| Show 1 21 The Salt Lake Tribune Sunday December 24 1989 19 Pristine Capitol Reef park is a gem in Utah's desert It was a turned upsi ners of the on places from the fri ringing it dc were footla the rose in ( joining the European 'I was East G ing to field travel from Here was B And still will surely city of Praf the new den time for a n But for ti ing back on ade coming By Robert G Seidenstein Knight-Ridde- TORREY Utah — Perhaps the reason Capitol Reef National Park is virtually unknown outside of the West is its terrible name It hardly brings to mind the romance or grandeur of Yellowstone Yosemite or Zion Its south-centrUtah location 225 miles from Salt Lake City and 350 miles from Las Vegas — is not much help either Then there is the fact that the park area did not have a paved road running through it until 1962 What was once the main east-wecrossing is a gorge — now a hiking trail — which is subject to flash flooding Most of the park's scenic drive which runs south for 10 miles from the paved road state Route 24 still is unpaved To get to other parts of the park vehicles or grueling backpacking trips are required Now about that name The Capitol part comes from the resemblance to some early visitors to the area of the park's massive domes of white rock to the domes of state capitol buildings The Reef part of the name must be read as a synonym for "barrier" The barrier itself has a strange name It is known as the Water pocket Fold This too requires some explanation The fold the backbone of the park is a spectacular 100- mile-lonwrinkle in the earth's surface It has pockmarks on it that hold the little rain that falls: hence Waterpocket Fold The words however only hint at what the fold and the park are like To be at Capitol Reef especially at a quiet time of year is to feel awe and the humility and perspective that come from great empty places It is to feel that the land is eternal while we are not What a visitor sees are the remnants of a towering angled wall that in spots consists of a startling array of brown tan red green gray and law pie rock Erosion has created canyons running perpendicular to the fold What is left of the cliffs near Route 24 and the scenic drive are fantastic formations with nicknames such as "the Castle" the "Egyptian Temple" and the "Golden g Throne" One more element completes the picture It is for southern Utah at least a rarity — a running river The Fremont River which Route 24 parallels through part of Capitol Reef r Newspapers has its source in 11000-foo- t mountains near the park The river meant that the area could be inhabited that there would be a human history to go with the geologic From 700 to 1300 the inhabitants were people now referred to as the Fremont Indians Why they left is a mystery variously explained by raids from rival tribes or by changes in the climate that destroyed their lives as farmers The area it should be noted can be brutally dry and hot Visits in the fall and spring are likely to be much more pleasant than summertime visits Capitol Reef and the Henry Mountains to the east are said to have been the last pieces of the continental United States to have been examined by whites The Capitol Reef area wasn't explored until the decades after 1850 Prospectors eyed it in the early 1870s Then the Mormons came The leader of the church Brigham Young who in the 1840s had led his people to what was to become the state of Utah ordered that certain valleys in the area be examined as possible grazing land He issued his directive in 1873 In 1880 a settler came to a spot now located in the park Soon the little town of Fruita — the residents grew fruit — was born (Today orchards still produce and the taste of an apple on a clear warm October day in this oasis of Utah desert is a special delight) But there is another side of this history Mormon polygamists hid out in canyons in the area when they were warned of the approach of officers trying to enforce the law against the practice Others hiding out in the canyons included the outlaw Butch Cassidy also Cowboys and prospectors passed through In the 1950s uranium prospectors came They helped establish jeep trails that some tourism boosters now want to pave a prospect feared by some environmentalists In the 1920s two local residents Joseph Hickman and Ephraim Pectol helped lead an effort to establish a national monument in the area In 1937 a presidential proclamation es- tablished Capitol Reef National Monument Its original size was 37000 acres which was subsequently enlarged to 254000 acres Fruita's The easily hiked Capitol Gorge trail residents were bought out and in 1971 Congress established Capitol Reef National Park reducing its size to 242000 acres The best way to see the main part of Capitol Reef is by foot The hiking is quite simply