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Show TIIE MORNING EXAMINER, SUNDAY, JULY 21, ; - n;- - ' ' Jf " .: tt ' ;!S m Midsummer ISHll, 'i Z& Mm ?p4 vsT' ik MltL, .r 41 ,?& .vr ; !, i r zr. ytffygj .f ?" St' r .$j , , .$ ' $ . A ; P ; vi II - r E' i ,, f i- .; v m gW fe $: S&e& m ?m m JV ?P Blittif Description of Above Models. , . g f$U v : e Vp. '.'I N s. .5. A 'm ;o vc V ' a..-- . a sd ,1. 4',.ij 'ft ; Parisian Tailof Made. A ivl Them to hardly a ahada of red wMeh cannot ba said to ba more or torn pops-tIn Paris at present, and In tha new chiffon cloths with thatr exquisite flnfaii theas oolorings taka on an added luator. Somewhat on tha ahada of th Jacqueminot rad to tha gown el the ptetur la which a llttla velvet aome oriental am broidery, lace and bralt ara all called upon for decorative dw sign. Tha abort coat sage all arauat over tha boned girdle of velvet aad braid. Tha alaava to plain In tha uppsf portion, puffy about the elbow, dropping ar THE-NEVY-FIGU- RE. aeml-taUor- ed mm Into a deep flaring cuff, edged with eat. broidery and having a lace wrist nt fl The aklrt to cleverly built la three mounted upon a moaeyhanK aectlon taffeta foundation, tha upper portio to below the kne dew extends which arly draped in tabller fashion across tha front. Tha finishing flounces ara sack machine atltched and piped with velvet, and a shallow band of princes! haircloth to Inserted In the ham of tha drap aklrt to afford the aaw contoufl .n- M iW to tba aklrt. 0 1 Defining rjE w 1' Su- -v a change In tha fltohloa. Thera able silhouette whan tha newer mods! are employed. Tho round waist of tha 1830 period aad of tha later Dhectoba styles glv a vary different outline to tha flgur This to charmingly shown to thq gown Illustrated. Tha fashionable bolero to arranged over a fitted waistcoat of oriental embroideries In sofa faded coloring which time In wdl with tha delicate almond green tint of tha doth. A broad tressed novelty braid la a deeper tone with a glint of gold showing through It outlines tha holer and serves to define tha fancy parrels upon tha drill: Tha hip yoka to cut with kng rounded tab a second aeries of panel! appearing beneath, with kilted portions the daftly Inserted. Tha length Indean the back, ground. Just barely touching Tho torpedo turban repeats ths tender almond groan Unto of ths gown, and llttla knots of velvet Jacqueminot In tha faded Unto reposed at either M &- fo- Ti SEsta- .- lFOCOUNTRy-WEAYffVRl- I Bay by day now, aa tha Maaoa advance,, coma aaw atylca, caw maleriala. until It aeema aa tliouab tlta dothoa queallon wara of paramount Importanoa, for tha eouaultathma on tka aubject of droaa ara andlaaa, and tha atumtlon of womankind In yenaral la orntand on tha ona aliaorUnc topic. Thera ara many rcaaona why thia ahnuld bo, Clothea ara muck more lavolvad and Intrlcata than avar be fora, and thara ara ao many naw foda and fanclea that It really raqulraa aerioua thousht to plan out a aatlafactury ward robs. Bklrta ara moat puullng; tha a ha pa, dealim, trlmmlnaa and. above all, tha loncth, muat ba moot carefully con aidtred. Ona rula la that all walking akirta ahall ba abort; the neat ultimatum for all Faahlun'a mine ara In tha nature of an ultimatum la to the affect that akirta muat ba long, aa tlie aliort aklrt la an eatremely unbaentn big. At tlila aeaeun of the yenr, when ao many different alylea of auwna muat be made up, tliara muat ba a frock to wear fur a day a ahoppInK, for traveling, for yachting, elc. In vailing, a abort gown la nut effect ive, and yet veiling gnwna are neceaury. And ao it goaa, until tha prohluto aeema almoat unaolvablaL liut, after all, a aafa rula la to have akirta or guwna Intended fur walking, traveling or ahopplng made abort, and for afternoon gown, long drmltntln or with long sweeping train. Flounced akirta are Immrnaely fnah-I- c unblc and bid fair to be more popular, and It It eztraoi dluury how tuuuy different atylae of ttuuncea there are-- ao snrri.w they ara more in Ilia nature of rutllea put on In gathered or planted effect or iullo acant, ao arranged that one flounce falls over the other or that in n wide apnea between, and ao on IrdaCnttely. Trimmed akirta ara according to tha Inteat die la tea. One of tha neweat models has biaa hands of tha malarial put on full at one aldo and In loops and bauda; between l barn hands are narrow fringed lUfiunga of tha same shade aa the material, while Ilia aklrt Itself la gathered Into the waistband nt tha aides and hack. and chifFrirgcd rwhlnga of taff--lfon trim lightweight clothe and veiling gowns, put on. aa Just described, between tha flat