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Show the MOEXING EXAMINEE, SUNDAY, OCTOBEE C, 1904, bat vary onrety. 1 Dome Fash-- l turning bar back upon the comparatively scant akirta that hava baan tha rorua far anrh a Iona tlma and bar bricMaat amllaa ara (Iran to thoaa that ahow aurb an aatmno of fulnaaa at tha ! that tha quantum of a crtnollno or aaa aouvanabla substitute that for ttoonw a bumlnq ono rlaht at tha beginning of tho season. But wtth all thla bouffanti-that aiiut ha not avan tha ramotnat hint of atllfnaaa la anjrthlna. Trna enough It la that akirta maaaur or will measure. fro" " Tarda at tha foot; that alcana will ba manly a aucnaanlna of puffa and frill.; that bodtananto ba arttotlcally dnpad whlla dlackialng tho anlta llnaa lowly. y and "mat racantSaJEE tfd of that arbitrary dama must ba earaful to aelroT tha close of laatarlala that will out thoaa dicta to tha wary beat advaZ tap That stiff and wiry yood. will nut maka graceful (..Ida baary clotha cannot bo asaulpulated,tet in Iln- - U that pnaa without ink. Tha clover alrl who follows tha faahtoaa. and parha pa Uada than to aoam Unaa, baa alraady decided that jut JMml tjrm, " affalra that wa have been waarlnq for ao many aeaaona past that tbair la, Indeed, a cordial ona. And then fur thorn extremely fun akirta, where aoft folda falllnq in long; atralqht and almost unbroken llnaa are neeeaaary to produce tha correct effect, crape da china la simply tha Ideal fabria double width meoU Tha new preannt requirements nicely, for with It tha anuq, smooth, though anything t, lit over tha hips can bo but arranged without at all Interfering with tha required fulness at tha foot. All of tha fashionable trimmings and trimming effects dilma In beautifully with tha crepe goga; and Indeed, many of tham seam to have been especially designed with such In view. Anything and everything that can ba done to add to the broad aboulder effect Is In vogue; and whatever will add to the appearance of roundneaa and slenderness at the waist Is In equally good standing The wise girl who (Ives thought to har appearance has already discovered that this new figure cannot possibly be precorset that hoe sented In the prevailed for the part few see sons. It Im delightfully comfortable for shirtwaist wear, to bo sure; but with tha new fitted and draped bodice tha corset wal-co- one-ma- m skin-tigh- -- Ihcra ia no malarial which will carry tha modaa, currant and to coma, aa will I ha era pro tha allk era pea (hat coma la uch a profusion of waano and aoior-I-n in thla autumn. To the comment that la aura to a rim that wa hava had crapaa da china with ua for aoma Uttla tlma now tha faililon-abl- o moadalno quickly repllea that Cham ara crapaa and erepea and yet a.ntn err pea, and tha new waavaa and flniahaa to my aothlnq whataoaver of tha ctilor really htyh novelties in them solves. Indeed, It la possible to hava qulto a repertoire In err pa da clilna powna of varylnq waava and color, and that without a hint of monotony, either. For tho draped hodlom that ara mak card-a- ra ing eurh a furore for themaelvra abroad with tha willowy Parislenna and with her mnra aulmtantlally bull! Eng-Ua- h coualn thara la nothlnq, not ovan a allk valla, that will taka just tha name aoft folda without Incrcualnq tha bulk or apparent aim of tha Oqura ona lltile ML And tham ara aueh a daddad departure from tha blouaad and pouchy Foolish Social Advice. It weBld ha Interesting to know Jnot vrhet aoelal asperlanece thoaa amiable society editors of a certain elaaa hava joyed who give advice to their random II ho that contained tag tha following quo- tation Da not excuse or forgive too readily any undna familiarity on tho part af your partner. Remember, ha may ba almost a strong to you. and yon may aver meat agala. If you ara tired and prefer to mlaa a danca alt it sat with year partner If ha auggvete It, you ara hound to him for tha tlma Navar make tho groaa mistake of sitting It out with another man. No matter how much you may prefer tha society of ona parties lor man. navar let your manner ahow M, put ho pleasant, affable and smiling to all alike, Above all, never descend Into the semmcnplara vulgarity of flirting with another girl s lover even If you are old acquaintances. Try to raallaa what your awa fmllnga would ho under similar The foregoing In run tinder tha caption of Ballroom Etiquette" and It In glvan for what It la worth to the readers of these columns. However, ora believe that ovary young woman who haa a delight in attending ballroom functions should