Show FROM ST PETE PETERSBURG G TO S STOCKHOLM T OCK i HOLM j y W 7 imam Bryan 11 J Je T j ji n Borgen Bergen Norway June 29 The dIs dig dIscussion or of th duma occupied so much space pace that th t I was compelled to omit J from that article all mention of Russia Russin r 7 in Jh ir general and to St Petersburg In n particular I shall therefore begin bagin this article with a brief reference to the j Muscovite lIus empire J A Two and a half years ago when 1 I saw Russia for the first time timo I en entered entered entered by the way of or Warsaw and went to St Petersburg from Moscow While considerable territory was covered the winters snows made the whole country look barren and uninviting This time our course lay through the Baltic pro provinces provinces provinces vinces and as farming was at its 1 height the country presented a much fairer picture The cities clUes and villages through t rough which we passed were busy with life lIte and each had its church for Cor forthe the tho Russians are arc a churchgoing peo pee people people St Petersburg is a fascinating city eity The Church hurch of ot St Isaacs with its It great granite monoliths on the outside its Us pillars within covered with malachite and lazuli and its immense bronze doors is among tho worlds most Imposing places of ot worship the eques equestrian trian statue of Peter the Great Greot is fa famous famous moue and tho Iho art gallery is of ot rare merit bronzes are most ex ox excellent excellent and her stores exhibit a large assortment of furs fursIn fursIn fursIn In St Petersburg I found myself as RS ason ason on my former visit admiring the horses they being upon the whole the best that I have seen since leaving America Possibly the fact that ao o many stallions are arc driven singly and in pairs may account in part for the handsome and stylish animals seen upon the streets but certain It Is that the Russian Ru horse is a splendid representative of or his breed There Is a large park called the Point near the city and in the evening t this park and the approaches to it are thronged with car cor carriages carriages and As th the sun un does docs do doi i not set there at ot this season of oC the year until between 9 and 10 and is followed by a long Ions lon twilight the drives are gay with life o until midnight Wo Vu Ve did not reach our ur hotel until 11 al although although though wo we were among the t e first to tu leave leDe the park Spooking Speaking of or horses reminds me that the tho Russian coachman has lias an nn individuality all own His 1115 headgear Is peculiar p being a squatty beaver with witha a crown but one soon the hat in contemplation of or the form The Thu skirt of the coachmans coat oot Is I very full and pleated and the themore themore themore more stylish equipage the broader Is the tho driver Beginning at the derrs his lila padding gradually increase until about the hips he is as broad as the box upon which he sits This pad padding PaddinG padding ding is carried to sun sum an that the coachman sometimes has hns to be lift HU lifted HUed lifted ed upon the box and it is s to say that he is practically helpless as aswell aswell 8 well as useless in case ca e of an accident It may be that this style oC or oi de designed designed signed for tor a wind break braak for those who are seated behind the wearer this was one of the explanations given or it may be that like lIko some other fashions in wearing apparel it has no foundation In reason I found to my mr disappointment that Tolstoi fa h I not contributing materially i ito to the political revolutIon that is tak taking taking ing place in Russia Being revered throughout out the land not only because of his philosophy but also because of his fearless arraignment of cf the des despotism despotism despotism that hs afflicted Russia he might be a powerful pow factor actor in giving direction to the popular movement me but believing that t t individual ual regener regenerate ate au at Tarnishes tho the only complete emancipation from all forms form of or evil he takes but bu little Interest int rest in what he regards as the smaller and nd less lesa important remedies r proposed by the luma It remains to be seen whether bether It is h i wiser to secure that which which is isnow isnow isnow now within reach and tb t n press press for forward forward forward ward fer other advantages or to re ro reject reject piecemeal reforms in the hope ol of ultimately gaining larger ones mies Probably Probably Probably ably the tho pioneer in thought and the practical will never nover be able to agree fully upon up n this point The boat from St Petersburg to Stockholm Iff is one of unsurpassed od beau beauty beauty beauty ty It requires about thirty hours to tomake tomake tomake make the trip and of that time but two hours are spent in jn the open sea Bea Beathe the remainder of ot tho the route beins boin be between between tween islands that fill tUl the Baltic and the tho gulf of Finland as the stars stud the sky Just Ju t out of St Petersburg 13 is most important naval station where we saw a number of ot warships and wee were informed that the crew of pile ie of them had recently refused to comply y with a sailing order answering th h was waiting to see what the duma would do Until about a a hundred years ago