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Show Styles in Hats IRDLED BY WATER RUSSIA H0LDS ELABORATE SYSTEM OF FIGHTING Ftr.E. RAILROAD'S second place Second Only to United biates in the Matter of Greatest Railroad Mileage. If it is a question of bigness the Russian railroad system is far and away the first in Europe. There are already ninny more miles of railway in the vast empire Ihan in any other in the world excepting Him niii-Stales, and Russian railways are still only in their iiifaiicy. It is of course quite true that I here are now In the I'uiti-Stales mors iiiili-of road limn in all Europe and almost us many us in all (lie rest of the world pul together, and that our errllury is so large and aa yet so far from tumplote development that we shall probably keep the lead as ar as railroad i is concerned for a long time lu none. ltut In taking these large views, says Yiiiody's Magazine, we have forgotten tlmt Russia is two and a half imes as large aa all the I'nlted States put' together with a population more than half us large again as our own; that in territorial ex'ent it is mure Ilian twice us large as all '.uriqie; that it stretches across the world for 170 degrees of longitude nearly half way around the globe and Hint it includes of Hid land Hiirfaee of Hie planet. It is not surprising that in such a country railroads should have hud a large development, that alrendy there is a considerable mileage and that the prospects In this direction scorn to have no limit. In Hie future Russia uud Hie United States are likely to divide tlic railroad of the empire world between them. nn-rel- Than Seven Miles of Large Water Mains Surround Their Ex- More pensive Machine and Car Shops at Mechanical Center. 7 lV MlJl'lI froiil do 1 11ml lo put determine the efficiency of its system of fire protection, one of the great railroad lines of the country has uudertaki ii a thorough test of its lire lighting at its facilities To own up? This is n question which obtrudes itself upon the average young man wlio finds himself among his fellows on the competitive basis that exists in the modern large business. If the (iicslior were put to me in this form as a generality, I should be tempted to answer it in the same terse style: w J ust as much as the tratlic will bear! I dont wish to destroy the conventions. Conventionality is n good thing so long as it is in harmony with conditions of fact. But hugging the conventional too long as an ideal must to that person who in doing so loses his sense of dcstruciive prove proportion. For .example, the model office boy 40 or 50 wears ago carefully untied the string from a parcel and more painstakingly removed the manila wrapping from it, with the idea of preserving both string and wrapper for future use. Frankly, I would lie pleased if conditioua now office boy in modem business. were such as to admit of this But they are not, and to teacli the jwdential small office boy this old convention in effect would be lying to him. So it is with much of the conventional generality of the old school which is still preserved by the didactic teacher. True worth must prove itself yes. But where and how? That best and squarest street car con ducior in all of a vast city', grown gray in the collection of passenger fares for liis company, unquestionably has proved his true worth as a street ;ar conductor ! But could not this same measure of true worth have been better expressed in some other field of community usefulness? That finest individual type among 10,000 street car conductors must be capable of aomething better than running a street car for 20 or 30 years. Why did he not discover a better field in which to prove himself and his worth ? At bottom it is the ego in a man, kept well in hand, which makes the individual man here and there tower as an individual above the heads v of the masses. Set two men at work upon two tasks that are identical in a general way. In one of them egotism is at a low ebb; in the other it is at high tide, coupled with an imagination. One returns to you silently, having done his work in a manner that is highly satisfactory in every way. The other, having accomplished no more thun the first, returns to you with a cheerful story of the difficulties and handicaps which he found in his way. Pleasingly he recounts jint how judgmatically and del ermincdlv he tackled these obstacles and overcame them. And in words or in acts and expression he has left the intimation that, no matter what ihe difficulties of his work in the future, you may depend upon him to carry out his work. Which of these two men granting that the ego ist has offered no more than the traffic will bear has impressed you more ? And if these men continue with you as employes the egoist playing upon you with fine tact and discrimination, which of them aftei a year or two re you more likely to choose for lbs difficult task? headquarters whore there has S7CI go out often and who feel a dressier model unnecessary. It is a beautiful hat for church wear. Worn with bright, dressy gowns, ii will serve for a- - multitude of social occasions. In fact a hat of this character is very generally useful and comes nearer to answering ail requirements, than any other sort. In Fig. 3, a tailored hat la shown. The shape Is nobby and mannish and la covered wllh plain taffeta silk shirred onto the frame. This and similar shapes are shown covered with the moire and corded silks which are found on all kinds of millinery this season. For these hats the trimming is of the very simplest character. It