simply raallaa tho fact that there la ao aueh thing aa ballroom etiquette'' any more than than should ha "diningroom" etiquette or bedroom etiquette, or avan stlquetta In tha much abused hall bedroom Inhabited by on a lee whoee paroee are for from heavy with this world's orealth. There In only ona way to conduct oneself In the ballroom, and that la according to tha Instincts which ore Inherent In every rightmlnded person. A great drill of harm Is undoubtedly dune through lust such advice aa tliat which we have quutcd by fnlae hleule and Ideas ae to peraisingmethods of conduct. culiar low-bu- st muat hava tha higher bust line, a mors pronounced cut-i-n at tha waistline, and tha long. Blender dip In front. Dama Fashion continues to dictate Hips In!" to her devoted followers, so tha hip of the new corset la long and aloplng. In accordance with thla dictum. And wall It Is so, for tha new akirta ara shirred and puffed and pi m ted over tha hips In a manner that will maka tha girl of generous girth bewail har lot and maka bar taka to strenuous exercise to reduce her hulk. Trains have almost disappeared, and tha round short train, that which tha English woman facetiously designates tha bobby" train, has token Ita place. Skirts are to be of a length, and tha ona that lay on the floor an Inch or two In front and on tha aides and made all kinds of trouble for its wearer haa already bean relegated to tha background. Tho rough, crinkly canton crepe, tha dull satin meuallne, tha brilliant and ahlny astln merrelllaux and tha aatln lumlneuse are soma of the very newest In tits double width that can fashion a skirt with clever cutting and a alngla seam. Two near tones of tho asms color are sometimes seen In those aatln finishes, giving something of a shot affect. All of tha new colon,- tho leather deed. Braids and braiding ara tha preferred mode for the tailor-mad- e gowns at thla present uniting, and they are applied not only In the moat Intricat patterns, but In savers! and varying widths as welL The broad braids ara now mad with a pull string In cither edge, ao that they may readily be mad Into circles, rosettes, little puffed bands and aueh, all In an instant's tlma These are then defined with a aoutach braid, thla often In gold, or with a gold thread Interwoven, for tha little touch of the mldas eolor Is considered indispensable to tho ere sun's made. And while wa are talking of the tallore mnda those vest that are ao try fashionable will afford a moat delightful field fur the Ingenuity of tho girl as a designer and embroiderer. Tha auedo finished clothe In all of the delicate tints are second only to the veritable aueda llealf fur this purpose; and these ara hreli led. embroidered In silks, and the tlnr Merle Antoinette ribbon and chenille as well; and often tha design la supplemented with tiny beads and span-gir- o that gle aueh an airy lightness to the whole design. And tha vary newest eondelt calls for tha vest the flitrlng upturned cuff and the collar of any variety that la most becoming, all embroidered e en suite; and when there la aa little handbag fashioned of tha same aueda and embroidered In Juet tho same way then (lie costume Is complete In all old-tim- Tha vogua for varying laees on tha on bodice, or gown, win serve to use up many of tha odd places of really good lac that will accumulate and maka an economy of what really appears to ba an axtravoganra. Not content with tha exquisite designs of tha lace, tha fairy-Ilk- a lightness of tlia weave, the modern tnald besprinkles her lares with mock jewels, tlnr paillettes, Uttla gilt and crystal beads and a bewildering multitude of fnnry stitches llkawla. Than aha will inset medal Ilona of ona lacs upon another and define this Inset with a double futile of tho finest valencienne. On tha new very full akirta tha tendency la to make tha trimmings assume tha horliontal line, a device that will maka tha short girl gnash her tooth with rag, for tha full skirts, plain and unadorned, la foreshortening enough to tha figure; but with tha trimmings run on 'round end 'round It simply subtracts whole Inches from her apparent height. For her, especially, have the vandyk point appliques been Introduced! and these are not made to cover too much .pace, but tha slanting up and down linns, with their suggestion of height, will prove vary becoming to her Inches Indeed. Tucks, nun's folds, milliners' folds and tha Ilk are right In the very front rank of fashion. Thera used formerly ha made by hand, and whole days It sometimes took to fashion them