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Show ' 7, HIE SUNDAY MOKNIMJ EXAMINED, AUGUST 1904. impossible not to And a drug-- , th,t ronnug to toe ligurr; while of the few to whoa wimt l coming some color j, permitted llllt .a' tr. aiming not sufficient tu t of an all white gon. a7.d y 1 fl ' dent to relieve a trying eHevt The skirt that has a yoke, or yoke effect, and is pleated well' un,.. side wlule the from 'k are plain, the former and to hread to. centre ia tha Tr'maad with applique. braid, or with appliqa ltieru70f n..u ..r. fit- L?' i- - f-- Sis' hlouseoowt &' h.toUrVVe uian and a narrow turnover collar of embroidered In allk. The wiL' that la worn with tha blousechiffon baa a 10 orrMponi cola,il ho TSaISL - The parasol carriea out atm further t'is touch of color, and. if so deured. ibfc also la of a color trlnuned with whim h or of while trimmed and faced with fcuB1 color that Is Introduced on U.e goeiT a cootumo like thla is invariably made a long aklrt, and is decidedly a mor wui style of gown than the ae:a, and light weight doth costumepiaiu made un the tailor atyla with a short skirt an.i length eoat, which is u popular for ordinary occasions and tor general wear at the seashore In tlie mornings or on a yacht. The exquisite finish of all summer toi-- u 7 marked, and e,. pecully In aowns uf the sort Juat d oertbed. It la one of this summer's iuor popular fads to havo stockings and slim i to match ths gowu, and a parasol ant veil also foe earh costume. All them details add. of course, very much to tlu but at tlw some time carry usi what ia so much desired, exulusiveno , dress, for it would be Impossible of people to dreso tlila aea.,n according to the latest dictates of fasiilon. Shoes Must Match Gowns. Shoos to match gowns are mada of soejr cloth, canvas and kid, and wbeu it is i,..t 11 ia nut by any means alpossible land ways possible) to secure the shade then both shoes and stockings nui. be dyed to match. Tha white shoes wn;i toe white gowns are csireuiely attractor As all white ia not so smart as It ui i,'. year, there are many costumes which n,. elude a belt of some color, and then ti.t stockings and shoes and bat match iliu. color. The high heeled shoes that were so wnd frowned upon from a sennhi and practical point of view a few ytus ago are now in high favor again, it contandad tbit no evil results can com from the wearing of them, as it is tbs fgshtun now to ride instead of walk, siJ lu truth few of too costumes seen would he lu the least appropriate for women whu do not use their own carriages. The ini of stockings and alioea Is positively a. founding now that thla aew style has heru ordered. , let it must bo admitted tbs' gowns seam much mure finished tlutn wheu lorn attention was paid to these details. Hanv women contend that colored stockshore and all tha fashionable watering ings and wlmaa make the foot look larger, ud same can be carried out, Ideaa go there ara conservative individual! places tlie for women wear their smartest clot he mi who are still to be avu wearing black Just such oorasluus. Hero ars now to be stockings and black s hue h and smart they ! seen the attractive doth and lace and allk are, too. But the tan shoes and mid laea gnwna made on the very latest for general wear the shoes made of suedf and models. are Tlie skirts, whloh era lung;' tha stockings of silk are far mure trimmod with bands of lace or aippllqud often aeen than the more practical, il of law. and hang full, but at the atuai mors' old fashioned, dull finished black time some attention Is paid to tha Unaa o: shoes awf lisle thread stockings. tha figure, in ao far that there la not too Moat of tha costumes Intended for seashore wear ars made with Jackets and much fulness around tha hips. Tha waists or lockets are bloused, and blouaea, .under which are worn the finest have long, full drooping sleeves, trimmed of batiste, linen gjtd lace, ellk and lave, with embroidery or lace. They .have a or al lace walst Tits s peers le waist si IM ordinary shirt, waist generally loose appearance