Show I uii S FA5UIONS I The English Woman Adopts I French Styles but Keeps I Her Strong IndividualityStyles in Millinery Become r Aore SimpleThe Directoire Coat and Louis Seize I I Styles i i i I London July 34L Even In its most frivolous phases English fashion maintains a certain air of solidarity and unconscious poise which Is as far from fife briskness and dash of the American styles as it Is from the chic and subtlety of the French There Is a great charm In this Indefinable In-definable quality which one feels more and more as one studies English women I wo-men and their dress Undoubtedly l this sevore style with I I nowfor the Influence of Paris is felt especially at the season of calm In the r fashions The recent garden fete for the ofH cers families fund at Sheen house Rust Sheen In which Lady Lansdowne has so deeply interested herself proved a brilliant success In every Avay All of London society was represented and the beautiful costumes worn were a treat to these so trivial as to feel a keen Interest In dress The garden fete was opened by Lady Lansdowne who J wore a charming gown of gray i THE LOUIS XVI CORSAGE t I MV 1 I p E ii I f rsy r t ij fitJ lf7t I LJ r = I R 1 0 tug r 7rlt J 1 r L v I + t r ry f I P < 1 iffjv e l 1 This extremely smart modish corsage Is I constructed of embroidered taffeta The back forms a coat while the fronts arc cut shorter and are doublebreasted The upper crossing front Is cut out In two points and held by the antique buttons but-tons the upper part of tho corsage opens upon a plastron of guipure over a transparency of cream satin The Helm Is of embroidered moussellno do sol the collars of guipure and the elbow sleeves have a turnedback cuff of embroidered cream satin its smartness and simple elegance Is best suited to this vital type of woman and she Is In fine form when adhering to her own thorough and compact way of dressing This summer however the furore for all that Is eminently feminine frivolous and fussy Is telling very strongly upon the English modes and never perhaps has London seen such flocks of airilyclad fashionables Batistes moussellnes voiles and silk gauzes are greatly In evidence Just glace handpainted in a design oC green ferns and trimmed with pleat Ings of green and gray mousseline She carried a beautiful bouquet of pink roses and did tho honors most graciously gra-ciously The Princess Christian and her daughter Princess Victoria were among the first visitors to the fete Princess Christian wore a gown of per venche blue voile with a chemisette of guipure The color of the gown was In most artistic contrast with the bunch of mauvecolored orchids which A SMART BATHING COSTUME L j t p > I iF I r i 1 t r 4t a r 1 f 1Yj > r f > J I 2 d 11i < I J < 1 1 J I 7 A It r i y Uf H I I t y I I II I I S r I > f tl 1 I Ii I A I I I 1 I I l < H f j I > j t r 1 ti Y tc I tk 11 I c a 3 I i fl I Ji > j I tf J J r i pR 3 r T14 a f r I I i y < te tj I j Ii The Summer Si found that mob air most cafully retains j I j end style when vvct rhifi one lmt of russet brow ItnorlHpncsfl Iir ttlon oif white mohalr applIqueiid t white braid n with an elaborate i oriiumcnlu r I rrr I frI PHASES OF FASEI02T I V S UI1iIER WBAPS A I 5 r = 7 i it r n f l t c vvvs ilro I CW N3 jAT7 l ft rAI r3 < U V 5 1 7ii 9 t I f f iR r l ir 1 J + I 7p 4l 1 I 1 4 = = 0 I r I Ii4 D c C k s t I r5 ± I pyrl I r Y 1 < t yr < l wd 1 47 4 ti4All9 r I In these three figures valuable hints of Ihc overclumping modes arc to he found In the figure to the left we havo a French model ot a mantilla the smart little wrap now In vogue with Parlblennco the lltilo tilted cape which Comes over tho shoulders and forms a deep point In front Is of white gauro brocaded In velvet lldwora and mounted upon a white taffeta foundation The scarfllko drapery which outlines this little fitted wrap Is of black taffeta with a deep silk fringe hanging over the shoulders which ends where the rosolto holds the shoulder drapery In plnco on each side oC tho front The silk drapery continues down the side of the fronts to the point at tho waist where It Is held by a smart largo bow the fringed ends of which fall nearly to the bottom of the skirt The second figure shows a typically English model of a coat which Is a race coat of Ivory cloth lined with brocho silk and trimmed and fastened with silk tassels The extravagant lowing sleeves of which show how daring present cuts The draped capulhon and great Haring collar arc other marked features of the modes Even moro smart perhaps Is the coaching coat upon the third figure which Is of palo tun cloth with Its novel scarf and streamer ending Its half cclnture which partially encircles the waist These halflength coats arc shown among fall models A DAINTY FROCK OF BLUE EOLIENNE I < y r 4LjfT j Jcth 1 jII 1 t V 4 r 1 II tit J I tJ j t 4yl I I > 1 i > > J51 I Hit t r 1 1v c t r J J > l r ti a i I iti w I wt w I Ih