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Show jr THE MORNING EXAMINER, OGDEN, UTAH, SUNDAY MORNING, OCTOBER 2, 1904. and brown hats, or these hate are adorned with bright yellow paradise ospiey. evolved from rreuilon Mllhnery gl ice silk in little ruches and frill are The of Jeremiah were mild PARTS, lo tbe wail of woe outbursts of Indignation beard here in Part from viailing American dressmakers when they been me aware of the attitude uasumed toward them by their Parisian con-freres. Thia year the beat couturierrefued to how their modela until after the let of September. Uy thia protective measure they hope to break up the aartoriul plagiarism which they contend has worked such havoc. In very their business. These artist plauaibiy explain that before a patron really has a chance to wear a toilet stamped with their exclusive Ideas some enterprising American couturier within the sacred has seen the precious productions and transmitted the ideas In sn almost occult fashion lo hia partner ueroas the water, with the result that the models make their appearance simultaneously. Kven at thia date, when the sartorial game lew has expired, the directow of the leading dressmuking esisbiisliiiienia take a good look at visitor liefore showing them the latest "ere lions." Tliey nutiirally have a dread of the small maker of clillTona who walk around the showroom picking up ideas and departs unceremoniously without giving an order. Well, these Parisian couturleres certainly have causa for complaint, and il'a a pity they cannot cop right their costumes. Imitation may ha the slnrercst lialtery, but Its credit is not good. We tire face to fore with autumn; tl'a In the air and In the styles one eeea wherever the smart wt are gathered together these days. The welcome crisp-lieIn the atmosphere reminds ue that the day is not so very far distant when furs will be a neeesaary luxury. The furriers ate giving ua the most stunning things this season with fancy effects In skins taking high rank. The derlaton of la Mode 111 this respect, la moat determined, and the old plaint shout painting the lily will have mi effect oil the smart purchaser. The Louis XV. and lamia XVI, fur Jsrkrts will have a great vogue and are to be mad up In ull auilable fur. The embroidered vest will play a prominent part on Iheae II tile mulx In the plainer garments the baaqurd coals will lie most popular, but the woman of fru gal mind who owns a last yeur'a fur blouse and bolero need have nn fear of being dubbed de mode should she again appear In them becoming garments. Last winter there waa a perfect erase for coate mads from the akin of that liunibl little burrower, tbe mole. Fashion deserted also en muaae tla former favorite broadtail and caracal for thia ierlahahle moleskin and a half riosen not at all good Imitations. Now tickle fHshluna favor baa returned to flat black furs, and the latent addition to the ranks Is the skin of th black pony. If all these useful animals were to fall victims of woman's whlina the supply would not half meet the de-nid, and a dyed pelt of llila character . will supply the deficiency, which at the same lima' will be an effective and inexpensive substitute for broadtail and ruracal. Uur tastes for fur ha become so that the huinhle orcuimnt of the Sept. IT. farmyard may reasonably expect a prouder fate than to be ininion.'ihxe'l after death in bookbinding, glove imd bouts. A recruit lo fashion' iirmy from the farm la a stunning trimming which ha caught on" with the fiiMhlunalile furrier and la made from nolhlug les than the akin of the young calf. This trimming la called yens, arid the beautiful creamy whit and delicate tint of fawn combined in this akin make It worthy of this arlstts rn ir euphonium. I am really surprised that the variety of marking and exquisite coloring of the calf have escaped the etlention of the furrier sn long. A pleasant feature about wearing this trimming is that we may be up to date in one iuaUuice with- - pre-enu-- ta, apy-eare- d the drmier cri of the fashionable modiste. I had the privilege of seeing a beautiful model of this gmre of brown , velour. The crown was of me- - j dlum bright surrounded by the daintiest quilling of glace eiik in lovely shadings tuning from red brown through gradations of bronze green to exceptionally popular detail I the small The woman who Is ambitious of always reseda aud mauve so arranred that still which ia knotted cravat wise eluae being ill the right sartorial environment each tiny frill bad a lining of mauve. up to the llmiiii. Kitlall fur ties were i careful not to wear her summer Over one side fell an ostrich pluine I worn lust