|Paper||Ogden Morning Examiner|
|Rights||No Copyright - United States (NoC-US)|
|Publisher||Digitized by J. Willard Marriott Library, University of Utah|
|Paper||Ogden Morning Examiner|
NEW PARASOLS DEFY ADJECTIVES AND TEMPT PURSE- SALL the kuoo'i accessories end it is distinctly a season of extravagance in small things nothing will prove more tempting to the average woman than the dainty array of parasols for any and all occasions. There arc parasols for the woman who travels and the woman who stays at home; parasols for the real summer girl who loiters on beach or in mountain retreat; parasols for suburbanites; parasols for the very rich, to whom real lace snd hand painting seem essential, and parasols for the woman of smaller purse who still revels in the complete and harmonious costume. Parasols there are, too, for the shirt-wai- st suit, which are prim, demure, neat; just as circumspect as the others, but a trifle more elegant, and they are ready for the church or calling costume. Rioting in lace, applique and shirrings, they are ideal for the garden party or the summer wedding. And in smaller patterns, but equally dainty of manufacture, they come for the wee maid whose g dressing is a source of constant, delight to her proud mothrr All the fads in dress trimmings appear in the new parasols. Taffeta is tucked, hemstitched or fagoted. Chif OF ever-varyin- fon is shirred and niched. Satin is buried in appliques, or delicately ribpainted. To match the Dresden and bons so popular for sashes, bows chow, come parasols, each of whose eight sections is woven in a design showing flowers or fruits in graceful bouquets and bunches. And the really remarkable fact amid this riotous confusion of sunshades, is that, except in extreme cases and designs, they are within the means of the average woman who can afford to plan a representative summer wardrobe. At all the importing parlors, summer costumes are shown complete to gloves, hosiery and hat; and after making the rounds of these attractive shops, a woman realizes that the parasol must be cn suite. For example, a blue and white checked shirt-waisuit, trimmed with straps of plain blue silk, stitched in white, was shown with a rough white sailor, trimmed with dark blue racking and stiff quills, and a parasol that cleverly reproduced the effect of the costume and hat The ferrule was hidden by a dark blue ruching, next to which came the plain cover of blue and white checked silk in the same size as the check in the dress, h and on the edge was a heavy, band of plain, dark blue silk, stitched in white, to match the ornamental te st five-inc- stitching on the straps of the gown. A clever leading woman ot a reigning musical comedy success planned her summer costume for the stage on exactly these lines, and the design is worthy of consideration at tne hands of women in private life. She wears a morning gown of heavy white handkerchief linen, inset with linen lace, outlined with linen floss. The jseket matches the skirt, and the blouse and half sleeves are of fine lingerie flounces, showing Valenciennes lace and insertion. With this she wears a modified picture hat of Neapolitan braid, cut down to lines which barely suggest the short back sailor. This is faced with stiff little lingerie flounces to match the undersleeves of the blouse, but plaited to make them a bit more severe. The top of the hat ip' trimmed with rich cardinal red velvet ribbon, and tucked under the left side of the brim, among the white ruffles, are cherries, shading from green to rich cardinal red. With this she carries a parasol of white taffeta, in each section of which is woven an enticing bunch of cherries.. The narrow band of crimsi.n taffeta, which edges the parasol, tones perfectly with the cherries, and noveau art cherries are apparently tied carelessly to the light wood handle. A more elaborate costume cn suite a Persian or Dresden stripe, five is shown for afternoon wear, and is inches wide. A stunning tailored parsutable for the summer wedding or asol for the girl who can wear plaids should go with a plaid silk shirtThe Jras'is in pink of the palest waist suit, in which sage or The ferrule is buried tint, built from accordion pleated and predominates. shirred mousseline, and trimmed with in a mass of plain green silk ruching, insertion of delicate Oriental lace. A next to which circles plaid silk, fin picture hat of pink chiffon, draped ished off with seven tucks, each an with Oriental lace and caught with inch wide, of the plain silk, the tucks, the parasoL tiny pink buds, and a parasol of