than a curse. Much of the water around the Caymanshas been designated a national marine park,andit’s illegal to take anything — even empty shells lying on the beach. Limits have been placed’on how many divers and dive boats can be in a given area at a given time. (which have cartilage but no bones). The sting is reai; a barb Damage happens But there is damage. It can be the result of one well-intentioned individual: Simply touching a coral can kill it; the oils in human skin are toxins to some types. The damage can also come from larger human endeavors: In January, a cruise boat stayed too close to shore during a storm, . battering one of Grand Cayman’s richestreefs. It's another true cliche: People whogo to a wild place inevitably change it by being there. The flood of divers off Grand | Cayman is somethinglike the traffic jams in Yellowstone National Park in August.It’s possible to love something too much. I was thinking aboutthat as I snapped photosof a group of voracious yellowtail snappers and one gray angelfish, all intent on getting some Cheez Whiz. near the base ofthe tail can whip ‘around to deliver a toxic sting, which can be deadly. Our dive leader assured us that the barb was strictly EERESSLPO29: LOOSE is about as easy as getting on a bus. There are 40 dive operations in the Caymans, and most have one or more boats. You sign on for a particular boat and time at the dive shop. Manyare based in our knees in the sand. My instructor had a can of processed cheese food on a string around his wrist. He squirted someofit into the water, and instantly, seven yellowtail snappers appeared to gobbleit up. It took a while longer for the gray angel to make a moredignified approach. Forthe fish, this was a daily occurrence. This small group had become completely fearlessin its hunt for cheese. An even odder confluence of people and animals happens each day at Stingray City, a ~ sandy-bottomed spot in 12 feet of water on the north side of Grand Cayman. One group comesfor sustenance; the otherfor sensation. Stingrays, which can be as wide as 6 feet across, are members of the ancient order of sharks - the cartilaginousfish Since 1968 Thousands travel with Webb Tours because their friends recommend us. Call us at 278-3101 or 1-800-658-8519) a “England: London, Cotswolds, Stratford, Train from Paris | ‘Three LDS Temples (optional) sneer David & Melodie Webb (co Uta Recueileeeteeeettae SSEECE eee 1° National Parks, Rainbow Bridge, Tuahcan ‘Also, Canyonlands river float, Silverton Train, Mesa Verda and More Fall: Foliage Spectacular: September:30 to October 12° defensive, and that because the stingrays are so accustomed to people, we would be safe. The stingrays’ eyes are cn top : are underneath. Normally, they | October 12-20 “Nauvoo, Hannibal, Branson @ Eastern Canada and New England in the fall..only $1,590 1 @ Call and see why we have Utah's most popuiar fall foliage tour Utah's Most Popular Branson Tours = Filline of their bodies, and their mouths scootalong the sandy bottom, using electro-receptors and highly developed senses of smell and touch to find shellfish, crabs and worms. Ai Stingray City, dependence on human handouts has changed their habits. Here, they fly above the sand,sliding their sleek, silky selves across: human skin, smelling for bits of squid. Like the fish who come looking for Cheez Whiz, the TUEEEE Seciems November 21-26 “Christmas in Branson Before I could even settle on the _ view, moving with the merest, symmetrical ripple of their seamless wings. CanadianFall Foliage - & Call 296-8930 or 800-777-5771 Brunswick, Prince Edward !sland, Boston Hawaii - Oct 23 : 11 days, 4 islands- Air, Hotels, Sightseeing American Queen - Nov 27 Thanksgiving on the Mississippi Church History - July 11 Rose Parade - Dec 28 5 days - San Diego, Sea World, L.A., Universal Studio, New Year's Eve Party 16 days - Palmyra Pageant, Nauvoo, NYC, Washington D.C., Boston and more Alaska Cruise - Aug 5 8 ™- Princess Voyage of the Glaciers losted by Danny Kramer of KDYL California Coastal - Labor Day - Aug 30 6 days - Phantom, Welk Resort, Hearst Castle, Monterey, Disneyland - it's the last yearfor the Electric Parade. BEEHIVE Nauvoo & Branson - Aug 4 9 Sateen & Branson, | ndence, sine a & Eureka prings, spectacular cityofIjoseph soph Musical i ® Dec. 27-Jan. 2 © Dec. 31-Jan. 5 Vonasohola | Fencine wYvYVyvyyyY Attimes, all I could see was the white undersides of stingrays. They looked like something to be afraid of — alien monsters — but they seemed to like being petted and were unbelievably soft and smooth to the touch. One sat on myhead,like a giant, diamond-shapedhat. Others took pieces of squid from myhandwith gentle precision. One attacheditself to the upper arm of the dive leader, who,after handling squid all day wasflavoredall over. After he