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Show LZJ I SERGE OR SATIN FOR MID-SEASON Bt& , R Fabrics Must Bo Wrm Enough IB to Savo Wearing Coats Until B Cooler Fall Days. H BEADING IS STILL' IN FAVOR Mtl Deooratlon Holds Sway Despite Re. W9H cent Adverse Criticism Red Sjlj Delts, Bindings and Fac- Mffi '"' Are Popular. Huj With tho first breath of cool wenth- 1HJ er tho dying season's wardrobo begins Mjf to look like nothing nt all, observes n Brail Now York fashion correspondent. And lift! what In to bo dono for clothes, for He eomethliiR that resembles tho proper Huj' sort of clothes, for this halfway EDDS- period? That is tho problem, and It BHJ is comparatively easy to solva when Hi ono regards tho array of inld-scason HEk dresses that tho shops aro offering. 9M Even on tho streets and In tho rcstau- HuV rants thoro bavo been evidences that, Hj among fashlonahlo women, thcro has HJ) been somo thought of preparedness, H for many nro tho now street frocks MJj that hnvo mndo tholr appearance. A Utt study of them may savo many mis- K' takes. HH Tho dresses of tho intervening sen- HH on nro scrgo or satin, for they must HH bo worn without coats nnd on tho MB street, with lints nnd furs, just as any jBl euit of tho later fall days. TalTctn HK had Its run through tho summer IQl months, but it has reached tho tlmo of IHE discard. Blnck satin or meteor or any liBJ of tho allied materials Is tho thing for 19j street wear, nnd it has como back Into jjHj its own. Tho nower black satin dresses Hjj aro charmliTg enough to luro oven tho Ml purchaser who has decided to wait un- HH til winter is really upon us. IJH It Bounds llko an old story to Ray MB thut tho simpler tho satin dress tho IIH raoro beautiful It is. Most of tho IlHj newer satin gowns for tho street nro HAT In blnck a very few in tho darkest of MR blues or In black and they aro cut on IIH , the 8tratghtcst lines possible, with IHT skirts Just a trlflo fuller than they Ml iinvo been nnd necks that aro round H or pointed, as tho caso of tho Individ. EH ual tnsto mny dictate. A touch of RV somo whlto thing about tho throat and IH tho ncckllno Is n usual thing. It Is MJ moro deinuro In aspect than were tho HJ flaunting fichus of tho spring nnd HJ summer. Hi 8klrts Are Full. Hh j Tlio skirts of theso lntor dresses MJ ' aro full, nnd they tnko on this extra Iflj " , width In various and interesting man- LH ncrs. For instance, thero Is tho pnn- H f clod skirt, with looso nnd flopping 1H breadths at front nnd back or nt both HJ sides, hut usually thcro Is a sugges- MJ Hon of an underskirt which gently J hugs tho flguru and allow the full- H " ness of tho outer skirt to hniig,luoc- ffl? ly over It, The sleeves nro long and IB looso or tight, ns the rune may he. ISJ 801110 of them nro tilled nt the arm- Hm holes nnd others arc put In sn bnguy HJ n fashion as to lime nlinoM no shape IjHj at all. It all depends on Clio llgme H and what It rnn stiiml and what Is lH chosen for n pnrllrulnr case, for there IS Is coming to be mure nnd more of n K regard for the Individual note. Kach Hj woman fnr hor own charm and ex- lH press I on of personality that Is tho I'H new slogan, nnd It Is expressing It B self 'n ovcry direction, especially In ME this caso of tho street frock. H Then thero Is tho serge dresi, which In at this senson of tho year particularly 9 demonstrates Kb plnro In tho ward- BHj robe of Bcusonnblo frocks. Thero Is jflgf nothing to tnko Its plnco nothing thnt Ml ran step In to ninko tho assertion thnt l ' it Is "Just ns good." About this hluo MM . scrgo frock thero Is everything thnt fit is smart and chic. Vlio nower sorgo frocks nro almost suro to be embroidered, embroid-ered, nt least thoso which aro shown now nro so trimmed. This Is an embroidery em-broidery that enn show orlglnnllty, and thcro Is tho best of chnnces for n distinctive dis-tinctive gown when tnsto Is employed In tho selection. Tho most benutlful of thu embroideries nro dono by hand, of courso; they show all colors of the rainbow combined In ono narrow strip. Tho Oriental quality of theso stltchlngs Is most charming, nnd, with tho dnrknoss nnd plainness and richness rich-ness of n background of bluo serge, they hnvo tho character of uttermost fineness. A few hnnd stitches can go a great way in tills particular, especially espe-cially If they aro cleverly distributed and If their colors nro chosen with n view to making tho most of n small mnrn. Woolen Stitches Effective. Woolen studies on bluo scrgo or trlcotlnc, or on any of theso materials that In somo wny resemble ono nnoth-cr, nnoth-cr, nro ns cffcctlvo as anything can bo, and on many of tho nower full frocks they nro seen. lied Is tho color thnt does tho most In this respect. Thcro nro somo scrgo dresses thnt Bhow only long red woolen stitches, with hero nnd thero n stray motif to acccntunto tho Iden of tho color combination. com-bination. Then thero nro others which aro moro lavishly worked up In this snmo color combination. It Is a combination com-bination thnt carries an appeal bo-causo bo-causo of Its cheerfulness. Embroideries following tho Roumanian Rou-manian designs or thoso from Czechoslovakia Czecho-slovakia nro tho roost popular. It Is the strip of many colors thnt has tho first placo In fashionable trimmings, nnd, applied to tho frock of bluo Bcrge, ccrtnlnly shows beauty and wealth of Its texture A frock of bluo serge, ono of tho very nowest to bo seen nnywlicro, has n high glrdlo sort of belt curved In front to n width greater than at any other plnco around tho waist. This strip Is embroidered solidly In reds nnd greens and purples. pur-ples. Then, to repeat this brilliant bit of color, thcro nro bands at tho hips, each about two and a half Inches brond and twclvo Inches long. They nro applied bo that they hold extra stdo fullness for tho skirt Tho neck of the frock Is plnlnly finished by a cord, and tho sleavcs nro ended In tho snmo wny, so thnt nil the trimmings trim-mings nro gathered about tho waist and tho hips. It is n novel grouping of embroidered strips, nnd It Is beautiful beau-tiful as an exnmplo of whnt can bo dono with n smnll amount of embroidered em-broidered trimming cleverly applied. Heading on bluo serge and on satin, for the mnttcr of that criticized not long ngo as not going well together, togeth-er, Is still "going strong," ono might sny. This only goes to provo that tho American woman wants whnt sho unts when she wants It nnd will not bo told thnt her cherished trimming mny not he used In this combination. Red Belts and Qlndlnas. lied belts nnd red bindings nnd red facings nre popular with tho neweT bluo serge frocks. These touches go a long way toward providing that necessary nec-essary clement of style. One little girl nt ten In n gay hotel 'ad a blue sergo frock with a short and ery full skirt, like tho I'nrlslennes nro wearing. Tho bodlco was short nnd tightly lilted lil-ted nnd n bit "tilniwy." The sleeves were tight. The one bit of trimming wns 11 handsomely steel-studded red leather belt not more than nn Inch wide. And with this sho woro n fuzzy turban of yellowish tan benver cloth nuido to flop over ono sldu of her head. Sho had tied this on with n tnn-dotted tnn-dotted veil, under which her dark hair peeped out at little places, and her npp,cnranco wns Just about as smart n thing ns ono could hopo to see. |