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Show C THE SALT LAKE TIMES. FRIDAY. MARCH 'J7, 1891 NEW STYLES FOR MEN. GARMENTS THAT ARE STAMPED WITH THE APPROVAL OF FASHION. oaU Are Lunger awl Trousers of Quit Bhnilii The Iny of "Loud" l'uUcroi U.i (.imu r.v .Ninilui'o In .law uuj Htvtt bliirt. reached in tho size (if neckwear. Tlio scarlings will comiuuo ample, in accord-ance with tho wide waistcoat openings, but there will tin a Idling fur bettor goods. Tho public lias como to know that tlio lowest priced neck dressings uro sometimes the dearest, and tlio of thin one permissibly decora-tive feature i if men's dress has been irreatly enhanced as against tin; counter-action of quii tudo in tliu rent of the make-up- . Tho tieablo scarfing are growing in favor as the various 1; not tins are rapid-l-y being mastered. The wide U' rjj Asictiii Dcjoiuv illes, Purlin,;- - II K ppoc'n la ipiietilde ill 111111' outer iarmeiittf that m in M'Veral reasons iii:o may bo now said b) have ivachrd it climax. Ill severity mid sobriety of detail aiid i i,:v i.M'Id in the leiii'in;; f. iil.- - two of men' 0:1 Q Y 1 win M 1J J pavb tho fashion maiieiu can go no iurther. '1 he dull linish, solid color fabrics have to a :)y extent Bilcceede 1 the fancy milium tha were dear to tho heart of the in in of dressy inclinations, and oven apt and unostentatious a dec-ora' ion as binding upon tho coats of bi.ii k material has been superseded by tlio narrow, m itching. Tho diagonals, basket l..tlis and CMooth biii'I'aco tcxtiiles have bi'eu j TIIR I'ltlM'K AI.W-tH- s;!ir.T. tons, Onee-ovvr- Waterfalls and other of the larger e:;amples in lino neckwear will contuino to bo tho choice of tho well dressed men. fchehed ill the trend toward eotnberness, mid tho Thibets, Vicunas and rouh f.td'd cheviots have taken their place. Tho divsssuit is now more prevalently made in tho dull fini.di fmo worsted f, and the velvet collar on the coat is now tho ultra affectation for evenin;,' dress. That servicea'de and, to men of rood fi;;ure, becoming garment (,( fci tlio Prince Albert truck, lias really ceased to be fashionable. It is succeeded by th.i three button cutaway, thittkiits thereof beiiiK made fuller mid longer, tin reby teem ing an elTei-lo- Kiv iler formality. A minor but important ehaui;.) that will apidy to all coats is that they ill 1.3 Blijjutly loi:-o- r. This tendency has been in pro tivss for several jtarspast, und, (iioii'-d-i gradual, the dilferenee is (juito inarl;ed bet wo n (ho sack co.'it of JKSH, that came down to about tho mid- - tlio lino of the hips, ami the taiiiilar irar-niei- it of tiii3 season, that nhould be sev- -' eral inches longer, and in further con- - tradibtiiiction but ulightly cut away in front. Tho sinirlo breasted sack coat will bo in tho lead, and in mixed suitings tho cadet und black and blue and gray coinbinaiioiis in (juii t tones will bo tho most fancied. Anion;: t'' novelties, however, will bo what is known in goods as the iuvifiblo plaid" patterns, shown iu An- - In collars there is a tendency to in- -i creased height, abhoiigh a freak era cannot be to bo impending. Still, tho standing collar is not to bo outdono in altitude by its turndown confrere, and the result is that wo may, after all, be rooii following in the wake of Prince Kddio of Knvdaml, whose expanse of linen won for him tho of "Collars and Cuffs." Tho highbuckoil turnover has proved the suecesn of the collar industry iu this country. It is the only stylo iu men's wear that Ktiglund lias ever taken from America. The Londoners are now wear-ing this sensible and distingue stylo a the latest rage in th-- i British capital. Wide bosomed, plain, dull laundered finish shirts are the eminently "propah capah" tor full dross. Throe studs should be worn, as this is the number of a com-plete set, and two shirt 'ids worn would occasion tho inference that one had been lost or mislaid. Tho dress waistcoats are cut very wide in a V shaped opening, and the shirt fronts must bo correspondingly expan-sive. There is a positive novelty in this pip!! ll;';l:;i:-- i oji; U: ..lijtiuijii'ji,,:! ,i ': mm f '".1 ViUill staple branch that is known us the "Prince Albert." You do not have to put this shirt, on over your head, thi wrenching the garment and