pink of course, running around the chiffon shirred in an intricate design, In other plaid parasols arrangewith diamonds forming the central ment is reversed, the tucked plain figure around the ferrule, give the silk being next the ferrule and the finishing touch to this dainty pink plaid on the edge, dividing the parasol cover about in half. confection. summer efFor half mourning, the array of d For the fects in silk and wash goods, a hun- black and white parasois is simply dred designs in parasols arc shown. bewildering, but popular favor seems For instance, to be carried with a to ran to the solid background edged pongee, embroidered in green dots with a broad band of wtaue, in which and trimmed with green velvet rib- dots or stripes are shown. For more bons, there comes a parasol of pon- dressy wear, there arc white silk pargee, dotted with green velvet disks, asols, heavily draped in black lace; or embroidered in heavy disks of white chiffon parasols, with innumerable ruffles, each edged with a deep silk. suit of navy blue ruching of black chitfon or lace, and For a shirt-wai- st taffeta trimmed in white stitching and black silk, appliqued with white lace of lace, there medallions or chiffon motifs. with white Lavender in various shades also apis a sunshade of dark blue taffeta, banded with a blue and white check, pears, combined with black and while the white predominating, with small for half mourning, but it must be used polka dots marking the crossing of with discretion, as the light cast by a lavender parasol is extremely trythe lines. To wear with a white silk or serge ing to the complexion. In the more suit, comes white taffeta banded with expensive lavender parasols, the effect tea-gre- en demi-tailore- half-sleev- es sag is softened by clouding the lining with with elaborate half chiffon or lace. css lace. The pictuTTh" of This tendency to trim both the out- satin straw, very flat and of fine side and the inside of the sunsha-lis weave, is wreathed in blush one of th extravagances of the sea-- its to, d 0( e Ridiculous little ruffles, finished with stitched hems and a tiny heading, sometimes snuggle close and thick all over the inside of the parasol, and they are the most durable iorm of inside trimming. Both chiffon ruffles and lace arc apt to catch in the ribs when the parssol is raised. When chiffon is used, it is shirred so ss to cover completely the ribs, and often esch section ci the shirring is outlined by the smallest of ruse buds in the orduiary artificial flower or evolved from chiffon. A costume which will make its first appearance on the Newport Casino grounds is of soft, clinging white silk, with a loose casino coat of berre lace over silk, trimmed with silk cord ornaments. The para-o- l to match is of taffeta, overlaid wiih the lace, laid in shirring, outlincJ with fine white cord to match the ti minting and ornaments of the coat. A trying hut striking costume, destined for an al fresco wedding, has a shirt and blouse of acordion-- i Suited chiffon, trimmed with bands of delicate chiffon applique in pale pink,' white and sage green. With this is worn a Dircctoire coat of pink moire, of the chiffon applique to used in the skirt and WoSE tuning white, pale pink end green in illusive colorings For a chiffon frock, hand-psi-.- ,, in poppies, there is shown a of white taffeta, bordered in whl satin and applied with sprays of nnZ py bloom in two shades of s eZZl chiffon, wuh hearts of black e caught with gold thread. Grass linen in natural tone is in favor with those who can seal to pay well for an afternoon frock A parasol of grass linen to match a frock shows the linen stretched such owi an apple-gree- n taffeta ground. Th, linen is embroidered in silk polk, dote, matching the green silk beneath it, and a ruching of plain green duff is joined to the parasol with a head ing of chiffon applique, showing rsu green and pale pink tints. - ; - 1 - W V;.-- , . v ' . . 