Show I TAFFETA SATIN LA E I ST STYLE LEl FEATURES EA l RES I IBy By y ANNE RITTE RITTENHOUSE HOUSE NEW V YORK May 6 lt It It would seem that women and dressmakers 11 had li very little initiative in m the way o of of new fabrics to judge by the way Yay the majority instinctively choose choose taffeta ela Kows Hows upon rows of taffeta gOW gowns IS and suits hang in m the glass cases at the smart dressmaking places sno surely wearing there are miles of women clothes of this material all over the continent Either from lack of originality i or or hopelessness neither the layman nor northe northe northe the expert appears to make malte any from strenuous effort to get away the fabric The fact that the wh wholesale whole whole- le sal sale c houses houses- ha have havo vo sen sent t j it t out to all channels of trade does not stop the i exclusive houses houses' from selling it a high price And the strange part of It is that no one admits being tired of It It has gathered to itself some of th the reputation for reliability of blue serge From childhood Jo old age we women of America have worn this latter fabric without demur I If II looks as i though taffeta will share the same fate New coat suits are made of it in blue Havana brown and several j shades of tan including the popular biscuit tone and although women who live Jive in hi the North or are going North for the summer are again having their suits m made de of blue serge those inthe In Inthe inthe the rest of the country prefer taffeta feta But Satin Is Creeping In Although no woman hesitates t to If have a ve her most formal evening gown made of taffeta especially when It Is in the soft colors built up up with lace and touched up with roses she finds satin an attractive substitute substitute tute and is glad that it has been reI returned returned re re- I turned to fashion Satin suits are appearing on smart women also and if anyone Is looking for a good choice of coat and skirt a bit different nt from what every other woman has there is everything to say In faVor of black satin trimmed with wide soft black silk braid the skirt laid in double box plaits attached toan to toan toan an Irregular and shallow allow hi hip yoke the bottom bottom trimmed with three three graded bands of braid between knees knees and hem the coat short slightly curved in at the waist the sleeves long and plain and all edged bound with braid the fronts should hould be faste fastened ed with two buttons one below the collarbone the other slightly below the waistline waistline waist waistline line the space between open to show a blouse of fine white batiste The inrush of silk silk net in in ina a new pattern has cause caused an immense amount of satin Patin to b be ordered by the dressmakers to be used as a foun foundation foundation a- a tion and probably as a a. bodice The majority have not realized that net gowns ought to be ultrafashionable for forthe forthe forthe the late spring and summer The new net Is coarser than what we have been wearing and it has a broken surface It has Bas a square or round rounda 0 a mesh a polka dot large or small a athin athin athin thin trailing vine design or a stripe Possibly all these new nets net co could ld be classed under the head hea of point d' d esprit One of the he the vest designs i is called a net and other weaves are so coarse that at first glance t they ey would A not appear appear suitable for evening frocks Yet if one does not like them for formal gowns they are admirable for afternoon frocks over the thinnest silk lining A quarter of a century ago these nets in black and white were the choice for afternoon frocks with slightly low necks and elbow sleeves and as far fat as one can see the wheel will ill turn back twenty twenty five five years and these gowns ros will again be in fashion New Nets Solve Many Difficulties It is strange that these varieties of point have not been returned returned re reo re- re turned to fashion before Whenever they have been offered to the public they have received an enthusiastic welcome The reason Is not difficult 0 o explain The majority of us in America live in a climate that would seem to demand mosquito netting as asa asa asa a covering during some months of the year and point is really mosquito netting de If If one does not make the mistake of adopting adopt adopt- lag ing a lining that offsets the comfortable comfortable comfortable comfort comfort- able coolness of the net one gets possession pos pos- possession session of a frock that does not add to the heat heat and and burden of the d day y In black trimmed with black satin it serves in some communities as a morning as well as an afternoon gown There are women women who are having such frocks made for summer resorts the skirt short bodice slim the sleeves elbow length the neck open the touch of color given by a broad sailor sailor- of ecru str straw w trimmed with dull pink roses and black satin ribbon Others who like a more brilliant note have llave wide green sailor Bailor hats with a band hand of black ribbon rib rib- ribbon bon and a jet buckle Astounding Success of Lace When the spring fashions first dame Came ame out rumor was WIlS verified In in- inthe the use of lace on a var variety ety of admirable gowns and with each month has appeared evidence of the fact that l lace ce grows stronger as the summer advances Evidently there is some genius at work in France Prance designing new new fantasies fan fan- In lace for tor each month weare we are getting it in new new designs adorned with whit bullion bumon thread and with painted and embroidered rows ross There is 18 no diminution in the outpouring of s silver stIver lver lace although gold has lost Its fashionable position Silver in dull doll bright and in m tarnished shades is ls put on evening gowns when they are not made of metal gauze and deep flounces flounces' of white l lace ce W with allver all sil- ver embroidery are used with t taffeta with with satin and in combination with silk netI net I Women have grown tired of taffeta embroidered with huge silver flowers although ough the fabric is fabric Is still offered by shops and dressmakers The better element of well dressed women prefer prefer pre pre- fer to apply the roses whether th they y yare are of silk or or r metal One would think that with tl the e in Incoming In coming of so much lace and point satin and satin only would be the legitimate choice of lining Iming but flimsy as the they may seem chiffon chit I Ifon fon ton and coarse net tIet het ar are being eing exten exten- used It is a day of petticoats and therefore therefore there there- fore one can indulge In a diaphanous 1 fabric for a lining If it one wishes The new petticoats for evening wear are made of lace or thin crepe de dechine dechine chine but they are sufficiently protective pro pro- Roses Painted P r fed and nd Otherwise Two fashions have crept ln lm upon Us almost unawares and threaten and threaten to J rule us