that may. be carried .tout-ta- t I stylo ia no lowgstf considered very amart becoming to slander women, and which supposed to hide effectually the fact that and ia thought quite unsuited to handaoma some women ara stout, but whloh In the gowns ot voile, silk' or light weight du-.majority of Instances la not trim and ntaL, made with a coat and skirt. Tbesa new and mast expensiva wains The Side Plcited Skirt re exquisitely embroidered and sis A favorite atyla of skirt is the pleated trimmed with insertion of real laca or a is one. made with aids pleats and without any mada af the lace or net. The la so so falls la It in upoa qot Jjitrtcato long that trimming. It itself, having a tha ground at tha aides and In front, but yoke wito toe Mneaa below gathered la. It la so fitted at the sides and baclf Hint It and with a straight band down the front . makes even a stout women look slender. If the waist is'made to fasten In the bark, as la often tha case, then there Is a man Ths favorite eout or waist to bo " : Vi with ouch a skirt and as a rule It is a or loss elaborate trimming of fine hand tucks and. enUe deux of tha lace. Then coat over a lace bloiias that la preferred r flta tight over the shoulders, but is made ia not ao much fulness in front as wai ? v m'A t entirely of ahirrlngs of the malarial. Be- fashionable last year, and very little blows low the shoulders are rows of shirring, and at tha walat. t below the bust tha fulness la drawn into Hand Work on Waiiti. a wide belt. Tha sleeves ara In double The lace collarSeparate tie and tlw bell ill and ths ruffle 1 around a with finished puffs, C looked after anil accord, arc most wrist, inalda of which la another ruffle of arc of the fluest carefully materials, and tha wist lace. Tha favorite materials for this atyla must flh, well. This is accomplished by of dress ara silk, mohair and light weight a perfect nttlng under waist of i doth. Voile la also used, as It la for lha having lace and muslin or of the hesvler quality Jmos trimmed gown already described, but of muollii embroidery. The materials sit V'-- , It le a perfectly, safe model te ropy tat '; of lbs moot transparent, and the wslsit black cloth fnr the early autumn. In fact, themselves are really works of srt, so line it le very smart made In black cloth or a le the hand work and embroidery and so light weight black camel's hair, and a beautiful the lace. touch of color can bo Introduced in the garments, but, narrow turned down collhr and In the Thay ars most expensive there are sons few designs knot of allk through which the lace tie le fortunately, to ba Fashion admits that possible which slipped Just in the front. ars mads of much less expensive material If a woman does not look well Inof the to- and tha effeqt Is somewhat the same. The serge gown doth or the whlto be yat it muat be admitted that It la a baeum- - whiteshe laundering of such waists is ratlior diffmust Indeed singularly day one. Ing ao many different icult to accomplish, and cleaning ratlur ara there for At the raceo are always to bo aeen the It would seem than laundering Is generally resorted to. new gnwna and new modela. At the sea models to choose from that a three-quart- er fr . sloe-kin- sli-ov- or OIFM at ta have maintains anything iik (ha high of puffs. four In all. finished at tha wrHt & f v aai expected with a daap cuff of mode Is re and organdie during I ha month of August, afford of thain, and Hi thalr alwd ara now to bal trimming There la a yn ka and collar uf ? , a partmularlp Ana qipnimlly for seen a number of naw malariala In allka Idee. trimmed of tha gtuac, lha display of origiaal taata, and aiilf - allka with a very aoft flnlah and no other trimming ofla any kind on tha gausracostume. Tha paraonl also uf airlpad rnapacta oon,ueittJy ara la many lha amamat that an worn during and guitar atrlprd with allk granadlnaa. gauaa, with a r hi If on border, and tlir color lha aar. By lha aaonnd mall In August old faahlonad looking harrga, and an In' Ilia now blua and whlto la Immensely wwt tha aaiiy faahlona