disarranging jour hair after brushing. It os ns and buttons all tho way down the front, and poes on like a coat. It is easily laun-dered, and can be made to fit tho figure without any of that extraneous fullness of muslin required in order to get the regulation shirt. on over tho arms with-out tearing. Tho coat shirt would sown to work an advance in habilimentocracy when this important garment may be donned in a legitimate and Nineteenth century like way. The outing stuffs aro coming strongly into the market in tho various branches of their manufacture, but a discussion tf them at this time before tho spring top coats have lioon put on would seem somewhat premature. Moreover, they will present such a largo and interesting field for comment as to deserve at the proper time an especial and isolated con-sideration in a treatment of "men's fash-ions in summer wear." Tho opera hat is coming in again, for which devout thanks are to lie rendered. Tho tall hat of spring is a conservative typo of file, not being a striking depart-ure from last season. A trifle moro bell shaped, and curved more sharply in the brim, are the deviations. And the derby liseijuallya well proportioned hat, be--I coming to almost any typo of man, long or short, stout or thin, that chooses to aileet it. it would seem, perhaps, from a hasty glance over this resume of the mutations THE 'f 01 (HAT OF STKINU. pora of various shades iu tan and brown. There will bo also many of those two color diagonal weaves in combinations, with gray always the leading motif. Trousers will bo cut in tho straight down stylo, neither too wide nor too loose, and tho dominant hue will be ca-det a shade of gray blue. The ttrip-ing- s are slightly more colorful than last season's, but tin) patterns aro yet iievtr loud. The narrow stripes of her-ring bone weave in blending of cadet and black, blue and black, gray and black touched with cadet threads, and with designs having a bit of lightsome color, give tho only glimmer of a more dtcoraiive feeding in cloths. Tho dark, rough faced light weight overcoats will be made sligli'ly longer, falling just over tho knee. Tho covert coat will roapjx-a- r as the pi 'pillar top coat of tho mild season in tho light tan colors associated with its name. It wiil be sis inches longer than the regulation covert, and will bo cut straight and roomsome, buttoning snap-pil- low down, with fly front Tho finish will be with (.trap beams and copious stitching. There wiil be fewer of the fancy cassi- - mere and silk waistcoutings worn than lias been the case in j'at seasons, but there will be a large, line of washable fabrics to make a choice from later on. Tho waistcoat, indeed, seems to bo the one article of men's apparel that has not been affected by the toning down proo- - It remain ly iu 'the TUB IIlllII HAT THE UEKBV. ' of style in men's dress that tho tion of the fashion arbiter, like that of Othello, "was gone." This is not so. As a matter of fact, in tho closer watchful-ness of detail, and iu a guidance to well dressed men as to how to avoid, in the slight latitude accorded in color and pat-tern, the slough of conventionality, there is a greater necessity for expert direc-tions. It is the laudable wish of every man of proper pride in appearance to be out of the pale of ordinariness iu his person-nel, and this may be nowadays only ac-complished by a close observance of tho amenities of attiro, coupled with a careful avoidance of the many pitfalls to experimentalists amid the various sole-cisms cf dress. '' "'oi onisov Claukk. e:;s. resplendent field ho single boon to which the man tint was wont to revel in the more fan-ciiV- il creations of bygone days may turn. One of the tilings id give thanks for, Lev. ever, those i epres.