Show Y J c j j By er 9 Greet w r rt Y t Y t m yo t v Y Yb b hb A ka 1 sr Vt iF Lady t the e Lucile of I A 7 Wr t London Tells Tell s W c q w rS t tr a Women w n the ther e I r J JY fk r F Folly oIly of the r Y y x Chase tor r r l k kj j i i the G J i J b oA A Charming mini 1 Model k f Made oft of t American K Amer F Batiste YS w and sand Lace i ADY DUFF GORDON the th famous fa ous 1 Lucile Lucie nE If LADY London and foremost designer of fashions ns i in m t world talks today of Ame goods in the falsity fa 1 sit of the vim Ported imported apparel and describes ribes bes some some of o f t dresses dr es she has made of fabrics fab cs manufactured in inthe the United States Lady has found the silks the lawns chiffons chiffons fons and embroideries she has bought here to be superior supe or to any of France or England She mourns the folly foUy of Amer American American Amerlean ican lean women omen w in not patronizing their own markets and has something to say ay about the slavish bowing to foreign fash fashions fashIons fashIons ions i Mos f the titled people and gentlefolk who attend the te ti fam famous us Ascot Laces in England wear gowns designed by b y Lady Gordon For Far the first time in history this year scores of them will appear in fabrics fab cs that were made iri iriA n ii America A ne While she has been here Lucile has finished finish d these gowns and they are now nosy on their way abroad B R L r I 14 ADY nY Luclle Lucile LJJ Y likE to talk to you Jou a little fabrics I about your foolish for far any very 1 think it Is 15 goods made In American woman to want in Germany or ory Inland land lan or in France when all at these things Why y should she better here And Andt are made so much mach admit admit was as must I t ls conclusion co to me when I IU formed much mach a surprise It who read be to you U St as it may American silks the Take for instance in comparison with the French ones om s softer and finer and The They are so much have bae much more ben beat beautiful tl ul coloring than th D Dany Paris or London in seen any ery I 1 have hare ever truth and not said to top 1 Is 15 s s s the th real but because I 1 think so soI sod soa p pease anyone a d I know It is truth Wh When n I first thought or of comes to America and was discussing things with my many American Am rican women friends In London L at Christmas time one of or the greatest difficulties they put forward against my succeeding here and there were many man I assure you was that I would find it almost impossible to get in inthe inthe the States the materials the silks chit chIl chiffons Ions fons laces embroideries and especially the colorings that I put into the models I designed and had bad made in England So o I braved the exorbitant charges of ot your our Customs House and brought over enough materials embroideries etc to tomake tomake o make faithful f copies of or each o of 01 my models in case a lady customer cu tomer came in and demanded an exact copy B flA A Lucile Eve Evening Evening F nin ning Gown Made fig a Entirely of Am American American F Chiffon Satin andEm and Em Embroidered Embroidered broidered Net t F bi b sad i fc dyn dyni i r Y y 9 d dr r f k f s ss s x Bt w wIc Ic A AI I x 3 ry r i t 5 iRA iRAi sex d x xiRA i y t 4 s k 11 w y ad t r rG l G r t te e SY w I now how pleasantly sur surprised surprised surprised You can Imagine I was was to find that the difficulty the these e patriotic American ladles who evidently never neer buy anything of their know own s manufacture nor anything about them put forward to me ma exist in la was no difficulty at all fact as my saleswomen get all the need aeed needful needful ful materials mat rials and better for copying my models right here in goods So 50 I dont see why you American women women persist In sending abroad abro d for formate material mate al It is just one of f your foolish j prejudices In the Fall I 1 shall be able to design and make right Jn Ott New York my Winter models and all be made of 01 de goods I 1 have mentioned the silks but In the th lawns and ald organdies you yo have absolute artists In la the manufacturers To my im immense immense mense surprise I am told tord by reliable people that to find a really good sale tor for your own clever manufactures In this line many stores tores and shops where these goods are sold have to say that they are imported French lawns etc etc C y L a gyn Fla Sri C Ci r vt q ii I z w ti p y SK A J x x a 4 S c Amy SN i wi tr oa F C r c f 2 w i A a aS at S t a r and rz The Latest r Photo of oft t a s t Lady L r 3 Duff Gordon Posed by bythe the Campbell