correctly, for a rlrgle stitch amiss throw the whole fold nut of trna Now, however, tha stitch of tha sewing machine haa replaced tue handwork; and the automatic tuckers and folders guaranies s degree of aceuracy that Is comforting; Indeed, to tha amateur who likes to fashion her own sartorial possessions. Hut It Is In tha disposition of laea upon her frilly and fluffy gowns that the clever girt especially rare la Thors la simply no end to tha doalgna that may ba worked out In thla way; and the designs are often supplemented wtth tiny frilled ribbons of a contrasting tint, or a wavy border la produced by a shirred fold of aatln or chiffon velvet. staircases, to Thoaa Uttla eacallero-- or Interpret accurately of velvet ribbons fashioned Into tha square Louis Bela bows find many applications on tha new gowns Made In varying or graduated sices, they decorate tha front tabllar of tha gown, fasten tha featherboned girdle, and wend their way through tha fulness of tha puffy sleeve. Rosettes, too, ara highly favored; and they may ba dotted almost anywhere over tha quaint gowns tliat are ao much tha rage. They ara of lace, of chiffon, of silk, of velvet; In fact, of any material that la handy. They need not at all correspond to tha material or eolor of tha gown, provided they offer a harmonious contrast. And In the list on 3 must not forget to Include buttons. Buttons of all aorta and shapes and slzea The Ivory, metal, porcelain, polished wood some exquisite square ones of California redwood appear on an Imported gown a re all fashionable; and aa for tha made button, tha ono covered with allk or cloth or velvet they eder a delightful backs', ound for elaboration ao much ao that It la really a temptation to embroider and head them to the utmost limit Tha new bratellea or braces offer an opportunity far original effects that tha smart girl will quickly maka har own. These ara often' In velvet ribbon tha broad ones are beat and pass over tha shoulders, back and front from tha eeintura, Tha shoulders ara made the point of elaboration; and buckles, bows, buttons and aueh ara used for adorn- ment In the Height of Fashion. Black Crepe de Chine With Touches of White. A Girlishly Simple Gown. Black crape de chin Is aver la good style, and In the satin finish ia particularly modish at tha present writing. The model In tha picture shows tha satin mervclllaua crape with appliques of black chontilly posed over whits chlffoB to throw up the design In bold relict The corsage I arranged with a lace plastron. In which tha Chantilly and a white guipure are blended. The leave Is a doultia pug to tho elbow, where black chiffon frills appear. Tha akirt displnv the advantage of tha ore ream width being fsKhloned without dm, except in the bnrk. There la a lace yoke around tlie hipa and Ilia full fitiiinee la headed with Inca and tucks applied in vaiulyk point, w tterever tlie black chuniilly laea Is arpliqued tha mpr la cut nway aud a wait double cluduu Inserted. Ptmpla In outltna but elaborate in detail, la thla eharming frock of pearl-whi- te crepe da china in tha new double width, that cuts to aueh good advents ga Tha yoke of a boula da note net la defined with a bertha of chontilly, with a little coral pink velvet twisted through It. Tho corsage la shirred over shallow cords and drops into tha eeintura Tbs sleeve has aa puff deftly draped from shoulder to wrist, the chantllly laea over chiffon edging either slda The akirt la arranged In three sections, the ope shirred to tha other, the Inc forming a tablier down tha front and making an edge at tha hem. Rosette of lace, centered with a gold embroidered coral velvet, button, are spaced down tha front, and a further ona finishes the collar at tha back. Where Fluffy Puffings featb-erbon- ed -- Clever Use of Ribbon and Lace. Broad aaah ribbon in tha dull Dresden printing and a deep lace, a combination of Cluny and Bruges, nro daftly nun-agin this frock of white crepe do chine, to which a eeintura and strap ed In double width la cleverly touched with Original Designs That Make Their Appearance On Autumn Importations. Its details off-eol- or Model for Afternoon Gown Here a Havana brown crepe da china Novel Trimming' Schemes. These ba tha dnya when tha girt wtth tha nlmbla finger ah who knows how to wield her needle to tha beat affect-c-an hava the mod at her finger tips, so to apeak, and can fashion for herself the most delightfully novel and original trimming schemes, and that at tha minimum of expense, That la. If har tlma ba not counted In tha coat, for In these