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Show frw * ' ? IN DIDO'S DIDOS DIDOrS DIDOrSk ' LAND . . - " - - ' ' ! < " ' l ' . "si si " i-ws-y'a i ws y'a ya - Yi y"a ya ' if'r.f ifr.f ifrf f fw /w w / , , \ ' , ff W iV C * { / ss . y--z y z ' - . , " . , - $ ' ,3 3 , , / V tft t w : - . . . AfeAj . / l li i bjl y i & 1 t r k Qg _ _ _ _ , l y/ y yy j jR / , ? R * yV . < - \ / . Launching Launchinr Launchingthe LaunchingCarthage Tunisian Ship of the Desert Resists CityCarthage Carthage Today Is NotWrote Not the City Cityof Cityof of Wroteof Which Virgil and Flaubert Wrote Pre Prepared by National onal Geographtc O " ? Sehic SehicrviceietY " SocIety SocIetyWnsbin 0'17Washington 017Washington ' ' * G WNUSehic WasbingtontiD PreWasbingtontiD CG CWNU WNU Wnsbin n D CWNU C -WNU WNU - WNU ServiceTODAY Service ServiceDODAY rviceietY rviceietYTODAY , one goes to Car- Car Carthage Carthage Car Carthage - DODAY TODAY thage by automob automobile e or orelectric orelectric electrJc electric tram Shades Shadesof Shadesof of Dido DJdo , Hannibal Hanmbal , . and Hamdcar Hamilcart Ham- Ham Hamilcar - ilcar dcar ilcart ' ilcartBut But for Virgil V1rgll and Gustave GustaveFlaubert GustaveFlaubert Flaubert , Carthage would be bedeader bedeader bedeader deader than ancient Philadel PhIladel- PhIladelphia Philadelphia Philadelphia - phia , which wh1ch now is Amman , Trans JordanJust JordanJust Jordan JordanJust Just above the station in a bttle little bttlegarden littlegarden littlegarden garden massed with daisies and andgeramums andgeraniums andgeraniums geramums geraniums Is a monument to Flau Flair Flaubert Flairbert FIaubert bert The head representing theImmortal theimmortal the theimmortal immortal author of ot Salammbo Salammbohis ( his Madame Bovary isn Isnt t even evenmentIOned evenmentioned evenmentioned mentIOned in lD an Carthage ) fs is less than thanMe thanlife thanlife Me life size But Flaubert s romantic romanticdescrIptIon romanticdescription romanticdescription descrIptIon clothes the city site With Withan withan withan an aura of ot lasting lastmg gloryToday gloryToday glory gloryToday Today it seems a blessing blessmg that thatthe thatthe thatthe the author wrote some 75 years yearsago yearsago yearsago ago tor for Carthage is less Carthage Carthagenow Carthagenow Carthagenow now Stucco villas are crowdmg crowding crowdmgcloser crowdingcloser crowdingcloser closer and closer about the ancIent ancIentports ancientports ancientports ports and their gardens cl mb high highI higher higher I er and higher hJgher on the Byrsa where wherethe wherethe wherethe the Carthaginians Carthagmlans had their fort and andtemple andtemple andtemple temple and around which 700 700000of 000 000of 000of of them had their homesThe homesThe homes homesThe The site which Dido chose is 1S as too tooblessed tooblessed tooblessed blessed by beauty and climate cl1mate to toremam toremain toremain remam remain a mere sepulcher for a avamshed avanished avanished vamshed vanished race which left its most mostnotable mostnotable mostnotable notable monuments on the maps ot of otprmlltIve ofprimitive ofprimitive prmlltIve primitive seamanship and ancIent ancIentworld ancientworld ancientworld world commerceCarthage commerceCartilage commerce commerceCarthage Carthage Cartilage Isn t Carthage and arid pos poss s biy bly never was What remains remams IS as ISPumc asPunic isPunic Pumc Punic Roman Christian Moslem Moslemand Moslemand Moslemand and art moderne Here heavy foot footed footed tooted ed elephants shuffled down long longramps longramps longramps ramps to their stables and armed armedmen armedmen armedmen men stood watch on walls that thatseemed thatseemed thatseemed seemed impregnable But the site site1S siteis siteis 1S is a grab bag ot of history and unless unlessone unlessone unlessone one is careful he stumbles over overanachromsms overanachronisms overanachronisms overanachronismsSalammbo anachromsms anachronisms anachromsmsSalammbo anachronismsSalammbo