phenomenal In fall the trails — unlike the ones in Bryce Canyon National Park 120 miles away — are almost deserted If you meet other hikers they become friends not potential spoilers of the experience The sky is a spotless blue The air is clean (At night in the park so many stars are visible that it is freaky almost overpowering) Some canyon trails are sandy Others lead up and down over solid rock There are pinyon pines and junipers trunks with their mangled-lookinand patches of evergreen The feeling is one of freedom — from the civilized world but not from the follows the old unpaved route through the Waterpocket Fold The remote areas of Capitol Reef are best reached by vehicles Visitors can pay a guide to drive them to the ethereal Cathedral Valley to view its monoliths For an idea of what desolate really is and for glimpses of a desert of red and purple hills head east of the park on Route 24 The two towns closest to the park are Torrey and Bicknell They offer motel accommodations The best bet for food is the Capitol Reef Inn and Cafe in Torrey Try the smoked trout g earth one-mil- e Information about the park may be obtained from the Superintendent Capitol Reef National Park Torrey Utah 84775 The phone The Visitor number is Center which is just off Route 24 is open daily all year long except for some federal holidays g operator By Alice Larkin Steiner d Closer to home of the collections provide interpretive materials that help the observer to better understand the historical and artistic importance of each work Volunteer docents provide guided tours through the larger collections The collections described are permanent exhibitions Some of the organizations also present special exhibitions throughout the year The Museum of Fine Arts University of Utah The Museum of Fine Arts is Utah's general art museum The works range from ancient Egyptian artifacts to American contemporary paintings The works are grouped by culture and period An interpretive guide is provided for each gallery Additional copies of the guides can be obtained from the information desk Two or three visits are recommended to do justice to this excellent collection Docents conduct tours of the collections on Saturdays and Sundays at 2:30 pm except during the Christmas holidays Tours for groups of six or more can be arranged by calling 581-358- 0 Location: Park in the lot across Campus Drive and east of the University of Utah's Rice Stadium Entrance is on the north side of the Museum of Fine Arts building Hours: Monday through Friday 10 am to 5 pm Saturday and Sunday 2 to 5 pm Cost: 2 Free Phone: (recording) 9 (administration) The Springville Museum of Art Springville The Springville Museum 581-733- 581-704- of Art has the best retrospective collection of Utah secular art in the state The collection was begun in 1903 with the donation cf works of art by local artists to Springville High School The museum's permanent collection includes over 600 works by Utah artists from the 1960s to the present Of particular interest is the artists portrait gallery which includes portraits of many of the artists whose works are in the permanent collection The Spanish colonial revival building was designed as a museum by Claude S Ashworth a Provo architect and constructed in the mid-'30- s by the Works Project Administration The museum curates and sponsors a number of temporary shows of works by Utah artists in the galleries on the first floor Of particular note is the April Salon which is a juried show of recent works by Utah artists Guided tours are available Tuesday through Friday from 10 am to 4 pm Tours can be arranged by calling in Belize Living in limbo and loving it By John Rasmus Universal Press Syndicate Belize is the kind of country where a traveler can fill in the blanks with his imagination and no one will be much the wiser From an adventurous traveler's is perspective its pretty compelling And there's a lot to do: some of the best diving in the Western Hemisphere including a strange deep coral tunnel into the Caribbean depths called the Blue Hole ancient Indian ruins overgrown by centuries of dense scrub jungle good fishing on the coast for everything from barracuda to marin lin and wildlife and the interior If you have never heard of Belize it could be because it's so strategically inconsequential that the major national security threat is an old border dispute with Guatemala Tucked away on the Mosquito Coast of Central America just south of the Yucatan Belize is a small and underpopulated nation of 170000 people Much of it is covered by dense uninhabited jungle Its past is a hazy legacy of dead Mayan cities abandoned buccaneer camps and marginally successful colonies patched together over the years by Mennonites runaway slaves and refugees from America's Civil