Finland was a part of the Baltic B em empire empire pire of which Sweden was the head and of the inhabitants of Finland something som thing like 20 per p r cent are arc of ot Swedish descent As might b bp expected the Swedish elc ele ment was nut not the official element enjoying to a large larb extent the titles of nobility but it Is la still the wealthier and more influential portion The Finns proper are not Laplanders as their northern position would suggest neither n are they in race raco closely akin to the Slavic or Scandinavian Scandinavian vian population AS a mentioned In the u KIng Oscar of Sweden I articles of Hungary they came from western Asia Ash and arc ac Quite distinct in race rao characteristics from their then present neighbors They acquired from rom their Swedish Sw w dish conquerors conquer rs a fondness for the public school and the percentage of ot 11 ii literacy cy Is h much less legs In Finland than In other parts of Russia under whose do dominion minion they ther unwillingly came carne in 1808 Our boat bOLt stopped topped at for fora forn a n few foy hours and we had an opportunity ty to visit the capital of ot Finland It Is Isa Isa Isa a substantial sub and a and prosperous looking cIty with large school houses attract attractive attractIve ive lye public buildings and commodious churches We v passed several small parks where children were playing and nd where numerous comfortable seats beckoned the weary weary to rest beneath the shade shader I r confess to a partiality for the small city park it Js s much better to have these breathing spaces so 50 scat scattered about through densely populated sections that the children as well as the adults can find In them a 0 daily refuge than th n to have the tho entire entice park fund lavished upon suburban parks which can only be visited ted occasional occasionally ly It Is a 3 pity that space sp is 13 not more reserved for these rhe c irks f In n the tb laying out of or towns for tor the dIe ground HW not Qt z y ir ra 3 n in in proportion n as 15 these tn s are arc the more needed but the opening of them ir In heart of a 11 city bring brings a aj j large unearned Increment to those e who sho own tend hind adjacent nt to them We could not help noticing the con contrast contrast between the market of ot Helsing fors tors and those which we WB visited In Asia At the tho former neatly dressed dress cd peasants men and women exposed for sale from the end of ot their cars a bountiful supply of or vegetables v meats butter eggs and cheese The eggs were stamped with the name nam of the owner and the date of laying the butter was packed in wood wooden en buckets of various sizes and the cheese was of many varieties Some of the carts carta were filled with stacks of black blac bread baked In large flat cakes The radishes presented a temptation I that I was pot not able to withstand the fondness for them restrained during the months of or travel through the Ori On Orient OrIen cut ent en t overcame me and at the risk of br being thought extravagant I purchased five live dozen at a gross outlay of about 5 cents and lived hived high until they were all gone The Finns are arc rejoicing over the au an autonomy autonomy recently secured and they have signalized their partial Independence by creating a single parliamentary body hody whose representatives are elected by the entire population male malo and fe female female female male above the age of 24 UNo No one can understand the persistency with which the Finns have struggled for constitutional constitutional constitutional government without recalling that as a It part of ot Sweden their country long enjoyed the right to representation in the nations council The TWo people have always resented Russian meth methods methods methods and only a n a few years ago the governor general sent from St Peters Petersburg Petersburg Petersburg burg was assassinated by a young Finn who having thus given expression to his nations hatred of ot despotism im immediately Immediately Immediately mediately took his own life The death of the governor was followed folioed by the suspension of such few tew privileges as the people had been enjoying but when last year the whole of Russia seemed about to rise In rebellion the czar an announced announced flounced his willingness to grant all that was asked and now one can trav tray travel travel el ci through Finland without being har harassed ha harassed assed by soldiers or bothered about passports If Constantinople can claim to be the natural capital of the eastern hemis hemisphere hemisphere phere Stockholm can with equal justice claim to be its natural summer resort It is situated at a point where a chain of lakes pours Its flood into the Baltic so that the citizens of cap ital have their choice between the tho fresh freshwater freshwater freshwater water and the salt As the lakes and the sea are filled with innumerable lil islands Islands ands each family can have one for it itself itself itself self Summer homos homes are probably more numerous near Stockholm in tion to the population than anywhere else because during the winter months the people live in flats fiats One is 15 immedi immediately immediately Immediately struck with the compactness of the city and with the absence of o sin single