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Show SUNDAY MORNING THE EXAMINED, NOVEMBER 1901. fi, n wl cirr .lur ekirt on whicn are bands of s.'i.m-tjff.-tr.bbon put on to form loom The coat of meaium length to tr.imoe.l ) braid and there la a WiJHii'.Mt cf bis ere cloih braided in In rharp contrast to this to a Hewn te check, taffeta and knit Jacket taffeta. Ths embroidered d ,v cp street Jjoians tlx 1.5 ea 50 may elaborate A or and laraps citlxcr le ueru simple Ekhorslions of the MiJe. r Th rn.iKt el.ibiraie roetumas that are cuii4 t iii.ir utsdo but wb.?b la reality r not t.nijr ma.l ut all. as It to quits establisli-niek- -r (M!iible f.ir any d r to turn ..;b trimmed wi:h velvet and for. Th very finest quality of cloth is uel. and the whole stylo of the dress is niu.-- mure un the order of mad.-- , up in tuffela or what Is velv.q. liere is wen ihc full skirt in all lie with and stiirringv. slruight glory, binds of velvet edged with fur and a v1-jv- et coat of th short. f iniasMr orier with sleeve and rather enaprleas front. It jli.g i nu ig!it in three d tya of a gown of this to extr.ivag.ine with leal sahl. or. if h lion-the with for th gray i jehiin-hiior eiinlnc. Th Jacket inat to titling and has unite the appearance jttaht .of a dm waist la a fgvonte m.i lel. This jdejlgn ahuaa ons of the lateai frraks of fabnm lb having th luck uf tha coat shirred througb iha can' re. It liua straignt sat pic-rand fronts draped across or Ta'-Ui- nt tb-.-- no :or gr'u-r.i.i- y rot-din- ov KTIL bow all th winter fashions jj.ve been io Intricate and e!abo-wJ- rt rate that to bunt for a atniple all the ullor mads gown among like bewildering style, ha beenneedle Ijok'ng up ths proverbial In the haystack. But In fashions It pays to play note .ban anything else now there are no and rare. ..waiting lid of moot attractlva models on much Unas turned out more eeveiely nimplo - u quite a little d!i'mv below tta at the front er.d sio,, but almost touching the waist lire at tlte back. Tne shirring only eateud aa f.u- ae Hie front breadth on eihr shic. Thu front breotn shirring : e - very narrow at the top and wmena toward the foot. Thera la nothing eaiecially new in this atylw of skirt. It miy be aaid, but it ia tht perfection of 111 and the way In which me ktrt la hung that make auch a lot of idlfftrence. All ak.r a are murh wider, and day. or th et the fullness must not be allotted to long wrap, auch a feature JEmt I ilikns, has been .hown in lacs. come now But 7 velvet and chiffon. In doth enchanting styles severe l:n-t- wraps. he are built on quite rows of machine stitching. Inly EKw braid, or, In many instances, no collar and Hrumii'K at all save that the are of fur. Tha double cape cloth ,, "I I an extremely graceful garment, and the lines this year are better than the ever before. It Is made In red. blue, vel-- 1 1IShtet tan. gray or while, with midwinter war or fur collar, For the there are full sleeves. but for autumnwith-, heavy sufficiently ia considered round . .iccves tha second cape coining cover the o far In front as to entirely sleeve of the waist. name la and their Ail toe new colors, r a ; Uaion this winter, am found In these A. wraps, and so many dllfareut shades of colors as to giva the impression that aoma For V A- Mw rainbow haq been discovered. of number colors In tha original not auraly . .nJhitherto known to the public has such exquisite coloring been seen. The very light a very champagne color, the Ivory white, pals yellow and, among tha new shades, alL smartest of If tbs are, possible, blue, And then a contrast of color Is found possible in the collar; for Instance, with a cloak of champagne color la a pals blue doth or velvet collar, or with a red cloak' a collar of deeper velvet or of black. An attempt has been mads to bava this style