OCR Text |
Show " - 7r ' - - r " precise - $X . -- - " -- r ''r rt rir.-; s'r nmmmttr? . ? 1 T11K i- SrXDAY STANDARD: OfiDEN. I TAII. Jl SI NPAY. LV 21, 1007. Tire- - of cleverly has a pule pink lining and ts trimtiitne are of med wun gray tuUs and gray feathers. ih.y are mounted A great many br.ght blue gowns are v nk bring worn in Paris now. one uf the :i lichrate lint of of the roa- - u.-rn; r, ; the color :.i features of white bluiub-- s Is a s arf of the name material as the skirt lUI'l1. W.ih .in all hlurk coe'uiiie. of c iurae, put csivlesaiy axuund the coliar end the LU.'k p. the correct thing. knotted louseiy. It usually mads of lib.-rtsatin. Cretonnw coats, whk.h Very . .. Art s jmr iff the n are. but nah'j n!uh.T am ng the host of were discussed In this column recently, del: a; Liuicd carried with wore wmuug the conspicuous novelties loi.'i-.-in the stternuon. at Paris races. (Ins saen recently hod coeiuiii.1 The:-- .' puniKOie come ip the palest. a ground of pale gray patterned with diii'.riet ohades uf pink, blue, green roses and was wora over a gray moua-Seldo sole gowa. Another, with a and tul.ow. auJ are ciubividured in suit coi.K-eiika They have hematltched green ground, wrrompanied a thin Flowers cut from creedges und lace insets sod are profusely green gown. trim med with tiny pinked or si itched tonne and appiiqued on to aUk or other ruffles or edged wlih chiffon trillings foundations are trimming gowns, coats Slid ru. hlng. Home of these afternoon parasols otc. parasol are as exquisite and dainty as Profitable ts Know. s hothouse flower. If a skirt Is wide around ths bottom Artificial Strawberries. and I long enough to touch, as so Is lieu of the ubiquitous cherry, many of the faahionoMo afternoon which has held indispuied sway fur so tailor gow n are now mods then tho loug sisl which Is still to bo seen In skirt can bo lifted very daintily and rainbow colorings, tha tmmhnse garden gracefully by gathering tho bock folds la tha left hand a little to one aide and strawberry, as well as Ihs llttlo mountain variety, is about te oust It from as far dumn tha length of tho skirt oa the place of honor, and wreath of them the hand naturally falls When It ta eaeirrle the erowas at tha new hala lifted tho hand should be drawn slighteometlmi strawberrlea and flowera bely upward and forward. Tho front part ing equally divided, la maay cases na- of tho skirt ts caught lightly la tbs ture la travestied without compunction right hand and drawn np straight It should never bo clutched as if there by ths milliners of tuday, nnd strawberries of all colors are to be seen, on were dsager that it might escape. ss sn alternative, the entire garniture Clutching will wrinkle the material and is reproduced In pure white or black. make a woman look a k word. A light but firm grasp of tho flagon will servo The latter en a colored hat la exceedNow to raise tbo skirt sufficiently. ingly effective, the fruit being simulated by Jd beads and the leaves cut that women wear short walking skirts eut of black velvet and veined with altogether oa tho street there Is no necessity for them to hold their skirts gold. up for any long period. They are liftDark Disuses. ed at rroaoings whea ascending and The dark toned separata blouse la duorendlng stairs gotttng in nnd out of net without fsvor in the summer's carriages and In crowded lobbies ns fashions. There are many times when taumata or rooms auch a waist Is better adapted to the Do Jeuy Blus . occasloa than the white lingerie or silk A shads of blue that has many folblouse. The newest of these are of dark toned chiffon mounted ever white lowers Is that known as bleu ds Jouy. or some light colored silk. !lal and It Is boautlful la tolla and linen and many of Ihs vests of talbn fancy silk linings are used. TLs check- fashions msdos It Is sn imitation at the old di ed and ainpcd lining are very effecago nesg Ver--. tive when draped with a transparent Jouy made centuries chiffon or net. Hirlped silk and striped sallies which could not bo duplicate chiffon make one very charming waist anywhere rise la tfie world, and whet In which a plaid effect la created by this fact became known It was at one court and for a century using ths two materials on opposite adopted ata largo part of tho decora- ways of ths goods. . For Inala nee. ths rranpoMHl men and women. It was of both tiun on outer while Is cut tha silk ths emss, wore cermaterial a satin striiied chiffon, la cut afterward provedIn that there tho wator of IJu tain qualities on the lengthwise. I resins around Voraalllea that had tin Nat Useless. result of giving n rich shad to dyuf Discarded whits shirt waists are not manufactured la tha vicinity. the useless articles they first appear. Tho Underskirts. On with a pretty front may be cut Tha up to date aklrt calls for a pettf out la neck