winter, but the latest models headgear too long, ant she al pres- shaded in tints of The shape depart Just sulticicnily fium me one ent looking out for cool weather milli- was a decided departure from anything nery. The modes for I he coming wincame hud lately and far over ter all show a tendency toward making the have face In a rather narrow effect turne, the crowns of lists an important up high on the left aide. In the latbut later on you will find that ed there la a new curve to tue est these ultra, democratic chimney shaped brim,eliai the pointed effect in front ia affairs will be more or less tabooed b much and In evidence. This exaggerated the chic woman. The first millinery point, though, can only be worn yith example are too common aud In a good effect by the true Puriaieiuie. are much narrower than we are accustomed to see them, and the backs of lists bend downward well oil the hair. The latest Ullage In ornaments for millinery are buckles made of delicately tinted leather, hand painted and act in metal. These bucklea are really artistic. and as tliey are expensive they will not become unduly 'common" for some time to mine. Airoios of leather, there la a very elegant trimming of black embroidery tipped with gold in various designs on white suede. giv-eu- w-- fee-lui- ' 4 ! ' 1 I I ? use. - Tlie cheap servant usually mmes from a home where necessity is ihe mother vf invention and where one kitchen utensil is made to do double service. For instance, one knife will be used to pore vegetables, cut bread and slice meat. Her first lesson in the new position will be to use separate knives for each of these acta. If tbs girl area an endless array of knives In the kitchen drawer she will hurriedly grab first one and then another until they are all In a must deplorable condition f grlminex. Had she received halt FEMININE I : ' r , FACT, er Tbe hew Bird Cage Veil. e bestua the alxe of the stove, with holes cut In It matching exactly those on the stove. When tho process of cooking Is In opera I Ion this cover la put on the stove, and, no matter how much grease is spilled on the "devil's Invention," it will be In perfect condition when the as best us cover is removed. But the pity of it all la that when one has provided these labor saving Inventions aervnnts, as a rule, look askance on them, preferring to use an article of old design even if quits worn out rather than a novelty they have never seen before, which inny pukxle them to handle fur the first time. In most cases It Is safer lo buy ordinary pots and pans, and when required to add a casserole Parer, corer ana sneer Butter ttml iii r.J.4Sk-a--'Ui,V'- kksicr " kitchen service will be the means of supplying the mistress with an aggravating though amusing manner of witnessing her maid's ingenuity. Equipped with an unaccustomed number of cups and pintvs, tlie average maid will keep the whole eervlc- - In commission, nor will she report to her mistress any breakages so long as she has a good supply to draw on. Even when an entire set is bought the young housekeeper should only give out a few pieces of each, .locking the remainder sway. Towels and tablecloths are another source of friction between mistress and maid, and the heat plan to pursue regarding these elusive things la to give out aa mnny aa are needed for weekly use, thus compelling the maid to wash out a kitchen towel each day. A mistress who had her own Ideas about the Ideal kitchen Blocked the linen Closet with three tablecloths and found, to her amasement, that she was obliged to teach the use of them. A wash-tub- s piece of newspaper laid on the was good enough for one occupant, while hi nit her even dlienaed with that and took her meals standing. After some heartrending exieriences of money wasted, pots and pnns spoiled and dishes broken the young housekeeper will learn that the most simple furnishing Is the most successful for a small kitchen In an ordinary house, leaving scope for whatever la found wanting lo be bought when required. In fact, the pint fur simplicity cannot lie too earnestly preached. The following advice of a very successful home maker who luid to work out licr own salvation along domestic nt e, AND The Kew Medea Ie Sleeve. Sleeves are renewing an unuwl amount of attention at present; fa. deed, they form the most import; portion of the aeaann'a bodice. 