Show prom from abo democracy WHAT KIND OF CLOTHS thic THE dexa sa m us 08 lifs is from seemingly a yorkshire manufacturer reporting upon the exhibition of woolens in our crystal palace exhibition of last year in tl the somewhat hilly district of yorkshire be huddersfield Hudders field and leeds stand on two pro ces the pretty little towns or of Dawd bury and batley gar alis stranger on an alighting from the railway earis car is struck with the unusually large ware wan houses built of stone atone by the railway company for such smelt stations are mysterious erections but bat if he ha enter the principal will probably find hundreds of bales con contains taing the cast off garments of great britain and the continent of europe in fact from all parts of the world are brought the tattered remains of the clothes some of which have been worn by royalty in the various courts of en rope as well vell as by the peers and peasants the rich broadcloth of the english nobles here com mingles witt tle the livery of of their servants and the worsted blouses I 1 pr french republicans while the american Ameri catl pantaloons and all 01 other worsted or at woolen goods may liere there be found 1 h reduced ced to afi one common lev leal 1 and known by one common appellation of rags 9 thi walls of the town are placarded pla plit carded with payers auctions of wod dies Mun goes goei rags ragi 1 slid and such like arleele of and wery every few fety days the goods de of the railway is besieged beil eged by sturdy looking ck who are examining era mining with great t attention iod the vatious various bates so some of which are arwied into whites amne stocking I 1 OM blach k at shawls I 1 tuft stuff ii I 1 lui onn sayi t 4 doth at A joval looking man of doubtful temperance principles at last it steps forward mid and pots the goods up at auction the price which taase as worn out oat articles artless fetch is sur the uninitiated old stockings tige wilt will re I 1 lize alize from V 7 to 10 a tou ton while white flannels flangel will sometimes sen sell lor for as much as 20 a ton and even more the hards or black cloth when clipped freo free from till all seams and thread threadbare thre adare oare worth from 30 to 30 a ton there are common mixed forte of coarse fabric which can be bought as low as M from 13 3 to za 5 a ton whilst the rubbish 1 conal consisting tin of seams and indescribable sare I 1 pur purchased cael by the chemists for the manufacture of potash crystals for from M 9 to M 3 a ton it will be seen that assorting these old woolens is equally important with the assorting ng of the different I 1 ferent I 1 t I 1 qualities of new wool and there is the additional adi I 1 dit ional consideration of colors to render assorting still more necessary it is surprising however ho I 1 with what rapidity all this is accomplished there are some houses where old woolen rags are divided into upwards of twenty different sorts ready for the manufacturer the prin principal cipul varieties are flannels of which there are english white I 1 welsh whites irish whites and drabs each of them command a different price iu in market I 1 the and welsh being much whiter I 1 than the irish and finer texture are worth nearly double the price of tho the irish the stockings st i are the next in value to the flannels on account 0 of the strength and sAnd elasticity of the wool tite the I 1 peculiar stitch 0 r bend of the worsted ln in stocking i manufacture and the hot water and washing to W which 1 I 1 the they are an submitted during their stocking elisie existence nce I 1 kave have the effect 0 of producing it a permanent elastic elasticity it y which no after process destroys I 1 and no new wool can be found to pos possess sees hence old stockings are always in good demand and realize for good clean colored sorts as much as xa 16 6 a ton in busy sea seasons song the white worsted stockings are r a the most valuable of the and when 1 supplied T alie ld in sufficient quantity will sell for as much as aa a tori toil carpets and other colored sorts are generally owing to their rapid lati onto be lied had tit at vety very low prices the rag collectors and merchants in america would be sure to find a good market tor for flannel sand stockings in england but bat tits the common articles article would scarcely pay for the tr transit ausit the hards 1 consisting of old superfine cloth will generally realize good prices lit in england and should be stripped of the seams and sli sifted eted free from dirt before exporting we have seen from 90 20 to 30 irish women io in a room all cutting the seams from old cloth tah is in fact an important branch of the business and iu in liverpool manchester and nearly all al large towns it finds employment for many hundreds of hands they are generally paid by the weight of ra rags 99 they cut shoddy so well understood in yorkshire is the general term for the wool produced by the grinding or morel more technically the pulling up of the soft woolens and all woolens are soft except the superfine fine cloths claths the usual method of converting woolens into shoddy is to first carefully assort them so as to see cht not a particle of cotton remains on oil them and then to pass them through a rag machine this consists of a cylinder three faella diameter and twenty inches wide with steel teeth half an inch apart from each other ot herand jand standing out irom the cy cylinder inder when new one inch this cylinder revolves times in a minute and the rags are drawn