and arms for a curvet cover. A child's gulmpe or a Isdy'i coat, most carefully eut and fitted. this foundation petticoat Is made can cbomlaetto may also bo cut from III It will spoil tho effect of tho art lussly, haudsumo while of waists, portions turnover collars are easily obtained and clinging skirt draped over tt. ofThn th from embroidered fronts. The edges are few fashionable materials are bound around with Moa folds or season that are not aoft and rlinglni narrow braid. A plain shirt waist and however full of folds tho aklrt nag bo t must cling around tho hips an forma a good foundation for a chemise It of sheer material, as It aids la fall In stipple folds not too widely flsr. Ing. One of ths lightweight salln holding (hat decidedly Inclined lo was Bilks makes s satisfactory foundor article la place. The sleeves and neck are rut out, the armholes bound dation (ipttlcost. Many prefer a supple which yet has body enough to and ths chemisette lit'krd Into posi- satin ' tion. If dreliyd the tall portion may wear well. kind the of Chiffon taffeta nonrustHng bo rut away Just above. ths waist lino, however, to ba the popular doing away with extra bulk at that continues, rllk with ths average dressmakpoint. A narrow bom will anewer aa lining er and can of course be bought in passa finish. ably good quality foe leva money than Recant Novel tie. la asked for any of tho other alike suit-elfor the purpose, A lowly gown of thick stool colored Thla underskirt must fit with absolute pongee has a skirt uiada with Innumerable pin tucks. The hem has a band smoothness over the hips and abdomen, of net elaborately braided In the Creek flaring gradually below, but not reachkey imt tern. A similar bund tilma the ing an extravagant wMth. Leas fluffy nsrk and outlines tha yok and tha kiruffling and trimming are set upon ths Tho underuler res are boitmn of tlie petticoat than were used mono sleeves. . of lbs same braldsd, not Tha gray hat a season or two pgui 3: ,.,r th-- sr Thu gi:t. anj i . Iter .r o.tr : it .' or i wry of s i sum-luvi- ua-que- J I V. 0 . if tffe at tJ' d a At at at at ct W. - ... r ' ! s. - g.C 4''. 'I , 'wmZ- - - . v btgsatlff nV f. v- ;; j i: afcnl - - . v. t-- . J vfc5Cr,f V" . . '1'V' i i ; : - :r.--- .V V-'- . -- -- . f 5 "Vjh .? A CAMMING t I at IB frequently thla lining la In tha tame color as ihs hat the Rrench are uaiug it In a cent casting oolur. of silk or mousseline. If the heavy silk is used this faring la put on plain, but with the finer silks and transparent mousscllnes having tasted this delight, no arbitrary und chiffon the mat or ini is shirred over cord at the edge. A very decree of La Mode will restrain her. a With the other woman rlctured here- smart hut of this type seen In one of with the case seems to be entirely dif- the most exclusive shops recently ferent. Isn't the exquisite lace Jacket was of a line white chip with under-briwith lie artistic long sleeves a fit recfacing of very soft white satin shirred to within an Inch of the edge ompense for any shin In the fashion? of the brim. On the left side of Now Millinery Not a the crown were posd two huge while X very new Idea in millinery la the roses with green Pillage, and around underbrim fsclng oF lining. While very (he proven overlapping each other wore art certain indistinct outdoor use of short sleeved garments will not survive the summer. The Jolly girl In the llluxtratiun. Iiowever, will not readily deny herself the' exhilarating sport of facing the stilt sea broese with arms bared to the elbow. Once liffna which tha approach of the . lone aleeve. This la to be de )( tected especially In picturesque sum- -' aier wrap. Bhort sleeves have been In vofue f'r a much limcer tlipe than la luual with thls'inuet fluctuating article at wonian's rostume, and It Is not un- -. likely that the first days at autumn alii wit nee a remarkably speedy return to the lonr arm covering;. The newest sleeves put on summer wraps am tranxition affairs, merely drapery slmulatlnx a Ions, loose sleeve In many : eases. But it Is almost certain that the .. i THERB JW t . m i be-It- ui crown. ' v5, ,' cvmc orLACC AND BIBMN. large white velvet I raves, which form sort of a crown banding, the leaves lg placed rather precisely. The ban-disIn tha back was trimmed with loop of wide wtiite satin ribbon. Hi 111 another of black chip showed the facing of deep plum colored silk, while the trimming consisted of pink ribbon on the bumieau and shaded pink roses on ths fei f i ttSt&JtlSUSmt A j; v Ms ;'..1 iv. ;,: :r M W in J ' The Indispensable Parasol. With the simple linen costumes so much worn In the mornings pongee end linen coaching pamsols are much need. A few of these sire decorated with a little enibiYridriPf but. as a rul they are on the same lsss as are the taffeta. Very great favorites are the white coaching