i V f fJ ICE J UfiIC Tho waist of this graceful little gown which Is made of pastel blue colicnnc IK of cru gulpuio which Is hold into u glrdlo strapped with lines of narrow black velvet A very snort bolero falls over tho gulpuro blouse anil Is held Into groups ot small pleats which arc allowed to flare at tho bottom Oinaments m of ecru laco aro applied upon tho snqooM between tho pleats and Insertions of ecru laco adorn tho Jacket fronts and elbow Mloivew which have a nuidlng of mnHMolIno at their base rho strappings of velvet which trim the glrdln are also introduced below tho collar between Iho ftniiis of thn bolero and at the brio of the puffing of moiiKsollne at tho elbow the skirt Is I pleated In little lingerie pleats with Incius I tatlons of tho ecru taco In Lands which appear to be caught In a single knot In tho I center of tho front she held In her hand Princess Vic torias gown was of white mousscllne and lace nho wore one of those largo toques of gauze which seem to be peculiarly pe-culiarly characteristic of the Ilngllsh fashion One of the most fascinating gowns I aw on this occasion was worn by a very distinguishedlooking American Amer-ican woman and was evidently a confection con-fection fresh from Pails It might bo described as n tone study In shades of rose The rose color merged Into soft pinkish tones of brown and old rather than a true bright pink but these moro Kombrc shades were lighted here and there by a touch of clear pink ribbon knots She wore with this costume a toque of brown cloth with a tangle of pInk buds and black and a beautiful brown boa of accordionpleated chiffon surrounded her neck The skirt of her gown was formed of three graduating flounces of moussellnc de sole the up per one oC which formed a tunic theso flounces were cleverly arranged so that the darker brownish shade fell ovor a ruched underflounco which was very scant and which was colored In a light shade of old rose whOwlng it bewilder ing change of colors as she moved acroEs the lawn or whenever tho flouncea were fluttered by a passing breeze The flower stall which was under the auspices of several popular young bachelors was presided over by Luly Hood who was assisted by some charmingly welldrepsed young maidens maid-ens The vending of the llowcra prbv Ins a rather too arduous task for the young men who gladly relegated It lo their sinters and mothers Lady Hoods appearance was delight fully picturesque With a costume oC pure white voile which showed nol no-l leam of color she wore a largo picture pic-ture hat OL black Her gown was beautifully beau-tifully cut and lilted to tho figure and Hhowed some of the latest notions of fashion The Djrcctplre style was given by a coat of the white voile substantially mounted upon glace silk and bordered by a band of stitched white satin The front showed wide rovers which extended ex-tended over the arm in harp points and tapered to nothing the waist whole four large pearl buttons with buttonholes of satin gao a smart trimming to the Jacket fionU The large turnedback cuffs wero also smartly trimmed with these great buttons and buttonholes In the back the coat way made to continue In long wide talhi that reached quite to the bottom of the skirt The front of the corsngr wao of blend net over mous seline Incrusted with appliques of guipure gui-pure the pattern of which was varied by tufltngs and embroidery of chiffon Which gave a very rich effect of fluffy embossed lowers on the pallet of the taco Among the bevy of girls who were assisting In the sale of flowers were Miss Chester flusters and Miss Llndo The hitler wore a pretty little twine colored muslin with a large black hat trimmed with green loses 01 Ins UudonPowell the sister of the hero was I much feted l and I sought af u ter She wore an exquisite little gown of cream chiffon which was elaborately tucked and trimmed with a very pretty I applique of cream satin put on In a scroll design and In bands The skirt was formed of countless little tucks which were released not far from the bollom where the scroll applique OL ribbon formed a deep border between narrow bands of ribbon al the top and bottom Just below the waist a number num-ber of these bands spaced at short Intervals In-tervals encircled the skirt and seemed to form a yoke at the top of the skirt Over this little yoke effect was a stylish sty-lish drapery of soft chiffon festooned In pauler style This drapery ended In the back in a bow with short loops and two long scarf ends which came to the bottom of the skirt end were finished In a soft fringe of silk Moss It is apropos to mention here that thIs yoke effect upon the skirt is gainIng gain-Ing high favor as the season advances and promises to assert Itself strongly by the fall Whether pnnlera will take In anything more than this tentative and meager form remains to be seen but certainly there is a decided leaning toward