fnr summer gowns liava Hgbl weight! and nlTai'liva. Hlark and wliita. all haan worn, and wliile of omraa thay materials. Iblue and wlilla, yellow and black and rad ara for mnmanl lha gauaw will ha la atyla fur war ha to coin. tha Jnd btaph ara lh, nr weal dlgns In these m 'TT wooaui who appears la a gown whnaal' , . or twe idiailra of Idua having vary , , fP . difficult j gauges; firiilun la Just a IMUa ahwd af tha modow,J',J ,,,a effort of Mua and while ara ulao V? H are , , need at t. v, af that moment haa amuck la bo . "rl,(p,h' included among lha favorite patgowns Intended for! " air af superiority. fnr her gown may give (Ka afldniiUM " ,r,lw' g. ralhav aa O' c?l"r" JT .... Indication ofk.wlimt tha fhshtone of Wtin darker than will , The Soft Silk I for Lining. 'gown of olrlped gauie. In Iho llluatratlon. It la a fad of the moment to mnke three Striped Gaums Popular. made with what looka Ilka three aeparata malorlalo up over Iho ooft flnielied alike or R la aaw apparent that foulard allka ara aothlng Uka aa amart aa they were a faw left loos. It a moat oinking this. the taffeta eklrt lining will be found yaara ago. Tsffeta allka ao auperlor and of being one not raahly to be attempted a nuudi more talisfaotory one and aa inao emart an tha down- model, but weehe ago-a- re finitely more practical one. Thlo gown tr ut favor, f,.r the akin of thla epedal model by any one at all Inrltned to ha alout. ward path aa regmrda aarfualvoneaa. Thay The walat matches lhaakirt In iho turned not Intandod for smart and yet la quite long at the ctdee and In front, aa have been mada ap by tha hnndreda Into new Amine effect. with a deop ehlrred.lt altowo that tlie short eklrt. ao practical well aa in luck. Till atyle of eklrt I tlie tea many ready made ehlrt waiit coatumw hndtee while the eleevm are a aurrsasWm ini ao popular. In trembling In the be la. ice moat Impractical ekirt ever deelgnod, and for afternoons I li sea-- , fw ' I G rui-hln- g iing anlod,l n"1' '" 'J I ...... . ,,1, V y V ys vie t' s - li j n SLUZ CLOTH GOWI7 gi The Once the Bane of the Dainty Woman, Now Beautified by French Art. Union Suit, at the bottom. It ia quits humorous, -. ,ity of women If m did not don the flannel It ia to bs hoped that buckram, estiva. INCH the days bafore tbs of the old snuN-- pattern, ft hits Iwtiirt ths corset Itself, so tm- pel tiros i, cut strit.ghl. gathered, tucked, haircloth, moire, interlining, stoele end vtneUl genius of Jctineaa Mlltor ssml-ntucorsage, cut in tao pieces, a When on notes Then n rml. true woman munt wear iwul weights will never b resorted to again, it every nrtist hi lingerie has ex pert- - Mss yoke wllh a ctreulnr ruffle; under this! portent and so tiny. Inrad In frntit. with n mure Thai arc two other rutiles the whole net curved bock line mads of thin liMigrr "klrt' -- It wan not the ihtngitlie time ever comes when women value gieuud In Its almidlflrallon mmi-itone ran Ideal an of say "iirttlrouf in eplte of n favorite, more than at present tha ene of body imagine word simplw" os applied to un-- ! gather, not In ssim, hut with liisertlona-'lil-lt, inter nmif.irt hitherto only longed for. The author who lutdxts in a sickening manner which all men. insist upon enjoying It may tarmmr, brings up an Imago of a'and this la all! Hn-when all correct women tnsletsd on Hist his heroine, a very model of a liian-iebo very near, for now there Is almost noplain linen smock tvun a tnllk-- l Ths effect Is airy, dallratelv voluminous. era and layers of cambric nr -- horrible woman, ringed round with prill-- 1 chance of a woman being at all unenmpsrhapa. to a lay mind. But after a marvel f tine cut. a marcel of economy appre-cat- s ! tha Idea got to IWris a wild revel of dell-- 1 of material where material la not nrailsd.. thought muslin is Inrrrdlbls. If one wss reals." and thus convinced you of her lin- fort able, or to give up her et toot fa nr i m was let loose. Ths aimpleiand a marvel of abundance where II la ever near enough to the elect of the gbrne .miiculHln standing In fact, the skirt thus elated