Show S FASHION TO TAKE UP SHEATH SKIRT jARMENT CAUSES CONTROVERSY lany Varieties and Shades of Opinion Opin-ion Offered = Managers of Mountain = Moun-tain Resorts Welcome Innovation Expert Denies There Is Psychology = Psy-chology in Dress y L YorkMlxcd In with all tho Sell questions of the hour Is burning her to sheathe or not to e albs problem You can got as many dlf m to opinions as there are people nt m unit It does not seem to affect the t sIde hotels so much As long as beaches and bathing the 1m ere are Er dance of the feminine costume with of tho season Is and to the success Ill But with the managers of the moun ke n resorts It Is different To quote t e of them r Its all very well to talk scenery a d janltatlon the lovely views and t e good food that used to go but en a man can take a boat or an auto 7 d get all these In an hour or two at Broadway he Isnt going to take m u o t dusty ride for the same result to we could sprinkle a few of these ° e nth skirts along the mountain alas there Is no doubt that the tr Emely painful sight so familiar to fed managers at present of an Adam ha I Eden without even a S9rpent uld pass away One i of them with Imagination pic I the scene as he has witnessed t p and as It might be M e ed I Affecting Women Tt Did you ever watch a lot of worn 1 tit trying to make out that they are fectly happy sewing and playing la Jilge and gossiping on the hotel bal IK if every ono mad as a hatter be IstuVl se she has been beguiled there In bp E belief either that she would have vb Itirtatlon herself or the opportunity bo commended From time Immemorial Imme-morial women have held their dresses up from tic ground apparently to protect pro-tect them in reality for other reasons If the same result can be attained with half the energy naturally the new fashion should be recommended to everybody Made a Sensation To one of the conservative stores downtown a young woman came tho other day quietly appareled as to color and cut of her dress hut with her i navy blue gown coquettishly silt to I tho knee displaying a dark blue silk stocking and a Louis Qulnze slipper of small proportions Sho began to buy some veiling with nonchalant ease and the girl behind the counter waited wait-ed upon her Ignorant of the distinction distinc-tion conferred Not for long First a cash girl makes tho discovery and brings a twin to see that she has not made a mistake The news flies about the shop It reaches the bargain counter and other places There is a sudden stampede and in tho midst of It the patron with a scorching look at tho crushing crowd which will hardly allow her to move makes her way to the entrance and thence with a flying leap enters a taxi whose driver looks down open mouthed and eyed to get her directions Disappointed Disap-pointed faces frame the door and one middle aged woman says cattily What did she expect In this same store a buyer a woman of many years experience is in tho Fr 1f IIERLlC8 r OOK IKl 01 ffJPjC 1 L BARBERPOUES same uncertainty as to tho sheath has skirt as overy one else but she some Information to give about It Invention of Paquin When Paquin died she explains I ho told his wife on his deathbed that the sheath skirt already known In the trado as tho Paquin skirt would be popular and Paquin mado few mistakes mis-takes But tho sheath skirt of which latest Improvement he spoke did not have tho provement you call It that It was simply a sheath not a dlrectolro sheath and was not slit The first skirts made at his establishment unusual effect in tho lishment had an slight looseness of the front just a material below tho waist known today to-day as the Paquin cut Tho success of the sheath then as now depended Its clinging to the figure showing on and ending at Hue and curve every tho feet with a fad of drapery suggested draperies of the ed by tho sculptured carefully statues If you noto a Greek turned out at the skirt sheath made establishment or at any other Paquln houses you will easily Parisian of tho resemblance and In tho Hellenic trace tho sheath is fact In some places this account skirt on known as tho Ionian count make tho sheath a success To attention must be given to tho great Paquin designed for Undergarments bloomers so that of It a new stjlo 0 petticoats need not bo worn and the waist and hip lines should not be destroyed by a lot of un necessary material Theso bloomers bloom-ers nt closely to the figure and are fulled slightly above the knee not too much mlud and have a tow rows of lace