CampbellS CampbellI S Studs fi t y Yz Ky d F fix Fifths Fifth Avenue s f New York I w L Yx J t a ax 1 A x 1 I ac acS j C y Cy S Y a ab b I W 3 i t a Y Ya z at j te SY W A x A 4 4 t t r 5 A AA A Lucile Gown of American Silk r Made Picture Fashion r d Otherwise the great American patriotic public pubic Pu lc would think nothing of them A Aman Aman Aman man Is never a prophet In his own coun country country country try and this seems to be the case in a Republic as to Its products for fashion I think it shameful of you American people not to be proud of these splendid fabrics arid acid you ought to encourage and buy and be thankful to the people who make them for you Now we are not like that in England Egland E gIand We are quite cazy crazy about any of our own manu manufactures manufactures manufactures and Imd never have to pretend that our cur ur muslins and laces lace and woollen goods ire lre made In Paris to get geta gella a sale If Madame Roland exclaimed of or the crimes that are committed in the name of liberty I exclaim at the the th crimes that art ar committed In the name of 1 made abroad It is Js so foolish and spendthrift and downright criminal of you to neg neglect neg neglect lect the Infinitely better things you have at your own doors to go CO running after false gods Of all the fabrics of American manu manufacture manufacture facture f the silks seem to tome me to be tho best I 1 think the woollen wo llen materials t are ar certainly better b tt r in our country b but t your y r silks are quite extraordinary Tb so EO heavy and soft sort and fir such delightful colorings Of the silks that are called ailed meteor meteor liberty and andall alt all the soft clinging family f the draping quality they the possess is a pure joy to me meI meI meI I am using these silks now n w In great quantities and am taking g a lot back to England with me It was an immense surprise to tome me to learn that these ex exquisitely 8 exquisitely lovely fabrics with their beau beautiful beautifUl beautiful designs were manufactured m In New Hampshire and Rhode Island and Massachusetts But it was a greater surprise to me that you OU did not realize what you have at your very doors I have ordered from American houses other ma materials which I shall take to England with me to be made Into my Winter models The English I know will wiIl re recert receive cert e them with treat great eat curiosity be c a tl r If r r i r R x r j i e n F 9 CA Sim SimpIe pIe p le Little t ws si tx Dress De Designed a signed by byL b S L Lucile 1 e h w Y Made Matie of c American r 4 Taffetas v I r t y x J I from fromM p r 1 r t a aY f s M arne Y 4 l cause they too have always been led to believe that all materials m for dresses In America were imported But they are so fair that they will acknowledge at once how beautiful they are areNow areNow Now KOw heres a surprise For the time In history the gowns at the Ascot races the best of or gowns will be made of or American goods I have made the tho models while white here the dresses are nearly finished and an In my next neat article and perhaps the next after that I shall describe these thes dresses what the Ascot races mean mean as a fixing of fashions and andI I shall show you sketches and photo photographs photographs graphs of these gowns so that you will see them even before they appear in England Of 01 course prices are very ery much higher here bere than they are abroad So SQ 5 after all I wont save sae much by not g my models from England Labor is ise exactly e double the cost here that it Is In London A fitter who gets 30 a week In London gets 60 here and so on But 60 here does not TO o as far as 30 In London Living Is so terribly expensive food house rent and so on a However to leave economics and to get back to fashion In gratitude for the way I 1 have been received here I expect to create a fashion for goods abroad when I return And did you know by the way that the Ameri American can shoe has already a captured the for foreign foreIgn eign market Everyone abroad Is en enthusiastic th about them They even trans transfigure transfigure transfigure figure the feet of the Frenchwoman and that Is a teat feat Indeed not to perpetrate a 8 purely English pun Folk abroad have come to realize reaze the extraordinary smart cut of the th Ameri Amen American can shoe They give the large clumsy extremities of 01 the Frenchwoman quite a n dainty look Took It is a great reat fallacy to t imagine that they have pretty small feet They are thick all through andas and andas andas as for their ankles they dont exist I Iam am atti wondering