8t)W are ao varied that it is not neremary to have any two sleeves alike, no nui. ter how many gowns may be iiuiuUrj In an outfit Very few plain sleeve ur seen, even the bishop hio'Mj Uii tucked at tbe top to form filled ci and around tho arm near the cuff ; increase the apparent size at thut imint, (Sleeves made In two or ibivj are not uncommon. They fitted cape from which depend deep nnuisy or ruffle of material. These fl.u c wifely over the undersleeve of tuehng lace. Some have the flounces cxtliend Into a band thut reaches In a m!uI halt way between the elbow aud wrist, git. ing a decided impression of the tlinv section sleeve. Accordion plait 1 .viee.vi are very long and ful!, somewhat on :! order of the once popular ang- -: sleeve. They are slashed from thnui r to hem on top and fall locn-l-: i e,:'k aide, displaying a c losely inte. sleet of net or lace which merely serve is a transparent covering to the bar arm. s ! Kvealag Wrap. For the woman without a carriigr I dark evening coat is the praefiedi thing, but pretty dark evening vni4 are the rare exception among rcsurl made garment a rugs and furniture. Third, no matter how small the Income, a certain sum should be pul aside for tbe proverbial "rainy day." Fourth, a practical knowledge of "the economy of good cookery Is absolutely necessary for the young housewife, no matter how much help" she can afford to keep. Fifth, all bills for marketing should be paid Weekly or, better still, when tbs articles are bought. With cars and economy a small amount of money will do wonders. Sixth, It la all Important to be sys- tematic In looking after "leftovers. Where there's a .will there's a way" even if the means are limited. EDITH MORRISON. Wamea Ihwnld Uigk. Laughter Is a good, healthful, muscle making, lung developing exercise, and It Is aa good for girls aa for boys. And humor can be cultivated In a girls mind without any abatement of the dignity and modesty and charm of her womanhood, not the unpleasant and constant frivolity evidenced In "smart" speech or quickness of repartee, but the humor that looks at the world with a twinkle In the eye and sees Ue absurdities, Us smallnesses and Its fun. It should lie part of every woman's mental equipment, for women are called upon to bear so many of life's email worries as well a Its greater ones. The bringing up of children, the care of servants end the many so called social duties that become a burden all are made easy and possible to put up with by the woman with an unfailing sen of the bright side of life. It Is a sense that lasts through life, through Its many Ills, Its disillusions and Its tribulations. Gm( remeat. Suggestions For Pickling - pepper. Frenchseedstuffed tlie pepper reiw.i the and stand them in water for twenty minute. Far : half dozen large peppers prei-n! forcemeat from half a pound cooked ham and veal, a little coo'H soup meet chopped 'very fine, ad'. pounded to a paste, a grated onlaii lablespoonful of chopped parsley, v ti the necMMi-- salt and pepper. Sn these Ingredients thoroughly. Pkc in a saucepan a half cupful of milk rc the crumb from a roll, add the bating and cook five minutes. The mature when done sffould be etlff. the peppers with this mixture and k In a casserole with enough butter t prevent burning. Moisten the pepP r with melted butter and bake until after sifting over them eome la breadcrumbs. Pickled Cucumbers. Wash the cumbers and pack them In a Jar. Tti gallon throw In a handful of ult pour on enough bulling water to com Let the cucumber stand for iwditv four hours, then drain off the w and repent the process Ter senoi mornings, or until the cucumber tun salty, then drain off the water. Fid three pints of vinegar In a kettle in'll little bag of muslin containing a uHr it spoonful of mixed apices. to a boll and pour it over tbe ff'tekiea Repeat this several times at intavnii of twenty-fou- r hour. Puck In J jars, heat some vinegar and pew a over the cucumbers. Spiced Plums. Six pounds of phw three pounds of brown sugar, one pM of vinegar, en ounce each of doves tin spice and mac and twe ounce rf hi namon. Put the apices In a muslin Cook all slowly until the Juice Is a thid sirup. Preserved Damson. Wipe the eons well with a coarse towel and pn each one four or five lime, then ww the fruit. Tut In a saucepan ,hre(' fourths their weight of sugar, with en cupful of water to each pound of sud Bklm as soon aa the sirup reach W boiling point rut the plum In a at a lime, and they will retain W shape during the cooking. When oft place In a atone Jar. It a - strong cement which may be used for mending stone Jars, slopping leaks In kettles, to fasten In lamp tope and for all aorta of other purposes la made of glycerin and lilharge made to the consistency of thick cream. This cement will resist (he union of hot and cold water und is well adapted for the mending of all sorts of things which are Intended for use as well aa for ornament and therefore are supposed te be fit for hard wear. The one point to be remembered Is that the cement lakes a long time to dry. Bo after the repair has been made it ts well to set the Jar or whatever it may be away on iMk After tho Qalet Child. a shelf for a week or more that the ceA child who Is always quiet houidj ment may become perfectly hard be- watched carefully, for It Is quite B fore it la used. natural state of affairs and hw V something la wrong. Those h Removal of Warts. 