Show THE SEASON DEVELOPS THE HE E PEG H TOP IT APPEARS WE ARE NOT TO LOOK LIKE PLANKED SHAD AFTER ALL FOR SKIRTS HAVE SHOWN A DESIRABLE TRICK OF WIDENING AT THE HIPS IN ORDER TO OFFSET THE TEE NARROWNESS NARROWNESS NAR NAR- AT THE ANKLES IT ANKLES IT IT GIVES MORE FREEDOM OF LINE AND AlID GRACE OF MOVEMENT NEW MOVEMENT NEW TUNICS SLASHED i UP TO THE HIPS RIPS The substitution of or one idea for another another an an- other as a form of or regenerating regenerating- re rejuvenating re- re an and rearranging in the human brain Is as as s old as al psychology It was as 1 practiced r probably ton long lone before tho Uio word was invented It is one of or the worlds world's fundamental creeds moral x t physIcal physical and mental and when some of or the t got sot hold of oC it as a n anew new doctrine they wore only exploit exploiting ing what began hogan before belore the Pyramids In tho the early part of or the war wor those who iho w re not clover cr in tho art de deplored cie- cie d tho the extraordinary skill of ot the Germans In being being- able to control tho the masses S b by deliberately h substituting a n. anew anew new ew Idea Men cover covered d up b by n. n phrase and hammered In by reiteration r The They are ato doing it to today and so tat fat It has ne never ner r failed them with their own people TIc They usa use uso the word defensive o instead of ot to conquer Those who had to deal with a L neW now kind of oC illness In this war which t comes from shell shock or fear Car of ot any kind have 6 applied the theory thory of ot mental disease dIseaSe disease dis dIs- ease with wonderful result It Is part and parcel today of or the doctors doctor's work warle True l I It Is I the basis of ot hallucination of ot inflated egotism m of oC madness oven even but Its advantages are greater than its defects America Is going oin through man many phases toda today probably tho most mot powerful pow pow- erful In her career which have come about through the substitution In her composite brain of or one national Idea I for tor another And the work worle filters down I through h crevices until It seeps through j i the strata of or underlying and seeming seeming- i ly insignificant nt products by-products of our nat naI na- na 1 t life It is this seepage do down n to dress which Is 18 the point of this preface One Idea has lias been substituted for lor another With all 1 the critics against Its success success suc suc- ces cess the psychologists watch with Interest In Interest In- In Interest terest the public playing pInyin Into the handsor hands of or those who started the Id Idea a. a French gowns owns have always alwa's been desired desired de desired de- de sired by all who had tho the mone money to pa pay for tor them loda Today millionaires ask for or American products This docs does not mean that the French sown gowns are not necess necessary ry to our industrial life or that we have even touched with all our endeavors en endeavors endeavors en- en deavors the secrets secreta of their art nor does It mean that our buyers no longer depend upon French Inspiration for al almost almost at- at most everything the they do We e as a nation under a debt of or gratitude e to 10 to Paris that cannot be repaid feel only too happy today to get bet whatever she hc offers us and we pa pay a price for tor It that staggers stag the average mind But with all that granted grante she he would be bo blind who v did not aCe seo the trend of or the times Umes And nd here Is the sincerest evidence e of It tt Once upon a time our dressmakers and shops sh-ops were not as honest as the they might have berth been and as the public would like them to be be because the they put French labels into American gowns own An Immense hubbub was raised about 1 this after It t had gone hone ou on for nearly two decades eades for tor the French were rightly furious and they were aided In their fight on this side of ot the water b by those who felt tell that tho tiro evil should be eradicated eradicated root and branch Today American labels arc are put Into inlo French Trench gowns owns This Is Js not a wild statement It Is done at some of or the iJ best t houses Mannequins will come In Ur wearing frocks Crocks which the told are arc the de designs of the house Itself and these models arc are sold gold to shops and f lesser dressmakers and pass liaS throughout through through- out the country coultry as the tho creations of oC an American designer They were wore really made In France brought blought to this country count coun coun- t try by Importers copied verbatim and turned out as American cr creations That is not hone honest t but that Is not exactly the point of ot title tills particular etor story Tho extreme interest centers In the tiro fact that the tho substitution t of one Idea for another In the national brain has compelled or persuaded the th trade lo lu offer orter to the public whatever It can cani i J that bears an American stamp J In la the Chr Public to Those who design n clothes In this country as well as ns those who sell them them ray ay that their living depends upon suitIng suit suit- lug Ing the public fhe They give this a as the fundamental reason why the they changed I the American labels to French ones for n nearly arly two to decades and now