War Belize is the only English-speakincountry south of the United States so it's not exactly an integral part of the Latin American family of nations either Even the name lends itself to the imagination It was called British Honduras until 1972 when that name was dispensed with in favor of one whose roots appropriately enough no one seems to know Free of oppressors and imposed traditions there's a feeling that things are still possible if unlikely in Belize Much of the interior is still unexplored which the government views as an asset A few years ago biologists working in the Cockscomb open-endedne- g g area of the interior proposed that the land be set aside to protect jaguars No one had ever really settled or farmed the area and there were no objections so today Belize claims the world's only jaguar preserve Belize is both a little tamer and a little rougher around the edges than you might think The capital of Belize City the departure point for most trips to the interior is hot dirty not much and poverty-stricke- n better off than it was in 1961 when Hurricane Hattie flattened it Meanwhile the offshore island of Ambergris Cay to the mild distress of local-colo- r purists is slowly moving in the direction of a mainstream Caribbean-sdestination with an airport tyle that can accommodate commercial jets But you shouldn't let that stop you There are probably more adventures to be had in Belize per capita than anyplace in the world In the interior of the country — mostly in the Cayo District west of Belize City and in the south near Dangriga — wildlife and Mayan ruins are the main attractions There are at least a dozen ancient Indian sites of note including Xunantunich and Altun Ha and the famous temple of Tikal is a few hours away over the border in Guatemala The town of San Ignacio is a good jumping-of- f point for river tours and jungle walks in the area near Mountain Pine Ridge There are several hotels and lodges nearby To the south there is the Cocks-com- b Basin Wildlife SanctLary — home of jaguars and other exotic jungle creatures such as toucans and peccaries and the town of Dangriga home of the Garifuna Indians Although it is possible to rent overland vehicles in Belize City most travelers to the southern areas sign on with tour groups which visit the major attractions and stay overnight in lodges in the jungle or on At the Arctic Circle Continued from T-a silvery beard no matter how often he A carpenter was installing a new mailbox so Santa could pigeon-hol- e requests by country "The busy season will start in October" Manner said back then "The Finnish Labor Ministry employs 60 people to answer letters to Santa from October through January We send out letters in Finnish German Italian French Spanish Swedish and English "This year we're expecting more 1 correspondence from children in Russia Poland and Czechoslovakia" Manner continued "A Russian crew filmed a TV show here two years n go We've had TV coverage from Japan Europe US and Brazil At Christmas time this is a very busy place!" If you want to try writing Santa again his address is Santa Claus' Post Office Santa Claus Land Arctic Rovaniemi FinCircle land Pat Hanna Kuehl lives in Denver 0 Co 489-943- 4 240-229- 9 240-331- rivers which have the best wildlife viewing Several miles off the coast the islands of Ambergris Caye Caye Caulker and Turneffe are part of the world's second-largebarrier reef The diving and snorkeling near the reef is excellent as is offshore On the mainland side of the islands and in the shallower flats is some of the best bonefishing around Depending on the island accommodations range from very modest to moderately expensive San Pedro on Ambergris has a wide range of small hotels and lodges and more general recreational activities such as windsurfing and snorkeling while the other islands offer more exclusive and expensive accommodations and diving and fishing packages Among the romantic types who have fallen for Belize are a number of tour and lodge operators Personalized Services (PO Box 1158 Belize City Belize CA) gets high marks for its inland tours as does Tropical Travel Representatives in Houston General informa((713) tion on accommodations and services is available from the Belize Tourist Board PO Box 325 Belize City Belize CA or TAN Sahsa airlines game-fishin- t 1 6--7 nousmourn' ILAS JAN 29- Im 111 --4 BAH FEB DINO DAYS-- FEB DAYS-- 13 m SOUTHERN STATES APRIL 20-22 DAYS —3129000 $389 CALIF 9 days — SPECIAL Nth Nett 35 a 2 6 davs $ 27 1228 SIM mus sso --- 17 CASH 219 - 122 ON ALL JACKPOTELKO $27 o Ruth $235 7 one Mare Ellen Elggre 22-Apr- 5 il New Orleans Natchez Pilgrimage Atlanta Charleston (with 6 months recovery from Hugo) Savannah St Augustine Cape Canaveral Orlando EPCOT Cypress Gardens The South in spring bloom and at a