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Show Stately and Graceful Gown - - , FROM the salon of a gifted designer in Paris comes this stately and graceful gown. It is worth much study as an exposition of present styles, without any departure from beautiful outlining of the figure and the best management of fashionable fabrics with brocaded surfaces. Any of the dark rich colors of the season taupe, corbleu, paprika, wood and golden browns, sapphirb blue. The skirt is In two pieces, with the uppermost cut away from the knees 'downward in a "V" shape. It is draped with three small plaits to give it the fashionable slant, and posed over an under piece that is also caught up a little at the front. This under piece is not closed at the back, and by this arrangement the skirt, which seems to hang in so closely about the ankles, still gives room for reasy walking. i There is no attempt at even hanging about the bottom of skirts these days. They are correctly draped when the uneven-hanging caused by drapery is allowed to speak for itself as a part of the play. There is a bodice of brocaded bro-caded silk under a small coat of cloth like that in the skirt It has a graceful grace-ful neck round, with a narrow "V" cut out at the front. A fine net guimpe is worn under it, which is round at the neck. The long sleeves of this bodice are set in at the arm-eye, arm-eye, but not close fitting in the upper arm. A fine frill of point d'Esprit gives a perfect finish to the sleeves. Providing the long shoulder, the small coat blouses over the belt line at the sides and back. It has a long narrow basque sloping away over the hips and falling almost to the knees. It is finished with a very wide and heavy fringe and is wonderfully effective. effec-tive. Similar coats Blope away to a panel at the back, finished at the ends with a broad band of fur or plush. This finish has proved more popular than the fringe. A hat with some width of brim is fitting with a gown of so much character, char-acter, and that is what was chosen. It has the small, soft crown, which almost al-most effaces itself, and the simple trimming which characterizes the season. sea-son. Two short full ostrich heads or a fancy ostrich ornament are curled over the brim in models of this kind, and the brim usually shows an indentation inden-tation at one side. The front of the under bodice is arranged ar-ranged to fall out over the waist line and is a novelty in arrangement that is noteworthy. Altogether this is an achievement in designing so good that it will outlive less beautiful model3 and look well for two seasons or more. The life of pretty gowns, most of them costing considerable time and some money, should not be so brief that the time spent in making them is not worth while. JULIA BOTTOM LEY. |