freedom of movement, proper of a generation ago snd fsr ha had to le reinforced by armies nfi The eklrt. which until lately was garment herwme aimpillled ertth Intention., protier. The question of propriety is not lutely hollows wit away here, fuder'amlm even In lingerie, and the French deal' could count three layers one would grow Inner skirts before it could he determined Ing tighter snd tighter, rvached Its limit gatherj'rhirfly In the rxuiibdln form of I heir c here weary from sympathy at those who hurt t be the wgn nr eeul feminity. One waa- of possibilities of lit. it could go no Curves left there, patience to aarnAc themselves thus., not enough. There waa always some eua- ther and remain a aklrt. Now, expandhits darts, aud these avoided 'Aeuvrm. Therefnra. even over a rom-ito- e woman mad it Mlinoet picion that mi single aklrt whs sort of ing. it still retains il ah ape. These apTha by ths skilful bios cutting of the linen, Mnsisnn" of 'raise apprsranre. it muat have been Jen- - parently full and Immeasurable garment tlio element of myatory cast it tnipoasthta for herself to move alioiii. bars finally mods of a French undergarment s woudor of mechanic as applied to charm. Ilerhapo the most ono could say First, It waa once considered necessary ness Miller and Iter predecessor, and then arc not ulmpty cut stN'ght and sewed toIs an amount of skill In the wear a complete "suU" of thick knltjtho bicycle, that cured women of the about lla practicability la that II to ade-jt- o lanes, laws, silk or mouoaollnc. gether. "Ureas reform" cannot bo translated Imo Fitanrk verbally. But the ptoueer who cut For the Convrntionilly Bound. out Uta Brat "combination" garmont. If sbe wees abve, would ba ashamed at Its For those who ore atill ronvenlUuially entdily while proud of It originality, tr bound, oven though they need no stronger bit of handkerchief linen she could see too one garment" whlch'bondo than Freneh wtt has evolved from that with Valencleunro, thlo novel iblnalsun" may tie dissolved into Its coin- beginning. pmis. Utile bits of French lawn Than Two Pound. Entire CJothin Le aeen tu be a charming cor- om for woman to -- .'aeparatad art 11 la poortbls wllh )uH,ted yoke. allJ an one undergarment, add her lnconidra-lru(nw- j tlwt, thrown over s chair, looks bis entoet of six and a half ounces In Ilka s fichu, is a I sullf ully cut. rlhtwn-rucircular pattlciisl. Or there may be. weight, and ba ready for her gown with Its ollkea drop skirt. The we:gltl uf the whale Instead of the corset cover, a ilrsr little . tell-A more tlutn two pound. reed not be garment that la e straight a the original Ing Knglten name Tor such a "comlilnai-- : smock, but liardlv so liutg tu- - substantial son" Imported from Paris would ba three mada a It I of the Sheerest nrgandie of In on." But thl would glva no Idas uf moucluiir Unon. Till I railed a veotee II cleverneas. for tho garment In queatlnn. and I Intended to wear underneath the a French manufacturer of lingerie II tat roily a little shirt with ribbon like a limlu vory It, dainty eiabnrg. mt Miuar. wllh flap like those of a man's ign I 5 il o d i.is , thr rudi-ruffl- 'Tnin-ments- ,wl hi, ry . u, rt. 0rO'l-O:.(XN0V0- O..OvONMK-0- 0 0 -- OVOt;vOVOt;'iO Cafe Brule, New After Dinner Drink to dt e it r the I'ghnng Us nor i$J '' . of . i I Cat and ihe Back Yard Philosophy tod to be a HERE centrecKa a quarter at s Ti sitting "y the aet that J1! - Il is fitted and full at ths soma time. No mors "full skirts cut with sllihtiy Ths way to get this effect depends at first tapering breadths and Joined to s bell! on the shave of the we 1st lino, for No straight flounces thickly gathered awl though Lha extrema dip lua gone out of clumsy, making strange wooden outiki fashion ths now Uouia XV. corset ara effects! But a beautiful sweep, a ton atill straight front In practice If not In whatever toe real or achieved name. The present line of too bolt of a line. Biss does m woman's dress Is a grsoeful one. It fol- breadth of too wearer. lows a sort of Imagined anatomy which mean