Show L' L jr BY J JOSEPH OSEP I 7 jf Fifth Avenue New v York CREATOR OF AMERICAN FASHIONS J As is s thou though h tho the richest aud and rarest rnest of and brocades were not enough b to satisfy tho can call for tor or luxury in thc dress dres veritable cloths of gold told and silver r with trimmings gs of real re l jewels such as 8 tacitly have bave heretofore been reserved for ro roy royalty alty tHy are arc re r sort resorted to Not quito this th point b has bios been reached in inthe the model I have 0 bad had sk sketched k for thi this week but butk nevertheless it more than hints of 01 the k gorgeousness that is permitted th this present pres- pres pres ont ent fashion season Its material is a gold cloth supple and softly of I. I shimmering a a. a wonderful l fabrie to work ork and at intervals it in i UI em- em on d in cut steel A graceful sur surplice sur surplice plIc of f shadow dow lace drapes th the cor corsage core 1 e and continues in fn a panel down one side r into a train while at th the opo site kite side i is a 3 pannier A banding bandin t of fur outlines e all the edges s' s It It is nothing short abort of marvelous elous wh what t can be 4 done ne with an n apparently incon incongruous lot Jot of materials material in the tho ha hands bands d of the tb really cally clever er designer de for some so e of tic the most successful I cc I was apo about t to say ay 4 the te most successful s ul costumes that b have c e been exhibited at the various fl alon this fall faU have been those whose color color- i logs and fabrics of them themselves elve seemed almost impossible of combination Th The mod model l post just Ut described for t. t exam am 4 pl Df f although h it nothing incon OUS' OUS in the wa way of at colorings mi might bt so o easily dl present reto t an at app appearance a ce of t impossible garishness for even en now pen heu all liberty j je it allowed tb there rt is a certain and very r 0 appearance of di discretion that is 8 characteristic h all Jl o of w which su suggests e tB that we we h have ve act actually IJ entered U upon upil 11 an era of good od in dress albeit it is 18 of unusual and ana nd unthinkable extravagance nc The Th feature which at the moment ii ill illmo ii mo inot ft t interesting i is the o sided one o effect Some O C of f the designers dt aro are this le lead d exclusively and n never ver m making th the two tiro t tides of their costumes alike In r relation to the i idea ta ie it ic extremely ex en x good o d otherwise ie it i 1 is a matter o of opinion at the hips h has s snot not Dot ap appealed to women this decade alCAd uli y ha hap bap p worked too h hard bard fd to lose Jose fancy and j ar are t too ardent admirers of f to be easily led Jed into a a. a mode mod th tbt t calls for ani any exaggeration of of the hipS arid and so o wh whenever and aud h however the pannier is entered in into to tho designers designer's it is always 8 with a keen appreciation elation dation of this this' p pha o of or the situation ati n and pannier acc accordingly ly i is is contrived con ri to fO o th that t it does not in tb the slight slight- bt gree interrupt or interfere with tie tE Hence o th the popularity of the ice side one nc I cl treatment It Jt will easily bo be o re recognized fro front from a study dc of the tho sketch that the Ion long line liae e if the flie side id ably counteracts th tb one n abbreviated by the Pa pannier ti r on the left loft i side idt Also AJO it will bo be observed at lit atthe atthe the fame same time that the pannier do don donot doe not n t produce any actual be beca because cau ca cause io the th little folds fold that are arc induced or created by the drapery are carefully arranged b below Jow to to f fall in a 3 direct line lin and on a a. l level lel el with yuth tb th the hips thereby not only onh increasing the any anywhere 1 l' l where here but accentuating the inward slope alpo po from frou the tho hips hipe down that is considered con con- so 50 desirable just no now Referring a again in to thc these e m metallic ma mal materials ma ma- l te which 1 at an any rate fate in the u uses t I t to which th they y are put arc are new I cannot cin can can- not tto too highly praise them or place too foo m mu much L' L stress tr on their adaptability to tp the prevailing trend in In mo modes c Wonderful Wonder ful as a as are ate thor other stuffs and wondrous ondrous aj as ar are the tho thin things being ae accomplished 1 b them they thoy are aro o as ac E. E nothing compared corn com pared parea r a with what is UI being done dono with I t th those e gently weaves leaves Some Some- c time t it is only uJ a touch that is required r I b a Pa panel panH l o or an in jet but bit it it is only th the designers designer's s fault i if that Ie touch docs not Dot make ma ke the Ule gown own I O One the other bund blind a as in the model illustrated the in metal t l cl cloth th fashions the thIS body of ef the tho frock while lac Jac lace or ci satin is 30 cc m merely i in the capacity p pf tr trimming n is one oue of these materials that us out o out t two in fact of differ differ- texture with which almost almot t every thing ai and c anything can an b be done one One I is i isa a. a marqui tto that tOme in all colera colors col col- ors era r Iolj ly woven oyen roy n with cry crystal al jot silver sil I ver r or gold beads the dc design sunk in by the weight ei ht of ot the beads so no t that t at a aI I little distance the pattern has bee what bat the effect of a bro brocade brocad ed It ie is charming BO so o rich rich vet et subdued d and f fO o pliable that bat it lends leads itself ita lf most gr griecI grace gracefully griec- griec cc I I fully fuli- to drapery draper of 01 any an do degree ree either oither of simplicity or complexity t The other ther material Jes a crepe creped d c chine i c and Bud yet et somehow suggests ts a n nr r silver er or gold cold gauze It has hils ho no o fi figure i I but butis is exquisite f for r evening o for formal t mal 1 afternoon gowns own or ening e wraps r j It would e seem seeni cm from all this that the tho thoI I r r moro Bore somber omber effects for or evening c. ev Din ning were cre ent rely beyond tho reckoning and in a a. sense that is l' true There Ther 18 ie a Ji au and brightness i 15 a about out everything w and for pr o. evening gowns OT no limit in this respect respect re re re- is ib set fat ct yet et ct withal black was never nev ne'- er ei more mora fashionable nor Dor certain certainly the i black Jae eveni evening i gown town D DOver ne er 50 jO O beautiful rand and seductive Here is IS a R model in inI I black blak that expresses aJ all t this 8 1 picture Victure to s a 9 a heavy beasy bea fine black crepe flo with the sides i I and pack hack cut lone Jone- enough MO io o that wh wb when n nII I II a fi flounce ucc of black velvet cut with uth twI two tw I Jio points J ts at t t the tio o side and a a 3 corresponding orre depression IOU nt at the center front is iF intro It pushes over oyer it a trifle and then thea instead d of the t e at the thc back baek the tho p space pico ec is taken up with an ex cx- V Venise lace Jace flouncing wh whoso so e low Jaw cr eredge cd edge c tucks into ioto the tho velvet flounce Jounce in ini i the same wa way Then further strain to th the flounce your your faucy see se in back le extended t nto a L a train and the entire I corsage draped raped with the thc Veni Venice Veni e. e I t I I 1 l f 1 ji f 4 0 r u I I t rl J ii f 1 I of r t I. I i J f t r 1 a t e et t I i t 1 1 l t I I 1 t I. I I H i 19 t j io I I I. I t t r 1 4 i 11 c t I r f I L 4 V J J t. t I I 1 I Ip ti p I I f I. I K II J p i I I FJ A I J r I j r 1 of I S L' L 7 I 9 I i I. I L I. I t. t t J t f J 1 I H L t j t jj rf I l 1 t I r 1 Kl O p J J l C l y c l lh This TIIs gown furnishes an excellent e em m pie of at the richness of t- t the te e n newest west mode J. J |