band of other trimming, or oa tha edge of tha flounces of the color of tha material or black. In tha new colored and figured veilings thia b a moat effective trimming and bids fair to become a fad. aa It l romoara lively Inexpensive nnd possible for the great majority, lioz plcatlrgs are aleo ona of the now fuel,. Iona, nod area the stiff ued pleating, in aalin rlbnon are attempted: It b too early to aay they me accepted aa a new style. Ceats and shirts costumes aru Vd not to be ao fr.aauiub;a aaata end skirts with m pirate coat or wrap, and yet op woman would lor a moment think she could an through ,ie 1 cb-taoat end akin i,fWiiiiia Mara and more faahioiui&a u becoming to have all doth gnwna made up elaborately with embroidered flounces, with silk velvet, satin or fancy braid trimming, ao tha original Idea of tha talkir-mad- a gown seams to have been rullraly ban eight of. tt amnia pnaalng strange hi view of the fact that country lira b supremely fashionable at tha moment and In order la enjoy country Ufa, whan. simple and appropriate clothes are n that tliere should lie this erase necessity foe such elaborate styles. Conservative tailors have a different Btury to tell, of orders received tor the plainest tailor gowns made on (ha regu-,of. yeura, with conu mid akirta to match and with lltilo or no trimming, tha amartrat of tlia aowna eciiriHl by tlie of cut lit ond by tlia niatorial clioara. Thisand summer them aw aU .tatemento to ll traiy. any number of smart gowns beli-mad. of Cheviot., acrg. Oxford, n.7x- ,at Wl11 nd the I dullest kind of wear, the skirt In aide Weal, or seven with dec ided flam uIiBhV.wh.?1 lkH,nc "A medium coat. No csiH-p(he turndown collar and cuff Fancy waists worn with them gwna ara moat attractive and arc made in ellk. crape da chine and chiffon. Tho flne India linon waists look esrevdina'y imnit with Uie solid with tht htlivd rhnvluif ft more eff, ctlv oontraet is obtained with Hie hngliter color. Klnburnte bre. sJIk lwn me rxtmncly "n,i. praity. The heavily embroidered and richly trimmed muelina and line on do not ItMik bad. The doth coetnmee are so varied la atylxe and color ihr.t it would aerm neo cerary to provide three or tour !a order to have always tha appropriate one to wear for each occasion, dotlis are more fashionable than ginooth usual for thb Mine of the yeur, and are loade in elaborate designs or after exceedingly plain h"' cot rart ly uw vlh nn7i: ephna. and instead a liluuse wllh belt and the fronis made to coat hang over the to It in front. It a N ..... ? "l "!! 'r loug-waiat- a-i- r d la a caps pure and simple, or la merged Into deep stitched yokes or sleeve on pea. The Incoming dl recto! ra modes, whose arrival ' no one la disputing, ara bringing with them lapela, waist coats, deep girdles and shoulders not a whit Ices sloping than in 1KJ0 models, but with an added breadth and .4 bouffantry, Tha majority of tha smartest Imported tailor-made- s have full akirta full dear to tha girdle A large number of such toilets ara' without tha alga of a gore tha volume being plaited or shirred according to tha whim of Its maker. Taka such a aklrt, cut It with two Inches on the floor In front and at tha sides and you have thia summer's masterpiece of tho Parisian couturiers a garment made vithout a thought of the exigencies of pedal movements Aa to shapes In hats there are aa many aa there are milliners to make them. It to ona of those seasons when the demarcation between tha fashionable and tha unfashionable la very vagus and when anything that to becoming, aultable Smart flcturesuue or ara trimmed "goes with straw collar a akirta arc arrang-- d novel fashion tor thoss women w ho have not klrla- - " aattraX ,,J 'vrn akirta have yiihtcd to common sense end can now be made In the height of faslihm wit to out so ninny counties, yards malcrblsL The aoft clou, loiks well made la uek designs as glvts lengths to upfig(he ure and nt the same time show the beatify of the nihii riaL They also look wed in more chi borate atylee. atirhiu li.e g.iihcrvd and shirred side and liack. Kind, of tflects at the velvet nhls.n rde-nthe gr,d widths n round the fool of the skins V,r't f trimming, but c.inimi be s.dd to be ou.y suitable with fact. It is used on taB- ta or cio vMling even oftener. Lrai.llng and bra.d both fashionable Mrs sru-oand are n ed cn at, materii:,. wl:m umoiI the tort are guned. when pm? tc.n b unobtrusive ard the bra.fing itviH to tto hra.ds are all elf. -- live, ns wit!, toe bi.iidu,-l- le to tl:-rj.e holi t:.;,t U no Bdvb used, toe style tf permit ; I & the use of fancy braid In straight hands down the