change the French labels l to American m rica n on ones easy Well If Jt one method was unfair to France the second is far more so 80 To change chanse a n button or the tha disposal of or a yard ard of braid or the lining of a L girdle docs does not make the gown sown American Those These are arc the tricks that arc used in tho the trade to avoid wold tho the copyright laws but In this da day when France Is H facing her Industrial condition with the thc same I supreme courage that she shows in the i i trenches It Is not right and tho public should not support tho taking away from Paris of the name namo and antl fame tame of ot bat she has hag done It Ih would be much better and would Woul how a 0 noble spirit on our part to 10 hive give I c everywhere There is alwa always s a a. largo segment of ot rich American women wom wom- cn en and even those without wealth who prefer rere a a. Paris arts model or a COP copy of It to I anything that America can turn out They are used to l French gowns and tho they prefer to rem remain ln loyal to that with which the they are arc familiar The Rite AM As They Develop elop I The Tho statement that has han been made b by the trade In women's clothes that the thc sales have been higher than for years proves tho tiro contention that most of ot us us made In tho tiro beginning of or the tho war wal that while v tho millionaires who were accustomed accustomed tomed to Paying great pricey prices for clothes might not bo be able to do so during during- tho the war because of or the Income tax and tl their various charities still the tho people t I who had never ne been able to i clothes would do so In a rush buy on good aci ac- ac i i- count of or their marvelous c earning capacity ca ca- ca This was true In England and France a. a ai as was 8 said and It ha already I proved truo true in America Another nother thing which Is heartening the dressmakers dressmaker and shops Is that the Ule great mass Ss of or women pa pay higher prices for their clothes than heretofore This i 1 t Is not only onh due to Increased wages but to a a. dem demand nd for Cor better quality and I I Women arc are In such lIuch va- va vaI vai i I ri ous public activities that the they cannot slouch around in old clothes or hl hide o t themselves behind their front doors You Too cant can't put a l. l million women to work In offices s and factories without Increasing ing in ne' ne g the tho sale of at apparel for tor this work And so all along tho the line lino of oC fashion tho the d development hits has been of extraordinary Inan Interest and one finds rinds tho tiro cl clothes othes no not on only good but graceful attractive at attractive at- at and In n most cases practical Wo 0 really are arc a cr very well vell dressed continent continent con con- ti nent today toda and wo we have o fewer women women women wom wom- en parading around in old ohl cloth clothes s than we 0 expected Here an and there thero there Is a tendency to wild ild exaggeration but there thero is no blatant immodesty Indecency Inde Inde- Indecency is Ie e left lett out of the tho scheme of ot ap ap- ap- ap parel This is the broad fundamental basis on which has developed in the time last six weeks 1 You ou all know b by this time the tho facts w which govern the seasons season's clothes the skirt which Is tight at the rite ankles and gracefully r loose over o the hips the oriental elimination of ot the waistline tho the slimly cut shoulder and back the thelong thelong thelong long sleeve steers or the tho absence of ot sleeve slee the time Arabic Arl tunic the lime cravat girdle which tics ties In root front and the time elimination elimina lion tion of or tho the bustle effect It Is quite important that the sil sll- silhouette silhouette has really changed since store Sep Sep- Dont Don't throw up your oUr hands and gasp snap at this and S say that fashion never ne leaves one alone for or a minute It Itis Itis I is Js really a change chanse that was teas foreshadowed foreshadowed o owed wed b by those who watched clothes from the beginning of or last March Noone No Noone o one should protest at this agreeable c change hange from the time silhouette of or tho the planked shad for it carries grace brace with It t. t This loosening up of t the hips is a return to the skirt of ot a n nearby arhy season and a far ar oft off epoch It Is sot not adhered to in its a D. strict manner that If It f you ou want that plumb lino from shoulder to knees have It but you will l t y v y tf t l t y I. I 1 r l t J J Jr r r rI rr I r f I I I r. r S- S I find that unless you oU adopt the straight chemise tunic of or the French frocks you will prefer more moro wl width th at your hips than at your knees It Is 18 one of or tho time subtle changes In clothes that h has s caused women to lo and renovate reno reno- vate rate Cult e Toddle Tho The entrance of or the hobble skirt plus plu the tho Japanese toddle is almost cn enough ush to take a D. womans woman's mind aWa away from war work worle Tho Those These are strange twins ot of r fashion to bo be born Dorn In this autumn of 1918 HilS but women will overcome over over- come the tho hand handicap leal a adopt opt both o of them and become immensely well VeIl pleased with themselves before Thanks Thanksgiving day a arrives That hat is the