4. hi v . V V 5 r 'I ,te The parasol which gives t.. e . touch to this imported of pink moire, exactly matching. coat, with a border, of duchess 1 lace like that shown in thePhH sleeves. The border of lace is 11 r . , son. r- - ft S w. iv t v 1 a. i t i v vvi ir Lavender Ducheeae with lace jpplique. ON THE OTHER SIDE OP LIFB er five-roo- m m m m -- SPECIAL GOWNS FOR BRIDGE. In England, where bridge whist is played among the high and the low, BRINGING SKIRTS BY ANNA 8. RICHARDSON. IMILY ANNS certainly hav- was busy heating shaving water for in her full share of trou- the gent in the second floor back. If a few friends in for the bles, said Josiah Bascom, Jenny invited she found that the young evening, resting his feet against the ladies in the third floor front had two nickel railing of the base-burnand young men in the parlor and Jenny her friends adjourned to the dininglaying the letter he had been reading and -room in the basement. on his broad knee. And there was Jenny and Harry, What's gone wrong now? asked Mrs. Bascom, as she jerkedlier rock- He joined a wheel club in the summer ing chair closer to the circle of lamp- and a social club in the winter and never came home except to change light and opened the stocking bag. his clothes. But Jenny couldn't get Jennys run away." "Lawzee, Josiah, it cant bel" Men- away so easy. It was dishes to help ders, balls of darning thread and scis- wash at night, ironing to do, and if she wanted to go to the theatre or sors slid unnoticed to the ground. Jetsol Run away from home an trolley riding, Emily Ann would look set up housekeepin for herself in two at her reproachful and remark that furnished rooms. Emily Anns clean children didn't care how their parents broken-hearte- d over aech an exhibi- slaved. And there was Jenny and Harry tion of ingratitude and disrespect. When a young uns got to set a house paying the same board as the folks of her own before she's married, and in the first floor front and the back live away from her folks, there's parlor, sleeping in beds that their mother never had time to make, eatsomething wrong." Mrs. Bascom was gathering np her ing what happened to be left over, and hearing nothing but complaints scattered belongings. Yes, I noticed there was something from the mother they were willing to support within the limit of their earnwrong the last time I was down. You. didn't mention it, Betty." ings I And Jenny had a right to her evenNo, Im no hand to stir up mischief in my own family and Emily ing's rest.. She put in nine good hours s day at the store, on her feet Anns your sister. Well, Jenny ought to stayed with every minute, too. But every time she her mother through thick and thin. and Emily Ann had words shed She owed her that mnch for her come home with a little pffesent. a nice fresh waist or a pretty stock, that bringin np." I seen days while I was visiting at her mother never took time to dress Emily's when I kinder think Jenny up in. Fact is, Emily Ann got so she wished her motherd never brought looked like a cheap hired girl, with her work never done and her hair , her into the world. It ain't saying, either, that Jenny never half combed. took me One night Jenny to see hasn't got her faults. She is neither better nor worse than most girls some of her friends, three girls that raised in big cities, where good kept house in one of the little flats she was crazy to get for dothea are the standard by which sofas for youre measured, but Emily Ann had her mother. They had flatand a gas her failing, too. Theyd lived beyond beds and cheap pictures their income before James died, al- stove, and a bird and some other Ann didn't have ways thinking he'd have a better job things that Emily even in her brown-ston- e boarding the next year and catch up. When he died, I reckon the two house, and Jenny kept watching them children had had just enough educa- with eyes that was just naturally huntion in that business college to see gry. And when we got home that that the folks in the they couldnt keep up the big three night we found story house, like forty others on the hack parlor had lit out while Emily same street. So they wanted to move Ann was 'getting dinner, owing her into a small flat, and sell what furni- two weeks board. And Jenny she ture they would not need. But Emily just put her head on my shoulder Ann she was set to stay in that when we got alone and cried. brown-ston- e There goes the money for my front, and she didri't see sobbed. Mamma anything she could part with, and had spring suit, she hysterics. So Harry arid Jenny gave cant make up the rent now they've in. She said she'd take roomers, but skipped out. Aunt Betty, if this keeps the roomers insisted upon - being on. I'll go somewhere and I guess boarders, and as Emily Ann in her you can thank your stars, Josiah Basyour niece went to two furanxiety to fill the house didn't have com, that sense enough to charge living rates, nished rooms and a gas stove, instead of the devil. they swarmed into the house. Now, as you sold that roan team First thing you knew, Harry had for a pretty fair profit, I think the bark hall bedroom on the third to-din better the Ann was go down to New York you'd sleeping