Show paris passes on the latest cpr spring M g mode after years of scarcely perceptible changes last season benson brought about a radical modification in the outline of dress dregs the two parallel par allol lines which constitute the feminine silhouette broadened slightly toward the bottom to form tile the shaped skirt the same contour characterizes the spring mode oven even slimmer than before and distinctly shorter ond and it la Is only in the details of tile the costume that any appreciable departure from the previous season can bo be noted asserts a parts paris fashion writer in the new york tribune the models are an exemplification of the artistry of the designer diversi tying dying tile the unchanged line with an adept manipulation of flounce plait and panel skirts have been decidedly short ened their average length varies from ton ten to twelve inches above the ground in combination with tile the film aim 61 evening gown of sliver brocade showing chino chine flowers in pink and green pie line alno of the skirt these short length p s endow the wearer with the appearance appear agee of a sixteen year old girl at least when viewed from the buck back in the spring collection are three basic keynotes first there Is the shaped flounce which preserves its preponderant rolo role in tile the formal evening gown it becomes more complicated it tapers it undulates but it rema remains ns the outstanding feature of this typo type of dress plaits in limelight second and of greatest importance fire are plaits tho the platted plaited dress dresa in till all its forms la a distinct manifestation of the season and finds varied expression sion in the tailor made costume the summer frock and in dresses for the seaside and spa opa has placed marked emphasis upon novel plat plantings tings and they are used in numberless ways on frocks cloaks and jackets even to for r linings the amalgamation of the plaited form with tile the shaped form will in all probability lead to a return to the fashions of the lie period but les iles cle gantes may be reassured they will not be transformed into m modern do de Mau passant heroines for the return to t tho he SOs will be highly modernized the shaped flounce will diminish in size but in order to give it volume it will be plaited on long simple tunics tunica it amplifies the lower lowe r part of tile the sll sit bouette a forecast of the fashions of tomorrow the third fundamental characteristic of the paton showing la Is the ensemble a combination of ingenious outlines with harmonizing or soft blending colors it Is an inseparable whole the final theme of innumerable variations and la Is particularly noteworthy in sports frocks afternoon gowns and evening robes most of which aro are corn com binca with a cloak intended to be worn I 1 its as nn an integral part of the costume the ensembles du sair chez are very lovely the long evening wraps fire are richly embroidered or trimmed with costly furs euch as sable and chinchilla and the dresses are equally beautiful one model shows a gown of green arcon artificial satin elaborately embroidered in gold silver nud and copper cooper threads tile the wrap Is black and to s lined with tho the green satin of the gown capo cape of red velvet another shows a cape developed in a beautiful shado shade of bright red velvet with a huge collar of chinchilla fur and a dress of crepe romaine in the same vivid red the cascading panet panel at tho the left side Is ornamented with a spray of paradise dyed to match tile the dress A very striking ensemble shows a green velvet wrap with a sable col lar lap and a dress of gold not net ered in turquoise blue and gold beads and gold and old rose threads the range of spring and summer afternoon gowns Is much more extensive than that for winter wear this year tho the three piece gown line has disappeared from the salons of it has been replaced by the tailored gown and by the afternoon ensemble consisting of a i dress and coat especially delg designed ned to bo worn together plaiting the in ineal cabe table method oi of ornamentation Is the principal trimming note on this typo type of costume nearly all the tailored suits rely upon plaiting in somo some form for their elaboration stitched plaits in band form side plaits i forming panels wide inverted plaits s stitched three quarte quarterma ra of their length aad an d then allowed t to hang freely frealy and box plaits are noteworthy plaits are also used as a trimming inin ifor for jackets and tho the same idea Is carried out in the skirt tile the sports costume lins has attained a position of primary importance in the modes of spring lind summer tile the models of are always very aim plo and chic principally because of tile the character of the materials particularly adapted to tennis aro are skirts with multiple plaits worn with sweaters in fr isotta a new and very successful fabric the richness of whose tints Is 18 very pleasing to the eye under the glare of the summer sun other sports costumes in more neutral and duller tones are carried out in english chevi ot and mens woolen sui sul tings leather Is the predominant fabric for motor cloaks and the newest models are developed in bright shade oi of red and blue new necklines klines the backof lack of variety in the spring oil ell has thrown the burden of the new mode upon the details of dress which a as s a consequence know no restraining mandates the neckline in particular has been subjected to varied manipulations by tho the leading design ors of 0 paris chanel shows a decided change in the neckline a departure from the bateau form in fact she entirely neglects this type in tier her collection are many round necklines klines particularly in evening dresses the back being cut much deeper than the front frequently to below tile the 1 shoulder blades |