of cloak muoh mnro elaborate In design N1 tnaa was at flrat Intended. It la lined with satin, the fronts ars faced with a heavier A embroidered. atln or velvet or am most elaborate garment ia turned out and th original keynote of simplicity ia unfortunately soon done away with. Short Skirts for Morning. For morning wear them la nothing aa iL'S-j-m&m- . smut aa the tailor mads suit, tha skirt and tha short enough to clear ground, sillier a short Jacket or long coat of tits same material. Tha practical use of tha short skirt has been so wall demonstrated that K might be thought no woman would tvtr wear a a treat gown made with a long aae; but If' tha truth be told tha malorlty f women do not look well la short skirls. Besides this, It la extremely difficult to Snd a tailor who will make a satisfactory short one, so that even with this demand for simple tailor made styles there are no snd of gowns turned out with kmc skirts. Tha Meal eldrt for a tailor sows anouid hut dear the ground, fit wall around tha hips and hack, and be so well buns tnat it makes tha wearer look slander. Thu effect can he secured, first, by Us being well hung, and, second, by the way in which the trimming la placed on the skirt. Oddly enough, a full skirt often makes a woman look more slander than a narrow, tight Stung one, but it requires the skill of an artist in this business to secure such a result All skirtd flare tremendosly around tbs foot the effect bailiff gained by ths material being put In pieata-snu- U plests between tne large ones, or by a wide faalened in loom fold, wide with to give long shoulder seams arrai exsggwralej wldlh to me shoulders. Them ar smarter than Hi drooping sleeves and are finished at th wrist with pleated ruffles uf the cloih or velvet. Cutly after I ho eya become trained do the coatumra hav at all th ibsired smart look. Til color In there gowns, aa well aa In the oilier, makes a kit of In the a ppi a run in. Ju.t how to recur the rniuisii rontrsi of orung. huff, ywiiow. blue, red or gr,en la a most . undi-i'ldittleulr iking, but fiien there is a tremendous this nbiier la trimlirald and are in b had with all ming. the must rxiulrilte uf coloring and wid-- i enough to give the walaliusl effect. Ciutn and velvet combined gives good colorings, nd It to unite pussilil to buv ? th velvet eual ur trimming two or three alludes dceir Hun Hi skirt, and in this way bring out a belter color. Til touch of wliil at tli throat ho been found to make almost any color becoming, and whit wslsta will sl.ll bo worn under coats not till year, so that if tli while Into th tight fitting Jackal, then it run nc ren in the collar uf 111 waist Itself. Policy buttons are a great feature tha new gowns of thin aasll and olien ms I eh the ahnda uf th walrt-eiMi- t. to hav It to not thought any rnlnr on a skirt- - and yet mnriy pcopl Ilk a trimmed skirt, so Uain Fashion h. Unwed that this relissll tw a mere chotc to b decided by ludividual tasl lone. Bright Colon on Jackrts. Or. tl,a front ut tli coat. In th bolt and on lit sleeve, must cum th touches of culiir, Black braid un the collar and cuffs, the collar and ruffa belug of a much lighter shad than th gown. Is perhaps not a new faehlun, but It is un that to Iwaya satisfactory and which this yai very popular. Either cloth or velvet braided with black or any color with gold ur silver makes up well and to not th reach of everybody, so that tha plain black gown or any cloth of a dark shad that otherwise would b too sombre can now h mad exceedingly smart In effect. Many an old gown can by there very trimmings b renovated satisfactorily this winter. Figured velvets might not be supposed to require a great deal of trimming, but th fnahloa Is le niak them up moat hiboralrly and trim them with braid or paawmenterle. Braiding on th