7 much among the schools of CONVENIENT KITCHEN ACCESSORIES. To remove a wart pour on It a drop poor know that It often mean, of vinegar and then cover It with aa tude from want of proper nouriwm" ary one who has bad mucfi experience er some suth utensil carefully explainllnm will prove a regular sermon to the much carbonate of soda as the vinegar If It occurs in the children of the ' alih this monster and knows how dis- ing to the maid Ihe advantages these young housekeeper: will absorb. Keep it on ten minutes off It shows that vitality la w couraging It Is to pollah a stove will have over tbe common ordinary impleIt Is not wise to provide too and repeat the application twice daily. that for some reason or another First, welcome tlie rw contrivance. In a few days ihe wart generally It Is ments employed. tnony pot, kettles and pans when furdrops food la not giving the etrengts nothing more than a thin piece of se A dinner sot provided exclusively for nishing the kitchen. off. leaving only a tiny whit mark. should do. w FASHION. manufacturing drug house of Weight -man of I'bfl.ideli-li- i Is Mr. Walker, on them Inside and out. lMvliig them dsughter of the hue William Weight -In a good breeze and euu to air and man. Fur nevi-r.i- l year Sir. Walker lia been the manager of tlie firm. Kite dry thoroughly. In Tompkins Kquare park. New Turk I n woman of business recently opened h j.t lyvnnind capacity. She is a widow, with a forcity, for girls alone. Beveral sinrt. r playtune ,,f JlO.eao.aia'. ground will be opened Ip oilier city People are cert a Inly living longer and parks there. IVrk llo-s-i'oniiuisinin-keeping young longer than tln-- used ir.il- to do. Sirs. Klir.uhelh Hunt of J. Pallas ordered for girls he x.itd buys I'OJI-I.- . who lately rolehr.itcd . one hn.idred and fourth birthday, always crowd girls out of every th!i--rThe surviving partner of tlie great say she fee no older than she did til pl.iy-grnu- ' signed for one of the society brides 4 the autumn. . This coat hangs In lung lints from The yoke m(( gathered , heading. sleeves are strapped with aLitchtf bands of the cloth. It la an exceeding! simple cost, and therein lie It snuru ness. Becond, It la always decidedly cheaper In the end to buy only good carpets, A FANCY No matter how many wrong things you have dune In the paet. there Is all the future before you. and In It you ran balance the old score and make a new one. In ton many home the receptacle for the soiled linen ia not pro;irly looked after. Hag are unwholesome unless tliey are frequently washed and tmiled. The wicker tmakei are better, but bey Put should be frequently cleansed. them out In the air aud turn the base To arrange tlie new veil first place thj lower edge of the veil at the point of the chin, then, drawing It up to the hat brim, pin it securely right In the Clouses have been relegated to the center. After thut bring the two end fasten them directly on background lately on account of the togetherofand crown of the hat. If fasthe the top prevailing fashion for bodices made of tened at the back there will be billowy the skirt material, but the autumn blouae certainly make itself worthy of folds all about the side which will be notice. A charming novelty 1 a blouae difficult to dispose of neatly. Th Idea of very course cluny lace, the thread Is to place the knot directly In the cenof the crown. When this la done It being like string. This luce, which Ie ter necessary to use two or more pins, usually seen in gray and ecru, la worn ie one at either aide of the hat brim. Just with a skirt of the same color. Agnes la I lie famous blouae maker over the ears. After the various plnnlnga and plachere in Paria and waist of hers have a cachet which ie undeniable. A very ing the last act la to draw down the smart Agnes blouse Is of cream loulaine veil at tbe chin and make a little smillaid In front In three box plaits, the ing face at yourself In the mirror. All two outer plaits end the shoulder women do thia Why? Nobody know, even girls themselves. If Eve wore straps ornamented with enameled but- not tons. The choker and deep yoke are of vella ehe did It too. Anyway, It la cream lace. A shirt waist blouae of something that must be dona