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Show ' " a L1dflQ Uti L1dflQUti UtiM UtiQ Utir r , M Q y ya yJ yr yati a J r ati i ' ( x xc c y yt ysa 4 4i t sa sar ' r ! , y yro , g " ro . h ht hti d j r t 1 19a ba baWro ti ' Wro ' I Ir 9a 9aj 9ay 9aa y \ q9 4 b a M Mq9 9 9eaw eaw t"H tH t"HPip " Pip for Sale In a Sofia Street . I'ropired Iropired l'rop"lrod lroplrod t'rep1red trep1red ' ' " h hatlonnl hi bin } fsatlonal \atlonnl atlonnl Aatlonai ! \ O'o Oo Ooofrraphle Geographic ( ' rnphlc : Society , _ WishlnBton Wa.shlngton Washlngton Washington . D CWNU C-WNU C WNU C -WNU WNU - WNU ServiceB ServiceL ServiceB ServiceLh1VELN Service ServiceT T LFWELN rWBLN Lh1VELN L the Danube and thplracedonian theMacedonian thp the thpr B r- r rMacedonian - Macedonian l\racedonian l racedonian \ mountains the trav- trav traveler traveler trav-JL trav JL - cler eler sees hardly h'lrc1ly hlrc1ly ' a single farmhouse farmhouse farm farmhouse house ; yet "Bulgar Bulgar " " " means a aman aman aman man " with "Ith Ith a plow , and nnd four of every everyIh everyfine everyfive Ih fine e Bulgarians are farmers Soft.l Softl Sofia Sofiafounded . , . founded by Trajan , just missed be- be becomIng becoming be becoming - - coming Constantinople , , since smce Constan- Constan ConstanUne Constantine Constan-tine Constan tine - - Une tine seriously considered It as his Ills cap capItal capital capital Ital Still a small sm'lll smlll ' town In 1880 1850 . , , It Is Isnow Isnow isnow now a flourishing flourl5hmg citv clh cats of n a quarter of ofa ofa ofa a million mltllon Inhabitants the progressh progressiv progressivecapital e ecaplt1.1 ecapital caplt1.1 caplt11 capital . of ot a land of vllhgesAlthough villagesAlthough villages vllhges villagesAlthough Although , since hoary antIqUity antiquitytidal , Ud'll Udll tidal ' " waves "aves aves naves of humanity humamty have swept sweptsouth sweptsouth sweptsouth south through the Balkan B'llhan Bllhan ' passes pasces ; or oretlst oreast oreast etlst east and west along the route to By- By By7antlum By7antlum By-yantlum By yantlum - 7antlum this cross loads 10'lds 10lds meads ' country Is Isstill Isstill Isstill still far from the beaten pathI pathYet pathYet path pathYet I Yet the Orient express e\press e press ecpress " ' \ : p'lsses plsses passes p'lssesthrough passesthrough passesthrough ' through Sofia every e\ery e ery \ dav day , and on the theOrient theOrient . Orient Arrow It is a day's days ' flight 11Ight from fromParis fromParis fromPans Paris , whose styles It lias has begun to tocopy tocopy tocopy ' copy Before dayliglit daylight you ; ou don the theI theseventy theseventy I ceventy seventy : league le'lgue lelgue ' boots awaiting you at atLo atLo atLo Lo Bourget , airport mrport of Pans ParIs , touch touchearth touchearth i iearth earth at Strasbourg , Nurnberg , Prague PragueVienna , Vienna , Budapest and Belgrade , and andend andend andend end the day In your sixth sb.th sbth shth . . Curopean European Curopeancapital Europeancapital : Europeancapital EuropeancapitalDespite capital capitalDespite Despite the Increase In numbers of ofcity ofcity ofcity city dwellers , seeking seekmg to buy amuse amusement amusemeat amusement ment meat In the open market marl.et marlet . , . sC'lnning sClnning scanning sC'lnningmovIe scanningmovie scanningmovie ' movIe posters and photographs of ofsleeL ofsleek ofsleeL sleeL sleek . cabaret cah\rel cah rel ' \ girls , Bulgaria Is an ag agrkultural agrlcultural agrkultural rkultural rlcultural I lind md mud , , w " with "lth lth Itli peasant conserv conserv- conservatism conservatlsm conservatism - atism atlsm and thrift Among the more or orless orless orless less formal Thanksgiving Th'lnksglvlng Thlnksglvlng ' proclama proclamatlons proclamations proclamations tlons tions of recent times , surely one of the themost themost tliemost most arresting was Bulgaria's Bulgarias ' 'Our Our 'Ourpoverty 'Ourpoverty Ourpoverty ' Our Ourpoverty poverty is our