figured velvet I not speclHlly smart, and In fact s a waste of tlm and energy, aa th nap ot Ut velvet so pfun hides Hi g-- d in : ( I nc Sit 1 i - J ' ot-o- ref qin-stlo- t braid. Th tailor mad velvet suit. If they are trimmed with braid at all, hava row of hcrculre braid put on to giva tha flat effect, gum of th amartaat gown made up of h new velvets, that looks so much Ilk th baby tomb fur, hav no trim-mlnat alL Th bmt d reread women contend this year, a usual, that tha test of a good figure and a well Inmads sows Is when a woman looks well bolutly plain costumes, Ut beauty of th flgjr and of the malarial showing to th beat UCjq.pr g Interfere with the lines of ths figure. This can h regulated by tho shirring and th pleats, remembering always that there must be a marked Una accentuating tha long waist. The plenta are stitched down poaaibl advantage whan there Is nothing to form bias lines toward tha front of the lo detract from It. Aa yet thlg idea nklrt has ant been ganarally popular, but dor-In- g two of In a A returning faro rite stylo th coming winter It Is sofa to preor three seasons ago. or perhaps, more dict that it will b. only let It be burns to the six ago. years correctly spunking, In mind that there plain clothe are often length coat that la lilted to th noat costly, fur it to far easier to the figure and mails either In long pieces turn out as elaborately trimmed gown The than on that bas ur with the attached hip pieces nothing but almpl darts are hiaher In this, and hava been lines and beauty of malarial, combined fashionable fur aoma time, and there to wMh perfection of cut nod fit, to swoon a long seam from the slintildiv acruea tbe ineiid it and to niako It wotleaablo among slsboroto cosfront that I universally becoming. Those all tha randy and coats are fnatenrd with fancy buttons, can tume with which th dressmaking deas breasted double or be either single or flllai at th present mosired and have velvet collar and cuff. ment. The sleeves are much larger thaa laat year, many in exaggerated leg Of mutton the ODDS AM? UNDS OF FASHION. chapes, giving n aquara appearance to and top that to not alwaya becoming, are used with groat affect this which. In fact, needs modifying In most flpwngte are mud in cloth or year on everything from fans to evening rare. Theaa roats and the girl who has a little Ingeand tho skirt of the frock, cheviot or serge, to elmi nuity can get more result to th square gown, although it should bo short, Theaa coats, inch by doing gold spansl work thaa any long In eonin limtanoes. Whit moire bags of embroidery. while they lit tight to tho figure, must sort and enihruklored la guid thread and spangtas ilwaya have tha straight frontaseffect and fashionable was ths are easily mads, if drawn not curve in at tha waist, up with a gold cord they are Inexpensive aoma fashionable wore when tiny tyla but It la smarter to hava them mounted la Utno ago. This to a fashion Immensely gold, wltn a gold clasp, g paneled belt are smart if carried out correctly, but which . easily mod and spangled net makes an It mads too extreme to never aallefacto.-yfigure too extremely rich looking bodice, it to a pity to accent nt ths with the long urestly. and it totoodifficult an A variation of (ho owentrr that bids fair effect when bulky oat not to give to I MX mv popular la the knitted Norfolk skirt. over full the worn to the coat or gay color Jackets, la white, red, preferred. Velvet did Velveteens. saeques also are a Velveteen and velvet costumes are Knitted dressing this year, and are novelty. They are nsuslly mods of whlto iniong tho smart ext a touch of pink or blue oa tb multi both 00 ,h'! elaborate and the tailor wool, r with borders. Iakmo In form, with made order. Corduroy 1s also a material rolls and sluevce, they ore cosy and warns. The