front, around the neck Knd as a finish to thn sleeves and often there 111 not he any more used on the satire gowns, the skirt being left plain. Women who had lmp-- d fur tha arrival of a simpler and Ices extravagant toahmn In feminine dress aa a natural reversion from the ornate and elaborate mdes of the Issl tew years will find their hopes turned 10 ashes by tha Introduction of tlie Uircrtolre Myles. They will have to Walt, at least, for the fickle goddess who presides over apparel to tire of this last whim before their hopes find fruition. The d'.rectolre modes ara more dignified and loss frivolous than era tlmse of the 1SW period, which ara Just settling bni-- Into history, but they are far from economical. Rlrh material fine laces, exquisite needlework, and. above all, tha handling of an artist in cut and finish, ara required to carry them out. Taka Loula XV. root for example. At Ita beat H to a thing suited only to the most elaborate wear, tolng of sumptuous m.itcrlnls rich, ly emlimhtewd and todight with real Uu-and jeweled buttons. Only in tins guise is the long hasqued affair, with Its distinctive waisicoast big Inp.-lpocket flaps end cuffs, jabots end sleeve ruffs remln, scent or tha age which gave It Its a garment, acmrrpnnl-- d hv skirt of the same material beautifully trimmed to complete the skirt. Is the acme of elegance at this moment and Is living seen daily at friable tishle e. It will he left to tha fall and winter to produce this first rlisrartrr-Istic or the ncwjuid mo,le in trnns- formulk-sciitd tj commercial produc-l.viloovu love the one auascstod Such n, are, aa a rule, kept In one ton the liat and ita plumes matching tlia a skht ami tha coat. Colon this year are taking very mosaic names. Among tha moat fashionable ara tobacco and dead leaf brown, onion, guosclterry green, raspberry and straw i k. torry pink, mustard etc. Yellow In various shades to yellow, very much used as an accessory hue. and so, too, are brlaht dark greens and blues, champagne tints and a medley of rose hue. Khiided materials and trimmings ara very much used. Very gradually tha fashionable silhouette hns changed, until the clinging, modes of n year ago, milady's drooping s and skirts, stand out as If (minted. Over and It to said that shoulders era long,again hut they no longer droop aa they did. Breadth has hern taken on. This to accomplished In many ways. Sleeves now ara fullest just above the elhow, and at the point Is found the greatest width. But the upper part of the sleeve to undergoing a transformation. It to be-- . coming full from low shoulder to el- Isiw. There to one exception to this rule, the direr tolre costume. Here the sleeve Is mors or lew g its entire length, ending in a wide front which droops a frill of lac cuff, Tha shoulder and aklrt are the cen- trrs about which all the new modes ara revolving. Aa to the shoulder, nothing must with Ite outline, and thia mandate extends also to the neck. Tho summary extinction of ths peirrina and cape collars continues to ba heralded, but they arc conspleunui on sonic of the smartest creations from the n d signer The pelerine, to ba sure, has assumed a alutwi-lik- e air and tha caps close-fittin- d-- rp, j lntt-rfi-r- gaih-nin- r.-- re us Mile. ih jne buckles straw buttons straw caba-chostraw bows and often have their e h-- n . v 4 k - I , .A Swell , , IAN-TAILO- AD RM E( 1 t e S ft pl Irlin-nlu- the New Figure. to quite V By Our Bpcclal CormpoudM UIRIA1I BriER. ' . I best-know- j Fads and Fab rics. For avrell functions tha doubla-wtdtshot taffatas and tha measallna silks ara tha moat popular fabric and aa tha season grown older these cloths will steadily increase In favor, and dresses mads entirely of thesa materials will be The latest sleeve to very faahionabl very much wider; tha newest shape clings to tha arm until Just below tha elbow, when It swells out sharply, being caught In again at tha wrist with a wide, tight caff. Tucked yoke blouses ara In great demand in both London and I arl but this style to only suitable for tho softer fabric such aa India linon and muslin, crepe da china or tha thinner foulard silk Tha tucker to usually made of gathered chiffon or figured mousarllne da not tha body part being cut all in ona and fastens at tha back. Tha blouses which ara Intended for afternoon or evening functions of sonfh pretention ara properly mad with a g foundation. Tha latest mode blouse where muslins or the grass lawns ara used has a decided tendency toward fulness In front, with a niching up tha center seam, and should ba g tacked on to tho yoked foundation. The full sleeve also calls