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Show intricacy Underlies Simplicity I . BY SABA MARSHALL COOK JL II j Clever Details FSOM an-v qU8rterS f-he3rs f-he3rs the fate of fashions bc-meWed. bc-meWed. From all d-L d-L , the eiy, "Where are the F dries" Our dressmakers are J pCnt, in dre that one can E about and worry about as d,f- CUfrom those of la year l.e fjh of skirts, in the shape necklines or whether sleeves mil hf neckline ( L full or tigntmtinr. Lcisms that one hears of present-t present-t fashions way be converted mto L.i,e of the Rood judgment of our feigners, ho. through the last Evveer?. have come to realize that iy when sensational upheavals f dress could be achieved has pnaeed. iGood taste in dress has developed I ,uch an extent that the bizarre Ed the really novel receive but an jndihrent reception. The percent-ue percent-ue of smartly dressed women is Er on the increase, and the num-Lr num-Lr of those who desire to be con-E,euous con-E,euous constantly decreasing. I Tho!e who make clothes have nut (pursued the line of least resistance Klose stud of their models shows i Mat under appaient simplicity lies m clever compilation of cut. A Straight Skirt ; That Swathes the Hips rpilERE are r numerable clever . ways of cutting garments which neveal the hand of the master mak-wr. mak-wr. The way m which the circulai tgodet is introduceil is an example of this. During thn last few year? f there has been a per.-isten' endcaor i to introduce ful! skins Realizing Mat a fashion is a thing of slow Mevtlopment. dressmakers have pmiedthis point in subtle and unobtrusive un-obtrusive v ss They are st.ll endeavoring en-deavoring to bring the full skirt fonard, and n afe u, predict But the success of the full skirt is hwured, but its success will not be las immediate one. It will be two i I or three years be:ou we will see it : place the much-liked model of slimmer outline. IljOne of the cleverest ideas which Hi been widely taken up this sea-jlOD sea-jlOD is that of making the ,mple lone piece dres the basis of the j three-piece suit by means of a skirt t which is really nothing more than a itraijht piece of doth wrapped , wound the body l,ri0w the h.ps and' fotened ,th a kngc button or hcklc- T cloth Ekirt is usually h?n down the left side to reveal tte unddress in the form of a A PBel. This costume is completed i a short jacket which either 'fteskirtonsofatomh.. Sil!n of the cloth and fur. In m instances the jacket is made ec!'rely of fur. fa Dinner Dre89 Made of fwl Differcnt Fabrics A FREXCU mod,! of his type is down to-day. It is developed V hone.vcomb worsted in two t,njtred and golden tan, and mk beaver fur The ma-J ma-J lntertingly W0l-ked with j,?! bandS' Which trim both e the 8kirt. It has a PWhne.anugly fitting jacket. L Jr,8 made f scvcrai I Srhmb,-n.deSofone M feature of the new fash- A model of th,.?0J t made bv M kd in dmner Wn dfel- Hurp,e, mauve aml 3jlvcr( I'UtT iV t0nC' tne bo(lice is I Cee ;ffn- Thcadg,vdle; I M"d8ilver brocade II ft etyf fc, n bro,;aii and embroi.lc- ", hlUon raU'df'-nthoillUS-1 r n shows a Pdi i Mule hav allotlnodel which. earble r ' 'S Slmple and iresaa," .conaists an over-k over-k Tv ' bluc and silver bro- W, uCrUnd n Which J,J';J- rh,aUre.! smad, - with the heavy padded Kir die placed at the normal waistline and ending in a huge rosette of dark blue silk to match the undevdress which ia revealed through the front opening I in the skirt. I Velvet and Matelasse Interestine'v Combined I I T'RAV ia still a favorite shade foi evening coats. The aeasotv waa rather advanced last winter when gray evening coats fast made then appearance, eo it is but natural that this shade should he i arrlcd ' over to thi6 winter. A typical gray evening c'aL from . Upper ro, reading from the left Afternoon dress from Hence o) castor-colored crepe Mongol cove, ed nnlh a irZungo natron fadle ribbon Paiou coat of dark blue cloth lined nth red crepe de dune. 7 he colla, and u is are of squirrel Suit from Martial ei Armand of tan doth trimmed nuth beaver fur. Lower w. left to nshl-Crav velvet coat trimmed with hands af taupe fur. Dress of blue and gold brocade worn over a dad ' blue slip. Japanese tvpe of dinner gown developed m purple, mauve and sitver. Bernard, of ParK is sketched on this page The model is known as Prince Errant. It is developed in gray velvet trimmed with bands of taupe fur. The sleeves and lidea 5i the mantle are entirely of fur and there is a huge fur collar. In addition addi-tion t. thi3 lavish ornamentation there are silk and metal cmhroid-, cmhroid-, eries in the form of narrow bands extending the length of the coat on either side of the front and back land passim: in a double row around : the sleeves Velvet is a very important fabric j for both afternoon and evening 1 coats and dresses. Another evening I coat of velvet, also shown to-dnv, is by Pnlou It is of dark navy blue 'velvet lined with red crepe de Chine, with the collar and cuffs of scjuirrel. Interesting costumes arc in combination com-bination of velvet and matelasse. j One recently imported consiata of a sheath dress of roso colored mute-l.. mute-l.. .. and u tin-length cape of brown I velvet lavishly trimmed with fur and j lined with the rose material from , which the dress is made. 1 Sixty Yards of Ribbon Trim a Simple Frock HHEfE working 6f the material from Which the frock is made into n , trimming is not a new idea, but ono ' that is exploited more than ever this ' season, and in more interesting way than ever before. Ribbons, too, exactly matching the gown in color, also arc mucl Used for trimmings. Or, it migh better be said, much ribbon is usee for it is nothing to use fifty or ixt yards of ribbon on one simple frocl such as the Kenee model at the up per left of the sketch, which is of a deep castor shade of crepe Mongol trimmed with narrow faille ribbon of exactly matching shade. This model requires 125 meters of the libbon to make the design. Colored silk or metal ribhons are ' massed together to form flower mo-i mo-i tifs which are used especially for ' trimming girdles. Narrow iurs also are worked in interesting ways as trimmings. |