costume. th for emart plain thought ekirt in long aide pleats and with aither-Rich colored erstonnre of a tapestryUk a king rector coat or a Norfolk Jacket effect are used to cover address, rogsg- the correct style. In plain and In figured books, fit edges there la no end to tho different mrnt and laundry list finished with narrow gimp. T& curings! and ths plain velveteens are as j being materials are lined la rowing boxes rilu ,tBt tlsburstely trimmed, A charm-- 1 I samo k or bedroom. for lng gown la golden brown velveteen bas ihree-quart- flounce attached to the body of th skirt ie such g way that the joining U not n. but ia hidden tinder rows of stitching or braid. A charming model, also. Is the aw shirred skirt that has three rows of cr sad From a Rcyal Palate to a her Tork ti . Kind rgarten a Slum - sstab-Bailme- their donkey cart wherever we went, so German birth, snd the question netan urally arises how a German girl, leftown that InIf tha eliildren got tired they could get and ride, orphan at an early age and wllh her way to make In the world, should onm un granaonu-thaIwva the care of the favorite dren of the Queen of England, It was simple enough. Bhe was ona or for protection; and on everything was the alt women, all orphans, to finish a course; at the school In Darmstadt, founded by the- rose, thistle and shamrock Insignia- - At the children s apartments were Grand Duke of Hessen, and a vary V1?0011 Bha vfcis tha only one of the hung and the furniture upholstered In tar-th,:m school. f 'Sato taka a kindergarten course, and af- - tana, and while there the little Prince al25 .cho1 Zi accepting a position aa klndergartne. ways wore ths Highland costume. with bare armed, barefooted, one received "Oh, yea. I must always address the gannented tots from ths street outside, J The of- - children as Prince and Prince. ri- ho cams In Just beesusa the doors ar-i though the wers but four snd three ye un80lt, butit badthebeenGrand old Pea and there was music snd soma one respectively when I first took charge ranged by ths principal of was jo tell them what to play and how to play Duke' a aha whom of them. I alwaya spoke to them In Ger-great wllh a It. Alwaya the first hours there fa'Korita, school, of Ducheas during Grind the through acre as many big circles as the floor space who was tha P "sa Alice, an-- o allowed, and In ths centre of first one Hisaa, ria. of Queen trier daughter circle, then another, a dark haired young u. alike," wU woman led ths song gamea Now (ha "Children are very with a nulle, when Upped about tbs clrsfe with ths tiny, tht klndergartner was not very great (rimy fingers of one of tha little ones asked If the contrast The street urchins. clasped tightly In her, singing as they between princes and would not set went. Now she stopped to give the move-aen- ts little prince and princess of tho aong with her own hands, to met her a dtmen time, a day It was a cut- bare It repented by a hundred palra of un anordscore of the sey, and a deep one every time. When had quantities on wrih the They bshy hands belonging to tbs squatting fig d rather1 she passed through the halls all servants urea In tha circle. And when ths song rnot expnaive toys. bu thW mads fori not In Immediate attendance upon her nmea were over ah brought forth bright nava a red paper pmwncei 1 were expected to withdraw, and tliora who -- ,(! remained colored paper and helped them to make them. tood with bent backs while aha Ci&m fosiuMiL them. . Oh, yes, I bad to discipline whirligigs that turn with the wind; and passed. And she did not want any 01 " one I couldnt take Ideas put Into the children's heads J'eratta after that aha act them to awlnglng and around kipping' rops until time for th last songs the sleeve and lead him J"lThey wers of ths blood royal and they do