-iv-o (lays is the; of toe erratic personage fiat parvikd the weather during the Ih'sl l hive months of the year done up in a white duck waistcoat aud white ; OVtagaite.li to match. hi this may lie broadly as a "mauve season." The colorings all radiate from this key-note tint in darker and lighter degrees. There are gray, drabs, light cadets, dark cadets, rantig along the deeper J shade? to ninlbesrY, and in tho lighter tiia.i there are varieties of lavender and j pearl. In both the lighter and darker background textures there is a decorat-- ive treatment in mauve, the small figur- - jugs or tho tracery embellishment in the newer goods being in this shade. It is usually the case that some tone is selected "to tincture with a definite tint" the neckwear lines, and it is but a natural evolution from tho more virile steel blues and aggrotsive heliotrope prays of fall and winter to a graduation into the goutier mauve of tho milder kuasons. Tho hmit zuav ha sjiid to, liv hsum i The wite ot I'laiicis Scott Key? a gnuidoon of the author of the ".Star Spangled lianner," is about to go on th3 stage. Mrs. Key is a granddaughter of that, brilliane awyer and statesman Wiiliam Pincaicy, of Maryland, and i a fauiiliar figure in Laltimore society. Her maiden name was Tiffany, and she is connected with Hev. Dr. Tiffany. Mrs. Sarah O. Marsh, of Qnincy.Mich., has been appointed by Governor Luce a member of the industrial board, to fill the vacancy caused by the death of Mrs, Judge Cooley. Mrs. Marsh is a graduate of Albion college, and is eminently quali-fied to discharge the duties of the office. Towels have a wido hem and a double line of hem stitching. Iu the middle of one end, a little above the hem, a square or oblong four inches long is defined by & narrow embroidered vine worked with white linen. Within the space is a mono-gram in htavily rilled embroidery. Gen. Sherman left four daughters. The eldest, Eleanor, is the v tfe of Lieut. Thackara, of the United States navy, and another is the wife of Mr. T. Wr. Fitch, of Pittsburg. Tho two younger daughters, Lizzie and Kaehcl, are ADORNMENT FOR NECKS. THE GROWTH OF THE MODERN DE-MAND FOR TIES AND SCARFS. IliB Fashion of Toilujr Permits Lom Pro-fusion of Material mid of riorifootn Col. orliis Than Wan Conlilreil "Correct" by Former OneniUons. ror i little ttimg tmrt mm income a teessity of life i In) modern necktie is bout as interesting an object as one can race bark to early history. The evidently did not lielieve in bun-ding ll) tin) neck. Wilell cold they pro-ipet-themselves by a woolen, cotton or iilk band, call'-- in Latin "locale" from lie word "fuioos" (throai; but no one ;oulJ venture to use this contrivance Until about 1W.'0 cravats were made very wide in thecenteraud tap-re- oft to ward the ends. Still later they were worn narrow, often crossed in the front ami secured by a breastpin of largo dimen- - idous, a greater variety of patterns and materials also being introduced in their iiiaiinfactiire. Dickens, in describing Joiiii Chivory, Kpeaku of "a ehasH neckerchief much in vogue in those days, representing a preserve of lilac pheasant on a buff ground," while from tho sama author we know that onu of tho Cheery, ble brothers "wore his coat buttoned, and his dimpled white chin rested in ths folds of a while neckerchief not one of your stiff, Htarched, apoplectic cravats, but an easy, old fashioned, whito neck-cloth that a man might o to bed in and be none the worse for wear." Sixty years ago dress was a much morn important matter than it is now, and tha dandy of had uioro at stake than his brother of lsjtll. A mistake in tho form or color of a cravat is not today a crime; then it seriously affected a man' social standing. Colored cravats were only admitted as parts of an undress costume; to be en regie at a ball or soiree one must wear whito. The name of st yles were as common in those days as they are now. We read of "tlio ori-ental," in the form of a turban, stiff with standi and whalebone; tho "cravato a l'Amcricaine," which presented tho ap- - pearanceof "a column destined to rt a Corinthian capital, and held tho neck as if in a vise," the prevailin color builitf sea n'eeu or striped blue, red and vis N! KWKAIt OF T'lPAV. publicly unless be was Melt, "in which case ho Illicit cover his head and tha upper part of his shouilers, and even wear breeches without disgrace." It was allowable, indeed, to protect thu throat with the to.;a in bad weather for the preservation or restoration of tho natural temperature, but tho whito round neck was compared to "the beauty of an ivory tower." and thus wo see it unadorned iu all the cculpture and paintings that represent these men of the olden time. iradually, however, the bare neck unfashionable. It was at fir-- t