peplums yokes and trimmings about the hips I was particularly struck with the predominance of blue gowns at this fete and concluded that the rage for blue is even stronger In England thane with us Theie were a number of black and white costumes also which were very charming Among the latter Lady Randolph Churchills gown deserved de-served some comment It was with some Interest that I studied her wondering all the while about her imminent marriage to a youth an much as twenty years her Junior and looked closely for traces of her years She was thoroughly I happy and brilliant in appearance however and though somewhat matronly tronly in figure gavB tlie impression of a young and very handsome woman Her gown was of while mousselino ornamented with quantities of narrow black ribbon and small pearl buckles The skirt had a deep yoke of the smocked mousseline to which a series of fluttering flounces were attached The sleeves appeared beneath an epaulette epau-lette of mousscllne and lace and were shaped Into a graceful ball at tin elbow The lower sleeves being ol lace and havJnir rows of narrow black strap pings which were held In place by pearl sequins The yoke and chlmlselte of the gown was also of lace with strap pings of velvet ribbon across the shoul a festoons oC < the der bow knots and dcr shoulder ribbon unending from one glrdloand on to across the walsl to tho glrdlo tho bottom of the skirt prevailing style In millInery The fash onab r which seems to hold all the this toquc swirling world is the wide I seems to be mil to at Its zenith of popu thorough > larlty and is indeed a most English looking hat I notice It eyes > but as yet It where among the elite seems to have escaped the oarlcitiinm and has not appeared hand of the masses pcared In cheap and inartistic shaped hats appeared In aunohade Some new ideas l > since at Heuley und peared not long fU v v while scarcely promising to maintain moro than a passing popularity they at least signify a growing simplicity in taste and a lightness of touch in millinery mil-linery These sunshade hats made In tiers of airy whIte materials and flopping flop-ping In an ingenue fashion about the face present very much the appearance appear-ance of childrens sun hats One very attractive girl wore a wide brimmed white chip wIth no other trimming than a single wreath of black roses which In spite of their violation of nature gave a very charming and simple effect The dlrectolre coat a charming creation crea-tion with Hllle shoulder caps large lapels and rather full skirls or basque bids fair to rival the long Empire coat and the full gathered skirt which Is distinctly of the Louis Seize time as I Is also the sharp pointed bodice Is a i certain and appropriate accompanl I i THE LATEST GOLD BRAIDED BOLERO ew 1 t u J ty J 1 4c hiVL 4 + + I i > f I I > 1 II I I w rc 1 t 4 L 1 1 tt cl + 4 j f I IJ E2 v l z 1 j n L J I I I I t 1 I ThL smart corsage loot rouocolored reeling The 3hort and rounded bolero Is hordlred with a bias oC white taffeta strapped with bnudt of gold brlllll The I bolero opens over n cst of white taffeta hlch 11 cut low Ilnd t nlopeus In turn a pinstron or gathered over nmousscllno with a Dtllllbht collar Tho halrIei1th has a bonder at he l bottom sleeve The or sold braid stryplings like the hoeclurof thulacknt upper aleoo fnllHover bands over n lower sleeve DC while tarrel1l strapped satin plaIn lHlnrl lime hlstl slnHc I of ducat black taffeta Time skirl wllil 15 perfectly yellow J Is I today In a refreshing and delightful pl LureTo be sure she weara the frlllit and flighty trimmings of the French d I wlllt a somewhat sober and earnest mien but she lends them a dignity 4 I that lieu a peculiar fascination oil lire I and consoles us for some own lugs In their Bplclness and chic Hor frorfh and wholesome complexion Is doubly enhanced in the light and frothy Net ting she now affects and showing aslv she does a mysterious expression other ot-her thought and character In a fashion r of iliess which belongs strictly to another an-other type Is pleasing to look upon and consider A DgIN2Y STTJOIER GOWN I I It pi 115 1 1 < h1f < iflItfSt i rx3 1k i r d W j ii 1 I i I r llr 1 1 i 4I a + V iiir j J r jr 1 1 u I Jf hAt 1t i r Gown of corncolored crepe lc chine trimmed with cream chine and gatherrnul ribbon The blouse and upper alcoves arc a series of cropc u > cmno folds the > yoke and cuffs are of cream guipure bands with linen of gathered ribbon on mouRscllno do solo between them The bat Is of pac yellow crinoline with a scarf of drop corncolored noiiSno and a cluster of black centered yellow poppies covering I ment The fichu and closelvflttlng elbow sleeves following In the natural sequence of things I The present style of dressing the hair with its soft waving curls and vague undulation Is peculiarly becoming becom-ing to the classic English type Altogether the Englishwoman as she |