richesIt riches It " A land of ofhomespun ofhomespun ofhomespun homespun may m'lY mlY ' be proof against not notonly notonly notonly only spiritual but also economic de- de depressIOn depression de depression - - pression pressionWere Were one to seek a symbol for eco eco- economics economics economics - nomics and spiritual stability , . the t1le Bul Bulgarlan Bulgarlan Bulgarlan garlan woman , plying her distaff distal ! as asshe asshe asshe she leads meek eyed oxen o"Cen oCen oven " through throughbucolic throughbucolic throughbucolic bucolic scenes worthy of a Rose Bon- Bon Bonheur Bonheur Bon-heur Bon heur - - heur . , , ml might ht well serve as a n model But Buteven Buteven Buteven even the Bulgarian Bulgari'ln Bulgariln ' Maud Miller MlUer has has"glanced has"glanced has"glanced hasglanced "glanced glanced " to the far oft ocr off townIt town It " ItGOing "Going Going GOing Ahead Rapidly . The ThG Th rural Bulgarians , , whose riches richesare richesare richesare are poverty , are awaking av.al.mg aval.mg avalmg . . to new de de- desires desires desires - - sires Bulgarians have long fostered fosteredschools fosteredschools fosteredschools schools , literature l1terature , music , . and the thedrama thedrama thedrama drama But "progress progress " " now means meanssomethmg meanssomething meanssomething somethmg something dlf'ferent-not dlf'ferent dlfferent not different-not different different ' - not a lifting llftlng up upbut , but a speeding up City Clty styles and andpleasures andpleasures andpleasures pleasures are stealing steallng the spotlightAn spotlight spotlightAn . An old Bulgarian proverb says , uEas "Ens Ens uEaslor "Ensier "Easicr Easicr " lor ier to start the piper than to stop stophl1n stophim stophim hl1n him , " and nnd amid Bulgaria has begun to totread totread totread tread a n faster measure than ox : team teamor teamor teamor or buffalo have set or can followOne followOne follow followOne One finds in Bulgaria many grad grad- graduates graduates graduates - uates of Constantinople Woman's Womans ' col college college college lege , and of Robert college In Istanbul Istanbul.There IstanbulThere . , There are also ce'r cer ; several ' eral excellent Amer Amerlcan Amerlean Amerlean lcan lean schools In la Bulgaria BulgllrIa Itself . Amer Amer- AmerIcan American American - ican educators have approached the thelroblems theproblems theproblems lroblems problems ) of Bulgaria with sympathetic sympatheticunderstandIng sympatheticunderstanding sympatheticunderstanding understandIng . The boys ' and girls girls'schools girlsschools ' chools schools < ; of Samokov have been unIted unItedto unitedto unitedto to form a co educational American Americanconege Americancollege Americancollege conege college ; but . , In deference to Bulgarian Bulgarianconsen Bulgarianconservatism Bulgarianconservatism consen conservatism utlsm , an Imaginary line . , cut cut- cutting cutting cutting - ting the time campus campu'i campui ' In two , still stin separatesthe separates separatesthe separatesthe the sexesIn sexesIn sexes sexesIn In Pordim Pordlm Pordbn there Is a more unusual unusualschool unusualschool unusualschool school with a one-year one year - - course designed designedfor designedfor designedfor for dirt farmers , , who there learn to do doby doby doby by doing domg Future ruture mothers practice on onmeal onical 1 meal eal babies before having babies ot of ottheir oftheir oftheir their own ov.n ovn . Even Dven In n a land where vet vet- veterinary veterinary veterinary - erinary schools and hospitals hospItuls rIval rIvalthose rivalthose rivalthose those for human beings bemgc ; , . there Is no noother noother noother other Institution quite like 1Il.e 1Ile . the Amer Amer- AmerIcan American American - ican farm school , " which "hleh hleh gains prestIge prestIgefrom prestigefrom prestigefrom from Its American patronageTirnoo patronage p'ltronage pltronage p'ltronageTlrnoo patronageTirnovo ' Tirnovo Tlrno\o Tlrno