shapelessness, and even rstrtws Is bettor titan s belt line with no consider- thinness may have Its consolation tf ation of anatomy at all. Perhaps after a lumtner. while, when It la discovered what It ia. A delightful trifle la ths msllnes the rani anatomy of a women will be per- - made subtle by a woman who Import the tbem mlttsd some exterior recognition, but until Combines d Krench ot then the present line of the wsl.t eem Jo This w with American Ingenious nee. convincing. waist- U th below a little short, coming The New Pftticoit. is of a diminutive Dolly Varden pattern, in To begin then, the new petticoat has a French lawn. Tiny wreaths of pink ro Imped top. This may ba one of those circle about what little of this Jacket on yokes of extreme elegance of shape men- cun one. a interstices between th lnl tioned above In connection with the of Itallan'laos, Tho sleeves are very short. corset (However, It 1 very abort, and displaying th dhow quite aatlsfactorti'. With thla la worn the new full skirt fulness le encouraged by slight shirring. Mo skilfully adjusted to Increase th figure the earn pattern, untrained, flounced,charm-the where It may bo necessary, or to soften much trimmed. To complete thla comm-ndgllgfe, the irregularities. According to toe length Ing and comfortable tha line of th thigh Is tha dJetance nelson, It hi eeld. wee made to match fr from thla yoke to tha flounre, broadly one (eetldloiia woman out of the unto Certilrlf speaking, for th aklrt la in three main dainty pink flowered material. divisions. Each division may be eoftenud tlie deep satisfaction that lies In bavin and made tn flow Into the next by etUiTing. .everything to match could not be bet'" Inst smaller ruffles, puffs. Th old fuatiloDud,appreciatedtoan bythe aesthetic taatetriflm puff is with us again, and It Is most useful could put together euch delightful In tilling tn toe severity of the seAm which .for summer wear out of one pretty P"'rI)-Join- s roiim one flounce to another. This Is Just With three of these eet a woman seir-sa-i' what the new aklrt la a succession of count on absolute comfort andof umtn flounce joined one to another, disguised, faction during the Intimary to a according to th slaboratsnssa of material, morning in her home, or to wear resort. from choice or from nceoaelly. jroom cl a summer thougi learned smell, unguarded spot, le n now eeeving.fgp good deal hustoree is small Mlvsr holder. uch trifle be and may window bach Hi of tha ordinary ef-dlnnor'iee-for on Ubrar; table to- g looking out Into the small, square e j snuggle down, thankful th followipg d!rtaua bv. card's used for moving scaling wax. on ttia fence, where closure city dwallera Innocently i m ortge. which afford a de'.'ghttol While too Uq'ior ta burning tore lumps! light can stream gratefully down bach yard cfituge. It I ppoparod by th bue'ee at ofS'igor are Odded. and tie whois gsnriv1 beck 1 eaemole. for ere th There The, cate, the table, the ingredient bring brought with a long handled muddsr ' hk.l Uf le a good beck yard seems to ba sacred to the eat.' And toe In on e tray by tt.o moll affor t ,4 for stirring chocolate When that dnsert;1,(HP a Occasionally one may be seen wandering; like a back fence wltt dohigh rgi been removed, and It a part of lhiiktqw has quits burned out ilia wiieni; le uf two piece. Cher a part of .restive prfudtre ftoy had for swathiog ' new full tklrt that they hiv never had In to street, hut usually to metropolitan and th wisest thing to or to ck the.f a gllwr trtfftw pot. which t placed t snjoyment of thii novelty s eat will be found haunting the rear end, end watch unto some th1 came heavy atockiugg Then came ir. thcoarse of The tiwmselve of nice before. atiffoned. k!ful flreera of to thick as h ntlx skirt layer gore, the cnd ,t ntp"tr appear end make the beatItof tnn t and stirs and pour th fragrant cup. ft;1T. sa etude In toe graca of l's upper shape of tho house. c. like the bo- mentioned mtria! b.to th sliver bowl, end ft .rheuilw. tr ' worn e bc'-- ' le bast for the hoetoe to Inspect the