parasola, which come In taffeta, pongee and butcher's linen. Most of tlieae are simply mounted, but a few have gtlt frames. Very ornate tinea, loaded with handwork and lace lnsts and having handles of white wood with gold or sliver or rn oilier-o- f. pearl tips or tircsden tips, offset by ellkea handles, coma to accuinpany hand embroidered and lace trimmed lingerie frocks. Then there are the gorgeous creations of white chiffon, voluminously frilled and ruffled, or of embroidered filet., bebe Irish or Italian eometlraee I ' . If; PARIS, . e us WHAT THE can no longer be called empire. - To my mind the present fashion is a great over the original empire, fur It gives a very pretty and definite Idea of a waist, which was entirety nbsciit In the old empire. Although people talk about ths beautiful fashions of the pr.st, there never was anything more charming than the garments made right now. Nothing can exceed the charm of a white embroidered rrepe de rhine f(ock rat en prince se, the embossed embroidery coming 'all the way up the skirt and on to the bodice. This la finished at the neck with a, little soft point lace and cascaded frills of the same fall below the elbow from the short sleeve, whliqsroniid the hem to beautiful silken fringe. To wear with this Is an old fashioned shawl made Into a rape, heavily embroidered and edged with the fringe. The toilet Is completed with a white hat In crinoline, tho brim lined with tulle and trimmed with a beautiful cluster of white d'Al-aneo- n on bo-lo- effect. Tha Newest Delta. The newest belt la made of leather of one color and striped with leather of another color, and this looks Its be with a white foundation nnd striped In black. But elastic belts continue popular, no doubt, by reason of their adaptaand belts of ribbon either bility, buckled or held with embroidered buttons or bonks, are particularly becoming to the mail waist. Much favor to till being shown to the ribbon belt which Is made In one with oversleeves Tha Useful Dust Cloak. It la now proper to speak briefly of tha dust cloak. The dust cloak, so called, seems lo have disappeared from the wardrobe of the smart woman. For traveling by rail and motor we now have a quite plain king sine pa or linen coat, very nattily cut apd well made. The ideal outing wrap, however, to quite a different garment. It is both practical fend beautiful. For this tussore to first choice and ths modified kimono shape to In great favor. Beautiful Indeed ts one of these dust rants in mauve tussore embroidered In purple wistaria, lined with' pink taffeta and furnished with fringe and taerel of pink and purple. Quite as fetching Is a dainty empire coat In white tussore, ppibitrideml In heavy white flowers with a touch of black velvet about the collar. Some Midsummer Hate. Muslin and net ribbon trimmed hata are asserting their right to consideration, and the manufacturers have devised many novelties In hata of linen, these being destined to take the plsce of the panama, and assuming equally nondescript shapes, shapes fchich lend themselves to Individual Influence and will appear smiling and even becoming when the crown ta bunrhed Into a hollow and the brim Irregularly convolved. The linen hate with stitched brim end stitched croyn are trimmed with scarf of crepe de chine or soft silk, the ends being embroidered and fringed. . Another novelty la the alpaca hat but somehow alpaca does not seem to me to befa suitable fabric for a bat, and I rather resent its Intrusion in the world of millinery- - But the most popular of all simple hata to that of crinoline or white rice straw, which bears upon II14 SHOPPER Oblong pincushions of daintily embroidered linens are exceedingly polu-- r tills season and, fortunately for wo-hwith limited Incomes, are not dlffl-bu- lt to make. . , Cretonne covered waste paper baskets w In most colorings bto year, and, withdelightful a view to packing Ior tranporting to temporary homes, V? invariably made to fold, tha four ues being constructed separately, Ahen iiltc-iitln- V SEES. sewn to (be square forming the bottom. Holes are punched In the edges Of the aides to allow of ribbons being passed through, which tie snd so form the bosket. The smell pillows employed for day use iii ted rooms are extremely dainty snd are seen la both oblong and square shaped, in; former bring ths more favored. .These are covered with slips of sheerest lawn, lightly, embroidered SXAST BLOUSES FROM TEE BUS DE'LA PAIX. the English tan that to receiving favor, hut a dark golden brow n. a color much more artistic and more durable than lla predecessor, tho rad tan. Sensible laced boots of glossed kid ra reen on children of all ages and occasions save tho are. worn for all ' very dressiest. Thera are trim oxfords also In this golden brown leather. Patent leather ta used mostly in loy scce-sorlII ferms-o- f