| Show lie Salt 'I Vienna Austria ake Tribune I Sunday October lfi 19KK T5 walking tour in the footsteps of Mozart and Freud By Alan Littell legendary haunt of an intellectual elite that once included playwright Arthur Schnitzler and Sigmund Freud founder of psychoanalysis Still the city's leading coffee house it's just the place to break your walk for an espresso and sumptuous wedge of chocolate Imperial Vienna has become a lure for discriminating travelers Once the artistic and intellectual hub of the Hapsburg Empire the city where Mozart lived and Johann Strauss composed his w altzes appeals with a glorious mix of elegance and grandeur The of and Austria mingle easily w ith the florid excesses of an earlier Baroque In spring and summer the city is alive with sunlight and flowers If you chance to arrive on a damp w inter day Vienna holds a special magic: streets touched with mist a dusting of snow on the ground But no matter when you come Vienna reveals itself best to the pedestrian Its narrow cobbled old quarter bounded by that grand semicircular boulevard the Ringstrasse is inhospitable to motor traffic Within the Ring a leisurely stroll of three or four hours provides a concentrated glimpse of one of central Europe's most astonishingly beautiful cityscapes In the Vienna of Mozart Strauss and Gustav Mahler cultural life still centers on the fabled Opera at the corner of the Ring and Karntner-strass- e And as a jumping-of- f point for any walk this is the obvious — and practical — place to begin The underpass directly below the marble edifice houses the Vienna Tourist Information Office (open daily 9 to 7) City maps and museum guides are available without charge and English-speakinpersonnel are on hand to answer your questions From the Opera's cloistered arcades walk east two blocks and cross the Ring into Schw’arzenbergplatz a spacious symmetry of Baroque architecture Double back toward the Opera on the Ring s south side Glancing left you now have a view down Canovagasse that frames St Charles's Church a superb example of Austrian high Baroque with its Italianate dome and flanking pillars e Continuing detour left on Your jaunt will take you briefly just outside the Ring Cross Bosendorferstrasse and pass onto a small square in front of the facade of theMusikverein home of the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra Ahead across Friedrichstrasse stands the richly ornamented metro station — designed by Otto Wagner in the 1890s — that helped usher in the revolution in art and architecture known as jugendstil Austria's version of art nouveau As you amble west to Karntner-strass- e the prime symbol of this explosion of modernism the flashing gold dome of the Secession exhibition hall can be seen to the left a few blocks off Recross the Ring and walk past the Opera Turn left into Augustiner-strass- e The palace on your left the Albertina now contains one of the world's largest collections of prints and drawings by such masters as Durer and Michelangelo As with Vienna's other great museums the Albertina is a must-se- e attraction But it deserves more time than you can reasonably be expected to spare from a morning or afternoon's walking tour Plan to come back another day Augustinerstrasse empties into an imposing Baroque square Josefs-plat- z On the far side you'll find the entrance to the Spanish Riding arena is reSchool The nowned for stunning displays of white stalby lions A block farther on at Michaeler-platveer left under the stately entrance cupola of the Hofburg the Hapsburg Imperial Palace from 1278 to 1918 Ramble through the palace courtyard to a broad esplanade Heldenplatz All of Vienna opens up before you in a dazzling array of monumental architecture To the left is the sweeping crescent of the National Library ahead — edging the Ringstrasse — the massive pillared Imperial Gate On the other side of the Ring two huge domed museums — Fine Arts and Natural History — face each an oss a statue — studded park Retrace your steps to Michaeler-plat- z Turn left into Herrengasse Two blocks away on the right is the columned and vaulted Cafe Central far-flun- g neo-Gothi- c i i Leaving turn left into Strauch-gassTake your first right into After a few steps go right again into Naglergasse a narrow mall of restaurants and antique shops Naglergasse meanders into Graben also closed to traffic dominated by the flamboyantly sculpted memorial column erected after the plague epidemic of 1679 With its bustling boutiques and sidewalk cafes Graben is a prime locale for people watching Linger aw hile Viennese in traditional loden coats and plumed Tyrolean hats stroll arm in arm along the flagged promenade And from some distant corner wafts an echo of a vanished age: the sad melodious strains of a s hurdy-gurd- Graben runs into the emotive core of Vienna the magnificent Gothic Cathedral of St Stephen From here wander north through a warren of medieval streets and Bauern-markt squares — Brandstatte d — to Hohermarkt Juden-gass- e