amounts to only a finish of some sort. A band and flat bow of velvet, kid or ribbon. Sometimes a buckle or other ornament la used. A simple rain proof feather la not out of place, but the best effects are those in which feathers and flowers are conspicuous by their absence. This is the hat for costume for the street the tailor-mad- e and for traveling. In the estimation of many people of excellent laate and Judgment, it la the sort of millinery which should be worn at church. It Is smart. Inconspicuous and well made, like a tailored gown. Thoae hats that are made of plain silk are easier to keep from dust than the shirred varieties. In passing It should be remembered that hats must ha dusted with very soft brushes or wiped off with a scrap of plush or Nothing la quite ao good aa a piece of silk plush for keeping mil liuery clean. The three hats Illustrated here are entirely different from each other. Each one Is typical of one of the three distinct classes of millinery the dress hat, the semi-dres- s bat and the utility" hat. Mlllinera usually distinguish these classes by the terms dress hats, trimmed hats and tailored hats. Fig. 1 is an example of the "dress'' hat, which we are all prone to call a pattern hat It Is a chamois colored felt trimmed with marabout down and coque feathers; not an extreme example of dainty and fragile millinery, but too light and too elaborate for ordinary wear. The time when one hat had to do service for all occasions, la long past. This hat and others of Its class are out of place for general wear. If one can only afford a single hat, she must turn her face resolutely away from this character of millinery. A trimmed hat which will be very generally useful is shown In Fig. 2. It la of black corded silk trimmed with a very large bow made of black taffeta silk, having the ends fringed out The bow Is mounted with a large bunch of black silk violets at one aide and the hat Is one of those becoming new shapes which turn up In the back and are lifted. In a slight angle, from the brow. These silk hats come In all the season's fashionable colors, so that one's choice is not limited In the matter of color. White hats with black facings (and the reverse) are made up with black trimming into models of great distinction. This hat Is a good choice for women who do not ed vel-ve- n" i PRINCESS COSTUME It is a sad but true fact that few men or women are able to enjoy the careless, dreamless sleep of a child. It is also a fac that if men and women would do goo t work and have pleasure in the doing of it, sleep, and plenty of it, is essential. And i is another and more serious fact that, probably owing to the strenuous life of the insomnia is more prevalen world been lefore. ever has than it I Tow to defeat this lmgliear is the question and it is one that has been answerec by authorities in numbers of ways. But when technical terms and learned treatises are all simmered down they may be confined within a few simple rules that, if carefully followed ont, are most effectual when sleep is desired. In the first place, the sleeping room should be away from noise. I should be an airy room and one in which there is but little furniture am few rugs. It should have neither artificial light, flowers, nor animals an should be well ventilated, as much air being admitted in winter as during the summer months. The bed should be slightly inclined from head to foot and a moderately hard mattress is desirable. If any pillow at all is used it shoulc be a thin one. The heavy, downy affairs into which the head sinks are undesirable for more reasons than one. They lend toward making a person round shouldered and the position they give to the neck interfecse with circulation. There is much diversity of opinion as to whether one should or shouh before going to bed. Usually it is better to retire an hour or so eat not after eating. It iB never wise, however, to attempt to sleep when hungry. In a case of this kind a cracker and a cup of warm milk are desirable. The limbs should always be outstretched never cramped or folded, and one should sleep on the' right side. Sleeping on the back is apt to produce nightmare and sleeping on the left side stops digestion and is bad for the heart. It is not good for the lungs to sleep on one's stomach. Often a cold shower hath followed by a vigorous rub down with a Turkish towel will induee sleep when a person is inclined toward insomnia. RUSSIAN CAFTAN MUCH LIKED Practical Fashion Has Been Eagerly Taken Up and Made a Sea- sons One of the newest and most practical of fashlona that are being adopted Is the Russian caftan, a coat-lik- e garment which Is similar to that worn by Tolatoy, the great Russian author. In pictures, with which we are familiar. The coat haa a round or square neck, a slightly blouaed bodice part and a straight bottom edge that enda just above the kneea. It Is confined at the waist line by a satin be.lt; or, to make It more realistic, a silk cord. The edges of the coat are bound with satin; for winter garments bands of fur will be used. The fastening Is of ornamental or perfectly plain buttons and satin cord or braided to-da- y, We have all felt the soul touch of John Howard Paine's fragrant lines, Mi . tlio and we palaces roam,-andpleasures may again, Ie it ever so hn.nble. hut tc bring the home with the ring of true metal into our own lives, to live with others, stranger folk, to make sweet home brik out of straws and ofttimes inliarnmnimi? straws at that, let more of the girls tell iw how they have done it. Mods. Just been finished a tu-high