Show 14 w tt T faster arld tn VA st tarra 5 s gara inexhaustible in its mystic signia cance the holy week in rome how ever familiar to the memory or im in agitation agi nation stirs always a renewed wonder in those nho ho witness it above all else rome is a city of memories the walls and arches of imperial d days LYS the renaissance pal aces and the churches which mark bevery every step in the long march from primitive christianity to papal su I 1 demacy these stamp themselves on the mind the incongruous modern elements are as transitory in their impression as is the whirling dust from a motor car blown past the tombs on the applan way the walls of aurelian Aure liin the statue of marcus aurelius benignant on the capitol the august disarray of the forum these are actual and imperl sh able so too Is the spacious asplen dor of st peter s with its solemn sequence of ritual in which as the holy week advance so mystic and superb a drama of divinity Is en ell acted there are many moods in chien to approach the great easter services in the great papal city from that of the devote to whom the ever burning lamps round the apostle apostles s tomb maric a spot only less sacred than that of the holy sepulcher itself to that of the casual sightseer sight seer who flutters his baedeker unabashed through the aw tul ful mystery of the mass perhaps those do not see least of the cance who look on the magni magnificent cent ceremonies onles with a haunting cons conscious I 1 ness of rome romes s twofold greatness and who never quite lose sight of the city of the caesars in the city of the saints it Is impossible even to approach bt st peter peters s where most of us choose to see the services in spite of the ri A val claims of the mother of hurches it lt Is impossible to reaca the curving colonnades and mighty front without passing by memorials ol 01 an earlier hostile life and creed per haps in driving thither the wanderer may catch a glimpse of the immortal pair the great twin brethren who guard in stone the stairs to the capi tol or it may be the shattered ma jestic columns of the temple of mars altor have bave lifted for a moment their stern memorial of caesar s death and augustus vengeance once within st peters peter s however conflicting memories fall away lost as is all sense of minor faults in the building itself in the impression of vastness of an alIen all enfolding and all reconciling hospitality that hospital ity is taxed by the crowds wh c i gather for the services of holy week palm sunday initiates the series of elaborate ceremonies with its beautt ful rite of blessing the palms A mot ley throng it is which streams up the wide steps and gathers about the altar above which glows in a golden halo the holy dove there are the foreign sight sightseers seers of course made evident by their campstools camp stools and red guide books but there are also soldiers in picturesque variety of uniform priests wearing their black draperies in the classic folds which recall the toga shepherds from the campagna beard ed and wild eyed in their sheepskins pilgrims from far countries with the fixed visionary gaze of those who 1 on their sacred places after long de sire sacred indeed Is the spot t to those who hold the faith of rome in front of the high altar with its baldacchino the twisted bronze columns tower ing up superbly yet dwarfed by the firmament of the dome above burn the golden never dying lamps which mark the resting place so tradition says of the apostle but on palm sunday the attention is fixed on the altar in the cappella giulia and the pressure of the eager people increases as the has bas bets of palms are set down by the a A i to i altar stairs and the canons slowly move to their places the priests are in violet the lenten color the deep hue brightened by wonderful inter weaving of gold and silver and the crucifix on the altar 1 Is a also ISO violet veiled there Is no organ music a and na the deep notes of the chanting swell with a strange solemnity through the echoing vaults slowly the brilliancy grows the candles gleam out on the altar the cardinal in his sweeping robes and scarlet cap advances among attendant priests and acolytes the space before the altar Is filled with figures white or purple robed jobed show ing jn in a vague richness through the clouds of 0 incense the long service goes on with the monotonous priestly recitals the responses of the people occasional bursts of exquisite singing at last the solemn final word and gesture of at blessing have been given and one by one the priests lift and bear away the palm branches then the olive which is given in their stead to the people is brought for ward in great sheaves and a priest in gold embroidered violet robe holds out the silvery branches to the hands which reach and clutch for them till all the nearest of the throng have re calved their portion and pass on twigs to those behind peace and blessing is that olive to bring to those who reverently reve renly receive the gleaming leaves the distribution completed the card cardl cal dal and canons with their attendant train move in stately procession down the church out into the portico and so back to the altar they bear aloft with the tall tapers and the shrouded crucifix the golden palm branches not simple boughs such as were cast before christ by the people of jerusa lem these are fantastically dipped and twisted till they lok more lik furled standards stand aids a significant touch in that church which Is eo so ready to turn the martyr symbol into the con banner DORA GREENWELL M CHESNEY |