tho peculiar and quality l with which women are arc endowed adjusting themselves toa to toa toa a circumstance and antl seeming to fit It in a few days The Japanese toddle has hu Already become be bo- bo come tho the walk of or the moment amun am the mannequins They caused ira im im r t. t V r J i f c k iy f fl r f ll i ic 1 c t r Z k j r. r it i 1 4 t- t 44 1 e. e I v y V F 1 vy t a t y S i iT T i A r I 1 ti I 0 1 y Above on the left is an afternoon r ct frock of terra cotta velours embroil embroil- embroidered ered cred in blue and gold sold The tight skirt is of dark blue satin The tunic is f cut into petal panels These arc in indifferent a different widths r v 4 aa J j At the right an inspired Arabian f r I street suit of black velour trimmed I with gold gall braid and buttons The bellI bell- bell I shaped tunic is edged with black Caral cara cara- l cul cuI The tight hem hein of skirt is finished fin fin- m Y fished with gold braid At the left is an evening gown of black satin with mediaeval bodice of gold brocade It forms a sash in the ft back and is lined hoed with black There are arc at front and back of cut 1 jet beads I f t j r. r 0 i S.- S. J. J i w v l. l i 1 y 4 k S 7 i t tor N t Y r r pit rr S 2 t rl 1 f r i menso mense amusement at the thc exhibitions of ot gowns because they exaggerated it I with none of C the equally lau laughable haLle majesty that tho the French mannequins ha have havo 0 a assumed for a decade We Yo havo have no 1 or inthis inthis in inthis this country countr but wo we have our OUI Dolores and amid of or the immediate Immediato past and surd our Mabels and and Marguerites Marguerites of ot the present so 80 wo so got get all nil the time gestures an exhibition of ot clothes quite worth while seeing It t i la fa those mannequins who have hav Introduced the tho Japanese toddle and It Jt la lit a necessity if it one ono would walk in some of tho the 1011 long draped skirts that pull at tho the ankles C makes cv evening c owns gowns that have havo a a. tight jet Jel strap aerO across i the bock back backof of or tho the nn anlo lo to hobble time the material N Mo No o matter what tho the nature of tho the gown own abu O the tiiu It is narrow there to o the thc Irreducible minimum Tunics funks and panels may muy float above e lt It it minaret ma may swing outward with their shaped bull hems items but the tho hem of or J THIS EXACT MANIPULATION OF DRAPERY IS NOT Ill THE NEW V GOWNS BUT THE TENDENCY IS TOWARD THE pF p TOP RATHER THAN THE LEAD PENCIL VELVETEEN VELVET G VELOURS ARE THE F FABRICS CHOSEN BY WOMEN WOKEN AND AUD EEN IS A GLINT OF METAL IN ALL THE EMBROIDERY PUT 0 ON N EVERY VERY KIND OF FABRIC v i U 1 tho the skirt has taken to 10 HS' HS Itself I the dimensions di dimensions dl- dl of a mans man's trousers It has also added the up turned-up cuff curr and t some borne of oC tho the really smart frocks that are arc turned out have this cuff cutt when thc they are aro not draped It breasts the line of the tube tuba effect and Is quite good r It Is made of oC peltry paltry or of a 11 cloth different from that which makes the skirt and It Is often orten faced with a n bit bli of or brilliant color like orange or that new brilliant blue that Callol t combines with black Whatever else those skirts may do th they have e made the tho skirt with tho flaran flare flar e an Impossible garment sarmento Few women dare to wear It If H It Is a l. l pleated or a t full skirt that hangs In straight ht lines it hem is pulled into an extremely y narrow strip of or cloth or paltry If H It Is s the skirt that tried to tide lIde many women women wom worn en over oer last season the gored on one with wit h flaring seams at tho side and a bin bias s front width then alteration Is helpless Rip nip It t open If IC your mind is economically call cally Inclined and amt mako a cuirass s blouse of ot it ft one which is cut In panels panel ss s helot below tho waist and hold held in by a loose loos e belt All the tho discarded materials of th the e household seem to go o to these blouses for or wo we do not look with keen eyes eye s upon a house with a temperature of ot 6 60 0 degrees and a transparent blouse It makes tho the gooseflesh rise oven even now Velveteen Win AVIn In Out There Is such lI an accumulation in the dressmaking places ces of or velveteen gowns owns being bein- made to order that one feels es that every woman has decided to have at one in her wardrobe Velours Is another favorite One no ne has hs I I a I l y tI i a t r r I If f q Above is an an n American street of red cloth gown showing the new long tong r f skirt pulled in at the ankles and bordered with fur The bodice of deep tucks has a collar of striped fur mat matched rimed in the cuffs At tho the left is an immense muffler of te sealskin skin striped with moleskin I There i is s a shaped barrel muff to match Tho The French French marine marine hat is of black velvet I 1 if more inure confidence In the former ormer than in inthe the tho latter but there thelo is IJ A look of ot warmth and purring comfort about velours that snakes makes ono one choose It even against tho the debate that goes on In ones one's mind about its durability It Is la combined with satin while velveteen is left to itself Embroidery goes s on both velveteen and and velours and |