o Tirno\o Tirno \ , , former capital at a time timewhen timewhen timewhen when defense was "as as " more thjn tbdn than trdde trade trdderoutes traderoutes traderoutes routes , , ; straddles clraddles a neck of land tun tunneled tunneled tunnelcd neled by the time railway rnll\ay rnll ay , \ and rises above abovewild abovewild abovewild wild mid-cltv mid cltv md.dtv mddtv mi&city micity [ & . - gorges as ns docs doee does ; Luxem- Luxem Luxemboun Luxembourg Luxcm-bourff Luxcm bourff - - boun bourg On the Mount of Eagles Cagles : stands standsthe standsthe standsthe the city of today , linked lInhed by a narrow narrowIsthmus narrowisthmus narrowIsthmus Isthmus ' with 'WIth the Hill nlll 11111 of the Tsars Tsars.walled Tsarswalled . . , walled region of the former royal pal pal- palaces palaces palaces - aces A colony of ot monasteries mona&terles monaterles & occu occupI occupies occupics pI pies s another anotht > r hllllop hltllop hilltop and the arlsto aristo arlstocrats aristocrats arlstocrats crats a fourthVarna fourthVarna fourth fourthVarna Varna Becomes a Summer Resort . , . Varna Varn'l Varnl ' , , on the Black ElJck sea , used to be bea bea bea a grain port , but when the boundary boundarymaker boundarymakers boundarymakers maker makers . ! > , gave the rI rich h granary of the theDobruJa theDobruja theDobruja DobruJa to Rumania the city lost its itscommercial ( Itscommercial ts tscommercial commercial Importance . W When Wi > en wheat failed , little httle diops dlOps drops of water and UtUe little UtUeglams littlegrains llttiagiains glams grains of sand s'lnd slnd ' did their bit . On the thesplendid thesplendid thesplendid splendid sea cea ; front , commodious bath- bath bathhouses bathhouses bath-houses bath houses - , houses and seaside villas were built builtand , and summer visitors now flock In from fromaU fromall fromall aU all ov os 0 ' cr er central centr'11 centr11 ' : Europe Curope to revel In sea seaand seaand seaand and sunI sunI sun sunI I or a n time the time authorities tried to toI toreserve toicserve I eserve reserve the central section for marrIed marrIedfolks marriedfolks marriedfolks folks , , but they persisted In forgetting forgettingto ! to brin bring their marriage licenses hcenses . , , and andI andmled andmired andmixed I ml\ed ml ed mired ' \ bathing Is now firmly estab estnb- estnb estab- estnbI1shed established established - - lished I1shed On the wings are screened sec seCw sea seCwtlons seations sections tions tlons where men and women are Iso- Iso IsoI Isolated Isolated Iso Isolated - - I lated and can dispense dIcpense ; with suits , lie lieIn lieIn liej In the hot sand t\nd t nd send ' \ and let Old Sol shoot shootI shoothealth shoothealth shoothealth I health Into them through every cery , pore . Deprived of Dobruja's Dobrujas ' bread , Varna Varnadecided Varnadecided Varnadecided decided to cat eat cake ; and vac'ltloners vacltloners vacationers vacationersIn vac'ltlonersIn ' In Increasing numbers shat shaie shame e and pro pro- provide provide provide - - vide the fun Hotels claim to offer offerBulgarlan offerBulgarian ulgarl'ln ulgarlln Bulgarlan ' , , Hungarian Hungar1'ln Hungar1ln Hungarlan ' , Bohemian Bolreml'ln Bolremlln ' , nnd and nndGermun andGerman andGerman Germun German cooking coo.mg coomg ! . , but French rrench rrenclm habits habitsare habitsare habitsare are not yet ; et understood In Bulgudaone Bulg'1rla Bulg1rla Bulguda Bulg'1rlaone Bulgariaone ' one eats chocolate but drinks drInk3 cocoaSouth cocoaSouth cocoa cocoaSouth South of ot Varna Varn'l Varnl ' Is l\Iesemvriya l Iesemvriya Mesemvriya \ Mesemvrlyawhere , . where Bv7antine B)7antlne B7antlne Byzantine ) emperors used to dis- dis disport disport dis disport - port theJDseh themsels themselves es In the : Eusine Cuxme Euxine ITom From ITomthe Fromthe Fromhe the ( sands many m'lny mlny may ' antique treasures have havebeen havebeen havebeen been rescued , and anel there still exist e"Clst eClst ecist " im- im