Salammbo Is a SuburbThe SuburbThe Suburb SuburbThe The guardian spirit of ot Carthage Carthageis CarthageI IS a novelist s creation whose name namehas namehas namehas I has been appropriated appropnated by a sea seaside seaside seaside side suburb As one rides from La LaGoulette LaGoulette LaGoulette Goulette ( the gullet of ot the lake ot of otTunis ofTunis ofTunis Tunis ) toward Carthage the street streetcar streetcar streetcar car conductor shouts Salammbo SalammboStrangers SalammboStrangers SalammboStrangers Strangers start at the magic wordThe wordThe word wordThe The only Punic relic re1Jc worthy ot of otFlaubert ofFlaubert ofFlaubert Flaubert s heroine is a young priest priestess priestess priestess ess with a dove in her hand and andher andher andher her soft sott robe ending endmg in 111 wings wmgs whIch whichcross whichcross cross over her limbs I1mbs Among the thestone thestone thestone stone ammunition ammumtlon crude steles and andcmerary andcinerary andcinerary cmerary cinerary caskets of the Punic Puma pe penod perind penod nod rind this life We size coffin top stands standsout standsout standsout out like te lake 1 a pretty girl in a morgue Revengeful morgueRevengeful ancients who vowed vowednot vowednot vowednot not to leave one stone of Carthage Carthageon on another kept their promise but butthis butthis butthis this lone figure slept on m in her h hill hillside hillside l lsIde sIde tomb and so survived to prove tooktheir that provethat the Punic traders who took tooktheir tooktheir their art where they found it were werenot werenot werenot not entirely entll'ely entllely ' lacking lackmg to in tasteThe tasteThe taste tasteThe The ancient ports of Carthage long Carthagelong isolated from tram the sea by the thebuilding thebuildmg buildmg building of ot a shore road are agaIn agaInconnected againconnected againconnected TunisIn connected with the gulf of TuniS In the interests of ot health small smallchannels smallchannels smallchannels channels have been dug The naval navaland navaland navaland and commercial harbors are now nowconnected nowconnected nowconnected connected with the MedIterranean MedIterraneanwhose Mediterraneanwhose Mediterraneanwhose whose Levantine Levantme shores bathe the theIJiles thepiles thepiles IJiles piles ot of murex shells from whirh whIch Tyre and Sidon extracted a purple purplewhose whose historyFrom lustoryFrom memory melIQry me ] , ory still colors history lustory From the though theTough "tough tough " stones of ot the am amphlthea amphitheater amphitheater phlthea phitheater ter rises rases a white cross Why crossWhy this modern emblem ll in ! inthis llthIS thIS pagan arena ? one wonders Then wondersThen he remembers Cardinal Lavigene La Lavlgerle Lavigerie vlgerle vigerie historicsense who never lost his historic sense amid aDald his lus has numerous nUInerous good goodworks works erected this seemingly seemmgly m in congruous incongruous mcongruous whereChristian hereChristian cross over a spot v . where here Christian martyrs to whom that thatsymbol symbol was more than life Me were put wereput beforeMohammed betoreMohammed ut to deathsome death some 400 years betore before Mohammed was bom born . . . I destroyedwas Carthage must be destroyed was Caesar the grand ose slogan But Cae sar and Augustus had more sense than sensethan Sc pio plO They del berately beralely re restored stored a ruined to thanits enemy more than Its former beauty and Hadrian gave It gaveit an aqueduct whose stillrank remains still rank inapressive impressive among Tunisia s most impres sive ancient monumentsKalrouan monumentsKaironan monuments monumentsKaironan Kaironan Kalrouan the Samtly Saintly SaintlyFor SamtlyFor For m miles es his high arched aque duct aqueduct stretches above grainflelds graInfields and graz andgraz MountZahouan ng flocks coming commg from trom Mount Zahouan which provides did itdid CarHian . Tunis Tums Turns . as it Carthage t < - - - WIth water . , _ You I vuI Youparallel parallel it