gingerly unstuck it, he had a stingray hickey, in the exact shape ofits mouth. Wewere underwaterwith the stingrays for about 45 minutes. I can’t rememberanything else aboutthe day. Cae 14 days - Niagara, Quebec, Halifax, New December 3-8 “Christmas in Branson ; aos ivimite Bai Mexican | , Riviera om 999" Mexico tom24-9* 3 days on the Holiday. ware ~ I on the reso Valid: 9/641 1/22, 12/6-12/20 Valid: 10/271 Iori (/E712/812/1 Only ») THE MOST POPULAR CRUSE LINE IN THE WORLD!. “Rates are cruise only, per person double occupancy plus port and ps ue De bi ote reflects a stateroomguarantee in category 4. Rates are capacity at embarkation. Some restrictions may apply. Subject to availability. OuseZamve.Pee Popular Branson - Sept 11, Oct 9 or 16 8 days - Shows and activities including Shoji Tabuchi. Niteccae fall colors “t honestly cannot think of one improvement.” C. Hobson “You made us feel like family.” J. Smith ea We loved very minute.” F. Richards stingrays might well be damaged bottom, stingrays swooped into “Wedel oatEocaton Listen to some cf our spring Branson participants: | j' . somehowbythe association. It’s I was taking a photoclass in another way that people whovisit am shallow water off Grand the floating world changeit. Cayman. (There are several Oneby one, we went photo centers on the islands.) We overboard into the clear water. were in about 15 feet of water, on Trusted Travel Partner —SSuaeeboe “Special” cou For Free Brochures "Special" . Staterooms will be assigned MEXICO VVVVVVVVY Tours, Packagesinclude:Air from SLC, hotel. transfers and hotel taxes. Lois S enrichment TOURS with Paul H. Dunn Fall Church History - Oct 3 13 days - Boston, Palmyra,Kirtland, Nauvoo and more. Holy Land - Nov 4 14 days - including Egypt Upcoming: Book of Mormon - February Holy Land - April Dueto the personalized nature of the tours, space islimited. Book early. Morris Vacations Southern Utah Centennial Tour October 4-6 Brian Head,St. , Tuacahn, Bryce Canyon, Zion Nat'l Park & Cinemax $189per person/dbl occ sentiment. Getting started ce Guest Specia' Church History Tour « July 1-14 $1689 p.p. * boat. ’ islands’ islands’ dive industry, 3rd & 4th BM SOUTHERN CARIBBEAN 1-800-660-6664. - Westripped off our tanks, our : buoyancy vests, our wet suits, » and sat down underthe awning . that shaded the front of the dive + asked the three paying customers ’ for an appraisal, and we spent the next 10 minutes exhausting our supply of superlatives. He nodded and smiled. He’d heardit before. “The Bible says we will know the true works of God when we see what he made under the water,” McCoysaid. “It’s in Psalms 107. A lady told methat the other day.” The 13 dives I made in the CARNIVAL CRUISES TisoeCataety > an eight- room,family-run lodge. McCoy, one of the few native , Caymaniansinvolved in the ae oaALASKA Holly's & Betty’ re | distance, the colors glowed up Divers flock to this British crown colony year-round to see what’s underthe sea. The Caymansare part of an undersea mountain range, the tips just barely emerging from the water STEPS CRYSTAL + DOLPHIN - COSTA Minneapolis-St. Paul Star Tribune he leader of the dive pointed to a narrow opening in a wall of coral. One by one, my colleagues entered the crevice and disappeared in descent. I followed them down, and the leader followed me. Narrowslots at the top of the reef allowed sunlight to streak into the tunnel. I found myself slowing down in places wherethe sunlight landed. The walls of the tunnel werealive. Each square foot held a series oflife puzzies: sea urchins, sponges, fan corals and the small faces of hiding fish. Muted at a : ' : ' ' . ALL © RUISE - SPECIALS- SPECIALS PY SPECIALS AILY! CLASSIFIEDS BONDED MONEY SAVE ; LIME - SAVE an aap“atte By CHRIS WELSCH ' Underwater drama ‘ P WESELE r§ a ryLatPAT) British colony makes for an intense experience ' close. I could haveeasilyfloated , in one place, deciphering the ' intricate connections, inch by inch. But we kept moving, following the tunnel down. Sixty feet, 70, 80, 90. At 100 feet, the tunnel ended. I followed the other divers from its confined interior outward to whatseemedlike infinity itself. : The five of us had emerged from ; ahoile in Bloody Bay Wall sheer cliff face that drops 6,000 feet to the bottom of the ocean. , [spent nine days in the * Cayman Islands in February, a total of 216 hours. I spent eight of those hours under the water. , My memory ofthose eight hours ' in the floating world is much : More vivid and seems to cover a ' longer period of time than the + sum of my memories aboutthe ’ other 208 hours. 5 at tials & aefy AUG. 25-29) RENO, LAKE TAHOE:es 2 Caymans “ever vr er ere sxe June 30 1996 Expwes es F ao any Morris ¢ Beehive Office or ape solee oF 295-9443ov 800-777-5771 |— 13nights at ng Oceano Palace bom” 3 89 : 1om?3 98|