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Show 1 Oil Style Card I ' as Fall Nears IDesplto (ho mushroom success of ' now tnllorg and dressmakers In Paris who linvo brought out certain simple, types and popularized them to un nl-most nl-most unheurd of extent, many women, writes n Paris fashion correspondent, now nro ordering their clothes from houses that have held to their own definite types through nil these changes In fashion. Madclolno Vlonnct, who only n short tlmo ago might havo been termed nu outsider In the great drcssinuklng circles, has Impressed both Franca and America very deeply with her slmplo floating panel styles nnd handkerchief Grapery, but as women continually do- ernnd varying types tho opportunity Is sot lacking for tho success of a variety of styles. This gives a houso Ilka Jeanno Lanvln an opportunity to keep j her definite types. ' One model Is a box coat suit In 3 blue serge marked oft In llttlo squares I , with white braid and hluo bends. It 3 has tho high frilled collar nnd Jabot which continue to find favor. Lun- 1 vln has for somo tlmo been n strong 1 ' advocnta of these short, youthful-look- ;i lng Jackets, as well as nil sorts of i frilled high collars and fluffy Jabot 'I effects. i Designer Mark Always Present. i It Is a very good thing for clothes I , In general that tho great makers hold n definitely to Ideas that aro distinctly their own. Tho designing and making Jc ef dress Is a great deal of a gnmblo, u H the past two years havo shown very !' . 1 plainly that there Is no telling when I ' a very simple thing mhy meet with an I almost ovcr-nlght success. I If all the dressmakers In Paris had I followed Vlonnct'a lead and mndo t S her type of dreaa because It was tho i best seller for tho tlmo being, they 1 would have lost their enchot com- 1 pletely and would have been prac- I tlcally nowhere when tho wave of en- 1 thtHlssw over thla particular style had died down, as It certainly must. fi Of course, they cannot always hold iVf (o a definite type. No designer can I m tn'a and be a BUCC0SS Now themes EX or variations of successful old ones I H ' tnQst l0 continually worked out I If Flowing Sleeve and High Collar. I B Tho sauio holds true of those who S do not design clothes, but Import to K"3 America tho works of tho various I great French makers. They must I V permit their own taste to prevail In am making their choice. For Instance, It el I wns n" vcry we'' to or,nC ovor tliaso I V tinlquo models from Mtidelclno et 3 Madeleine which had tho waistline l placed at the knees, if ono desired II Jk ,0 now Krcnt novc' BUt " wns not 11 sVi reasonable to aupptfao that tho women jfffl of this country or any other, no matter LIB "ow caprlcloua tlicy might bo, were 49 likely to adopt such a fnntnstlc style. PjUkI There are two outstanding features MisK ot t0 I',inv,n clothes which aro notice-BB notice-BB ablo In dress at tho present time the Ham flowing sleeve of greater length than MM those used heretofore and the high Evil collar. Tho former might bo termed Bill fashion which Is thoroughly crystal y$QB llrcd nnd tho latter u strong fashion Sail tendency. yBljt Sleeves open at the top to reveal iHBH almost tho outlro nrm nro featured JB In one frock. It wns created by Lnn- nfll vln for n woll-known French uctrcss KgKf to wcqr In n recent production. The WBft Thin Is only one of tho many Indlcn- iSj&BB Hons that the more" lustrous materials rtful will vto with dull silks this autumn. naBI Perhaps they will surpass them In flffiHff popular favor. It Is too early to know PgSX but It Is certainly safo to predict that "$ ""'y wl" ,ie ,I!,H' extensively. Many l hnndsomo models of shiny silks will HflJ 1 bo seen nt tho autumn openings. It HfC I will then remain for women to tnke Bn 1 their rhotco, but It Is vory likely thnt HMU the DUU"C wl" hnvo tlrc) l0 Rrcat extent of the dull finish and the crepy weiivo In silks. I.anvln always has been an orlg-Inntor orlg-Inntor of most Intcrestliig ombrold-cries, ombrold-cries, ncccntly she has been working work-ing out some extrnordlnnry effects through entirely new meuns. For Instance, In-stance, she uses tliuej tinted In lovely color tones nnd applies It to tho frock to glvo the effect of embroidered puncls. 8ome New Trimming Effect. In n charming suit this effect has been achieved through tho uso of the whlto braid and bluo beads. One cannot Imagine this maker departing entirely from embroldorlcs or embroidered em-broidered effects, as work of this sort has been raised to tho eminence of a fine art In her work rooms nnd no amount of study and effort spared to produco the best In this lino. Children, too, have their fashions nowadays and their clothes aro receiving re-ceiving an amount of study nnd attention at-tention which would hnvo astonished makers of children's clothes n few yenrs ago. Great designers hnve discovered dis-covered the nrtlstlc possibilities that llo In theso little garments. Conse-material Conse-material used Is a soft black sntln. qucntly they nre Infinitely more attractive at-tractive than In the days when they did not differ from tho dresses of their elders and when little babies' dresses were miniature duplicates of their mothers' frocks, or even within the last decade, when clothes for llttlo people were Just plain nnd useful. Of course, tho best children's clothes ore slmplo. It Is Impossible to overdo simplicity In them. And no mutter how simple, they may have some special Interest of design or trimming, as do those of grownups. Wo have In great abundance the frills, flounces and fichus of a hundred hun-dred years ago In dresses for future debutantes, but the vcry smartest thing Is the chemise dress of white or somo dellcntely colored French voile with a bit of hand needlework adorning It. Styles Seen at the Races. Tho lovely summer days brought out n large attendance at the race courses. All of tho week days are mora chic than tho Sundays and It Is on bright, sunny afternoons nt Longchnmps, Auteull Saint Cloud, Malson Lnfltta and Vlnccnncs that the smart Paris-lenue Paris-lenue hns an opportunity to display her latest extravagances. Among tho novelties noted are plaid enpo wraps which aro nothing more than big. straight scarfs, as wide as they nre long, tlMown across the shoulders. Too much emphasis cannot bo laid upon the continued popularity of tho cape and tha continued uso of monkey fur ns a trimming on every form of summer wrap for both day and evening eve-ning wear. |