with that little boy yonder, j wtr npccted to know it. The Queen d the afternoon. That was In tha vacat- saw ms In the ircie. jWByg dined with the members of her his of out was place sura ion school. Now that tha for to would never do with a member or castle, but chool s open, teacher and tots are playing m ,ly wb0 happened g bs in the were batting are nsed for tba at tbe tha ths royal family. But I dont believe xro with a. ahoro. small hnlf. or a penknlfeetrlpa of rollon nd singing Inslda th building. Theonly tbl time ot year furs are being stents soiled un H.e aurfscs rul with on anyway. when a a child, favorite handa through th(w!idd.ns. snd sny pleoes of cheap silk or occasionally except table, laying If ear would Sot a youngster knows, or forih from their J 5? ths chalk Urk. When the; silk that is on Land time I do It here la when the noise tow was speotolly invited. knew, that tecchs' onos did tha very n. that tli children cant hear me It was tha extrema formality and the, ame soft of thing with the favorite grani-ehlldrafter, yery exacting routine that grew irksomeAmer-'fcof Queen Victoria: that for five a time and made mo long to corns to Tears tee oh or" was klndergartner at Th did (here honor the snd pay. poor tea: that Windsor Castle, having under her cars the would not settofy m after the first year or two wuy eldest boy and one little girl of Prlaoeso ou him sit make I received, imi, were! nor even th handsom rlfta of Dattenberg. . -- mnref " where there are so msny Sometime the Queen mads mr a i one unonreutnu now w io naiiu And why, ona asks at the vary start, did Ft ntarod timeher bmh lilt, rn more It orb wasfowels. but for b"lr' , lt. Bomrtini Mrs mid only to be cleaned p,m in a Imt uv.-a klndergartner fur royally come to New we always went in collar, ley a pltc of newspaper over th where lx. li firmly and sewad and After Prince having, hot. primroses snd the her vrry from are snd nndy jiuef yel W,rrl 0le they kivi.i uiti.bikc Tork and take up work In the sluma? the children to collar itself and cut out a pattern ex(he spring. 1 would forbidentire to to morning. The answer comes quickly: "For the gather primroses fotan actly Ilk th on cn which the furmarkbe placed. Then cut th fur, af.er Bnty. The British royal family does not I "Every evening at five 1 took Inem to piece ing It out from tb paper patp-rnfoy as much for a klndiwgartneria services room for .aa, and after grsndmot-ur'the siams, wad with cotton and line with Ihe New Tork Board ot Education. Be- - ,diniu-- she sometimes scut for inem. They tlu-he sewed riq'ot u silk, and it c.in ride. It Is so stiff and formal In Englands totted to play around in her room, it nny be. Hie collar wliatev-, s!iie in i foyal household. One must always eat .u, i me a e well a done .with touch end she 'iU. he thing uuite sing gsvs pin Bust'S ne right n, uteri, ;.nd 'ii'ppcarsn.-eQueen, hey must not the fmut lge of a caps or to. a in mr. Sometime with the children, on. When a sat they surmounted set with when a crow,,, halt r ' they except by travelling initials, uj Fir,t of ftII thuroSnIy .,r th m.s no, eext that to edged with fur are muiidsd. fo "er H,?.onaflon01 yachts, and everything ,Weat into the room they had to rurtcuy foCduow.andKe.lihenotcom.r-- J PUI,w muff, rut vm a nnail V or made Into Irasger polnU. The stper ;i,, bIr tb cork t'rk. exactly the very low to th Queen, a we ail did. and SH1 ? 