floor, Emily and talk sense to Emily and Jenny had the skyligdining-rooht-room. You ain t ever seen a Ann. When you've eaten one meal at in New York. Josiah, her untidy table and slept in that skylight-rooBout as skylight-rooJenny used to have I and you can't understand. side big as our potato bin, lighted from sort of think you'll see the other side. overhead and the dingiest walls ever. of this here argument Jennys And when Jenny wanted her And if you're going to make that 6.45 in a hurry train morning which yon breakfast in the morning, to get to the store. tu-- . her mother ire I think we'd better luck up. ay White chiffon end narrow scarlet velvet ribbon. Green velvet dote on pongee. The woman who has a good cloth skirt of light weight, such as voile, etamine or nuns veiling, left from last summer can bring it up to the mark of prevailing fashions by the dexterous adjustment of taffeta or peau de soie trimmings. If she is a tall woman and desires a from alternate strips of the cloth and yoke effect she can build the yoke taffeta. If panel effects are desired, the stitched bands of silk can be so laid as to simulate panels. But the great point of divergence between last seasons skirt and this the years lies in the vent. Last year n vent was fastened by hooks and eyes. This year it is comefpletely covered by a fect. To secure this effect in the made-ovskirt, lay on a box pleat of the same silk used in trimming, narrow at the waist line and flaring slightly toward the hem of the skirt. This is fastened tight to the skirt, and cannot be detected from the same effect in cloth. Nor does it give a botched effect to the garment, or made-ovbecause of the general prevalence of silk trimmings in every imaginable form. Shirred pink chiffon. ICE CREAM AND WATER ICES BY MADAME DE RYTHER. the modern patent ice same as coffee ice cream, but use half One of the queerest of many freezers, which ar; a pound of sugar and half a pound grated chocolate, and do not strain queer superstitions in the West Indies in every it, as the chocolate dissolves with the is that of the Rubba Mumma, or shop, the making heat. river mother, of Jamaica. While the of ice cream, water ices and sherbets colored people laugh to scorn the idei at home is one of the simplest of all 'Strawberry Ice Cream. Mash fine and of ocean mermaids, many of them through a sieve a pint of culinary tasks. And with the once fine, press ripe strawberries; add one pound firmly believe that water nymphs intiresome and complicated process of of powdered sugar and a teaspoonful of the habit every fountain-hea- d mountain streams which are so numerous making one's own ice cream so sim- of extract of vanilla. Stir the fruit the in their island. plified, there is no reason why every pulp and juice with the sugar till then stir in graduIn the old slavery days the sources woman keeping house should not lattera is dissolved; of such streams were worshipped and ally pint of rich cream till all inmake her own frozen desserts. are well mingled. Next sacrifices offered to the "Rubba Muni-mgredients There is one thing certain. The whole in a freezer and the The slaves on the plantations pour woman who makes her own ice cream freeze. used to persuade their overseers or knows what she is eating. Ice cream masters to sacrifice an ox at the fountaiis an inexpensive dessert, and costs n-head of the stream which turned Peach, Apricot and Raspberry, less when made at home than it does aO the wheel of the sugar mill, so that Wash Petticoats With Linen Frocks. when the manufacturers. Banana Ice Creams. These are fur at bought made after the directions given drought might be averted. Unless the used take hours to It and hours to From Paris come the newest things make and freeze ice Rubba Mumma was propitiated, the strawberry ice cream. cream. Now slaves contended, she would not send iu wash petticoats to be worn with can be made and served in an hour. it from nlade are frocks. linen down enough water to turn the mill. They In making water and fruit ices use Plain ice cream with vanilla flavorOn most of the sugar estates a bul- chambrey or batiste in pale blue, pale is excellent. is also delicious a sugar syrup made as follows: It ing lavender color. The and tan lock was annually killed for this pur- pink, Put four pounds of granulated sugar when made with coffee or upper part of the skirt fits snugly, by pistache, but the chocolate, in a sauce pan over the fire, add a pose. most delicious of The Rubha Mumma is still believ- the aid of a yoke, but the flounce is all creams are those made