later days time la eloquently money. In- shades, the burnt tints, from tha onion akin on down to tha burnt onion, tho burnt onuiga and tha burnt umber they ara all on tha crops da china card. Tha terra cotta tonea an simply exquisite In tho dull finishes, and the brilliant oopper Unto taka on an added beauty whan combined with tha chiffon velvets of a shads or two darker. Tha mors delicately tinted robes In crepe da china almost Invariably hava a daring touch of color added. For examwhites, tha Ivory, ple, tha soft, pearl and smoky whites, trill have a rope twist of bright coral, or a parrot red. or empire groan, or a aoft onion shada tucked In among tha laces that ara used with aueh a lavish hand. Tha black gowns, too, show tha same tendency; while the colored ones era more likely to keep to their own shading, bat cleverly run the gamut of these from light to dark. Makes The Style. Rather an exaggeration of current modeq but wonderfully becoming to tha slender girt, la thla original modal, la which crap da china embroidered laea chiffon and velvet combine to produce a stunning offset. Tho corsage hag d yoke of laea defined wtth a rich jacqueminot red velvet and a puffy beb waist caught Into a calnture of chiffon. In which cream, pink and jacqueminot red ara cleverly blended. The aalrt from waist to knee la a aeries of bouillon naa and antra deux, and to thla an extremely bouffant flounce la d shirred, a rosea de ruche of cream mouseeiina being threaded with rad and chiffon, making a Jacqueminot hem fluffy finish around tlie foot. Tho haa a featherbnn crinolctte run in. thla being ao flexible that It lo not noticeable when the wearer wxtka heart-shape- Uce-edge- cream lace for yoke and cascade slesv drapery, whlla tha dyad cluny laea which exactly matches tho tint af tha crape, la deftly edged with a ruffled green satin fold, this tatter serving to frame the cream yoke and arranged In bold design on tha lower part of tha skirt Tha eoraage la blouaad above a girdle, and tha front la are ranged to emphasise tha extrema straight front effect an am placement of cream cloth embroidered In green, brows and gold making thla conspicuous, Tha akirt to shirred over eords In fanciful design at tha hip, and two circular flounces ara each applied beneath aaep nuaa folda of tho crepe. The Intricate design of tho dyed laea la defined with tha shirred green aatln. and tha crepe rut away beneath. Toe nem la faced with brown velveteen, ao aa to give aoma body at tha foot to the very anaqr and lightweight crop de china deep-bon- pings of geranium red velvet add ., big touch of eolor. Tho corsage is anti rely of tho sash ribbon shlmi to bolero shape, and disclosing a net of crap and velvet. Tha alaeve la of the broad shirred ribbon, so arranged aa to admit a cascade puff of crape from houldar to elbow, whore a further MS of tho ribbon makes a finish. Tha ekbt la limply arranged In three aaetloan the upper ona of tho crap, cut straight all around, but with a vary Maa seas in the canter back. Thla comm to tha knaa, whirs an applique of tho laea appears; a puffed band of tho ribbon cornea next, and tha lace mounted new overlapping double rulfias of tha crop finished tha skirt White chiffon h passed baaaath tha laea. The drop skirt haa a Paqiitn ilounea of prinesm haircloth which holds out tha flufiy masses of orapa and laea to just tha correct outline without even a hint of The FubUnhar--m publish year hook, east and I think It will fill a long-fs- lt you. Cxa yog kt Tha Author-Tha- nk mo hava IB In advancer' Tha Publisher What fort Tha Author I want to begin t fl that loog-fa- lt want Tbe Popular Triple Skirt Tha triple akirt la a' model much te of tho toll and llcndor glrt whoa elmrif handled make tor a W lo a draoty offoct lndood. Tha modal faint ahado of yellow cropo do diteyj moot a doep cream, and la cafUy tooctm up with brown Yelvet, on which wMw soutache and gold mako for a good cowr contrast. The corsage Simulatea a bolero affect, opening In loose style evw a blouse of accord Ion--plan tad chiffon and tha slaova has (ha soma aquamab fact la tbs erepa da china over a saw of puJy ruffles of chiffon pHssa AH the squares ara framed In Irish aw ntra-dauTha akirt c islets of thru flounces mounted over taffstaa sad an tucked for rathar more than hall ft length, each showing tha taco luaigIM above the hem. Back and front aw each disposed in a double box pBa broadening towards tha end, thla likl iff a long straight Una and offsetting tendency of tha three ruffle to ShortM tha flgurn u hi tord x. |