travith mlxturs lo s'rred Over th- to th prossnt iwccping. curv- - When the high fence that enclose the 'you con get, evenThanh tmock mi; 'it le tc compared peed lia rouon ror briruu 4 Goa tipi,T t.grber In 'for Then If lnn. to corset, full of Th ailvsr ceffr r.,t ho-i, yards bristle with spikes four Inches long, jhsart esn wish. fnr th warrora Cll-- , Jut hofoto ehe tsorive her fft-s- 's. f1da 0f tna tj fa.h- - ilng. abundant drapery. (l,. ,, order to he qiie aura that everything 1 I nontajn. for this amount of liquor, two sou wr- - real And tbi bring u to tbit last lirmrnl, put there by Inhospitable man fortheflenO-- , sleep, a little rood, you n'wsv wire I rinrd . aran,t now that theyi too r be luvnlioncd under the tills lsb purpose of depriving hi frilno neigh-- 1 un and tho rwltl of cover, oa far as posuV frotn tro ctiffre. wiu.-itoady end th torvice nnnplrts. hi l',-s.f stieig. bla-'rou rnstrd ni lolumlnou effects with 'which aPt the delight of their midnight prowl-- j b aq gotmal a man a the On e nisdiura slsi silver imr are placid, twaq ma.ix n a 'flUer twit. ' and t'irn k'-- r .w'l Hising one of the and "Ungsrie." The white petticoat, nr t'.iatjb,'r diy. llil an ,iiiM,k tUi,' ir or' cJch wad then oat cat flr th Aiiillnm and mu wnar ZT e decanter contabitlig fwo Jlggria" f.b.il. Slid i.iurrd Into the s1Ivt thing . whl.h t!i nfr howling, must he nearly Inah and mtliccej In t lw., thlnniw f t 'tl jiilk. tJ we lid It own development re told. Islviiild first In thortc.ig'i'y heuti-- , with b.g ."! buttoned and tnmine.1 writ a.wll c material, Fcenui brandy- - "Jlgg-w.- " V nij.lmtlcjlly. In shirt the K' nervous prnttrtlm ver U? Not Biwn. I dr im in he'h-veronklo too ho a may lfcmever Il Whet be an nr Injustice season. as la tiwtvy. of Inin th&t hive tiecom before the Hamburg! and curried imv water. many ordinary composed liquor glassful Jitat it of .nt'ier .inl. tr.iy fi.t In the bulk hirg of oiouboi. In e (f does i tl.imbu'-was the f- 'Htii Paine! w, gtnning quickly IntoA011 sliver bo I in tneltbe dining nm. of these of yards f circumferenue a tlie dreeeniskar furry breast. It makes no sign,to nor ,llt serving tins c r down he 11! hour It "waste Its little middle of th tray are some entail hit uftiruie. or "brnndy coffee," one aii.iuld bni'.vor.te mnterlal f.v triminiuga e general mn trying the cutomcr to wr.ir. oven a few weiaM I In pcrtuaJ ;h effect of volumtn-niS- ' the nlscine lick elniuuum. and un s smnll cm glass a act of the small Turkish 1 ips which are.or so ago Not low--othat was elni.t ,)uaa . spike, os a man would probably do. netful Just now. may ,tnay be trimmed with ikiuhle tha numlxr;on atosimilar m,. water ta dried. Xf th ro' r.u'-.t- . for extra criMsiniis a bsll he oht.iin .1. f',.r., ,, ,mr slrlrf will soon .uf yards of lace, ribbon, embrnidery, ruf-jl-n trar ara placed several position. Far from tt. of toif mminml In delicate llitl silver csrojit teheatnl, Pu of tn ton surly :le and flounce, hut It must be shapely.! It Juot welts ar.il watches and makes theifresh, not flsa to os mii h as Miy mouto 1411. Tha nittnti uf the smull de- - or the drink my h scrci-,gissws m- or a ac.tilliig a psper bag, It must hsvs srncc. ft nutsf avoid tiivlbcsi of some other place, until oeme-jl- n dinner coffee cups uf any m Uvc these cir.ter an turned lr.to th howl, bsingifn but r ,t im tiefo-lligi gre already nlrrtics, ..r overt tat so. and or a to spike the biwsas mue aorhiilrssnpie hv snumsriiilon' ur.e was sul'J'wl w ill n t w. ig'r 'hag ttp tight; dislodge happens lmrd over the stl k iiassmon. snd thnehfs. Of quarter uf what they "nquere" link llw; the clothe f tl.s minutes. oa or da Ion ten Uta Itqaor la lighted wih a hft of aaslqulchly, or to bevrrag too; ft d to eon'. Then, eeeing,lt chance, then. ti disapproval uf the entlna comm v sophisticated a qpt to Vlay. fa! t- ll 'ird potntw 1 ;unfsrir : hr.-.e- i : - se s'es nn. t, ldr ,,,vnq r-- 11 r:nfrt hc-l- . sia-tll- res 111 sf:r I coir, mrtr - :ts . w-1- n-.f.- bt 'f un-ln- r ,jir h. sq-a- ty hvy ! Jlgr : I d-- . uti t e. ng tos |