put on without very much surplus just sufUclcut to give tho dainty and feminine touch to a garment gar-ment which Is not essentially attrac tive All the models in his place wore these bloomers at first with tho sheath skirts Now silk tights or fleshlngs are worn if required as many women who wear tho sheaths prefer them just as many prefer to spoil their shape with tho Intrusion of the old stylo petticoat or drop which should never bo worn with them Producing the Soft Fall Tho soft fall about the feet which Is so much admired by the aesthetlcal ly Inclined Is produced by various devices de-vices usually small shot which are sowed to a band of tape which In turn Is fastened to the edge of the skirt or a few Inches from the edge as preferred pre-ferred Paquin used a rubber band at the knee which went around the skirt and drew It In to give tho required effect ef-fect when walking and some of the sheath skirts have two rubber loops through which the foot passes but this style although It gives tho sheath walk all right is very trying to an active ac-tive minded woman as she must never forget them and while she may not mind the consciousness she does mind the discomfort I remember one of my first views of the now sheath skirt was at the Paquin establishment and a model one of those lovely girls they have thoro began joking and laughing and insisted that she could stop just as far in a sheath skirt as In other kind She tried It and tore the costume all to pieces along the sides After that the sheath walk was adopted which Is the necessary result of the bands and shot shotAnother Another buyer thought there had been unnecessary fuss over the sheath skirt Puritanical Ideas Criticised The very people who will sit on a beach and watch the short skirted swimmers standing sitting and running run-ning about displaying lines and curves with generous abandon aro the very people who have theso Puritanical outbursts out-bursts at the mere idea of showing tho same amount of figure on the street Why Is it sho asked The pulpit has denounced the sheath skirt which ought to encourage the makers and one of the leading lights drawing room of the auto not of the business or tho professional world A few years ago business and professional pro-fessional women saw In the adoption of the tailor nudes tho short walking skirt and various other utilitarian modes a disappearance of the lines of demarcation between classes Today they are looking with dismay at tho chasm that Is opening Take tho sheath skirt as example A working woman must eliminate that from her wardrobe She could not appear ap-pear In court at her business desk In It not only because it would bo physically Impossible for her to do her work so swathed but also because It would bring into business and professional profes-sional life tho very feminine clement she Is trying to keep away The sheath skirt woman Is opposed body and soul to her sexs freedom The gowning of to day is a challenge Use all the arguments you have at your disposal ono woman says to hor sister of the other world and we will destroy thorn with the waving 9f a scarf and the curve of a figure In a clinging gown An expert on womans dress who has given 37 years of his life to Its study poohpoohs tho Idea that there is any such psychology In dress Nothing of tho kind ho says firmly firm-ly Ho says it as one who knows I do not think It is necessary to find occult explanations for such obvious facts Paris Needed the Money The truth of the matter Is that Paris is hard up She has suffered severely from our little panic Russia too ono of her wealthy patrons has also fallen off in her orders Paris hasnt known what to do and has put her wits to work to evolve something to appeal to n jaded taste and above all to the American market Whether we will prove gullible I I cannot say for it is as difficult to prognosticate here as in the publishing publish-ing or the theatrical world When The Old Homestead runs a thousand nights you are surprised when tho people suddenly demand Tho Soul Kiss when the romantic drama i seems to bo absorbing tho literary world and writers are busy studying history the taste veers and nothing but Dolly Dialogues will sell when you think women arc at last cutting out the futile and adhering more closely close-ly to utilitarian standards thoy shriek for sheath skirts with rubber bands to hamper their walk as a Chinese wom ans shoes bind her feet One thing we do know Fashions never really present anything new