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Show B4 WASATCH COUNTY COURIER MARCH 21, 2001 Humble Haute Cuisine at Sage Grill KIRSTEN SHAW COURIER ark City has a plethora of gap, $9 for an Angus cheese- putting flair into the quality of West Coast, with a touch of Western burger. on upscale tourists. polarized, burgers catering to its But the selection offering overpriced or over-the-top trendy and expensive fare, with nary a shade in between. Rosanne _and cuisine ents restaurant is prepared to offer patrons ly crusted goat cheese accompanied by endive and watercress in a mild roasted pepper vinaigrette is perfect with incredible food served by a competent—and happy—staff. The energy from the open kitchen flows throughout the airy room Ruiz, former Capitol Café and Grill at the Depot chef, taught at Robert Mondavi’s park-like Food and Wine Education Center in Orange County. She has worked with culinary masters such as Marcella Hazan and Julia Child. Her cuisine encompasses the fresh and exuberant flavors of the restaurants has Ruiz and partner Nancy Nickman are hands on. From early morning until nearly midnight, they ensure the STAFF But Ruiz and rather Sage Grill’s is closing freshness than posh Chef. the of pizazz. . For starters, the calamari fritte with chipotle aioli and a spicy marinara is incredibly tender and light, lacking the heavy batter too often encountered. Spicy Prince Edward mussels swim with a variety of aromatic peppers. Flavors of the Northwest are abound in the sautéed wild mushrooms with toasted peasant bread and mild Teleme cheese from California. The special on this particular evening is California asparagus with a quail egg and mustard vinaigrette. The smoked chicken salad, tossed with currants, apples and Gorgonzola in a honey-ginger vinaigrette is a Sage Grill favorite. But the pan-seared, light- ingredi- décor and eccentric presentations. The Sage Grill is tucked into an unimposing strip mall at Kimball Junction. The booths, soft music and teutral tones set the bistro mood. Nine-year-old kids playing cards are likely to rub elbows with fur-swathed Texans sipping champagne from Riedel stemware. But don’t let the easygoing atmosphere fool you. Ruiz and Sous-Chef Stephanie Adams’ food is some of the best in Utah. Like any good business owners, the melt-in-your-mouth garlic focaccia. The warm spinach, pancetta, Gorgonzola and Calamata olive salad is wonderful on a cold night, but the combination is slightly salty and unbalanced. Entrees range from focaccia. to-. $25 for specials. Pasta dishes are offered and are sure to impress. Try . the linguini with clams with garlic in a white wine sauce, or Mediterranean shrimp, wax with bacon, a garlic, Nicoise olives and ‘Parmesan pasta. Herbivores are acknowledged with the roasted vegetable potpie. - Ruiz is blessed with PHOTO the ability to create enticing dishes, yet stops short of adding the unnecessary. Her garlic chicken is prepared Italian-style, cooked under the brick— literally—and the flavors are softened alll COME IN AND SEE ALL THE NEW ITEMS oven-roasted duck Pinte Pony Designs Veuve 261 South Main ¢ Heber City, UT tains, the desserts are down-home and amazing. The chocolate chip cookies surrounding homemade chocolate ice cream add a perfect amount of saltiness and depth to a creation that could otherwise have been sickeningly breast, Clicquot, Kenwood, sweet. The young, or young at heart, might enjoy an orange cream or rootbeer float. Ruiz’s créme brulee is renowned, but the lightly battered banana fritters, caramel ice cream and homemade ginger ice cream are divine. en | The Sage Grill, located at 6300 N. Sagewood Drive in Park City, can be reached at 658-2267. The restau- rant is open Tuesday through Saturday and offers chef dinners and cooking Glasses* eet ng Grgich Hills and Talley Vineyards selections are well thought out, and it is refresh- 435 - 654- 5555 Pro's oe Incandescent Sea Foam ) Work Light Motor Tune-Up al »99 aoe | Car Quest Premium 7 Hi-Temp Disc Brake Wheel Bearing Grease Ry ssan ou ww) Victorian homes and pristine moun- enhanced by slightly carmelized cabbage with mustard seeds and rich duck confit mashed potatoes, is outstanding. I’ve had many a good duck breast, often precipitously balanced atop a fried plantain or sweet potato statue. Never has it been this simply good and with such forthright flavors. : | Sage Grill’ s food is reasonably priced. But the wine list, albeit impressive, is slightly limited and expensive. _ Wonderful and rustic furniture _and accessories. : the per can mo Lae | oe SHAW ing to find and extensive by-the-glass menu. But a glass of red wine is not available for less than $6.50. However, if you aim to splurge the $12.50 glass of 97 De Loach is one of the most complex, balanced and fruit forward Cabernets I’ve ever tasted. sete. Like Park City’s mining-era by creamy polenta in a red sauce. Grilled balsamic pork chops with porcini mashed potatoes and glazed carrots are a house favorite. The 7.5-ounce Gorgonzola stuffed filet mignon is—like all Sage Grill’s cuisine—amazingly tender. But BY KIRSTEN Owner Rosanne Ruize presents her “Under the Brick” chicken. f 4 a a x 5 y MME Ruan a 33 a ) _ per tube |