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Show THE SUNDAY STANDARD: IT AH, OGDEN, AUGUST 11, SUNDAY, 1907, iOMfcn ar5 3!!K!!Ulini!Ill!I(!llSSl!!Illl!U!lllll!nnilllllUlt!Illli r. 'v ' - fc Y- - - r t '' ' red. yellow and blue, and you huve your palette ready made at hand. FJace a bloiwr under the work to catch superfluous moisture and keep your brush dry. Finally, there are the exquisite shadow work parasols, which w girl clever with her needle can make effective if she uses a soft color for the shadow work and line the sunshade with thin material to match. A Cool Hat. Green hats and green trimmings are one of the late summer' introductions among popular fancies - A smart one was seen recently with a white linen suit. The hat was of fin green straw trimmed with a auft drapery of green silk and two big gray wing, ever which fell a pair of softly shaded was the The hat shape green wings. of a big belL A Sanstol Revival, For light wraps nothing la prettier than the old fashioned mantelet, which pw been revived not only for older women. hut for girls as welL These are made of bruaaels net trimmed with lace over china silk, also of awiaa embroidery trimmed with Its own ruffle and black ailk covered with ruffles of lace or flak net edged with ribbon. Colors are not fashionable in these wrapA the preference being given to black and white. They are made of on piece only, with lung narrow stoles, and the fullness la giveu by the shirred and gathered ruffle at the edge of the cape and at the end of the stoles. They nr easy ta make at home and can be worn over any manner of thin frock. The Rajah Coat. Ob of the smartest of rajah coat suits seen this season was of champagne color. The skirt was cut In five gores, with a very narrow front panel of embroidery, and this was bordered oa either side by a stitched band of taffeta of the same shade. Around the bottom pas a narrow band of tha taffeta, with a simple dealga In embroidery heading It at the two aid front fores and outlining the two aid front seams. The back, was quit plain, except for the band of silk around tha bottom. Thera wan a pony coat wt least it was aa near a pony model as anything. Ia It wars no side scams, and the bark was cut In French Ths lines with tha empire effect. fronts were fashioned of crosswise tucking, supplemented with a narrow shaped vest of taffeta decorated with silk frogs, which also served as fastenings. An odd featur waa Introduced in the vest, which waa some two Inches shorter than the side fronts, and Just where this vest ended, or at the waist line, were tws large ornaments of crochet silk. Tha sleeves were somewhat mors full than ordinarily seen In the prevailing models and bagged slightly over the narrow Buy espe-cial'.- spe-.kle- pM -- Ky v y , c ?- 4' -- 'y& j W a'. ...- - '.' - v i - iV; jv? ' - J Vi .... v j-7- ; , . . Ifai tM rntmam-zrr- SL-? H t Piii - VSSsi'' , 55 & ' A .' . 5f . W .. ' JKI .iSi? .' 5 A1I .sALv j.. ? .C'JkV I AFETCfflNGTVllEPOKE are few really old Indie source for the matron. To Jump from found .nowaday, but one egtrrme to anuther, one of the fur ahuwa a new boating dr in eome charming ma- a young girl, a pnu tit I frock, In whl-- li tron Whs do Dot poor young lf hera-and women and ah ar not ashamed of the girl dor the rowing role for the lime being of their beautiful while hair. They are give upIn the the tiers and looking pretty young in miiul and body and very often sitting while a Gibsonesqus creature of the in figure a well I have lie sympathy niaoiulln paddle the canoe. Tha for the womnn who ha perhaps a jolly sunbounet type effect carried out In the family around her and yet who says, white tulle hat la very charming, and with the air of a martyr, that It doe block velvet on the brim net matter what aha wear, for her day lathe touch of FPenchy. ealremely fa over. Probably If ihla la the way she feel her day la aura enough over, but Tha Papular Pump, ho ought to eonalder the bad effect Pump, both la whit a kid and In white this ha on the young aptMta growing leather, are worn, and the trimming for up around bar, and In these days, when the pump oonalata of a tiny bow of the oehoolboy la ao proud of hla well while klii There are ehamel pumps dimmed, young looking mother, and the In the pale color which go vary well girl who la Just coming out look upon 'with the pastel, such as light yellow, her aa her beat friend or a kind of the moat delicate of green and the tin-selder aleter, It I only tight that ahn and softest of heliotrope. ahould take an Interest in hr clot has. In and every cue the dtocklng Kb may vea be a grandmother Inmuxt match the shoes, and the match deed, eome of the smartest and hand- must be peart. There la no inch thing somest womea hero In America are a shoe and elorkfng that do not but It does not follow that sho muat match. They muiit correspond to go about In funereal black. On the nicety, fa brio, tone and general style contrary, with white hair she will look being the same. better la cream, white, pale gray, green The Rsdingsta