pressure water system for lire protection pursises only, and wiiho.it connect inns with any oilier distribution pipes. Tlml it is of great liniHirtiince that this system should have been developed limy lie in the realized fuel that a con there llugrution would seriously interfere with (lie op eration of the entire system, the city la its mechanical center, the insurable value of the machine and car shops, with the equipment in adjacent yurda. is more than lie-side-s, $(i,000.i 100. Gridlrouing the expensive machine and car shopB are more Ilian seven miles of large water mains, with 72 two and three way hydrants, supply' lug 184 streams of water. These at ford a protection which, from exhaustive tests, has been hIiowii to make very remote the imaslbiltty of a serious fire. In addition to two fire engine companies, chemical extlngulahera are distributed through the shops, while sand and water palla, hose racks, chemical englnea, water casks and ladders add to the equipment with which these railroad lire fighters are armed. Some hose 31,000 feet of cotton rubber-linela available for utilizing Hie water from the hydrants, which, owing to the arrangement of the mains and valves, cannot lie shut off from their water supply by breaks In the pipe lines. In the same way has this railroad established Its fire protection at every large and small terminal and station. At the more important iminta systems proportionately as elalxirate have been Inal ailed to protect the properly of the company. Networks of fire mains, with plugs at convenient places, make It unlikely that the company will suffer serious loss from Are. At the teat at headquarters a num her of supposititious fires were started In different parts of the railroad shops, and firemen, with their helxrs, responded to fight Imaginary flames. 8ome thirty-twregular firemen and a score or more of the auxiliary force directed the streams of water, while tors checked up the results. To make the text more thorough 17 aireams were brought into service. At intervals of two minutes streuniB were turned on, and after all of them were throwing water on the buildings readings were taken of the pressures. The test continued for an hour and a half, during which time Home 18ii,OOU gallons of water was used. o im-pi- Newcomb's Definition of "Magnet. Personally, Newcomb was an agreeable companion and a faithful friend. Ilia success was due largely lo hla tenacity of purpose. The writer's only personal contact with him came through the "Standard Dictionary of whose definitions in physical science Newcomb had general oversight. On one occasion he came Into the office greatly diHBatisfled with the definition that we hail framed for the a conception almost word magnet" Impossible to define In any logical way. We had simply enumerated the a course properties of the thing which In the absence of authoritative knowledge of tlielr causes was the only rational procedure. Rut Newcomb's mind demanded a logical treatment, und though he must have seen from the outset that this was a forlorn hoH. his tenacity of purixiae kept him, pencil In hand, writing and erasing alternately for an hour or more. Finally he confessed that he could do no better than the following pair of definitions Magnet, a body capable force." and of exerting magnetic "Magnetic Force, the force exerted by a magnet " With a hearty laugh at his beaut iful clrculus in deflniendo he threw due u ills pencil, uud the imperfect ami illogical office definition was accepted. -- North American Review. This style may be developed to the extreme, but In Its simpler form la more dignified. The style promises to be a popular one for smart rail and winter Frocks of woolen fabric, with blouses of net and silk and a caftan or the material trimmed with aatln in a harmonizing tone, or, what la safer yet, black, will be In good taste for the woman. s. well-dresse- d New Type of Gown. Flretty gowns, called abroad casino gowns, are being worn with but slight dpcollctage and trans-paregulmpes of tulle or mouaseline. The materials used on gowns of this type are embroideries, laces or crepe de chines, for satin seems to be somewhat pause. Many of them are trimmed with deep silk fringe, and, as the gulrape Is always collarless, beautiful dog collars of Jeweled velvet or Jet are worn, ao that the gown may be becoming with a hat. Somehow a collarless gown and a picture hat are not always a pretty combination. semi-evenin- g This coctume is in old rose cash-merPrinthe dress is a semi-fittincess. with panel back and front stitched at each edge; two flat pleats extend from the panel each side, and are flxed under a pointed tat of silk; folds of silk are laid nnder the edge of panel, and partlv fill In the round neck, the oversleeves being bound with the same. The small yoke is of silk muslin. Materials required: Three yards, 48 inches wide. yard silk. g 3-- 4 Scant Skirts. spite of the many rumors to Hie contrary, the newert skirts still Rive the scant effect about the feet. Tlu-In are. many of them, especially tliore having Hie Byzantine yoke, made quite full above Hie knees by means of side plaits and in oilier ways, but about llie ankb-they again become tight fitting. This Is done by the use of weights in Hie hem, a::d also by Hi" absence of stiff petticoats, oftentimes tin- - soft satin lining of the skill itself being the only covering below the I think I h:uc jase,l through the great knees. third hgree in this home nuking problem, Home Gowns. The marked departures In liou.e hut I would sure have fainted by the wav-sidare a short skirt and a roilar-les1 mg ago did I not insi.