single single gle dwellings surrounded by yards Owing to the severe cold and the long dark days of winter the people huddle together In great blocks and thus econ economize economize fuel and arid they are at the same samo time close to their As soon as fie spring opens there Is a general move movement movement ment mont toward the islands and as we ap approached approached preached Stockholm from the Baltic and left it through the lakes we saw a great many man summer cottages and watched the boats beats carrying their car cargoes cargoes cargoes goes of passengers to and fro lakes are so 0 numerous and so large Jarge that about 8 per cent of f her entire area is given up to these internal waterways and they probably account for the fact that her people had a large J rge domestic commerce before belore the era of ot j j A View of Stockholm railroads I These lakes are so situated that by connecting them by b by lc Canals ater transit has bas been ibe n secured be between tween twe s Stockholm on the east cpas cp and on the west The boa boat trip through th gh these lakes and acid hd canals can l I sone one of the most inot pleasant to be fO foid in Europe Eu The Swedes who have come c me to the United States are such excellent ex farm farmers ors ers that I was surprised to find but 12 per 1 or cent of the area of Sweden devoted to and pi piper 1 per cent described as woodland Only l y 55 65 per cent of the population Is 18 now flOW engaged In farming the proportion having 11 a ving fallen alIen from 72 per cent since 1870 while the proportion engaged in other Industries has risen from 15 to 27 per cent Lumbering fishing and shipping each gives employment to a large number of men and iron mining long a loading leading industry is still Important although owing to the development of mines elsewhere Sweden now no furnishes but 1 per cent of the entire output or of ore as against 10 per cent in the eighteenth century The fact that she has had such an abundant supply of the raw j material early gave her a conspicuous place In iron manufactures and to fa familiarity familiarity a with this metal may be due the fact that Sweden was quick to take advantage of the railroad the telegraph and the telephone In electrical appliances appliances ances she now claims second place among the nations A large use has also been made of ot the water power with aith which the country abounds notably at where an industrial expo exposition exposition Is now in progress We spent a day at this exposition for forthe forthe forthe the purpose of gathering information In regard to industrial Sweden While the agricultural display was not ready the exhibit of the products of the fac factory factory factory tory was exceedingly Interesting The articles shown included metal work of all an kinds and varieties from heavy machinery to parlor ornaments In one section canned fruits were dis ills displayed displayed played in another great rolls of linol linoleum eum ourn and oilcloth and in still another textile fabrics The Tho cloth was especially especially especially ally worthy of notice being of superior quality and of every shade of color There was also a complete assortment of dairy implements and farm arm tools So skillful is the Swedish artisan that the International IJ Harvester company has recently recent established a n branch fac factory factory factory tory at and with the tho aid of ot American foremen Is Ig preparing to man manufacture manufacture manufacture reapers and mowers there not only for Sweden but for northern Eu Europe Europe Europe rope In addition to the ex ox exhibits exhibits hibits there were specimens of the handwork of ot peasants and students These included ded many varieties of needle needlework needlework needlework work wood carving and decoration on leather and bark bUrk Peasant P girls in na native native native tive costume presided over these dis ills displays displays plays and gave the visitor a glimpse of the picturesque garb now fast Last dis disappearing disappearing disappearing appearing before the prosaic dress of the cities At Skansen In the suburbs of Stockholm and at a few fes of or the en enterprising enterprising enterprising this quaint costume may still be seen but it is not gun gen generally orally worn now oven in the tho country There Is a gallery gal ery at ox ex exposition position where one may see seo a collection of Swedish and Danish art the tho pictures not only portraying the familiar fea lea features features tures and flaxen hair of the tho north but recalling the long Jong nights and the win winter winter winten ter ten scenes of that latitude Sweden was a Ii pioneer in the matter of of universal l education and has hns at Upp Uppsala Uppsala sala salo a state university founded In 1477 fifteen years before b fore Columbus sailed for America She has also had a col college college college lege of of medicine m for more than years and her sons have taken taleen high rankin all the departments of science Her grammar schools run back to the time when Gustavus and her hor common school system Is almost as old She has given to the world among other things the system of teach teaching teachIng teaching ing which combines manual training with mental instruction Sweden has shown by her prominence in literature |