d by a starched band of line linen on the upper cil'e of the shirt, falling back naturally upon the bust, where it was fastened by a small cord. This whs the origin ef all the different species of collar hinco used, as well as tho in-nocent parent of the thick, hot folds such a Tiirvevdrop wore, "pufliiitf his very eyes out of their natural shape, and his chin and even his ears so sunk into it that it seemed as if he must inevita-bly double up if it were cast loose." Iiull's, stiffened or plaited, sinulo or in many rows, followed and lasted as long as short hair was in fashion. Thev were "TIIK JHIPF.S" KAIil.Y IX THIS CKNTTRT. white; the 'I'yron" cravat, ending in a bow or rosette, but free and easy around tho neck; tho "cravato matlio-matiipie- ," grave and severe in style, the slightest w rinkle being strictly prohib-ited; tho "cravato do gastronome," a loiw, elastic bundle of muslin that yielded to tho vacillation of tho jaws, and possessed tho advantage of beinjj easily loosened in cases of indigestion or apoplexy. There were eighteen ways of tying a cravat, with knots and without knots, sometimes with triple kuots, and not infrequently ending in a ruffle or a waterfall. A pfoporly equipped traveler in tho early part of the century carried a box containing a dozen pure white, it dozen striped white and a dozen colored cravats, two whalebone stiff oner and a Email iron to press the folds into shape. (iradually these old fashions have riven place to tho modern scarf and characteristic of tho reign of Elizabeth, but were succeeded by the neckcloth during the reign of 'harles II, which in IliliO. The ends were of rich lace and fell in a broad fold over the chest; others were twisted and the ends drawn through a ring. The latter was called "a Steinkirk." The Steinkirk was so named from the battle of that name in lii'J,', on which ' occasion tho, young French nobles had uo time to arrange t heir lace "era vettes," necktie, which may bo generalized under three heads tho puff, tho flat and the simple knot of evening dress. They take any jmpularuame that gives them indi-viduality. Tho tasto in wearing them varies according to the wearer. As a rule, wealthy men care tho least about dress. Some are satisfied to be simply neat, and some do not euro to bo even that. President Arthur was always dressy, but never ostentatious; (Irant always bought plain black neckties; Cleveland is (simplicity itself, and con-tents himself with a hand tied necker-chief. Edmunds of Vermont, Halo of Maine, Ilawley of Connecticut, and Hampton and Butler of South Caroliua, are quiet dressors. Tho same may be said of many famous men in tho commercial walks of life Gould, (ieorgo Vanderbilt, Depow, the Rockefellers, and others who move in tha group of millionaires. Actors, club men and those who mingle much in society run to bright colors, though rarely in-harmonious with tho rest of their cos-tume. It goes without saying that tha demand for changing styles and pattern STYU'.S KKOM l'i',10 TO nOr). owing to the surprise of their outpos's by the allies. In France, when Louis XIII allowt d his hair to grow, tho cum-- bersomo ruff was followed by standing collars embroidered and pinked, and WOTtN EY CHARLES I WIH'.N EXECUTED. gives employment to thousands of girla in the workshops, and that whatever may be the popular fad some one is sure to be the gainer. Fi:i.ix Gregory he Fontaine. plaited collarettes, laced or pointed, en-compassed the neck chin deep. Subse-Hiieiit- ly Louis XIV adopted enormous periwigs which hardly left tho throat visible, and then ribbons tied iu brill-iant bows took the place of the splendid envelopes of his predecessor. After this came the epoch of constriction and com-pression introduced by the cravat. This instrument of fashionable torture is referred to by Voinvvell, writing from Ely, in Kiel: "Ihing me two pair of boot hose from the Fleming who lives in Lon-don lane; also a new cravat." It is also mentioned by Drydeu vu 107-- as an ex-treme fashion. The fashion was intro-duced in Franco by a foreign regi-ment composed of Croats, in whose sin-gular costume was one thing greatly admired and imitated, namely, a band-age about the neck consisting of com-mon stuff for the soldiers and of muslin or silk for tho officers. The ends were arranged in a bower garnished with a tuft or tassel and hung not ungracefully over the breast. At lirst it was failed a "croate," ami afterward, by corruption, a "cravatte. 