the historic Jewish ghetto Inevitably visitors to these precincts stumble on reminders of the Hitler era Judengasse funnels into where the only Seitenstettengasse synagogue to escape destruction by Nazi troops and their local collaborators still stands Its gray facade is a melancholy relic of a community that numbered 200000 before Hitler annexed Austria in 1938 Today about 5000 Jews live in Vienna Your route takes you back to Judengasse Bear left on Fleischmarkt Turn left again on Rotenturmstrasse g Turn right into Grieschengasse Here Greek merchants once occupied a huddle of Baroque buildings along the quays of the Danube River The buildings remain but the river has since been channeled north in a flood control project Make a hairpin right turn back into Fleischmarkt and an immediate left on Kollnerhofgasse Go left into Grashofgasse This is a medieval close or courtyard It narrows under a coaching arch into Heiligenkreuzer Hof a cobbled square that is now the site of a Saturday flea market Turn right on Schonlaterngasse then left into Sonnenfelsgasse Pass the Jesuit Church and make a right into Backer-strass- e At No 7 poke into a typical galleried courtyard e Exiting cross diagonally into a lane At the next intersection cross Wollzeile into Strobelgasse The street bends in an L joining an ancient cobbled byway under the shadow of St Stephen's towering spire You are now on Domgasse Mozart lived at No 5 from 1784 to 1787 On the second floor are the rooms w here he w rote his comic opera "The Marriage of Figaro" and where a admirer Ludwig van Beethoven came to hear him play From Domgasse proceed under a nearby arch to St Stephen's Swing left around the square in ircM of the cathedral into Karntnersirasse With Graben it is one of the top shopping streets of A walk past Lanzs for loden and Backhausen's for jugensd-sti- l fabrics brings you back to the Opera where the tour began IF YOU GO Getting There: Most of the major transatlantic carriers serve Vienna connecting through European gateways Royal Jordanian flies nonstop from New York and Miami Where to Stay: Best bets for the budget minded are pensions like Bosch (13 Keilgasse: $44-$5double with bath: telephone 786179) At the upper end of the accommodations scale standouts include the Hilton International Hotel (Am Stadtpark $173-$23in the US) and the Hotel Imperial (15 Karntner Dum-bastrass- d 17th-centur- y 17th-centur- y 16th-centur- y Essi-gass- one-bloc- k 18th-centur- y dre-sag- "St’" Cake 19th-centur- y coral-colore- s g e high-steppin- g z 4 7 Ring $183-$35- 8 Information: The Austrian National Tourist Ofice (500 Fifth Ave New York NY 10110 has details about Vienna Alan Littell lives in Alfred N 1" rrr’f'jr r Photo by Caroline Uttell The National Library of Vienna is within stops of the Ringstrasse the city's best area for walking Dramatic landscape To the Icelandic highlands by bus By Frances Ann Burns UPI Writer REYKJAVIK Iceland — From one point of view the last evening of our camping tour of Iceland was nothing unusual: we ate dinner in a drizzle shielded inside rain jackets and ponchos But a few hours after our roast lamb feast those of us who stayed up talking and finishing a bottle of Dutch gin were rewarded by the sight of the full moon rising over the jagged rim of the mountains around Thorsmorsk and by the northern lights twisting across the sky That was typical of Iceland The northernmost country in Europe an island that touches the Arctic Circle has a fairytale quality because its dramatic landscape is so often hidden in rain and mist The Mini Safari tour organized by Ulfar Jacobsen Travel of Reykjavik had taken us on a swing around southwest Iceland through coastal areas over highland passes and to standard tourist sights like Thingvel-li- r the volcanic rift where the early Icelanders held their parliament and the geysers at Geysir We mouncamped amid tains at Landinannalaugar in the highlands at the foot of the Vatnajo-kul- l Europe's largest glacier and finally in Thorsmorsk a mountain oasis surrounded by glaciers with a name that means "hammer of the many-colore- god Thor" Although we were never more than a couple of hundred miles from Reykjavik we traveled slowly on unpaved roads with frequent breaks for picnic lunches walks to waterfalls and for what our guide Thor-unOskarsdottir called "technical stops" 16 We started out strangers people from six countries plus an Icelandic guide cook and driver But a day or so of doing dishes pitching tents loading and unloading the bus getting rained on and bouncing over the highland roads quickly melted the ice The first thing we learned was never to leave our rain gear in the bus even if the sun was shining brightly and we were only taking a half-hou- r side trip from Art a freckled Amsterdam became the group mascot His greatest joy in Iceland was being able to throw rocks whenever he felt like it something his mother s Wil said is in the Netherlands where most stones have been imported from elsewhere for decorative