completely this s summer mme One is the application of roses and the theother theother other Is the band hand painting of fabrics The rhe return to the sartorial epoch of Louis Philippe and Louis XV brought about the roses and no one knows knovs what brought about the hand painting paint paint- ing unless It was was was' a desire qu 01 the part of artists to make more money The milliners started the fashion by getting out a hat the sole adornment of which was an enormous hand painted p parrot This piece of millinery milli milli- nery nerr which was quite expensive was extensively copied over this continent until now us its ts imitations can be bought for a very small sumIt sum It was undoubtedly this Parisian I parrot that started the ball rolling and now hand painted hats as well welt as hand painted fabrics are quite the fashion The rhe first thing next to a parrot that everyone wishes to paint Is a arose rose These are placed all over straw hats but happily th they y yare are not mind mingled min I with parrots The use of roses is not restricted to the hand painted I variety They are used as trimming on an n all kinds of gowns from serge to 1 tulle Rarely any color is used but pink o and aud this appears in silk satin I and velvet Thre months ago any woman i would have exclaimed at the idea of trimming her summer hat with pink I roses She would have thought such choice of adornment belonged to the bread and butter days of dr dress ss but i now she accepts the new dictum without without without with with- out question She not only uses pink I roses on her hat but around her waist I as a girdle Over her shoulders in I place of sleeves as a method of I catching up the drapery on the sides of her skirt and nestling against the lace or tulle that outlines the decol- decol I of an evening gown Several shades of light pink ink have been brought into fashion fashion b by the use I of these roses Worth makes evening evening even even- ing gowns in m plain and brocade pink satin Callot uses a pink rose or a fluff of ostrich f feathers athers at the right I hand corner of her square decol decol- Lavin uses a pompom pompom of pink ostrich tips on her black lack hats and the American American- dressmakers are copyIng copy copy- Ing Chanels Chanel's sport suits In the palest pink satin for country wear Many of the most expensive sweaters sweat sweat- ers are in various shades of pink some as as deep as raspberry and white I Sport port coats of Jersey cloth are banded banded banded band band- ed with pink at hem and wrists Individual Hand Muslins New York has ilas been exceedingly Interested interested in In- in the fashion of having havinga a a. muslin muslin gown paint painted d for ones one's selfA self A young artist who came over from Paris to get some sonie work in this country country coun coun- try brought with her the idea of exploiting exploiting ex ex- ex fascinating muslin frocks in designs that are usually associated with English garden parties these designs do de de designs signs to be painted by hand on a white foundation Through the introduction of a young woman of power In the social and financial world this artist was able to get enough orders from fashion fashionable able people t to start her off oft in the right way She does about five flye yards yards' for for- fora a frock using using- double width white muslin and for for- this work she receives receives re reo re- re from 40 Upward Marie Tempest Tempest Tem Tern pest is wearing one of ot these gowns In a yellow and pink design the skirt of the muslin and the bodi bodice e of yellow yellow yel yel- low taffeta and many the of-the of the other French designers are exploiting muslin muslins muslins mus mus- lins lin with expensive stamped designs on them and taking this fact Into consideration with the success of the hand painted de designs igns In New York I any woman who chooses a a. charmingly I I figured muslin for an afternoon gown even though she pays a small price for it will be doing the correct thing I I We had exhausted our oar words and patience on high hats that came in with the snows of February and just when we were resigned to adopting them the broad brimmed low crowned sailor came sailing into first fashion I Such is the hopefulness about dress i it is never intended by the designers design J ers that everyone should dress alike and nd n sooner does the public get I pessimistic sUc than It has a chance to toI grow optimistic I All the French designers and most of of the American ones have originated excessively attractive hats for May and June and all that a woman has hasto hasto hasto to do to be well suited is to insist upon buying the hat that she likes The world of fashion Is filled with witha a number of them Ulem there are are brims that turn up although preference is is given to those that turn down there are brims that are square and those that are round some tilt at the front and back and lift at the sides It is not necessary that crowns should be high but it seems seem to be necessary that they should be large The small I insignificant crown is not tolerated on any kind of hat No one can deny the strength that the influence of sport clothes exerts over all the summer fashions therefore therefore there there- fore the shade hats hat's and especially those made of light weight straw are in the forefront The Impetus for these sport clothes came from France strange to say and the Ule American shops have taken up the idea with so much enthusiasm and elaborated upon it so indefinitely that it Is difficult difficult cult to get away from wearing sport clothes even when they are not becoming be be- coming There are thousands of women who know nothing of the duck skirt Informal blouse vivid sweater and tennis shoes as an everyday outfit outfit outfit out out- fit and their wishes must be fulfilled and their tastes catered to It is not amiss amis to sound a warning warning warn warn- ing note Dont Don't try to look If it that is not note your type If the majority majority ma ma- of your days are are spent on city streets do not dress as though you were walking In country lanes If your face shows hows the marks of age and experience dont don't wear a Mexican grass hat flaunting a painted parrot If It If your shoulders and waist line are thick and your figure broad dont don't wear a striped stripe lour sweater or an awning skirt If your ankles are not shapely do donot donot donot not call attention to them by we wear wearing wear wearIng r. r ing figured stockings Keep to plain white or black If your life is placed among surroundings surroundings surroundings sur sur- that call for informal clothes you will find by giving a little little lit lit- tle time and thought to it that the shops and dressmakers offer an admirable admirable ad ad- mirable compromise between the country sport clothes that are In fashIon fashion fash fash- Ion and the sedate city clothes that are rA not cool nor comfortable |