1 by tho military and tlio rich it was worn with the borders em-broidered or edged with broad lace. That of the soldiers consisted of a scrap of cloth or cotton bound around the neck by two small cords. Afterward the place of thes'e cords was supplied by a buckle, and cravats took the name of stocks. Until a comparatively recent date leather stocks were worn iu the United States and English armies. They still survive among some of tho stately old gentlemen who cling to the relics of the early parr of the century. Lace neckcloths and small cambric Geneva bands similartothosowe.ru bv clergymen were common in the reign of Wiiliam III, and in (jueeu Anne's time, but temporarily pa.-oe-d out of fashion iu ITiJo. These were followed by a large silk ribbon worn around the neck and tied iu a large bow in front. Soon after tho revolution tho cravat recovered its popularity and was worn in the most ex-travagant manner aud shapes. Some persons enveloped the neck with whole vieces of mus'in. otiiers with padded cushion, on which were wruppeif mimor-)U- R folds, so that at times the neck ap-peared to be larger than the head. The shirt collar arose above thecals and the chin and mouth were buried deep in the cravat, affording many a subject for caricature. It was impossible to incline the head in any direction, ami to look anywhere except straightforward neces-sitated the turning of the wunle body, i After the year ITstt, however, iiwre moil- - eralion in taste prevailed, and :he fainil- - iar pictures of Washington, Jefferson, ! Madison, Adams and their presidential ; successors give one a better idea than any verbal desenpiiou call dj of ths j changes that succeeded, I CoL liis' ssues Invitations to the Pub lie to Attend the Grand Opening of HIS JEW RESORT. Lynch & Glasmann. c Real Estate Brokers. t We Ofer the Following Bargains for a Few Days Only They Must be Sold at Once. The Following Are Genuine Bargains : ! i S.lx 1 50 ft TOf , with new Frame Cotta jre, fl room, larpo ) pantry and closet, city water, fruit trees: on. Alameda j Avenue, between Ivrlgliam and First South, near l-- lli Kast . $ 1,400 50x1 f() ft. 4 blocks north from JleCornlck's ltesidence, nicely located, fruit trees, etc 1,000 m. - - . . . . . I . . V . I . 1 . The Peor Among Peors and Seo-e- nd to None in this City In-vitations Have Peen Issued by Ur. Edward Kelley for the Grand Opening of His New Sample Room, at 228 State St. The object of this demon-stration on the art of Mr. Kelley is to familiarize his new location and introduce to his numerous patrons and the public in general, the many new brands of fine imported goods that have recently been received at his new place of business. This establishment has just been refitted with elegant and costly fixturcsand handsomely decorated in ac-cord with the balance of the tasty surroundings. Air. Chas. Reilley, the pop- - &UI Hon J.or, on i apitai will, nicety loeiucu, view 750 S.xl40 ft Lot, on Capitol Hill, pood location, fair view.. 400 :$ Lets :5xl40it each, on Grant street, between Cth & tit h North; each ICO --1 Ox 115 2, on Main street, 1- -2 block from Temple; , thi is a snap 12,000 lO Lot. 2.xl2." ft, 3 blocks north of Poplar Grove; (he bum h for 1,2X0 330x10." fl, dotilile corner, 4 blocks southeast of Warm priiitfg, line peach orchard on ground 8,000 ! We Offer the Aboye for a Few Days Only. , Easy Terrqs ! Lynch & Glasmann. i ular and well-know- n dispenser of the bright and sparkling liquids, has been appointed manager of the new sample room, and will be pleased at any and at all times to wel-come his host of friends and acquaintances. Notwithstanding this new acquisition, Mr. Kelley still retains the proprietorship of the Elks Sample Room, op-posite the Theater, the ony place in the city having a thoroughly equipped gymna-sium in connection therewith; and one that is ly first-cla- ss in all respects. COHN BROS. THE LATEST IN j SPRING GOODS:--- Choicest, Most Comprehensive and Varied Assortment in Every Department. JiO Dress r.itterns, containing 7 nd 8 yards of choice French hieh priced