Again. or mauv at leant In tbo summer From Faria come word that tha very months. The long linen and sweeping draperies of the reams In anft satins, latest fad of tha ultra faohinnable Is taffeta and mouaarllne and the re- the haiaa fitting, tmllned redlngote of vival ef the lace fichu are happy re- - mouaavlina, elaborately sou inched. This -- A THERE at :M-- . m elbowy cuff. brssaAAWWTl BOATING COmiMF filmy garment, though not cut full and looee, doe not cling daoely to the figa soft, vague outline ure, but fulls suggesting the lilies of tha figure be- neath. The soutache embroidery la very heavy and ekilmrate at the bottom, running up upon the laxly of the coat In lla liter and mure scattered design, ntid the neck and lonae draped sleeves are bordered In heavy design. Worn over white summer frocks this redln-gnt- e, either in blnrk or white, promt to be one of the favorite tarn-leof the Parisians, who apeak the Inst word on tha aeaaon'a fashions but the garment la too extreme and too costly to find acceptance with any other class. Ahaut the Partial. Borne of tha newest parasols at easy to lmitat aa well aa attractive in themselves. fine auch fat of whit linen, embroidered with rows of large white stork. The design la such as on might pet from any Look Illustration an Illustrated edition of Andersens fairy tales, for Instance mid since it la done la outline and anttn atltch It la quick and atmple work. MARRAAARRRARRRRAMAMMWWAMWMRRMMMAMMIMMVMMARMMMMMMAWWMMWMWM , Fer putdoer U sa- lt woman la a suburbanite and uses the train dully, she can make no better choice for protection of her frock than to wear one of theee rajah ulsters, Another hint for thq girl who has to muds loose and full and covering every travel a long way to make both ends inch of her gown. The silk finished rubber coats In meet lies In a sunshade of the softest cream linen painted .with soft bluish bright blue and ether colors flood tha counters and seem to be popular. They purple hydrangeas a Any girl with an lota of artistic taste or talent can make one of thee for herself, given a plain and inexpensive parasol. Each petal of the flower la simply splotch of paint, and tha linen takes tha color beautifully, blending It Into all oorta of soft shades. Only a word to tig amateur do not ia use ordinary paints, but dyes or tains, preferably tha former. pyro-graph- are not pretty, they are hot, and they promise to be exceedingly common. However, as so many women like them there Is little use for entering a protest against them. They were brought out merely for motoring and are new used for shopping by women who have never been In n motor, Just aa elbow sleeves In bio usee were brought out for house . Changes la 8 leaves. Change in fashions are fi!K often in sleeve, though at i season all length eeeoi to be ,V"1'' If for any reason there is tx revolution in them, thm a generally look fairly .man throurhi; another three or four ir.ontiu. a, there ia . no especially change in the sleeve, , they are wTi line those worn last your, but on , inspection there is visible a de tendency toward a longer model was fashionable last st ring. Now there to a distinct style of appropriate for every dross FoTth! for example, full ierJ? morning, sleeves ar returning, to favar. i r emoon ar full a simple suit, elbow length forieugth a re.! tion drees, and then in the evening tu sleeves remain very short. J? . 7! three-quarte- A Handsome Gown. A very attractive dinner gown wont by one of New Yorks elect at a tart, lunabto uptown restaurant a few since showed to advantage thenights toll combination of two materialsstyi. m one frock In this instance soft thigao satin with mousseline de euir. costume, waa n princess the bodM made entirely of the satin tucked at ths waist line and separated at this point by panels of tha tucked luousseUne which extend to the top of the foot flounce. Beth the satin and the niou. selln were white, while tha ribbon ap. pllquee at the top of the flounce were in a delicate shaoe of pink mixed with threads of silver, and a very narrow silver sequin edging bordered the strap, pings of satin on tha chiffon in ths back breadth, likewise in the front panel. The bodloe, . rnt in a point In tha back and rounding In ths front, was draped with point lace, which fell over the top of the arm and waa caught up on the left arm with a band of black malines, tha right arm being covered wjth a tiny puff tit the lace. The fouu. datlon of this costume was a whit taffeta princess, boned snugly to ths figure and draped with a delicate pink chiffon. A dog collar of pearls with diamond clasps and a diamond chain bracelet were the only ornaments For Mourning Wean One mod late declares that women whs are in mourning are in perpetual ludecl-alo- ft as to what to proper to wear and what to not The attraction of tha colored goWrn to undeniable. And, after her long wearing of black, a woman looks forward eagerly to putting on something more cheerful, but there am proprieties to ba observed. And it la hers that ths fine trick of tha dross