imposing Imposing Im Imposing - posing ruins of Byzantine Byantme ? churches11ll1tay churchesMilitary churches churchesMilitary \ Military 1\1ll1tay 1 1ll1tay : service senlce Is not obligatory obllgatory In InBulnrln InBulgaria InBulgaria Bulnrln Bulgaria , , tliough though It Is expedient e"Cpedient eCpedient " ; but butIn , . In 1n addition addItlOn to the few days of tem tem- temporary tem- tem temporary temporary - - porary labor " which "hlch hlch male m'lle mlle mile ' subjects are aresupposed aresupposed aresupposed supposed to render to their 'countryevery countryevery ' ountry country , . every eighteen year old does eight eightmonths eightmonths eightmonths months of obligatory labor under what whatresembles whatresembles whatresembles resembles military mllltary dlscipllneLands disciplineLands discipline dlscipllne disciplineLands Lands are arc reclaimed , roads and andbridges andbridges andbridges bridges built , railways rallwavs I lepaired epaired repaired , eroding erod erod- erodIng eroding - ing mountain sides reforested , ram ram- rampant rampant rampant - pant rivers tamed hmed , relief shelters shellers constructed con con- constructed constructed - structed , and good citizenship cltI7enship learned learnedby learnedby learnedby by these organized laborers , or tm- tm trn- trn trndosalcs tmdoaIcs tro-dovaks tro dovaks - doaIcs dosalcs , Their badge reads , "Work Work "Workfor "Workfor "Workfor Workfor " for Bulgaria Bulg'1rla Bulg1rla ' " This labor corps Is one oneot oneof oneof ot of the time most distinctive features ot of otmodern ofmodern ofmodern modern Bulgarian UfeProtective lifeProtective life Ufe lifeProtective Protective tariff walls always look looklower looklower looklower lower from the Inside , . and In DulgarIa Bulgaria Bulgariaas , ns as elsewhere , , a heightened nationalism nationalismjealously nationalismjealously nationalismjealously jealously guards Its Infant industries Industries.To IndustriesTo . . To Its fine woolens the country has al- al already already al already - - ready added sugar sug'lr suglr ' . , , cotton cloth , , sIlks silksflour . , , flour , baby b\by b by ' \ carriages , . bicycles , hIdes hidespaper , . paper , cigarettes , rubber shoes , and andeven andeven andeven even automobile automobne tires Although AJthough ce- ce cereals cereals ce cereals - - reals , , . tobacco , eggs , and chickens are areamong areamong areamong among the principal prlndpal exports , Bul Bul- Bulgaria's Bulgaria's Bulgaria's - garia's garias ' ' most distinctive product Is at- at attar attar at attar - tar of roses , of which it produces producesthrcefourth producesthreefourths producesthree-fourths producesthree fourths thrce-fourth thrce fourth three-fourths three fourths - - of the time world's worlds ' supply supply.Rose supplyRose . Rose Industry ImportantJahanglr ImportantJahangir Important ImportantJahangir Jahangir Jahanglr , . the Mogul cmperor emperor emperoramused , amused Nur INur ur Jahan by piping rose rosev rosewater rosowater v . water nter through her garden at Deihl Delhi Delhiand . , , and upon Its surface surfllce she first discov dIscov- dIscovered discovered discovered - - ered tlie the bright pearls of attar Later Lateran Lateran Lateran an old Turk , seeing the wild roses of ofBulgarIa ofBulgaria ofBulgaria BulgarIa , Induced his compatriots to tostart tostart tostart start the Industry Indm.try Indmtry . which wimlch won for tho the thoplaIn theplain theplain plaIn between the Balkans and the theMIddle theMiddle theMiddle MIddle Mountain 3lountala the name ofuThe of uThe "The The uTheHose "TheRose "TheRose TheRose " Hose Rose Valley " The rose , as symbol of ot beauty , . Inno2ence Inno Inno- Innotence Innocence - - < cence tence 2ence and modestv modesty modes J , has insplied Insphed inspired count count- countless countless countless - less legends legencls and songs ever since it itvas itwas Itwas vas was , born with Aphrodite from the time sea seafoam |