Dress Goods iu check, stripes and side bauds, at the low price of $4 a suit. Look at Our North Window ! SES On. i)s In ew e(T t at ir. V huve Just jilarnt on sale an elegant Una of Novelty Irrt,i tioods, in plaids, stripes and balls, all nw deatgna and colorings, at Ac j Weamnhowlnifavprv twee and handsome Orv'f Tlroee flnnrlc! I aanrtim-n- t of Dress (ilniihams. sultalile tor VUlLUIl XJ1 Cbb VjUvJUO ! I.ailli-s- ' end ( hlidrens' wr, at 10. li and l.'c We have opened the handsomest line of Zepl.yr Ciotha at uuc ever sUnwn In tue 0 ty. Over 1UU styles to ielect fruin. INDIA SILKS! A llandsonie Lino of Choice India Silks at SO Cents Per Yard. ' KORAH MOIRE! ks Things in Our White Goods Department ! j Fast mark nronadln-n- . Lae Eftccts. Colo' el Flnre Irish Linens, Plain and Fancy Scrims, FiKiire l Cbavae C'lotUa and Hundreds ut other Novelties. just opened. We offer one lrt of ""J"' Kllibe"ro"e luVay mixtures, X ! si.es ft to 8V, at tuc per pair. t Ctitt lreii k Fast Ilia 'k Derby Rlblv d Homo at l'c, worth 2bc. We are offering the best 36c Ladies Fast HUck Hose In this or any oilier City. We have placed on sale a handsome line of Uaby Flouncings at 45, GO, 60,75o and up to $2 fit) We have a beautiful line of lilaek Laco Draperies Jl ' and Caanlilly Flounciugs at $1.00, $1.','5, $1.40, $1.75 and up to $1:4.00 per yard. cohKTbros. ; The world-renowne- d and popular pugilist, Mr. Herbert Slade, has assumed the man-agement and directorship of the Elks Gymnasium and may be found at his post of duty at almost any time. The well-stocke- d sideboard will also be urder this gentleman's personal supervision, aided by several thorough and compe-tent dispensers. The well stocked sideboard will be presided over by Mr. Herbert Slade, the Moari. - f who for some time was one of the principals of the celebra-ted John L. Sullivan Sparring Combination. Mr. Slade is probably the best known pug- - C0alu)i vnaUti 7pu1vJi ; llist and enjoys a more exten-- i sive acquaintance among the fraternity than any other man in the West. Col. Edw. Kelley is too well and favorably known to need an introduction through the medium of these columns and as a pleasant, genial, gentleman, he is considered by his host of friends and admir-ers ns having but few equals. During your spare momenta CALL AND SEE HIM Opposite Theater. , And 22S State Street E. SELLS, J; TUCKER. H. W. SELLS. Sells & Corqpginy, Wholesale and Retail Dealers in Lmki Tint South atrMtt opposite 14th Ward Assembly Room P. 9. x 1078. 01dnwr Iar4 t AmutraBf 8Tl3 i; Still Vigorous at n f.reat Ago. A century ago, when 2 years of age, David J. Williams, of Saratoga, N. Y., "spoke a piece" for the first time befor admiring friends and relatives. Ho was then an infant prodigy. He duplicated the triumph of his long vanished child-hood the other day by reciting at a school dedication those familiar lines, "You'd scarce expect one of my age to ss-a- iu public on the stage." The quotation em-bodies a truth. One would indeed "scare expect" a man of 103 to figure as a speak-er and master of ceremonies at a popular gathering. A Columbian memorial, designed lv J. Allen Whyte, of Chicago, for the or- - position, would have a star shaped build- - ing surmounted by a dome 400 feet high nnd this in turn surmounted by a tower whose top would be l.i'Ji feet from ths bai.e. New llaiupshire's Now Snntr. Dr. J. II. Gallinger, who will succeed Henry W. lilair as United States sona- - tor from New Hampshire, has won his way to the front because of energy and perseverance. He is a man of decided views, who makes strong friends and bitter opponents. Tho latter arrayed i themselves against bill) iu the recent 'Ml contest at Con-cord, but were) routed after a hot fight. Iu hi speech of accept-- ' anee the nominee declared himself in favor of pro-- tection and op-- posed to the free coinage of silver, Dr. Gallinger is a native of Canada and a printer by trade, PR. GAU.I.NOER. After working at the case for some time ho studied medi- - cine. He began the practice of his pro-fession at Cincinnati in 18.W, but in 1J0 he removed to .New Hampshire, where he has resided ever since. His political career has been uu'formly a successful one, and include several terms in the stale legislative aud iu MU7ets. |