gradually close to its surface by two fluted iron rollers the upper one ne of which is packed with thin stuff or skirting so as to press the rags the closer to the action of the teeth the cv cylinder linder runs upwards put past these rolle rollers raland and any pieces ofray of rag which are 0 not O t completely torn tarn into wool are by their natural gravity thrown hack back again upon the rags which are slowly creeping machine the ro rollers ailers are fed by means of a creeper or slow y moving endless cloth on which a man and in some instances a woman lays the rags in proper I 1 quantities otie one of these machines is common commonly lv quantities juan driven riven b by f a oven biven inch strap and requires tit at least east I 1 five fiva horse power half a t ton of rags can be pulled in ten hours by one of these machines the dust produced subjects the working people who first commence this occupation to what is there called the liag rag fever but after a time the immediate effects are warded off and though it no doubt shortens li fethe remuneration being considerable two english shillings lings for every pounds pound of rags pulled there is never any difficulty in obtaining workpeople tile the mango is the wool produced by subjecting the hards or superfine cloth to a ahn similar ilar operation to that above described the machine however for the mungo trade is made with a greater number of teeth several thousand more in the same sized cylinder a and n d the cylinder runs about revolutions in a minute the rags previous to being pulled in this machine are passed through a machine called a shaker this is made of a coarsely toothed cylinder about two feet and a half in dia metre which revolves about three hundred times in a minute in a coarse wire a c cylinder this takes away a large portion of z the a dust which is a chimney by means of I 1 a fan the mungo pulling cleaner business than the shoddy making and as a general rule is more profitable tire ilia power re quit ed for a mungo machine is that of about seven horses both the better kinds of shoddy and the diun rn u n go have for sime 3 years ears been beebi saturated with oil but when we were last in yorkshire we found that milk had been applied to tills this purpose and found to answer exceed exceedingly ingy well the consequence was that milk had risen per cent in price rice and even in that district where cows are I 1 kept ep ti in in large rge numbers it was feared there would I 1 be a great scarcity of milk for the supply of the towns when well saturated with oil or milk the shoddy dy or 1 alie I mungo mango is sold to the woolen manufacturer fac there are scores of men who attend I 1 the Hud derfield market every tuesday to dispose of their mungo mango it is as much an article of marketable value there as cloth is here it is not unusual for good mungo to realize as much as beight eight english Englis fi pence per pound while the shoddy hoddy varies in price from one penny to sixpence per pound according to quality I 1 tile the common kinds of shoddy require of course to be subjected to the scouring process for which large wooden beaters or stocks ore are ernp employed oyed the dung of hogs is largely employed ply I 1 in this purifying process as well as human fluman urine which 1 is a extensively used in the blanket ian manufacture 0 of f yorkshire I 1 the white shoddy is capable of being used either for light colored goods or for the common kinds of blankets while tile dark colored shoddy ih ia worked into all kinds of coarse cloths claths carpets we which are dyed any dark alolor so as to hide bide tile die various colors of the old fabrics it is mixed with now new wool in ia such proportion as its quality will permit without deterioration deteriorating 9 the 9 sale ale of the material tile the mungo is used in nearly oil all the yorkshire superfine fine cloths claths and in some very extensively it produces a cloth somewhat inferior of course to the west of england goods in durability but for finish and appearance when first made up the inferiority would only be perceived by ii a good judge of cloth the great english slop sellers moses and hyam are among the largest purchasers of yorkshire broadcloths the ile effect of shoddy in the cloth of an overcoat in the wear is to rub out of the cloth and accumulate between it and the lin lining ilig we have seen a gentleman take a handful of this short wool ool from the corners of his coat the grounds on which this shoddy and mungo business cab be justified are the cheapening of cloth and the turning to a useful purpose what would be otherwise almost useless the business in York yorkshire shim is dignified by the tit leof the dewsbury trade and to it dewsbury certainly owes its wealth and we might almost say may its existence in go 90 years it has grown wn from a to a town of some inhabitants and some immense I 1 W 3 1 A fortunes have been made by this extraordinary transformation of old garments into now new considerable quantities of white shoddy have been sent from england and scotland to this country and a machinist mach idlet informed us that he be had I 1 31 sent several of his machines so that the trade is not entirely unknown here and it isi in probable that there will one damarise day arise a dewsbury in the new england states which will render it unnecessary to send old woolens to england to be pulled into wool and then returned here again at the cost of some per cent above the price given for the woolen rags |