because blue green ailk was another delightful all women do It. A lbs number she would bars been obliged to keep I linn clc.m. While on the subject of knit ex. liters Is a ne vegetable p.ircr. very simple and practical in IlH inechniitxin. which may for a small sum. ll I.iim a miller long bliiilc. ruinid at one end nml square al the other. Ilnir wuy lietwecn tlie ends Is M stout ring, through which the fingers are slipped. Tin si range-jnedors away with the ordinary li.ui-diwhich often liss sn nnnoyliig fashion of mining loose Just when it is most wanted lo stay "put. Then there is the new soup slock kettle. for you know that every liille dinner be It SOUP course nonad.it. Till kettle is nude nf agate ware and I provided with a stopcock, by means of which the contents are easily drawn off. Another device which Is a boon to tlie woman who la her own maid of is a range work or t the nest scr-n- t protector. HomelsMiy has said that tlie urge's Invented food, hut the devil invented tlie Iron cooking stove, and ev- - . an extravagant which no woman who hT1' utation for being an ultra na'i ru; can do without. Tlie charming wrap Illustrated i. rled out In this new etude kllj itself particularly to the pretty fichus are now being especially advocated by Dame Fashion. A dainty example I effected by means of a buuillonne of gathered net. The net for the edge simply cut In strips and gathered each side so as to leave a double heading ua a finish, then studied to tlie edge of the fichu. Smart bow of ribbon in front complete an inexpensive and stylish fichu. When fashioning fichu almost any Utile odds and ends can be used, but nevertheless it is well lo be careful not to have too many kind of material on one article. Nothing look so bad a an old piece of silk or ribbon on a practically new fichu or fancy cap. The difference ie apparent even to the most untrained eye. and tlie general appearance of a toilet I aimiled rather than improved by the addition of a carelessly put together fichu. one-eigh- th of lust year to be termed new. Then tliey are used In a different faehlon, being frequently supplied en suite With a coatee to nil up the deficiency of a picturesquely thrown back collar. The only drnwbeck to a cravat of fur is that adopting It once ts apt to be a case of PARISIAN AUTUMN BODICES. adopting It to the end of the season, and there ie alwuye a question In the great many case offer too mnny oppornilmi of many mondaliies whether a tunities to the amateur artist. An unlimited quunllty of color Is eeen wrap curried quite up to the throat ia a giuid thing to wear from th hygienic on hats. Red chapeaux trimmed with shaded roses end begonias as well as point of view. The crowning glory of a woman, we yellow roses in all shades are the ere told somewhere, I her hair, but height of fashion. Bright green gauxe above that might lie placed her hnt. veils are wound around Munnlng gray onion white doth tialvIil 1 w.-iic- th out musing more slaughter than la demanded by our taste for veaL Another fur which lia a promising future la dyed kolinsky, holler knuwn as red sable. This is a fur that never to ns1, the miming being apieald raLher harsh and crude. Entire mala are to be mude of kolinsky, and It Is also used as a supplementary trimming. A queer species of trimming seen the oilier duy consisted of a number of perfectly matched squirrels heads aew-e- d In a atrip. Tills adornment had a derided smack of the barbaric and suggested the trophies of the red man Willi hia twit of human svaliML Th queen of furs sulila appears with her loyal state eaeli season. Till licit will always reluiii precedence over all others, Just as the diamond triumphantly holds lia own uguinat colored gem. No limiter how th price of Siihlo rises, the woman who ran afford Hits envied extravagance will add a caiia or atule to her possessions. 1 lur-rlsubiti, the next ranking fur is mink, and, although liy no menus cheap, it adapts itself to the dress ullowum-of the average woman. Kl ill another furry novelty which promises to be an AS The Pauhlaaable Flrha. three-quart- THE t The Snarl Travelieg cat I The fashionable fichu Is a thing of bcauy and a Joy forever, and tbe present style of dress, which hu a strong tendency toward the picturesque, lends three-quart- furnishing of a new house a serious undertaking, and nf the mlstukcs are only when It la too late to rectify them. Perhaps the worst errors In house furnishing are those which occur In tlie purchsslng of kitchen utensils, end the young housewife Is usually the worst culprit in this respect. In many cases aha la a bride who lots had no exiwrimicc in the selection of furniture of