1 U cumb whn wai very aitMrAnijflut Wo!, Junt fhn s nrmsrsr to turn m c'lrnr, laitium is made for tins a fur ine fancy aftfr day. I like the freedom vim her hand; and aoraeUme aba would from her of In M or 1.?, th tha thK' raw mu ut out ton mm ii; cnllur. snd the fur mud Just lu the shat away fa th ;.rr'. to rwsmiv any on of Ufa la America them to kiss her check.outAnd tho hundred of children of tho tenemenu put uM ba au don iarv now; bIe thi, then tlm of tho V uam of tlse pattern, finuriitil and sewed Into of back e v II must at always ,h, who tako their artltiolal play half aadiy In ah nrrimarv coarse e iiiht cSDe.iauv for loiiif dVinff Avdfi anil ruvr (i a At first tho honor of yry UU Tfl choree-freedom none of the : haired fUre. a: that , and with un wiu. to apdy snd make ih outdoor play. or two tbaiilow necked frocks woen onrs But, afterjakin, comimig triin whh silk or did the child teriseI Ilknatural and not and wte th Prines and Pr.n- this best. ?. Queen, the ail, iiy, and shaiui; t- -fir material, if only one fM a governes I was that she did not pull the her to ,0 f the fur sc-- ; m um , , ui , pains, snd goes tbe inxi, tiiis tor cieamna iui. awiy (though I might hav ai,c ulder kii strip dw" j0 mak " f n ' l wolh trimming snoud bs exactly the sam rl t iea S ,iinu.d always remember to handle, w BELTS. rounB,,r children had I cared i ver In the neck. This w ni.., to rtv . , is which It th as to Ixoand edge B dlI ,ow cut gosns tJie Murries, appeu.-an.-ishape fUw VfTy lrwne-noth-ns yrntly. even when beating bot hfi b.e!, and alts wore very applisd- leather belts smbnsiied in rich p,n them out lt.it upon an uphuto:T t .a, an(j vny NEW HOSIERY. soaking them out. fur it is vry whenever There e,e vnr. u. two monih. a1a ...."Wteklnt . fur thst Is on bind la the a.xl ...., t0 n or were not very fon.1 or HEAVY ere ons of the novelties of ta uhar, p.acel out of doors if tb skin, especially if j Is less flamboyant than It It to a houe Is to be cut up for band clwww Tl,e fouiulalion cu.or is us- - beat Wii.i a i I! of line twig.,, or s.ta and quite ru he old or half won. -go. but Is extremely fur HOSIERY r. Furru-iover furs, or when cut-- good plantngo to wrHncflrw who have little use twi w -- ut, nnk-rfi.u rat..m uaiiy black, as the r.ch reds, g.cens at the fur bands fur pretty. Black silk stockchildren, with o many and gold show up best on ths backgruLud ration. w hip; ,.K vonrtaMly wits t ;b ii into Hir.p for trimming bands, toy etore and look u.-- ings lo be worn with low shoe are Ona will find that they are wadded uofon fob1 with the kin sidv up. Now to take their time. The a,.d the pattern sr ctinventional o.icnuu bands, nnd altei ihe fur has beta . wherever Jn is the Queens aV.'T.af embroidered with liny wreath uf violets, to into all ..nd nnd lined d place, Ensme.Ied metal bock.ts for about two hour. It rommeio-ready after n of hit poiul-chak. wllh the Queen went the C lirinwiull rather he wllh m. snd they :or Egyptian. in ,.ioa mark oth- - r In color and des.gn are used frontier and nur "al. ; , where tli rut- - and If a firm class hit of work ia deiured el, liter of little rosebud or som trice and her children r.nt. ...I,..- - fond or their nurs. Borides the jeorree ponding it for mlf ,.n hurlrg n,enuicd cut and wadded fl.ir.il pattern in tone with the truck ling the hemp article should a footmxn with these r V wsa to to worn with. who drove ly rich. each article, and then, if tha fur a till made on tb skin u th wrong vlds, and and lined in th sam foshiun. Narrow Tendon New Is in miles. From tha nurs- Windsor Castle to a lower aide kindergarten la a much step by other measurements mere miles; yet it is a step that has been taken by Mire Marla fherrer, a klndergartner in ths New lurk public schools .. s. rROM , j ,Edlnft jtaS?Ewire FersjJ0 gnu - jnl tokp vsxjm demo-cours- ; fsm-Th- : How Furs May Be Properly Cleaned and Renovated at Home. at ladles-in-waltln- HT h Tdtorth' 'klmi..ria s.-eni- en w '.f . -iiin '' ' mm htS. hm-nn- a r wc r herj,' r"1. homh i W bet-.nI- IT t.7 f ?! thir .7 ... vndrd or 1r'Jl ... I MULTI-COLORE- l e.la tnfhr. ( ir .x, Ind.f-parent- s, fr!j fV D . w'-r- 'Il b-- bc-- r. s yi-ii- g trm-nilr.- i ",' In-- I- - g. |
