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Show IT HF- " W wLr I THE TAILOR BUILT SUIT! lZeet winter u ? w Styles j Bj, HELEN FALCO -1 oa sufficiently simple lines, while It Is at the 6ame tlmo decidedly a hand-somo hand-somo suit. It Is quite enough for morning wear and distinctive enough for all day use. Tho Jacket 13 half-length, half-length, with helt and front cut in one. Tho Bleeve Is of the conventional cut which goes with such ft jacket. Tho skirt Is made with pleated flounce, the front panel being cut with the stripes running diagonally. The semi-fitting costume on the RICH MATERIALS AND ELABORATE TRIMMINGS USED Gorgeous Results Produced By Artistic Color Combinations Com-binations Jackets of Semi-Fitting Type Braid Heavily Used 4 PARIS DECREES RESTORATION OF THE SHORT COAT Good News For Limited Pocketbooks As It Isn't Hard to Have Your Last Year's Long One Cut Down Russian blouse effect in tho style that became so vastly popular last year, although this I rather an adaptation than an imitation. It fastens with braided buttons, tne collar and culls being of velvet. Tho Bklrt Is cut In Ave gores. A beautiful Redfern suit that a friend of mine brought over from Paris this fall is of dark, plum-color broadcloth, heavily embellished with black silk braid, Tho Jacket Is short, tho collar and cuffs being of Astrakhan. As-trakhan. The contrast produced between be-tween the simplicity of the style and tho richness of the material gave an effect of subdued clcganco that is only reproduced In the Rue de la Faix. Another An-other one wa3 in red broadcloth; the Jacket was plain, with two large buttons but-tons at the waistline that gave a very chic air to it. A delightful contrast was afforded by the collar and cuffs of black broadcloth. Thus you see that a great deal of the decorative effects ef-fects arc arrived at by color composition. composi-tion. Expensive Simpllollr. One of tho most quietly distinguished distin-guished costumes I saw in tho Fifth avenue shops was of blue broadcloth. The- skirt was in sections of small doublo pleats to simulate panels. Between Be-tween these sections, about eight Inches from the bottom of the skirt, a strnpplng of wide, black silk braid piped with velvet was introduced. Tho Jacket was of the new seinl-futlng variety va-riety I described above, with trimming of tho braid on cuffs, revors ana pockets. Attractive buttons of heavy, corded silk, with a rim of volvet, rounded out the decorative scheme. Another was a suit of brown English mixture. The slrt was pleated and tho Jacket plain, with just a touch of green broadcloth in tho collar. The buttons were of. brown cloth. Nearly all the buttons, by the W3y, on thU winter's suits aro of the samo material as the coat, frequently with a 6atin or velvet rim. A Study In rtrovrn Tonri. I can't resist describing a reception gown I saw. It had all the beauty of line that is such a delight to tho eye and such a welcome and distinctive fcaturo of this season's dresses. Tho richness of Us materials were enough to recall the apocryphal account of the splendor of King Solomon'tj court, with, perhaps, a good deal more appreciation ap-preciation of artistic values than tho ladles of that- historic epoch could have possessed. Tho background of the canvas, as it wcro, was brown broadcloth tho exquisite now shade of brown that the dyers have Just succeeded suc-ceeded in producing for thl3 season. A beaded chiffon 6carf hung loosa from the left sldo of tho bodice. The skirt was slashed on both sides. Both skirt and bodlco wero ornamented with a half moon design in silk braid. The sleeves were of satin and net ana the crushed belt was also of satin. The wholo thing was an exquisite study in brown. Tho satin was of a lighter shade than tho broadcloth, whlio tho iridescent beading on tho chiffon ecarf flashed like gold in the light. To complete the symphony tho low tones of tho braiding contributed Just tho necessary harmonious link between tho satin nDd the broadcloth. I think I mentioned, did I not, that the overdress Is going to bo cven'moro popular this season for reception gown3 than it was last? An example of this was a costume of whito satin, with an overdress of green chiffon, trimmed with whito ball fringe. Tho crush belt was of green satin, finishing finish-ing in a bow with long ends, trimmed with a fringe Tho sleeved were of white satin and lace. Tho wholo gown was qulto elaborately trimmed with small, fancy buttons. ' ... ii.mn m IIMIH PWU'I iummiiHgai L , LET tho woman of good figure rejoice re-joice and be glad. The edict ha3 gone forth from tho Rue do la Paix aud the long coat is doomed. For the tailor built woman tbJa winter there are nothing but short coats, in which she can display