purposes For the grownups high spots included seeing a perfect rainbow over a rocky highland valley crossing a new lava field that looked like the outskirts of JRR Tolkien's fictional Mordor walking along the black sand beach of the south coast under cliffs alive with seabirds and hiking to a waterfall crossed by a natural rock bridge and to the edge of the Vatnajokull on a trail that crossed highland meadows dotted with flowers We learned French folk dances from a group camped across from us at the Skaftafell National Park lounged in the natural hot tub at off-limit- Landmannalaugar where a hot spring warms up an icy river and argued about Sweden's social welfare system and traded Monty Python imitations in after-dinne- r bull sessions Thorunn (like most Icelanders she does not use a family name) helped us to see the Icelandic landscape as more than a collection of postcard views She explained the different types of lava we encountered showed us rocks that generations of Icelanders believed to be trolls turned to stone told us how the thousands of grazing sheep destroy fragile vegetation causing problems with wind erosion "They are so greedy" she said one day looking at sheep munching on a patch of grass on top of an almost vertical slope "They don't look where they are going — they just look down and eat " For Thorunn the countryside was ali e with reminders of Iceland's history both good and bad of the era of the Settlement when the rowdy Icelanders farmed feuded and sailed to Greenland and Canada of the 1783 volcanic eruption that killed most of the country's cattle and sheep and eventually half the population Archaeological remains and old buildings are scarce but many of the waterfalls rock formations and hot spring areas have a place in legend or history as the home of elves saga heroes or outlaws Thorunn urged us to eat the hearty meals served up by Bara Johanns-dotti- r telling us we needed the calories to fight the cold We discovered that a taste for fish and lamb is helpful in Iceland When we returned to Reykjavik the city that had seemed small six days before looked huge after the We posed for empty highlands group pictures hugged each other and went our separate ways 18th-centur- y For information on bus tours of Iceland contact: Icelandair the Iceor landic Tourist Board 655 Third Ave New York 10017 or see your travel agent 0 3 If you go to Iceland bring several layers of warm clothes rain gear a swim suit and lots and lots of money Europe's northernmost country is also its wettest and most expensive In every other way Iceland is easy for American tourists Most Icelanders speak English living standards are high and the crime rate is close to zero Water from hot springs feeds hundreds of swimming pools including outdoor ones that are in use year-iuunIcelandair with flights from New York and Orlando to Luxembourg Scandinavia and Britain via Keflavik Airport near Reykjavik allows passengers to stop over in Iceland for up to three weeks The airline is no longer the bargain marvel it used to be but is more than competitive with most scheduled carriers d There are ways to rut costs Iceland has an extensive youth hostel system and many country hotels farmhouses and mountain huts provide dormitory “sleeping bag accomodation” Most towns have campgrounds (Reykjavik's is next to the city's best swimming pool) and freelance camping is legal anywhere in the countryside except on fenced land and in a few protected areas Tourists should plan ahead to avoid buying a tin of aspirin or a roll of film in Iceland Liquor costs more than $50 a litre but the duty-freshop at Keflavik is open to incoming as well as outgoing passengers What Icelandic hotelkeepers call a Continental breakfast (it costs up to $10 if it's not included in the room rate) is actually an e serve-yoursel- feast including f cheese cold cuts herring cereal skyr or sour milk (both resemble yogurt) cucumbers and tomatoes But main courses in most restaurants start at $20 and go up from there Reykjavik the world's northernmost capital and home to more than a third of the 250000 Icelanders is a pretty city But Iceland's spectacular countryside with its waterfalls glaciers volcanos birdTifc and arctic flowers and plants is its main attraction Icelandair and Icelandic travel agencies offer packages during the summer season that range from fully escorted bus tours staying in hotels to horseback tours across the high- lands to two-datrips to the West-manIslands or Lake Myvatn Reyt javik Excursions and other agencies offer davtrips that include horseback riding and fishing as well as sightseeing The long days of June July and August are high season for visitors and many highland areas are not acBut the wincessible until mid-Julter weather on the roast is mild (Reykjavik in December is usually warmer than New York) and hotels in the capital and most population centers remain open n y year-roun- d O030E© CLAWSON SHIELDS 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