that It Is pumps 'that may be for boys or girls 4ifl not to be wondered at that we find It and that are In shape and style almost very prominent In footwear. It Is not exactly like a man's dancing pump. In satin stitch or shadow embroidery and bordered with three Inch frills, hemqtltched or scalloped, ths pillow showing a white or a colored covering under the slip. Not Infrequently the smell boy or girl wear a belt for the Russian Mouse that matches Ms or her golden brown shoe. : Brown has bad such s great run In . es save, of course, for the spring heel with which all properly built Juvenile shoo are equ'ppcd. A rule that seems to be followed now In choosing Juvenile footgear ts white kid er patent leather for dressy wear and golden .brown kid for every day tire. While kid to almost Invariably seen In button boot, and these, of course, are for the small girl rather than the small hoy. Leggings fur tramping cross country and through mountainous districts : i , . I,- - ir. i Iii 1i T , J V . ds . roeeq, i fla-leh- ed crown doubto monster bowa of hemmed 1 1 have met one hat of thla description, II only In their adjustment, for no IBs are many now who disregard the edict I f fashion which lurisis that U shall be glace atlk, wlih Huge plaited end cov- - I I am certain I have met a doxen dur-- I women seem to be of .Hit somea opinion hat on worn lislf way down (be bark of Ihs ering the crown and. falling about an 1 Ing itff lust morning's walk in the Bole, as to the proper position of Inch beyond the brim at tha hack. If and they are all exactly alike, differing the head. I gladly observe that there nnk, ... .... ; I am entirely delighted with the sim... y ... ple linen soil lawn frocks hand or bearing lucks, rthlidt with the wide sleeves end the slightly full liod'ce over hlnurra-e- f white, are usurpof the multitude. .Also ing ifc the luti rt linen lawn shirt watot that I have seen gives me roneidnrable satisfaction. wlih multitudinous tucks on cither shoulder and the front portion w the bust embroidered with a thick design of fuchsias. This I have met worn with a plain white serge skirt and a loosely 'hanging white serge coat, crowned with a hat of bright blue, trimmed on on aide with a large rosette of smoko gray satin, whlla a flowing feather of the him tons assert ed itself dowrj, the ijrim on, tha other side and a blue parasol completed the . f u i! K I SUMMER FASHION IDEAS FROM PARISIAN SOURCES; THE IRISH LACE GOWN IS THE FAD OF THE MOMENT July I. Feminine at tha present moment Is conclusively for tho diaphanous fabric, tha feathered hat and tha lace decoration. (I peaking of. lace reminds me that ail Paris la daft over Irish lace. Thla la not necooaarlly tho exquisite den telle manufactured In the Emerald Iale, but quite as likely to be the very cleverly fashioned substitute mads by French workers. There Is no doubt that Paris Is now making Irish Iocs In large quantities and Irish lace, too, of a very an, perior quality. Tha French makera put leea dressing into the cotton and the product la at once soft and thick. Tha patterns are more varied and shall I ay it T more artistic than the other. Tho French article Is also cheaper than tha lace made In Ireland.' The latest med el gowns of Irish lace-arvery charming Indeed, especially those which hare lonea lace coats and kirta which lit tightly around tig hips and flow outward. For my part I have a decided preference for the loose coat and the thin blouse which Is mode entirely of lace and more particularly would I recommend It to the woman who la inclined to assume generous proportions. Tha saddest feature In connection with the matter la that the gown of Irish lace, whether from the Emerald tale or from Paris only, la quite beyond raach of most of us. We iduat content ourselves with dresses of less pre-dodenteUes or with those of lawn and muslin. Fortunately these attainable fabrics were never prettier, especially. aa some one has observed rather pertinently, when they happen to ba cotton voiles." These Inst grow In number and Improve In quality every Jbiy, whlli they remain agreeably with-l- a the grasp of the most limited Income. They offer Infinite variety, too, for they disport themselves gayly In tripes, check, spots and flowered patterns the stripes being most in favor at tba present moment. Gainsborough and Remnay. Dome of the most exclusive Parisian couturieres hare thla season borrowed Ideas from pictures in tha British National gallery. Of course these creations ere modified 'to suit modern requirements. Nothing can ba prettier that the Gainsborough frock In whits muslin, with Its tucker. of White net nm through with Romney blue ribbon, which, by the way, la not one of the fashionable blues of ths seasons. Ths mng. high walsted frocks carried out In quaint pattern in Liberty satin are extremely chic