artist can ba noted. For the benefit of the woman who has worn black for a year or more there may be given some fashion rules fur the guidance of her wardrobe. One ef these to that aha may wear all the gold Jewelry she owns and all the Jet She may also wear silver, gun metal, gold antiques and all other ornaments that are not set with colored stones Diamonds and pearls are permissible in all but ths deepest mourning, and for second mourning there now conies some pretty Jewelry In violet enamel Pretty llttto violets with a pearl in the middle and lovely big purple enamel pansies with a diamond In the heart are worn. They make tha moat becoming ornaments and have the advantage of brightness to make ths costume mors cheerful. ' bMRRRMM parts fasbton Glimpses from Boulevard and Bots; v . f Catherine Calbot Discusses the Hverage Cdeeh 6nd Hffatr Parisians have taken up the wsek end parties in tbs country. Originally Intended aa a safety valve for society during tha rush of ths winter season, ths week end has now graduaDy ram to be the most important feature of tha summer. In theory there Is nothing mure delightful ar beneficial than one of these parties, and if the wsek end of fact boro ire ire resemblance to that of fancy we should in all probability thrive upon it. As It to. however, it ta quit the most exbansting of ail the amusements designed tor our benefit and carried out to our undoing. For one thing the week end to frequently a plunge into the unknown. There are, of course, some houses In which w know by experience or Intuition Just wbat to expect. A long course of thru functions s bats the instinct ts such aa extent that one ran pretty accurately gauge the capacity of the cook and the mental capabilities of the guests by ths way the hostess pats on her hat. We all know perfectly well the bourn to avoid. In which the g units are expected to make conversation after dinner and where you have an uncomfortnblo feeling that unless yon attend Bunday morning service with the family you are under the ban of your hostess' displeasure, tint then theres the other week end party that is the most enjoyable of Institutions where everybody is Jolly and congenial and where you are not entertained to distraction. A Dreadful Suspicion. In my wanderings about at these affairs I have com to the conclusion that their lack of aucceas to due to the fact that a great majority of hoNtenaea seem to Invite their guests on the alCertainly this phabetical principle. must have been the cbm at a party in wrhlcli I found myself last week, for beyond the fort that everybodys name began with H there was no earthly clew as to why they should have been collected under the same roof. If any Of them had had sufficient sense of liumur to see the Incongruity of the situation, the party might have proved more cheerful. As it was they all took themselves seriously, and there was nothing left to do but to yawn and get through the dragging hours aa best they could. It whs a fine commentary on natural "election to rompsro the gloom of the assembled company on Friday evening with Its cheerfulness on Monday morning. On then realized how great had been the tension of the pervious daya and the Intense relief we all felt at parting from each ether and, I regret to say. from our hostess. In England when royalty goes visit July PARIS, ZT. ing It hna ths privilege of Inviting Us own company, tinder these circumstance one ran imagine an ideal week sod. l'h amort set when it Inaugurated the fashion of "bringing your own man with you" was also striving In the right direction, for really when you coma to think of It nothing ia mors difficult as a rule than to get on with the iruia or woman provided far you by harassed hostess. In bringing your own friends yon have biken a great responsibility off her rhnuldrru, while if the parly ia a failure w HI. In that case, to quota ths poet, "You have only yourself ta blame." ut Vain Repetition. It seems rather discouraging to talk about the latest fsaKhins when Hlgnnr Masao, the famous Hal lan archaeologist, has Just announced that there ta nothing new under the sun of fashion. This gentleman has taken the wind out of ery of the finest sort and festooned scallops worked by hand ar smarter than luce unless It be of a very expensive kind. Flounces of exquisitely sheer spotted muslin on these skirls are fascinating, especially when of some dainty color, yellow being the moat approved of Dame Fashion at present. The latest Innovation and one of which no physician or rven the most austere dress "rationalist" ran disapprove ta the whfUebonetaM curvet. Thta invention to the delight of every woman who prides henslf on her slim, graceful figure and which she has been until now prevented from showing off to the very best advantage In up to date clothes. The wbalebonelea corset marks sn epoch In ths evolution of drees, for unlike any of Its predecessor It combines elegance with hygiene and comfort. Ny own experience has been that so called rational cprseis have been the most Irrational of all. for they deform the figure both In reality and In appesranre. But now we have at last our sartorial sails by having discovered that 4.WM years sgu ths Indies of Mycenae wore hats that in all essentials were duplicate of those we are wearing this summer. This same learned authority also tells us that It was as early ss the sixth eentuiy that Francs assumed the role of dictator of fashion, a position she has never relinquished..