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Show BTOSJ MS" When tho summit of tho Andc3 was finally reached, after tho long climb by train, coach and lnuleback, nnd tho glories of this wonderful range wero in full view, tho appropriateness of what the cowboy said when ho first saw tho mountains camo forcibly to mind. Tho rough follow was a man of deep feeling, but fo.v words. As his eyes took In tho spectacle, and Its grardeur grow upon him, his spirit of appreciation nroso until, no longer nblo to contain himself, ho flung his wido-brlmnied lint In the air and enthusiastically en-thusiastically shouted: "Hurrah for God." This trlhuto of tho honest plalnsmnn, although very brief and slmplo, Is moro eloquent with feeling than wholo chapters of description. Tho first night going from Snntl-ago Snntl-ago to Argentina, tho traveler from tho Andes sleeps In n corrugated Iron shed so high up tho trail that ho does burning check, nnd wonder If It Is really blistered. Tho clouds drift aimlessly aim-lessly because thoro Is no piloting wind to shnpo their courso. Tho train kicks up nn enveloping smudgo of dust, which sticks as closo as a bodyguard. body-guard. Your ojes are red, and your noso and throat becomo raw. Awako jou think of nothing but water, nnd If you doze, ynur mind dwells on It ns you sleep. "Over 400 men started across tho desert and only forty-thrco got oer nllvo. Thoso white things out there, shining In tho sun, nro tho bones of men nnd horses. Farther on thoro Is a gulch choked with tho bleaching bones of a thousand cattlo thnt died of thirst" Why will your companions tHl such stories when jou nre so thirsty' Thoro is a stir among tho passengers passen-gers as tho train swerves around tho baso of a Jutting promontory, bring- Cathedral, Buenos Ayres. not neod any Ico for his tea To say that ho sleeps hero tho first night Is misleading ho only stays n few hours. It hardly seems ho has had tlmo to warm his blankets before tho guides aro nfter him. Tho Btart Is mado In tho dark, and at n paco that Is thrilling. As his mulo gallops wildly wild-ly around tho edges of dizzy precipices, preci-pices, ho shudders from other causes than tho cold. But tho sunrlso Is his recompense. It nil happens ns quickly as tho opening open-ing of a Jack-in-the-box. Long, slender slen-der arms of light reach up and tear tho robo of night Into shreds; tho summits flash white; tho mist rolls out of tho canons: nnd there, In all their miles of splendor downward, upward and outward stand tho mountains in unveiled glory, with tho sun scrambling hastily over tholr crest, thon soaring Into tho sky. Tho wholo thing Is over In nn instnnt. No mechanism could movo so swiftly, so noiselessly, and so effectively. After tho hasty scramble over tho frost nnd snow of tho summit comes tho hair-raising descent. Tho guides toll you that tho mules never fall, but how they can keep tholr feet nt such a paco seoms a miracle Down! Down I Down! Tho summits sway In tho whlto light above and tho canons yawn below. As tho mules gallop around tho projecting shoulder of a frowning cliff, running perilously near the preclplco, thero Is a thunderous j roar In n neighboring chnsm as a I mass of rock breaks nway and crashes Into space. Ono doesn't know whether to laugh or to pray. Thero Is a fooling fool-ing of great exhilaration mingled with a senso of fear. Tho train makes nn nil-day Job of getting down to Ben level. Tho eyes hurt from tho whlto light and tho throat burns from tho lntcnso heat. Tho dust becomes a plaguo. Tho train stops nt a forlorn llttlo station, and as tho gasping, panting onglno Is allowed to quench Its thirst from tho nozzlo of a water tank, you nod In your scat. You think tho car is running through Ing into view a grovo of Lombardy poplars. They encouragingly wavo their plumes across tho interval of wasto. "Thero must bo water over there," says the fat drummer. A llttlo llt-tlo later wo glldo along tho edgo of a great field of alfnlfa, dotted with tho snowy blossoms of whlto clover; then wo begin to traverso vineyards whero great quantltl a of ripening fruit givo promise of much wine. As wo skirt somo pnsturo lands, tho cattle, sheep nnd horses stop their browsing to look In wonder at tho dirty, rumbling train. Tho whistle of tho englno blows ono faint, tired blast, and tho porters aro pulling off their grimy luggage at Mon-doza Mon-doza If tho foothills felt like a furnace, Mcndoza seems -ko an oven. U Is now Into afternoon and, although this day's sun has done Its worst, thero Is still no oscapo from tho heat. Tho coachman walks his gaunt horses, but ovon though thoy movo at n snail's pace, thoy aio soon wet with persrlra-tlon. persrlra-tlon. Fretful women sit In tho door-ways door-ways and fan their flushed faces; whllo poovish children quarrel as they swarm tho sldowalks and gutters. Wo trundle across an iron brldgo that spans tho dry bod of a river. So thero was nothing In tho promiso of tho poplars) Evidently thero was not onough wator to go around. All aboard for Buenos Ayres! What a relief to seo tho desert falling bo-hind bo-hind In tho raco with steam. Never before wero water, soap and towels so wolcome. Wo now havo a sleeping car "mado In U. S. A.," nnd someone says tho tables In tho dining car havo whlto covers. Tho express strikes Its gait, and tho panorama unwinds Uko a scroll. It has been a long, long dny, but that sunrlso In tho Andos was moro splendid splen-did than a transformation scono In n spectnelo of tho fairies, and this sunset sun-set on tho pampas is a glory of another an-other kind. Ono was n proclamation and tho other a benediction. To seo tho waning sun batho tho great pampas pam-pas in its flood of yollow light; to Monument In Plaza. n tunnel In n mountain of ico cream and you havon't got n spoon 1 Tho rldo nmong tho button from Inci to Mendozn la Uko n passage through n furnace. Tho nlr Is hot and heavy. You put yonr bnnd to your ' !?l jots. -jaaat wntch tho reds fade into bluos; to remain n bpectntor ns night's forces closo down upon tho earth, and post tho picket stars to watch, Is well worth all tho dust and boat and thirst of tho crossing ot tho desert. |