leisurely pace with 2 night stays $1717 plus air Dm 35 $1552 plus air ALASKA OVERLAND SPRING Awl! I TOUR a I June 274uly 9 Enjoy a Temple Session at Idaho Falls Alberta Canada Seattle & the New Beautiful Portland We will enjoy the "Greatest Show on Earth" — Rodeo Stage Show Lunch at Beautiful Lake Louis Butchart Gardens SPECIAL EUROPEAN TEMPLE TOUR 6 special European Tour Includes: The Famous Passion Play Oberammergau Visit Germany Italy Switzerland France England Swiss II Frankfurt temples Lk London Theatre 21 Days Fully Escorted This g 11 1 Wilbur Webb 278-310- 1 2380 Evergreen Av SIC UT 84109 Elmotammimmnam2mil 0 Park Fairbanks City Whitehorse Skagway Juneau Glacier Bay Sitka Vancouver via air rail bus riverboat narrow gauge train and 4 day luxury cruise aboard MS Noordam Anchorage CANADIAN ROCKIES TEMPLE TOUR & CALGARY STAMPEDE June vt $2899 UPCOMING 1990 TOUR DATES SOUTHERN UTAHARIZONA April 2 CANADIAN TRAIN TORONTO TO VANCOUVER June 12-2- 5 CANADIAN ROCKIES CALGARY STAMPEDE July 1 HILL CUMORAH PAGEANT TOURS Departing July 10th 12 & 17th Choice of five itineraries Ranging from 7 to 14 days SHAKESPEAR & SANDSTONE July 16-2- 1 (including Mantl Pageant) Aug 1 MONUMENT VALLEY NEW ENGLANDATLANTIC CANADA FOLIAGE TOUR 13 Sept NEW ENGLANDPENNSYLVANIA FOLIAGE TOUR Oct 9-- eat OR -- E In Venez dren roller in Caracas the time co conducted French C lucky if a Christmas cats especis Young pE nine founts night churc Eve A lege' sips of wa they'll find wife waitinl The Amu boiled spim the belief t spinach on was born In Czech cherry twig and if the Christmas marry with With min mas traditic USAT 1 LOS ANGELIS From $59 E Etayn Based m Rounottrip Rirchase Add $10 fa me way SAN FRANCISCO ' Via Oakland International ds From Each s7ilr E3ased on Roundtrip Rirchase Add $10 for one way Call Ail chart' lights 0 355-206- Haan ma Express One cr Continent Arlines and are subject to the terms of the OperatoriPartopat Contract BRQCHLIRE S 58Pidlp 8 Ru 128 mneapoks ktiZa YZrIZ!!!!!! Roundtriplaq advanced ptuillasugguired HAWAH HAWAII HAWAII MILAN $399 $299 (from SIC) leader Mikl Italy at th( should hav( (fromLA) ROUND TRIP AIRFARE Style-set- - - INTERNA- Avi 4111or 1 OP c EUROPE Amsterdam$448 Brussels 16 Dawson Temple Session at Monti St George the New & Beautiful Las Vegas Mesa Los Angeles Oakland (If ready) Boise Idaho Falls & Logan Enjoy 2-Aug Denali 10-2- 0 CI World!!! 2-1- of our special ow Th - I The Kentucky Derby in Louisville Lexingon & the horse farms Great Smoky Mountains Dollywood the Biltmore Mansion at Asheville Chattanooga Nashville Opryland Grand Oly Opry Grace land in Memphis America's heartland of rich culture 3 TEMPLE - COUNTRY ROADS May 4 tours You'll love the many special activities: French Quarters in New Orleans 4 Days & 4 Day Panes tor DIsneyEpcot Extravaganza Charleston Atlanta Nashville's Grand Ole Opry a Opry Land USA & Elvis Presley's beloved Grace land in is ' ' DEEP SOUTH DEEP SOUTH This ::i:'''''x:ti! March g April - :ii:b lawson Shield VEGAS DISNEYLAND "ill" 77 - DAYS 61 EVE" Generations ( 1iii::" r A A 5DV $199 5 Days RENO $169 5 Days LAS ED :::::: 4120 NEW YEAR'S EVE Wendover TA $11 Wendover 0N $55 Wells 0N $40 snaltoo BACK —1 4- Lake Tahoe Rem YEAS NEW ELKO — O'NITE MON aD 5 DAY WEEKEND 544-282- 6 S ou-'- 2 nights each LVSan Diego Anaheim stae to lisiana 1 IX :ESCO DE 4 DAYS ROSE PARADE FIST DATE 12 29 I I IN 14 BUSES t-- I25 RENO WEEKEND SPECIAL MARCH 1 - ' MCI LAKE TAHOE BOAT RIM V011001 CALIFORNIA CIRCLE -34200 or PHONE 485-120- 0 ft Toll Fro mmm mom ma ma mu am Ai am elm — LAWSON SHIELDS t 00:6 !emeiti )79 114 excluding hadays (eft ad) May cancel anytime N00 194500 5 days EVERY DAY FOR THE PRICE OF CA NARDI (IRAS FEB 1- 1-14 " ELKOJACKPOT 111 DAYS---S4- 4 days 121 HOLIDAY SPECIAL 1 HOLIDAY 6 RI WENDOVER L 6- RENO DAILY SILVERSMITH ea ' nea where The the most n year when fare of a d waiters and costumes w geographic( Portman N miracles in time Stewart began painting Tours of the collection can be arranged by calling in advance Location: 44 North Main Street Kaysville Hours: Monday Wednesday Thursday 2 pm to 8 pm Tuesday 10 am to 8 pm Friday 2 pm to 5 pm Saturday noon to 5 pm closed Sunday Cost: Free Phone: 4 OtiR 1 41 B ! 