provided tha band la placed in a manner becoming to the wearer. The trend of the mode la toward the abort walsted effect hut thla 1 sod braces of ribbon, these braces being either frilled or plain, made of the ribbon, treated simply or made of piece silk adorned srlth a trellis of silk, the best effect being gained by some dark ribbon which matches tha aklrt, while the blouse with which there are worn to of line white soft llwn. Far Dull Summer Days. But In (he midst of airy. taty. summery muslins we practical folks must have romethlng ready In the way of a smart tailor mads for the dull days that sometimes spoil an outdoor function. Now the summer tailor made to a more difficult problem than the whiter one. I fancy we have tired somewhat of the cheaper striped rummer rubrics, which were so charming st the beginning of the season, but I wish to speak particularly of the very wide striped alpacas in curious colors snd shot effects I do not know that the material la a true alpaca, but rather I imagine a coma silky promise between an alpora of texture and a cottony stuff in reality I believe it ta a form of tussore, very costly snd extremely effective, snd even though we may be somewhat tired of stripes, I cannot refrain from mentioning some beautiful examples In thta stuff. For example, a faint fawn and white stripe In thla tussore-alpa(for I know of ho better name) is made with a plaited aklrt. Just b aring the ground ull round and air.srt Mile cutaway coat with a high waiiiiu.l uppeironce at the back, accent uatwl by Lr.liJa of strapping and aclf cclurtil bra Ida, with beautiful wolxictjoi. of embroidered limn In hlue and gray. 7M 1' is worn with little white bullale, hand embroidered shirt nnd tlie smartest brown leghorn hat trimmed with a great bunch o! wheat ears and block popples, raised bandeau d slightly off the heed by block tulle. And yel another tailor msdd worthy of not la In rough gray lussort cloth, with a cutaway, tight fitting coot nnd sleeves1 finishing Just above ths waist This is embroidered in a sell colored raised design Outlined with strappings of taffetas In the him shade. It Is finished with the neatesl snd plainest collar and revere of velvet In1 the asms shade, with a perfectly plain aklrt almply finished with twa strapped bands Surmounting this costume la a gray hat trimmed with a Mg whlla bird and paradise plume. The Up to Date Dleuee. The exploitation of fine lawn, hand embroidery and beautiful makes of lace ran be, perhaps, beat appreciated by s study of the present day blouse, and charming Indeed are many of there garments. There to or should bo a great fundamental difference between tho . Moure and the shirt, for the latter In Its correct Interpretation la a tailor made, manly cut garment In allk and wool t mixtures, Ceylon flannels snd linens to be worn 'with tweed coats snd skirts, whereas ths blouoe to a far mere ethereal garment, with n distinct cachet of femininity. The shirt for country wear In silk and linen to usually made with a separate high linen turn over collar, and this does not come into the category of the blouse. Delightful for summer wear are the dainty little Parisian lawn shirts, very almply made with Utile plaited frills and embroidered In- sertlons down tho front, with high transparent collars edged with Valenciennes tore, snd sleeves, ending below the elbow, finished to match the collar. Then there la the linen openwork hlrt In all white, and this to very popular at tha moment, with the yoke and shoulder cut In one, giving something of tha kimono effort, but beautifully fitted and very becoming. There linen broderle anglais shirts wash admirably, and nothing looks more . charming oa a hot summers day. Again, wo hare ths clear muslin ahlrt, with Valenciennes Insertions, which to always dainty and popular and perhaps a Utile more closely silled to tha Blouse than tho lawn shirt. CATHERINE TALBOT. ca . they had last owing to the very general fashion for golden brown kid. Sideboard and Ubiectoths are shown bruises and scratches when running through underbruah and Incidentally of atln dainaake, worked In the embroidery. , save the stockings and clothing. A very odd and attractive paper Randal for uae at the seashore and in thn country are popular for children weight Is a bronze lizard, with Its tail because they are cool and give the feet curled around In a ring. Such beautiful cluny lace acts are auch freedom, allowing the tore and shown with chemlxettes, yoke and half sole to rest fiat on the leather. White canvas slippers, etc- - continue sleeves. They ere very attractive, new In fat or, although they .will not hove end wear 0 well tiiut they are worth anything like the vogue this year that .the price paid for them. are servli-eaM- e f. sl for small girls and boys, for they protect tho legs from Wal-lachl- an 1 ii 1 |