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Show THE FASHIONS 0FTH2DAT OLIVE HARPER COMPARES THEM ' WITH THE WAYS OF THE PAST. $ha Girl of ThM Hipp; Times Dreu More gentlbljr Thau Their Foremuthers " Did, Their Cne.U Are Broader and They Are Much Healthier. Special Correspondence. New York, April 10. How true it is that dress makes the woman one way judge by a look at the two pretty figures below labeled with our own trade mark of "morning and afternoon," In the morning morn-ing the pretty angel of the household comes down to her breakfast in a gown of soft, cream colored flannel, embroidered embroi-dered in Russian stitch and made iu Bus-aian Bus-aian style. With her abundant locks hanging in two long braids she looks the tweet, cajoling daughter who can hang around her father and give him his coffee cof-fee and coax the last penny out of his pocket, so that when afternoon comes on I proper for young girls to be delicate, ethereal, with drooping heads, long curls and slim waists, and as long as that was the fashion it was perfectly proper. Now, we have fresh, bright girls with sparkling eyes, elastio step, arms with real muscles and chests which give plenty sace for deep breathing, and the result is certainly achieved by lenient fashion. Let us be thankful and hold on to what we have, and strive for further advance. It is because women are learning to think, and are learning more about themselves, a study that was deemed improper only a few years ago, that we can hope to have fashion join common sense, and give us clothing adapted to the preservation of health as well as the adornment and enhancement of beauty. The new craze for black China crepe gowns is spreading with wonderful rapidity. ra-pidity. There is also another kind of soft silky crape, which I really do not know the name of, but it is very crinkly and exceedingly pretty. Ttiis is also largely used, and any lady who has an old black embroidered China crepe shawl feels as happy as a miner who has struck a lead. These shawls are usually em- now shown In jet black with tiny pmic polka dots or small flowers in the most natural colors stamped upon it. It is an exquisite material, and has the clinging effect so sought after now. A very pretty dress for a young lady is made of beige colored cashmere and seal brown cashmere. The lighter color is used for the panel opening and draping drap-ing of the waist, and the darker for all the rest. The cuffs and waist band were worked in silk of two shades of brown, the whole gown being very dainty and girlish. When a lady has a little nice material, cither in velvet, velutina, silk or woolen goods, she can utilize it by making a plain underskirt, and then she can wear several different draperies with it, made of material of which sho did not have enough to make a whole skirt. If the colors harmonize, it is enough. Any kind of basque or bodice is suitable, I know one lady who has made the prettiest and dressiestof Figaro jackets out of the best parts of a pair if fine broadcloth pantaloons. She braided it with scarlet and gold, and when she slips this on over a plain gown, the effect is almost magical. It does not take very long to braid such a jacket, and I don't believe her braid cost a dcilar. MORNIKO AND AFTERNOON.' ehe can put on her new Tartan plaid gown, with her stylish, if rather startling, start-ling, jacket, with its bold design of braiding braid-ing and velvet sleeves, and hat with a whole poultry yard on it, and go out hopping, or to take one of those long, brisk walks that aro so fashionable now. In the morning the dress compels the naive innocence of the ingenue, in the afternoon the entire outfit creates a new outward girl, and tho new one as she walks aloag with her head well up and an almost defiant air seems to somehow exhale the statement that "the plague of the fly resteth not on the daughter of my father." Athletic exercises may be in some measure blamed, or thanked, for the increased in-creased independence in the step and movements of the young women of the day, and the rest is due to the fuller self knowledge afforded by the education given the girls. Dresses are not made tight enough to niako suffocating martyrs mar-tyrs of them, and shoes are no longer tho instruments of torture they used to be. I have a fashion book for 1S48, and in it I read that slippers with thin, flexible flexi-ble soles were all the otyle, for street as well as home wear. Now the soles of the most fashionable walking boots are at least a quarter of an inch thick, and some are thicker. The gain in tho health rate is great in ivmseoucnee. At that oeriod it, was FOR VHE HOME DRESSMAKER, broidered richly in colors or in black. If In colors, it is perhaps better to have it dyed black before making up, as the colors col-ors are crude and scarcely suitable foi present styles. The shawl can then be used as the other crapewould be in combination com-bination with some lighter color, and t magnificent dress would be tho result. I saw a gown made of pliin black China crepe, made up over 6ky blue satin, ind with a trimming of fine cut steel beads. It was worn at a recent Patti lisht at the nnAra. and was much admired; ad-mired; and as it is one of those styles which clever little home dressmakers :an evolve from grandma's old shawl md a trifle of satin, 1 givo the dress below. be-low. How pretty it is I leave the ladies ' judge H could be made high in the Kck by a yoke, and the sleeves could be made long, leaving the puffed tops for caps. Instead of tho steel beading the loft fingers of the industrious little dressmaker dress-maker can embroider or applique anything any-thing she likes. Metall-c colors are more I suitable than any others, as they seem fitter to be used on black, and this crepe is blacker than any other fabric but velvet vel-vet - I notice among tho new silks the lovely love-ly Japanese crepe, which came out last season in onlv light ami tklicate tints, is |