any description until after the auspicious day on w lilcli aa a bride she quitted tier maiden meditation for the more active duties of the inatrun'a life. This beginner In the ways of housekeeping Is spt to forget that the necessaries of the household, particularly those pertaining to the kitchen, should be selected before decorative articles. The reason for this stole of things Is not difficult to trace, ss most girls of the well lo do rlnss are accustomed to n sufficient number of servants to make th domestic machinery run smoothly and are In the hubll of seeing them supplied with all the Implements ueces-esi- y for the performance of their duties. Then, again, when they have tried their hand at rooking the kitchen ms id saw that "the young ladies" were surrounded with the very best pans and keltlra her dresser afforded for he making of the particular aulad nr sweet In hand. to naturally when the nnvke goes forth to fit nut her own little kitchen she buys just as many utensils ss her mother's kitchen boasts, end likely as not they will be much more up to dute. phe forgets that probably her bus liand and herself will commence their new life with a maid of all work who will doubtless be willing to accept moderate wages fur her Inexiierlcncnl services and will not be familiar with s third vf the utensils provided for her X buttons at tbe front fastening. sleeve were of the old fashioned leg of mutton style strapped at the wrist. A freak of fashion which will take the place of the buckle on the broad corset shaped waistband is composed of small rings of colored Dresden china CATHERINE TALBOT. horses. The Kin wt (he Haag. Contrary to popular, belief. It Ie not the sninilggt hand thst is the Ideal one. The Ideal size ie that which a six and a quarter glove will lit, and a well shaped hand In this else is pretty If shaped. Tlie ideal hand must be fairly plump, with tapering fingers, end such a hand as this will show off a glove to the bent advantage, filling out every part of It ao that there la not a crease or a line to be seen. The measurement round the wrist at the first button should be five and Inches, round the knuckles at the base of the fingers six and er Inches, round the hand at the hall of the thumb seven and a half Inches, from the base to the top of Inches the thumb four and three-eighand from the top of the second finger to the fork three and Inches, and the other fingers In proportion. The woman who can show these measurements can safely lay claim to an Ideal hand which will compare favorably wlLh any other. What to Buy When Furnishing the Kitchen V model, fashioned with a round yoke outlined with atrip of the UL. between of small bronze which were groui button. From the yoke tlie silk was laid in free hanging tuck and Moused into a fitted girdie trimmed with six ii. half a century ago and knows no reason why she should not life soother century. Blie looks like a well preserved woman of seventy. A pinch ef suit or spice Is a fill. A few grains is less than a To blend seasonings sift aaltspoonful. them thoroughly together adding them to mixture. Esther CoMsmlth writes fire InMr. surance pnltcti in St. Louis. Rubber plnnis require to be nourished. and If a tiildespoqnful nf castor oil be occasionally i cured into a little salt-spo- trenrh made round the stem and cov- ing gowns are made with thia kind of prises the tray, pitcher and al alrevr Bottom, top, cover and handle A carved sandalwood fun costs a dolpitcher are of the metal wrought lar. As a breeze stirrer its thin leaves delicate the design. The stems of may not he a success, but Its fragrance ea and their bases are also of them" will permeate any receptacle in which by Keep drains wholesome down board. The best ol them ore of cut It Is kept. water hot potash strong, Re always displeased at what thou glass mounted in nickel, silver or wood. f frequently. Tits by this means keeps lla art If thou deatrest to attain to whnt To prevent a disagreeable ,mzLg, savor for longer than when ground In thou art not. for where thou hast fit catch anything happens to the old way. pleased thyself there thou abldeth. throw salt upon It at Tl-Kalzertn. the new metal, has taken on rooking long sleeve, open and flarirg at or shoe may hJJ0 Hnrd boots the gold tone. A cordial set. (he bottom, shows off the blending by rubbing with kerosene. TbM, w ell. Many taffeta dud other silk walk green glass and the gilt toned in, com becom could be deft aa pliable ered with earth it will be found to great ly improve their growth. Individual pepper grinders, always In e. evidence on the French restaurant have heroine familiar on American PV undt-rslecv- u |