- We are further informed that all the arts, even that of dm, ran he traced back" to (he Chinese or Japanese tnfluenee. The rostumeo of the Frenchwomen even at an early dnta showed evidences, though In a lew marked degree, ef the Japanese Idea. It only goes ts show that nothing to per, manent hut change. Another old slyle, young In comparison. though, with tha oriental influence. Is thut of the crinoline, whirh In B. C. our notions of day flourished long, flowing feminine draperies and loose, shapeless garments There is little chance of tills outlandish mode being adopled by ua In this day of overcrowding. How could w clothe ourselves in crinoline and at the same time travel In the Metropolitan or even exist In a small npnrtinent here In the Ville Luminiere? , No, the things ime possible. The crinoline Idea did cause a little flurry of excitement when an elegante sppeared the other day at a Futeaux fete In a flounced skirt that mors Hum suggested the old bouffant effects. I do net think that a genuine crinoline was worn wlththc costume in question, hut certainly the skirt was mounted on especially constructed petticoats. The White Petticoat Tyranny. Apropos of pettlcoata nothing that la not easily soiled and as perishable as Consepassible to smart nowaday. quently only white lawn pcttlint are considered the thing. English embrold- - KISSUUXER KOUlUmro ing a skirt commence at the top. Hold THE GLASS OF FASHION. the gored edged toward you when hastTiny plncneblnns made to represent green ribbon for hanging will he a ing. flowers are pretty and are a means of prtstty addition ta u There appears to bo some controgirl's room. using up scraps of silk And velvet Linings of puur quality pull arkew versy about the wearing of hatpins Thistles can lie made by cutting pur- and cannot be mode to fit well. If tbs Borne say that none should he visible ple shades of floss silk Into short dress goods to easily raveled, overcast at all. bin. on the Other hand, the most HOSES WO EH edging and heading run with n colored ribbon or with fine tucking alternating with Insertion, the ends of the pincushions being tied with rlblxms, the came finish being seen at the top of tile holder. Glove and handkerchief boxes covbulb Into the edges an soon as tlie pieces are cut. exqutsita lengths and setting them are seen In colors to ered in linen and filet lace are decidcovered reiCn with shaped ptores green if ful Lasting results In straight lone with l.i- dress and wrought gold. edly summery looking and will be used ve.. which hold plus. Green silk wire seams: never pin seams for ecu Ing. Hut pin ,h'Mi r fashioned from lung n gnud deal in r lace of the heavier vaform nr five and the four stems, ftaste tlie seams from the witlal line up glash tubes are decidedly pretty ornalu.iy rieties. Though expensive bought in of ikate blossoms tied wltu a bow of and from the waist line down. In batt ments w lii-- covered with Valenciennes ih stores, any such receptacles ran IN - n can give. What we have needed was a corset which respected health, nature and art, and tha busy dress reformers must now look elsewhere for complaint gowns and princess frocks. It will. If. since this blessing has appeared In the necessary, disguise embonpoint or any new model. other fault, while accentuating the good Same Modish Jowolry. points of a figure. Ths artificially acIn an Important shop In the Boulequired small waist ia quits outside the realms of osthctlclsm, but the blouse vard des Italians tha whole window ta and the tailor mad dree, which to a devoted to a display of black Jewelry. sine qua non in m ode rn life, demand Paris seems suddenly stricken .with a foundation which a gooid corset a Ion passion for these somber gimaments, and they are certainly very effective worn with a black gown of thin, gausy stuff. One does net have to be even.iu second mourning to wear ths black ornament with propriety, the only point Insisted upon being that they appear In company with a black costume. 