There Is only a continual turning of tho wheel Tho sheath skirt is not any red hang A l I uel a m n i re b2 1 1 4 CT ted t t t o U eU R C5 i i tSr IY ForQ rlYLr of 1h suMrrER iP eSO14J B FO1P declt m1 atom ym1 + dl4m Lela i ac making remarks about ono Note K same women when a man Is lent approaching pretending to be ini m adke event If they are unmarried and ferent dcaga married leveling opera glasses to as b If It may possibly be husband s of it fit them a surprise C peO 11 you have not had this experience i know nothing about the happy sterna nests of a hotel proprietors life 1km o Is confident from past knowledge ds aitt t when the cloud of dust resolves as bet 11 1 Into a human figure It will bo Senar henpecked swain of the most uniting I tropp un-iting woman in the bunch and It ol0 suffers from the thousand and ono plaints which can all bo traced tot bllrb0 to-t source es t lnless the sheath skirt gets too nor Nffl I am Inclined to believe that I me Ic mIght do a great deal to relieve tios situation but mind I say might sad Tut Mil Id be willing to furnish some t to on spec If I could get the worn to do their part a aeon h U It Strikes the Kitchen ably i 6 oman of the domestic variety romiat Oct magazine editors study closely of gee I m out what to give the world to to mst I asks with a deep wrinkle ben be-n the eyes that denotes unaccus deS ed thought What will happen sister n the style strikes the kitchen o vb It always does she says act eged ethlng now and next week Agglo to Iiora 1 or Mary has It In an oxag o Is ac ted 1 form e aef Our maid at present wears striped kIngs not stripes running up and mWad io n hut round and round These she alga of es With largo plaids and her visible 3 thro at of support look like dropsical v Sara dr Poles reet C5 i agree with my husband who says Id St there is nothing more attractive a firer the sight of a charming 1ombg Sued In silk openwork through n rhich d OpenIng but not tho cooks gatloale bg If you please I look forward le the l + horror to tho time when she will rasista I the soft shell crabs and tho char prosudt i Hot a rasa In a costume of that do ha pUon B hais No split skirts In my house yeeS If You please J en t lgce 1 a Physical culturlst puts It on the apdt of economics omtnaD omtnaDfI nrthtng 8nS sho that will save that tblst hI tpendltulo of nervous force Is toe to-e In In In y Iul4 I orrecL died i I otL 57 v1 1 t a c5UGGEcST0 fd7tf CSUMMER t fEc1OiPr AFTER el Urrf17YrlflE iYrtrEi + lOIU L WoatEN Mr q I7l7vfyLrDryE7R0iPG c5 tSLrrs aP In the suffrage cause has come boldly forward in Its favor The stage backs and fills A club woman Interviewed on tho subject says that sho considers tho new style to have a distinctly psycho logic significance as all fashions have I consider it tremendously important impor-tant as showing the trend of modern thought sho says Every epoch of transition and change In political and religious matters has had a corresponding corre-sponding reflection In tho sartorial Look about the streets today and in other public places and you will notice that tho tailor made girl Is conspicuous by her absence If a sailor hat Is worn or a Panama masculine mascu-line In severity like as not it is swathed with a chiffon veil and plumes and wings aro added All along the line you will notice a frantic effort on tho part of the women wom-en to show the world that they are clinging fast to tho womanly charms of seductive dress to tho frills and fancies and fads that woman has been taught to believe aro tho symbols of her power and that she has little real simplicity sympathy with tho republican her i plicity that would bo foisted upon by a minority of her sex She eschews everything that Is severe rigid masculine mas-culine and riots In the distinction drawn between her gowning and that of women who aro trying to waken their sex to something more Important than chiffons Simply Swing of Pendulum Paris showed tho same tendencies right after tho simplicity enforced by the French revolution and every crisis of history thero has had a similar effect ef-fect The prevalent fashions of today are tho fashions of the boudoir of them newer than a gray hair or a wrinkle During the Directory It was ono of a thousand styles Paris was mad crazy at that time License reigned In everything especially In dress and manners but even Paris did not care for the style any longer than the three months and If dear old naughty Paris drew the line It would seem that we ought to cut It out |