with fruits. quart of cold water, and stir till the ed in, and in time of drought the peas- very full and bouffant, being designed Of these the cream takes sugar is- dissolved. Let it simmer ants still sacrifice a goat or a chicken to assist the flare of wash frocks. The the lead, but strawberry from ice a cream, one agently till it hairs when dropped peach to her. She is said to be marvellous- flounces are a mass of handwork in made with from the then it remove spoon; and a red raspbananas, punched patterns bottles skin, the ly beautiful, with a berry ice cream are all delicious, re- lire, and, when cool, pour it in long black hair and soft blue eyes. popular in the early sixties. and keep it corked till ready for use. and freshing nourishing. in various Ifoles are sizes, She comes out of the water at noon punched Pinked Rnching for Hats. The American ice, cream is better stitched heavily, day, sits down on a rock in the then button-hol- e than any other; it is just pure Strawberry Ice. Press a quart of The girl who is undecided about every encirflower with sprawling designs raven and combs tresses. her stream, fine, ripe strawberries through a sieve, sweetened the trimming for her new sailor hat If and cream, then flavored, lorn sees her and cling tne holes. The pale colors, pink, frozen. French ice cream is add a pint of sugar syrup and the may safely select the heavy, pinked theirany Peeping really he ss blasted upon the blue and lavender, are embroidered and meet, of one large lemon, stir the mixryes juice made frozen a at are These of made only easily custard, ruenings. being but if she does not hapren to stitched in white linen floss, the favorture strain it again through a well, milk and home from taffeta silk or velvet rib- spot; cooksweetened and eggs ite decora lion for the see him it is all right. then sieve, ed crown put it in tne freezer, and around the before run As and a rule the bon, freezing. may Food is sometimes taken to the skirts being a striking combination of French creams freeze to directions. is according it. who contain no cream. The girl or across willing river-hea- d tl ere for the Rub- white and black. To make a nice, to take a little extra time in mak- ba Mumma.and left ice vanilla plain The natives will not sugar Orange Ice. Mix a pint of cream, large enough for dinner for a ing her toilet can have ruchings in eat the fish of the rivers which she The New Handkerchief Kimonas. with the juice of six medium-sizif- d small various tints to match her gowns, as syrup take one of fresh family, quart for they are supposed to be Kimonas made from large, souare cream, sweeten it with two oranges. Grate in the rind of a few stitches serve to fasten them in inhabits, of her children. It is said that wherever stand have taken a new twist powdered sugar, and add cupfuls two tea- two oranges and let the mixture place. For the sailor of ordinary size the river nytnph resides, provided the handkerchiefs this season. Instead of brilliant ban spoonfuls of extract of vanilla. Stir for five minutes, then strain through a h a ruching is wide enough, fountain is combinadeep and blue, there is a dana and the and plaiting ia more effective than table of with a fine sieve isand freeze. at which she dines. tions of dark blue and white, or vivid this mixturer, ratheror gently pure gold an endless variety of we There with a small shirring. It is an enchanted table, and al sun red and white, the most delicate color- patent ices and sherbets, but the creams, cream whip, till the sugar is quite dishot" (noon) it vises for a moment ing are seen. here rules for a few may he given it into a solved; then freezPersian Embroidery Neckwear. above the surface of the water and ot The centre of the handkerchief er, and freezeputit accordingpatent in followed preparing more to the di- safely Lace does not monopolize the field quickly sinks again. shows delicate pink, blue, green, yel- rections, which them. always come with the in stoles, stocks snd collars, for Perlow or lavender, with a dainty border freezer. When the fruit is very sweet, Not a Bake Shop. sian bands and Bulgarian embroidery in pale Persian colors or Dresden ef or syrup should be used. The sugar is It not dinwait to till are both fashioned into neck accessorI want a removal sign painted and feet, with the color of the centre pre ner time to necessary additions of a little mound of whipped ice eat cream. There is m ies. A quaint stole, for wear with a Im in a dreadful hurry. said the phydominating in the conventional or more delicious or acceptable cream