for a niched appearance on tho upper scam and to mounted on a g lining. Tha aklrt for a double-widt- h silk Is now made In five piece with the entire fulness caught at tha waistband. In tha back tha widths should ba cut extra wide, ao aa to cause tha hark skirt to fall In rich, broad fold which should ba acce&luaied at tha back clonh tlght-flttln- tight-fittin- tlght-flttln- ing plait, brtma outlined with straw hands mad straws braided toup of many-hue- d gether. Thara ara oven tha straw flower and something that to supposed to look like a straw feather. Tha chio turban continues to hold Ita popularity. A stylish hat In tha turban ahap intended for dressy tailored was mads of chamyagna costume straw of a vary ooama waav with brown golden satjn taffeta ribbon and a shaded breast, la which tha tan or belga tones wara carriad out, tho trimming: Tha edge of tha brim waa finished .with a fold of tha satin ribbon, and tha ribbon waa over tha belt side of tha brim In fold against which tha shaded was disposed: a square buckle of tha straw braid concealed tha end of tho breast This Idea could ba carriad out offectlvaly with green satin rlbbln In a bright emerald shad and a breast Instead of tha green Green, by tho way, to ona of tha. season's features In tha millinery world; green plums and paradise aigrettes being much favored, especially as trimming for a champagne colored straw, or a golden brown or block. A Pleated Design. An extremely graceful design to tM ona pictured and one which will Mid Itself to almost any figure with equally are good affect. Inserted fan pleats is ssa 5s& hang freW The ttStJtajJtoJjM dot seams, tho velvet Inset of add gause tow th II ttls and Ut; sleeve large. button Tha tie cape effect to gained In tbs deep cap which heads tha full puff. For Country Wear. ol Tweeds hava avarbeen the etides oomtry the dever dreseer for w door wear, and tha mannish natures rh exactly the beat SAtopim wear wdi S5tE They took and even the roughest, wew. ahapa under aw dsdMly and. beet of nil. or co g able. Tha tooss tha newest fashion, .under wl' aeml-nttln- The Wide Sleeve. The Increasing aim of sleeves from ths elbows downward has not only grown Into a perplexity for the dressmaker but has even troubled the manufao-turer- a who have now produced tho more fashionable fabrics for summer wear In wida widths ao aa to permit rimes voluminous sleeves to ba cut all la ona plecs. This to especially tiyia la muslins and tha summer silk The most fashionable fabrics now as shown by tha demands In tha swell Parisian and London shops ara tha fins quality soft good such an linon da sol eoUsance and crepe ds chin These goods whan made up require only a loco trimming; as they ara made with ao many frilla and racking of tha materials thsav-aelvtrimmings ara dis- ea that other couraged. Tho Etna Jacket and d a .SSaSw arMsuftME-- a ! shiny shoe from rubbing. The Town Tailor-Maf- effect Rather a noveltallor-msde severely plain e in just over ths curve of athsh'IW-fed back, with quite each aeam below tho lltMaaPJj, wlth fronts ora to and fasten after th! dart, four-buttcutaway. The ,ct . Inverted P'ckuw with gtnw!and to built to dear IMRSrtM ESSnl a tailored binding Siam Pfll pockets lOTHtf 9 .J!a and give a very Jaunty effect lads"seml-flttln- js g. " on .Sfaad lain Jackets and short-wai- st ed boleros left open In front ara vary fashionable Just now. and aa all tha newest blouses ara mads of tho thinnest possible material an out of door Jacket la really necessary. In these Jackets tha collar la always separate, and the slews la made all in ona piece, Tha latest fad of cutting a side piece aU in ona with the front la a great advantage, as It makes ths Jacket more sultabl and If a double-widt- h soft fabric Is used, aa eollenne or chiffon velvet, tha Jacket can wen ha made without shoulder scam silks or wide, aoft taffetas ara Liberty Ideal fabrics for such Jackets and have been adopted by tba moat exclusive turners at both London aad Pari Eton-Shape- gored, with The Tailor-Mad- e Turban- - ark Tha closely fitting turbansthan thing, even more popular so In fit TSneraNT early spring. They that the shirtwaist suit and the leaa formal style of unB!,rtfb7wo-thet- r success is not at jp dered at. Tho smart Uttla -tured to In fancy straw compnn brim The the green lint, straw arranged In upatandln?1 th fls dneely to the In shape and back slightly projects n shallow bandeau In the besdp'r. the necessary lift. fording velvet roses are posed foJylt shaded side, the long stems looped. the to carried all around foliage with strands of tha stems falltaa ytg tm. flash. . 1 |