--t upon remene gownsand The neck. He mnkelli the desert to blossom as the rose, hut 1 lmv are not only allowed, Tiering that solved the problem and would now gamble on myself to live in sweet bur but rommanded by fashion. If Hie neck is covered at all by the aftercubs and do housekeeping. Tin noon mony with a lion and her dress, ft is only by transparent road was Etony, but who cares for the stones when there are flowers at fabrics that never rise above the collar line. Iarper'n I'.azar. die end of the way?" e s e s oue-sixet- FIRST SLEEPING CAR BUILT The Pioneer" Coat 818,000, In 1864, and Was Regarded at Recklcaa Extravagance. car was built la the Pioneer and designated it by dreaming that be exhaust the letters of the The first sleeping It was called the builder further the letter A. not 1SG4. would Mxm alphabet. Outing aaya. The Pioneer" was built In a Chicago & Alton shop and coat the almost fabulous sum of $18,000. That was reckless extravagance In a year when the best of railroad rourhoH could be built at a cost not exceeding $4,G00. Hut the Pioneer was blazing a new path in luxury. Without it was radian! in paint and varnish, In gay stripes and lettering; It was a giant compared with Its fellows, for It was a foot wider and two feet and a half higher than any car ever built before. It bail the hinged berths that are the distinctive feature of the American and the porter sleeping car of and the passengers no longer had to drag the bedding from closets at the far end of the car. The Pioneer" was not only wider and higher than other passenger cars, but It was also wider and higher than the clearances of station platforms and overhead bridges. Rut when tha news came of the death of President Lincoln the fame of Pullman's Pioneer was already widespread and It was suggested that the new car should lie the funeral coach of the president This Involved cutting wider clearances all the way from Washington by way of Philadelphia, New York and Albany to Springfield, 111., and gangs of men worked night and day to make the needed changes. to-da- y, Last Thought Was His Record. Passengers on a train wracked near lirlstol, Ga., recently told of tha bravery of Engineer Rush, who died aa a result of hia injuries. Rush wai painfully working liis way out of the wreck of his engine, scalded and frightfully bruised, when the few paw sengrrs who retained their senses dug Into the mass of twisted and burning iron to meet hint. When the passengers offered him whisky he brgged them to look after the comfort of tha ether passengers. Told that no passengers had been Injured, he said: Thata good. Rut before I take this whisky 1 want you men to smell my breath and testify, If need be. that I had not been drinking when this happened. All a man has Is his record." And Engineer Ruah went out on hla last run with his record spotless. Revised Upward. at family prayers the head of the house read that chapter which conch-ocwith, "And the wife see that she reverence her husband. had closed and the After the children hu-- I gc.ie to bed, the New York Evening Post says, he quoted It. looking meaningly at his wife. Let us see what the Revised Versaid she. sion says on that subject, I will follow the new teaching, if you Tunica. please. Curiously lovely effects are gained The Revised Version was produced, In little informal evening and afterand her chagrin may be imagined as Gold. Has Much Alaska Still noon gowns by the use of n chiffon the head Impressively read. And let draped tunic over a gown or a conThe decrease of the gold product of Hie wife see that she fear her husbfor the and."-- Youth's Companion. which N trasting shade of satin, with a hit of Aiu.-k- a. and KWS hay been seized embroidery on ihe edge of the tunic. (cars Some striking rrmihiniitions are nas- upon by some persons as an imljr-u--. Balloon on Railroad Track. turtium orange chiffon wMi touches linn of Hie exhum-iioof Hie metal. of gold over gray men suiin; d irk Hut such Is not tlx case. Tie de-A surprise meeting took place bedm- - to labor troubles tween a balloon and a train on the gray chiffon with silver over light line lias which is blue, and brilliant currant red eliiffiin md a lack of wai-rI. 1,. M. lin" near Chuhiiis siir :'.icie, over deep prune color, the ciuhrnldi-r.I ns only. There Is every in France, wbicli might have proved in bronze, gold and deep reds. that the product will he disastrous to the aeronauts. Tie- - train, in the near which curried passcngi is. w : api ry iuat rially im , che. Correct Veils. of proaching tie- - station of Konii-rfuture, owing to the ami had luckily logon to slow duvn. Taupe Is the lending shade In p;ljn vahiabe- - facilities. mesh veils, and those made of a wiry roads have when tlic hailoon Anjou, which li.ul thread in the large, hexagonal type, which the rrcli-h- l chart-efor inierior slurti (I for llticll with two Parisian Kouu-riu- i a l ion will bo reduced. tram-por- t act imams on board, landed on tho a'i unusually becoming to (he Tie- - train was brought to a Another mesh veil, of fm.r ii s ami similar establishments have track. is ut covered with once, und this gave the baland ut desirable flat velvety been located weave, points, slop pastilles, square in shape and scat- by a rereiiHy devised process the loonists time to let tlielr airship tered over the aurface at close .Igiciiig season will be prolonged into hound up again and land In a less dungi-ruuHie wfnt-- r. spot. One evening s lf-i- n , ' estul-ih-hn.i-i- ii mm'-plexlo- -- |