to full advantage the comely curves and good lines of her shapely body. Long coats havo had a good, prosperous reign, any way, and the change is welcome, for, ploasing as they wcro to the eye when they first came In, it was high time wo bad a little variety. Again, tho woman who is at her best ia line feather, whom much ornamentation ornamen-tation becomes, and who docs not shine to full advantage in tho austerity auster-ity of raiment that was supremo last year, may breatho a blgh of relief. For tho most handsome suits that have com out of Redt'ern's and Taquin's aro elaborately trimmed. A certain degree of last winter's severity is to bo porceived in some models, but they aro adapted mostly for morning wear and shopping. It is always desirable to have a suit of this kind In one's wardrobe, of course, and it will always bo good form for the woman who can indulge herself in only few clothes. ITeoTlly Braided. In my visits to the shops that cater to the best New York patronage I have noticed that tho leading models put forward were broadcloths, cheviots chev-iots and serges, most of which wcro elaborately braided. Some also had braid that was put on qulto plainly. While Jackets aro not fitted qulto cloaely, yet they follow the lines of tho figure. To my mind this is the Ideal cut for a tailor-made. It gives tho effect ef-fect of looseness whllo 6tlll conforming conform-ing to the shape that nature and the corsetlere Join in giving us. Fancy collars and cuffs aro seen on a sreat many suits, revcrs of velvet and silk. Belts of patent leather aro still much liked. Generally they match tho costume cos-tume In color, but if black is used for a trimming, it is continued In the belt, Tho new oneB are extremely narrow, scarcely more than a line at the natural natu-ral walstllno. Gold Buttons. On the coat of a costume of blue cloth, striped with black over a big sailor collar of the material, falls one of hairy white cloth, coarsely woven; each collar is simply stitched at the edges. Big bullet buttons of dull old gold continue tho ornamontatlon; double cuffs match tho collars. A second costume of fine red wool, stripod in clusters with thrco lino black lines, is trimmed with black mohair braid and big ball buttons of black velvet. A third costume of white wool, striped with black, has Its big collar and cuffs of whito watered ben-gallne; ben-gallne; on this are gold bullet buttons. but-tons. A fourth of rough, hairy whito cloth has trimmings of white moire and buttons of white pearl. By these1 short descriptions it will bo seen that at tho moment there is a. furore for theso buttons. Smaller buttons in countless quantitiestiny quanti-tiestiny flat, gold things trim an afternoon gown of -white wood crepon, printed with Empire green, and built on Empire lines. The buttons sprinkle tho sleeves, tho neck band and the high belt of the corsage and tho edge of the band hemming the skirt, A tailored costume of whito watered bengallne Is wonderfully effective trimmed with black fur and worn -with a black hat All theso new tailored costumes have short skirts pUlted m Bomo form or other. A cluster in the 'jJJli "' " 1 U ""'1"1rfV' iPJJ 1 i mmmm 111 ini MsHiili I Pi i 1 1 fanfttMMf 1 In If i ll,1" ; i ! 1 "PfMf Vw' iisf i k & , J fright Is of cheviot and is fastened at ' tho side where tho belt meets the fiont panel. Tho cut of tho skirt is severely plain to tho knee; then is fln- ished with a deep, box-pleated flounce. ' The trimmings are of silk and ; soutacho braid. Tho model with the j fur trimming Is of tan-colored broad- cloth, qulto elaborately braided with ; narrow black soutache braid down tr.e entire left side. The collar and cuffs are of Persian lamb, the belt being f ; corded. The basque is attached to i the skirt, giving the effect of a one- ! piece costume. I Handsome Afternoon Salt. ', A beautiful tailored costume for at- ( ! tcruoon wear is shoun. The collar ! r and cuffs are of Liberty silk, the b;lt ' 'i and buttons being of the material. 1 Tho skirt Is cut with an over-tunic i Sopcn at the front team. The last illus-liatlon illus-liatlon Is a very useful suit of wook-n diagonal material. The Jacket felves a Dack, or at ono side, even. It may bo, in front The opening may bo anywhere, any-where, concealed under a plait or lett at one side of front or back to form part of the decoration. For Morning- Wear. The suits Illustrated are representative represen-tative of the best designs that havo been shown this year. Both the woman with limited means and bhe who can afford to have a fairly large wardrobo can find among them 6ne that is suited to her physique, temperament and coloring. The ono made up in striped woolen material Is particularly adapted for general wear, being ruado |