on your way to ? Kalrouan Kairouan - A vu the Kairouanthe Kalrouanthe SamUyHow SaintlyHow Saintly SamUy | How to describe place1flocto.l t this llS holy place 1-fl-octo.l 1flocto.l 1 fl octo.l octol . placecreated - _ 1- 1 1.m.i - " ' - - created - - - - - - - - - - by - . , Moslems - . .m.i m.i mi . . some aunie of 01 Whom | had seen the Prophet fleshI in the flesh ? Nothing you may read prepares tor for youtor the silence ol ot of the Great Mosque you the polychrome t tiles es of the mosque mosqueof mosqueof mosqueot swords swordsand swordsand swordsand ot of Sidi Sidl Sahab the grotesque of ofSabers ofSabers ofSabers and giant pipe of the mosque marketplace of ofthe ofthe ofthe Sabers the teeming teemmg relentless relentlessirrItatIon relentlessIrritation relentlessirritation the Rue Saussier SausSler or the irrItatIon of street Arabs begginge begging e . Good day mister give roe me a cig dg dgarette cigarette cigarette . arette , , aretteOnce Once a year the word eVIdently eVIdentlygoes evidentlygoes evidentlygoes , goes around that the little pests pestsshan pestsshall pestsshall shan shall cease to pester And smce since smcet sincethat sincethat t lat that luxury comes at a time when whenKalrouan whenKairouan whenKairouan Kalrouan Kairouan is as at Its best a visit on onthe onthe onthe the last day of the annual Rug fair fairIS fairas fairis IS as pleasantly memorableSoon memorableSoon memorable memorableSoon Soon after dawn to receive pow powder powder powder der for their salutes the famouS famouSZlass famousZlass famousZlass Zlass horsemen assemble beside the thecircular thecircular thecircular circular pool of the Aghlabites Aghlabltes Clad Cladll Cladin Cladin ll in ! their best robes and wearmg wearing wearmgsombreros wearingsombreros wearingsombreros sombreros whose broad brims br1ms are areheld areheld areheld held up by ostrich ostnch feathers they theyseem theyseem theyseem seem a doc docile e lot But when the theresIdent theresident theresident resIdent generals general s car arrives the thetempo thetempo thetempo tempo qUIckensBy quickensBy quickens quickensBy By afternoon these somnolent somnolenthorses somnolenthorses somnolenthorses horses will be racmg racing at breakneck breakneckspeed breakneckspeed breakneckspeed speed while whale their r ders stand in intheIr intheir intheir theIr saddles sweep the earth with withtrelr withtheir withtheir trelr their heads do a shoulder stand on ona ona ona a galloping gallopmg charger and juggle gun gunand gunand gunand and saber in m mimic mlnuc warfareAmong warfareAmong warfare warfareAmong Among the whitewashed graves graveswhere graveswhere graveswhere where the dead huddle as close as aspossible aspossible aspossible possible to the Great Mosque ve veiled veiledwomen veiledwomen ed edwomen women stand and cheerBve cheerEve cheer cheerEve Eve Bve has not lost her delight in inweddmgs inweddings inweddings weddmgs weddings When the rider nder sweeps sweepsdown sweepsdown sweepsdown down on a cortege grouped about aboutthe aboutthe aboutthe the silken saddle tent of ot the bnde bride bndeto brideto brideto to be and an Arab Lochmvar Lochinvar ab abducts abducts abducts ducts the angel ol of tus IDS his dreams from fromhalf fromhalf fromhalt half hearted defenders who are areprobably areprobably areprobably probably glad to have it over With Withthe withthe withthe the veiled women ululate ululale the r de deI de1 I 1 ght The fact tact that the silken can canopy canopy canopy opy is empty doesn t spo 1 I the funToo funToo fun funToo Too . Much r.luch rluch Olive Oil 011 ProducedBetween ProducedBetween Produced ProducedBetween Between Kairouan Kalrouan and the south southern southern southern ern oases stretches the eastern easternplam easternplain easternplain plam plain in which the French protec protectors protectors tors take just pride for they have haverestored haverestored haverestored restored fert tertdity fertility lty to a region long longbarren longbarren longbarren