80 great an Influence has the Jewelry lu the up to date toilet that modistes are building up whole creations around a necklao tff odd design or a set of belt' and corsage ornaments. And these jewels are not always of the first water, anything that to unique being more In vogue than the merely expensive. In connection with the Parisian touch of black the last cry to a hand of noli' around the hem of a light frock that to to see service on the lawn. An air of extreme smartness to added if above this band of black there la a second one of lace or embroidery, hut to bo In keeping the black touch muat bo repeated on the bodice. Here In Paris ws have gone "daffy over peach pink tints this summer, and a lovely peach pink voile designed far chateau wear has a. hand of black taffeta on the skirt, and above It a hand of heavy cream lace. The little coat wrap' to of black taffeta embroidered with U France rosea and finished with Dresden button on which are painted half open rosebuds. The chatelaine of the chateau will wear with this frocl a hat of cream colored chip lined with Mark taffeta The big crown Is of black dotted tulle, and a hunch of La France cores cuddles up comfortably at one side of the crown. The parasol to of peach pink taffeta, and tha gloves are of long Mack suede. 1 A Practical Gown. As I have Just described a gown fit only for the disgustingly rich, to make amends here's a hint for ths oppressively poor, that last and saddest of all estates. The frock to of the much exploited Jumper cult, but It has Its reason for so being. Inasmuch as this style to peculiarly favorable to remnant manipulation. You know that under the Jumper bead come the suspender, bib and pinafore styles For this economical dress I am going to uso a remnant of cherked mauve and white ailk. There ta only enough material for, the PARIS. skirt, which to plaited, but by dint f dose cutting sufficient material can b saved from the gores for the skeletal waist. The bodice to of the suspender type, falling broad over the shoulders and tapering to tbs belt. Bands ef plain mauve silk are used with a finish of tiny silver braid. The suspenders an held together from below the square lingerie yoke with narrow straps of mauve silk finished with a small bow In the center, from which point daflgle tassels of silver. The deep girdle to of mauve ailk fastened with a dull silver buckle, a relic, by the way, of old daya CATHERINE TALBOT. be made nt home.- candy and glove boxes coming In for the foundation. When sewing the hooks and eyes on n belt place a hook ' of an inch back from the right edge of the bottom of the belt. Bew an eye with the pnint touching the seam that Joins ths fly to the skirt. Put another eye directly on the end of this side of the belt and a hook on the opposite side to correspond. A hanging heart shaped pincushion ta two parts on a piece of paper, measure, the size required and pin the parts cn. . If .the waist to too long the parts of the pattern a re simply lapped ovvr a little above the waist line until the required length is obtained. Merited and unmarried women of tne republic of Colombia are distinguished In by their mode of wearing flowers on their hair. The former wear them the right side and the totter on the left. a corset which adheres to tha natural lines of tha body while proving an absolutely sufficient support1 for ths blouses and ths tight fitting tailored - one-eigh- th a novelty. It 1s entirely white, defrom flue handkerchief linen, the upper side embroidered with a monogram or a Spray of flowers perhaps both, and edged all around with A frill of the linen rut into sharp points and then buttonholed in shallow scallops. Long ribbons tied into a bow form hanging strips. It a waist is found to be too short cut the paper pattern in two a little above the waist lino. Then lay tbo veloped . - WANING OF COLORED SHOE FAD. Men can get along comfortably In summer resorts where the roads are either muddy or with a foot of dust, for they can turn up their trousers and trudge along. A giri who waa watching several men swinging along a dusty read the other day remarked, "It those trousers were turned up much higher, they would be knickerbockers, wouldn't they?" But had roads are trying fer women with trailing skirts and dainty footwear and probably are responsible for the dying out of the colored shoe fad. Women complain that there to no room on the earth for those who like walking any more, for automoMIists don't mind in the least whether they splash freshly laundered skirts with mud or shower them with dust. As Mrs. Reginald Vanderbilt remarked t one Newport sufferer, "I am not responsible for the condition of the street, and this to the attitude of most of those who ride In cars. On giri who was visiting a country place the other day was splashed by an an to, and as her trunk had not arrived she had t stay Indoors until the garment could b cleaned. That waa vexatious, as As was obliged to miss a charming lawtt party, . - It Is SETS TO MATCH. a charming conceit to have ones on handbag match the buttons need one's gown, and there are sets, consisting of neck chain and locket, buttons and metal wrtatbaga, that come to be worn together. A bracelet to match is added, and the set to charmingly unique and dainty. VOGUE OF THE SASH. Boshes are favored for both day and reevening wear, and in one case this vival to illustrated by means of floating ends of coral net which. fall In empire style from between the shoulder ef the gown. In another Instance a quaint blue sash, patterned with moss rosebuds, Is worn In the old approved style-ThiIs also-seeIn a Mack stain sash, worn with a striped tussore gown. s . |