| Show I 1 I 1 tailor madek made Is most important because Ilc couso the tailor made note to la the newest ono one in fashions of the moment it la Is stressed as tile the most important says caya a fashion writer in the new york herald already tho the makers ere are complaining pla pin ining that it will bo be overdone that the afternoon clothes for older women and tile the evening gowns are being neglected it Is too much copied find nd exploited ed they say to long endured endure this may in a measure bo be true but tile the unobtrusiveness of the dork dark colors used will ivill bo be a 0 factor in lite preserving serving its popularity and usefulness and sometimes after a flaro flare of a mode settles down into being an accepted fact and a simple mode has haa many more chr chances rices of survival than the more extreme types copied for the sake bake of novelty A tailored dress drega made to order to la a thing so BO difficult of imitation that there Is not much chance of it being duplicated to any great extent there are oa an many ways to adapt it to 0 o tile the individuality of the wearer na ins there would be it if it were an afternoon dress and no ono one advocates abolishing them because they havo have become wearisome in tile the first place the silhouette of tho the tailored dress la Is very much diversified by the addition of circular flounces at the front or all the woy around by plaits and by panels panela of all descriptions by being pinched in at ono one side or naboth ant and by hanging straight in tunic fashion sleeves also present all the variations that it Is possible to have in the dayt daytime tine from the ultra smart long tight fitting ones with sharp pointed culls cuffs to dresses almost without sleeves simple dress most moat successful philippe et gaston has haa been very successful this season with unusually simple dresses in them the long narrow biow belted waistline Is used and the tong long fairly tight sleeve in one dress the main feature of tile tho decoration consists of insets of tho the rep running in contrary direction to the rest of A vest of white silk embroidered in blue Is a faatu feature a of af this catchy model the material beginning with a perpendicular cular eular cut of material la in tile the blouse and horizontal in the skirt A long very narrow vest Is of white tucked material with collar to match with this simple dress quite complete in itself itsel f Is a straight jacket with bands of crosswise material running the length of tile the fronts tile the inset vest Is a marked chaplic of the tal tailored lored mode from this house for it again appears in L model of dark blue rep with vest of white silk embroidered in severe points all around tho the edges so deep to Is tills this vest that tho the lower part of it la in crossed by the belt in III tills this model note too the increased height of the collar and tho the manner in which it stands frankly up around tho the chin all that lias has been said about the straight unchanged silhouette keemp two small plaits at the sides give the slight pinched in effect in this suit to be merely a n matter of comparison in many of its latest manifestations it cannot be called straight and still emko use of the circular flounce with out varying in some degree this Is 18 a form of the tailored or simple day dress dresa that drecoll makes use of in a successful model which has for its chief decoration insets of finely platted plaited mn material the tha color scheme of this dress dresa Is dark blue trimmed with red from tile tho bateau neek neck line straight tucks extend well below tile the hip bip line where a square section Is outlined with a narrow band of the tucks the square having the effect of a largo large patch pocket at a line just above tho the knees the circular flounce Is set on in this dress it Is used at the back bach as well as in the front narrow bands of the material constitute the sleeves tile the tucking running the up and down way ot the sleeves buttons on black kasha model A black kasha dress has it a line ot of the buttons as trimming set on a abaid band of white extending the length of the tunic which Is belt less and ends just below the knees A whito white scarf la is par part t of tile the design of tills this dress shadow plaids in black with linings and in colors are frequent A black and white plaid or rather a black ground material with a scarcely visible cross bar in white Is mad with a detachable cape of tile the saint material lined in red and ana trimmed with red kid at the sides simulating a girdle ottosen Ol losen who Is counted an authority in suits has presented his spring versions of the tailored type tho the slightly fitted or pinched ln in jacket la Is among the ones which have caused comment it follows the generally accepted straight lines except that at each side above tile the slot pocket a little inverted plait catches in the fullness in an easy manner another suit by this maker has panels at each side of the front ending in a curved bound pocket trimmed with small buttons several of tho the other makers are ard showing suits accenting tile the curved manner in a slightly fitted line which contrary to the treatment of Ol losen allows the bottom of the jacket to set out from the kilps with a alon of a flare |