barren In neat rows m miles es long longand longand longand and 80 feet teet apart stand olive ohve trees treeswhose treeswhose treeswhose whose only fault tault is their frwtful frmtful frwtfulness frmtfulness fruitfulness fruitfulnessWhen ness nessWhen When Paul Bourde a journalIst journalIstconvUlced journalistconvinced journalistconvinced convUlced convinced of ot ancient olive o1Jve produc productlon production production tlon tion here by the ruins rums of Roman Romanmillstones Romanmillstones Romanmillstones millstones brought back groves to toregions toregions toregions regions the Arab invader had laid laiddesolate laiddesolate laiddesolate desolate he fa failed ed to bring brmg back backthe backthe backthe the little httle Roman lampEven lampEven lamp lampEven Even beauty parlors can t use as asmuch asmuch asmuch much olive ohve o oil as did the Roman Romanathletes Romanathletes Romanathletes athletes who rubbed it on thick and andthen andthen andthen then scraped it off oft in rivulets WIth WIththe withthe withthe the curved strigil strlgll Lands of corn cornand cornand cornand and cotton offer substitutes and the PhilIppme Philippine thePhilippine thePhilIppme pahnseeks palm pahn seeks its share of ofthe ofthe the ofthe alltoo oil 011 trade Bourde succeeded all too well Tunisian obve ohve olive oil tre the treequal theequal theequal equal of any begs tor for buyers at a tourth fourth afourth atourth its former tormer prkeSousse priceSousse price prke priceSousse -bigcities bigcities thebigcities 'bIgcltles 'bagcities Sousse and Stax Sfax are the 'bIg bIg 'bag bag - ' ' cltles cities of ot Tunisia Tun15la 3 s eastern plam plain plainEach plamEach Each has its neat European quar quay ters quarters quayters each its interesting mterestmg native nativetown nativetovm tovm town tovmSousse townSousse nativetownSousse Sousse then Hadrumetum helped helpedHannibal Hannibal fight Scipio and later was carpeted wascarpeted with Roman mosaics Le Bardo LeBardo s httle 1Jttle little gem found at Sousse Sousseshows Sousseshows Sousseshows shows Aeneidbetween AeneIdbe Virgilntmg Virgil \ writing \\ntmg ntmg the AeneId be between veen : the Muses > second only to Tunis ships shipsphosphates phosphates and fishes for torsponges torspongesoctrirtucec sponges _ spongesoctopuses octrirtucecnw3 octopuses and nw3 j-- j j1 - - " 1- 1 1fodder - - ' - - a vanety variety at of finny fodder Its neat European quarter quarterseems seems like an exposition exposItwn city Na Nauve NatIve tIve life lite centers in m the mosque On Onraised raised benches covered with mat matting mattang ting tang dealers sell frippery gewgaws gewgawsand and a fortune teller divines dlvmes from field fromfield beans beansAmphitheater Amphitheater of ot El DJem Diem DJemBetween DiemBetween Between Sousse Roman and Sfax a Ro man rum dwarfs tte the tl > e modern town tor for fnrwhich which * _ which ? It - - - - - - was the the isthe quarry It is amplutheater amphitheater of EI El DJern Djen One sees Onesees It at from mIles males away and its memory follows tollows one for tor In yearsIn In- In Intho - the tho- tho thoc - - EIghth c ' . .t- .t . .t'er . " - - - years EIghthcentury century when Kahena Berber 'er er ' queen sought to toswarm repel the Arab mvaders invaders thIs colt COIL coltseum seum scum served as her I tortress fortress ExI Ex Except cept for thiS and a tew few other I tlal teal mterludes interludes the towermg towering mar ture tore struc strut stood there empty as the Yale bowl or the Ann Arbor tween stadIUIn stadium be games I ' 60000 60000spectators 000spectators 60 twardthe 000 spectators spectators waltlng waiting to swarm only tward tor the clouds and look toward towardstones down baric bane on the bar spectacles In the arena Then Then , , at .the the . end endOf Of the Seven teenth century rebels hId had here bey broke through the a wall to them reach and El DJem each ch ot of "hose hose Whose " stones had been been"nie pamtully painfully and shaped . became |