what they look like In Inthe Inthe Inthe the present fashion of short skirts I wear American shoes and have for tor fo r years I r have them in all colors to match my dresses I 1 particularly recommend rec ree recommend om nd the colored boot tops especially y the with black blackIn blackIn blackIn In the same way American women are at fault In goods that are made in America for the sake of ot those whIch come with the imported 1 t 1 r rhe t H Y Y f fm m wM x C i h d w C ro Y F r E a 1 1 Back View of the Model D hallmark So 50 they destroy their oWlS taste by blindly taking whatever any anyone anyone anyone one offers them a as as the last word from Paris Pads p Up to a certain point American women have very clever ideas Ides of dress drees The American women who travel tra el abroad each year and get their clothes In Paris have nave their the eyes educated as to a sense of ot balance lalance The national tendency toward exaggeration is toned down dawn But I am an Sorry to say that I think the generality of people whom I see in the streets street and andIn anI andin In the large hotels show this tendency this efflorescence of taste ta te that Is al ai almost almost most exotic to a surprising degree It Itis Itis Itis is in their dress their gait and their manner Please dont misunderstand m me It la Is lanot not Dot the methods of business I dont like Uk Ilk and I said what I think of tS the goods My quarrel is 11 with the women who wont realize reallie what they have havo Java at their own doors In the way of beautiful fabrics and who will ran run to extremes in their dress and manners Here Hera on this page are some of th ta dresses I have made up since I have been in this country Every bit of clod and everything else about them was wu made In 11 America A is an exquisite gown made of American silk manufactured In Penn sylvania and having all the appearance of 01 the most artistic Parisian product pr duct as which in fact tact it sells in the shops The gown is ia made in old picture fashion and is a most charming crea tion for a youthful woman or a girl The silk is of the palest flesh pink with bouquets of delicately colored dim flowers scattered over it The skirt Is gathered In at the bot tom with making little puffs below which Is a frilL The overdress is a pannier fashion looped up at the back There is an adorable little coat like corsage with a rounded tab back and front and bIg biff silk sUk covered buttons The corsage Is of plain pink silk and there is a pale blue sash with ends at ai a one side There is a fichu of net and lace and the small short sleeves have hava a e finish of or tucked lace like a cuff cull B shows a beautiful gown made of ot American fabrics chiffon lamballe satin and embroidered net The basis of the gown Is of palest pink mauve a most peculiar shade of lamballe satin and over this is a pale coral pink chiffon chUon robe and again draperies of 01 very deep coral color almost an Oriental scarlet The net is of a mauve tone with embroideries in coral shades and cameo medallions Over the shoulders Is draped a wart sean of ol dotted net In to flesh pink with bands of or tiny gold fringe about the ends and edges C shows a little dress made of Amer AIDer lean Jean taffetas manufactured in Portland Maine It is of the richest softest quality and Is of a spot variety In gold and green It Is made in a very simple fashion fas Ion quaint and youthful It is cut deco ete but a may be worn with it to make it a day gown if Ie one wished The trimming o ot of the gown gawn consists of ot side pleating with edges stitched down fiat flat after the fashion of at a hundred years ago This quaint pleating extends down the front In two bands and around the th bottom it borders the square and ana anc finishes the short sleeves The waist is outlined by a a sash at of deep dc p green chiffon edged with deep gold fringe There is a dotted tulle lulls petticoat showing between the pleated bands down the froat front and there are ar Q butterfly bows of lace bound wita green chiffon caught here and there thera down the front The Tho and sleeves are finished by delicate laca lace frills in pale cream color D shows a model made of batiste and lace Inch of American manufacture The Tho batiste Is of or the palest blue and forms torms the tho overdress which Is about bout the edge by a deep hem and tuck The Th under dress is of palest lace and and is gauze decorated by a I bow of pale pink taffeta ribbon With long ends The upper part of the gown is also of 01 the lace and gauze and there is Js a soft folder gif die dle of ot the pale blue batiste |