01 VE $115 CS TOURS SUNNY SOUTHWEST JAN 1DAYS- -339000 P N collection of works of contemporary Utah artists that is displayed in the new County Complex and in the farmhouse at Wheeler Farm Most of the works were acquired during the construction of the County Complex as a result of the County's policy of spending one half of one percent of the cost of new buildings on art The art work is displayed in the halls on all floors of both the North and South buildings The collection includes a wide variety of styles and mediums Although some of the artists do not currently reside in Utah all have spent a significant amount of time as practicing artists within the state A brief biography of each artist accompanies the artists' work Catalogs are occasionally available at the information desk in the North Building Location: County Complex 2100 South State Street Hours: Monday through Friday 8 am to 5 pm closed for state and federal holidays Cost: Free Le Conte Stewart Collection Kaysville Gallery of Art in the Kaysville City Library In a comfortable room in the Kaysville City Library is a small but stunning collection of paintings by Le Conte Stewart a Kaysville resident until 1988 Stewart has had a major influence on landscape painting in Utah through his years of teaching at the University of Utah and his many commissions for the LDS Church The room where the collection is housed is decorated in the arts and crafts style popular at the OURS — At $75 $98 327-122- 6piN 1 ' I I g There is even a fairly clean dimly lighted restaurant called Mom's in Belize City from which to compose your own stories about Belize Mine from a few years back concerns a man who got drunk on his 50th birthday and challenged everyone at our little hotel to a midnight swim to the reefs off San Pedro where the hammerhead sharks swim In this same story is a jeep ride to the Mayan pyramid of Altun Ha silent and deserted except for a few men sitting around a single mosquito candle and hot afternoons on the mangrove flats south of Ambvi gris Cay poling after bonefish It's all true but the material seems a little too Hemingwayesque right now One of these days I'll go back and work it over some more OONN''S' r exiaa' 688-198- ((800) sential advance Concerts are offered at 3 pm on Sunday each month Call the museum to obtain a list of performances and concert dates Location: 126 East 400 South Springville Hours: Tuesday through Saturday 10 am to 5 pm Sunday 2 to 5 pm closed Mondays Cost: Most exhibits are free Phone: Museum of Church History and Art Salt Lake City The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-da- y Saints has been a major force in the development of the visual arts in Utah The Museum of Church History and Art includes both religious and secular art by LDS artists held in the Church collection Utah landscapes LDS Native American art and portraits of Church leaders are the focus of the permanent collection The museum also presents special exhibits of works by LDS artists and on Mormon religious and historical subjects Docent tours can be arranged by callVideos on selected arting ists and subjects can be viewed in the basement Location: 45 North West Temple Street Salt Lake City Hours: April to December 9 am to 9 pm Mondays through Fridays 10 am to 7 pm Saturdays and Sundays January to March 10 am to 7 pm daily evenings until 9 pm Mondays and Wednesdays closed Thanksgiving Christmas New Year's and Easter 0 Cost: Free Phone: The Salt Lake County Fine Arts Collection Salt Lake City Salt Lake County has assembled an impressive w Tour at a f seemed no who bough White Hot Rockefeller For this fortable Ion tal recliner from Hono' Tokyo to Sit really is to then to inge sake Singal Browse through local art collections for holiday fun One of my favorite things to do on a wintry day is to browse through a collection of artwork The Salt Lake City area boasts several fine public and church art collections All of these collections have a theme that ties the various works together Viewing the collection with the theme in mind will enhance your understanding Additionally many ' anniversaril of presider the penetra south of th when Mery line Branif went brokE Brooklyn el ital of cultu Money se el trail leads to Hickman Natural Bridge A longer one leads into Cohab Canyon which has hundred of holes eroded into its walls The Frying Pan trail which can be reached via the Cohab Canyon trail rock forgoes past a mation that looks like a giant face A it mult There is camping in the park and within an hour's drive in Dixie and Fish lake National Forests Many of those campgrounds are at elevations of greater than 8500 feet The campground in the park at the old town of Fruita is at 5400 feet above sea lev- $448 ORIENT HONG KONGTAIPEI (FROM SIL) TOKYO 8799 8699 t things Rus craze whict Jtaly becam port genuil has spread es and even Milan's I and the Sol just compi change tou rnent store season feat ing from cli The lates Milan of 51 costumes ji and househ cow Histor seen the li Union let the 1917 13( Attractin visitors a d last month ciute" (Unl tion was e Gorbachev' (FROM LA)G SOUTH AN:ER:CA ItIOSA0 PAULO8899 (FROM IAX) SOUTH PACIFIC AucluAND$989 SYDNE- Y-(MAY - AUG 81099 : FROM SW) JENSEN BARON A DIVISION OF It ir inun 41'41'1- - Beal Excf 60 E SOUTH ITMPLZ surrE 250 SIC 1 8411 - 004 IMO ate lublval is!chanstZilturitm iidiuw - - I ro i - tb a g i 4 AP cE |