to a dish of fruit ice cream pongee suit, was built from bands of sician's wife, as she bustled into a floral design. Another difference in nothing a In making on great a warm summer improvement day than a dish creams and Persian embroidery. alternating with sign painters establishment. I want the style lie in the fact that the points ices, use only the best ot braid in the same tone a plain tin sign, painted black, with of the handkerchiefs are brought to of ice cream at almost any hour. an open-wor- k materials. as the pongee, simulating Mexican white letter, and I'll wait for it." the neck line and then turned over to French Coffee Ice Cream. Grind drawn work. The stole ends fell to collar. well, madam. said the brash form a small, shawl-shape- d Very A Doubtful Japanese Compliment two ounces of coffee quite coarse, and the waist line and ended in many handler, did you bring your lunch? stir it into a pint of rich cream in Some of the similes we use in Engdo I could A no. Tool Basket. Womans dainty tassels, showing the natural Why, thought you a double boiler over the fire. When lish to admiration seem pongee tint and all the colors used it in a very few minutes." For the newly inspired woman gar- the cream comes to a boil, remove it doubtful toexpress who have learnin the embroidery. foreigners It may take several hours to dry. dener, particularly if she has just come um the stove and let it stand covered ed the as, jjr academically, language in oven?" it ihe But can't you put into possession of a suburban home, till it is quite cold. Then beat a pound A voice like a silver bell, How to Improve a Taffeta Coat asked the woman, impatiently. there are basket for garden tool of powdered sugar to a cream and also example, or A complexion like alabaster. Madam. said the painter, with dig- in the stores that are a For turning the simple black taffeta joy to the the yolks of six eggs. Stir in a pint But thi sometimes works hot" no we is do this a shop; nity, paint The nearis the basket of cream. Put this mixture in a dou- ways. When foreigners translate cocoat into a really dressy garment, tidy housekeeper. here." baking as a twice little stoles is it wide, made ble boiler over the fire, and when it lloquial expressions of their own lanlong ly shops are offering quaint of stout wicker, and lined with water- comes to the boiling and shoulder canes of broadcloth, eminto English too faithfully, tnt point strain the Porch. For the bulliShady broidered in silk floss and gold proof cloth. On one side are pockets cream with the coffee through a fine guages result is apt to be startling. on.- A fetching design shows a round For porches which do not suffer and straps for holding such tools as strainer into the mixture over the A young Japanese naval officer sy but the of broadblue the the intrusion trowel, from of collar sunlight, the fire. pruning knife, Then turquoise remove the kettle from the' tended a European ball in Nagas1-Hcape cloth. embroidered in tan and gold, are dim ami shadowy, the popular seiors, the hammer, tarred twine, fire, and when the cream i cold freeze danced several times with exand finished all the way around with furnishings this season are in brilliant wooden and parchment labels, and it according to the directions on the daughter of an American Consul, silk fringe, which com- red rush wear. It comes in lounging even a memorandum book and pencil. freezer. a four-inc- h . pressed hi admiration thns: bines blue and tan. Stole ends of chairs, settees, tabourettes, foot stools The other side will hold a potted "You dance sweetly, miss, just I's -wai-tables. afUTiiu.iii anil nr the line. tea ur lim. red, t plant rut flowers. niueul.ite ice cream is made tin: a dug." fringe conic almost in of-(h- a. well-hidde- box-pleat- bridge frocks are now offered by modistes, and it is said that quite a number of wealthy women in America have ordered special gowns for bridge parties. As bridge usually follows dinner or lunch, the gowns partake of the fashions suitable for either of these functions, with a few slight deviations. For bridge, there must be no long, dangling sleeve tc interfere with the cards, but the puff must be built from the elbow to the shoulcuff below. der, with a tight-fittin- g For the dinner-bridg- e gown, a low decollete is exceedingly bad form, and the transparent yoke or the small, round neck are preferable. Soft, clinging fabrics are most in favor. WITH house-furnishi- er er lily-whi- te ed ' tan-color- ed - five-inc- egg-beate- e wtoita . - '- m smia 111 wnu.ii-tn- e greemslt blue.