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Show Woman's World Reversible Raincoats Make Smart Suits for Street Wear W.L White ii'A INSTALLMENT FIVE rtr - doctors have less American than doctors, training their people probably get better medical care than do many Americans in the lower income groups, who cannot afford good doctors and yet are too proud to go to charity clmics. And Soviet medical training has made great strides in recent years. Today I visit Eric and Joyce at the embassy and am invited to lunch. Never have simple, vitamin-stuffe- d dishes like canned pineapple and tomato soup made with condensed milk tasted so good. Afterwards Joyce and I follow Eric up to his room. He brings out a list. "This is the itinerary theyve worked out for the Urals trip. Its too long. Lots of places Id like to see, but my chamber meeting starts the twelfth and I absolutely must be back for that. Just before Johnston left America, the Soviet Ambassador promised his Russian trip would include both an interview with Stalin and a trip to the front. The latter is now going to be delivered, only we are to visit not the German front but the Finnish. It is necessary first to go to Leningrad. The reporters are excited because Eric has agreed to take half a dozen of them along. So far none of them have been able to get near though says Kirilov, as we climb into the waiting Zees, In his bright we visit fur factory. lexicon, a factory Is any place where something Is produced. This one turns out to be a collective mink farm. It was once a village. The houses still stand along the mud street. The biggest, which probably belonged to a thrifty kulak who was liquidated in the thirties, is now the administration building. The communal kitchen and dining room is in the second biggest house. A nursery school is in a third. In the director's room is the usual picture of Stalin, the usual carved furniture. The director is a lean, gentle farmer. His face and neck So are his are weather-beatehands. So are the faces and hands of his assistants. These are rugged, intelligent farmers such as you might find in the Farm Bureau Office of Lyon County, Kansas. This director gives us some statistics. His collective has 1,200 hectares (hectare-21acres), of which animal cages occupy about forty. It raises minks, silver foxes, sables and martins. Mink pelts bring almost $12 each, and at a wholesale price of about $800, you can buy the seventy necessary for a coat, which will retail at about $2,500. It takes about sixty-fiv- e sable skins to make a coat, and these pelts are sold at prices ranging frpm $50 to $000 each. Only one or two sables are born in a litter and it sometimes takes a hunter two weeks to find and kill a single animal. Wild sable pelts sometimes bring $500 each. The darkest and silkiest made up into a coat bring as high as $45,000. Practically all of them are sold in New York. In normal times, also London and Paris. Very few In the This morning, n. 4 Soviet .. s half-starve- d i rusting ruins of w'recked tanks. said Eric, Now somebody, ought to do a magazine piece about Look at these Russian women. them out there back working alThe ready clearing things up. women of Russia! Probably the engineer and fireman on this tram are Look at all the women women. weve seen in the factories. Those women out there dont shrink from hard work! Theyre practically keeping Russia geing! The magnificent women of Russia! We glide through a wood as heavily blasted by artillery fire as those in the Somme in 1916. Only a few shattered, branchless trunks protrude above the shell holes. Here the Red Armys excellent artillery had to blast the Germans out of every inch of ground. The colonel tells us that these German fortifications were built when they cut the railway line, completing the encirclement of Leningrad In late 1941 and early 1942. This encirclement was only broken by the Russians late in 1943. We now pass a railway siding where the heavy machinery of a factory stands loaded on flat cars. It is a former Leningrad plant, returning from its wartime exile in the Urals. As we drive from the Leningrad station to our hotel, we get a good look at the city. It is a beautiful, town, built spacious, over two hundred years ago on the shores of the Baltic. As part of a drive toward Westernization and modernization Peter the Great built his new capital on the shores of the Baltic, giving Russia a window on the civilized outside world. There is In its beautiful, clean architecture little suggestion of Russia. The architects were all French or Italian. The city might be part of Paris except for its churches and except that its public buildings and palaces are painted lemon yellow, the color of the czars. n and It is, of course, now dilapidated. Yet, somehow, we all felt we were back In Europe, In a gently cultured, comfortable run-dow- machines. world. The mink farm is orderly and clean, and the sturdy farmers seem to know their business thoroughly. The supervisors, both men and women, are They agronomes. degrees - d Soviet Union. I get a brief attack of social connascience. Here this tion is forced to put skilled farmers to raising useless animals for the cream of the foreign luxury market so that Russia may buy useful have rri from agricultural schools in veterinary science. A visit to what Kirilov calls a meat factory, which is, however, not a stock farm but a packing house. Since it is food, we are again garbed in rumpled, slightly soiled white. It differs little from an American packing house, but they show us something they say is a Soviet invention. The cow, instead of being slugged with a hammer, is struck Just at the base of the skull with a Javelin, tipped by an electrically charged needle. This stuns but does not kill. Her heart continues to pump out blood after her throat is cut and while, suspended by the horns, she moves down the disassembly line to be skinned. I say she advisedly for Soviet beef consists almost entirely of worn-ou- t old milk cows, calves, or an occasional bull whose romantic fires have burned to embers. Almost no cattle are raised to maturity purely as beet Here it is the end product of the dairy business, as It is over most of Europe. In the Soviet Union tenderness makes little difference since, due to the lack of refrigeration, almost all red meat is prepared as smoked sausage. During our entire stay in the country, only twice were we of- fered steak. We were surprised at tills plant to find that the basic wage was only BOO roubles a month instead of the customary 750. However, the fact presently comes out that woikers who overfulfill their norms (almost ell of them do) get an extra dividend, not in money but in meat, which is infinitely more Important. Joyce and Eric return wide-eyefrom todays trip. They visited a large Russian military hospital, a section of which is devoted to the repair of genital wounds. They have here developed a surgical technique to treat men who have had their vitals blown away in battle. Although visiting Soviet doctors have free access to Allied hospitals on the Western fronts, it is most difficult for Allied medical observers to visit Soviet field hospitals. Tills is not entirely because of the traditional Russian suspicion of foreigners. They are a proud people, and conceal their weaknesses. Their general standard of medical care cannot compare with that of the Western countries. They spend fieely on the more spectacular branches of medical research, but under tills top crust, the average Russian doctor has less training than a good American nurse. So when permirslon to visit a Russian hospital is refused by the 6oviot method of delay and postponement, tl e real reason often is Unit the Russians know the foreigner would learn nothing new except the men Berness of their equipment. For the general poverty of the country extends to medicine. Yet even d Mink Industry was found to have become big going business. enough to the battle lines to hear a gun. A Soviet front trip usually consists of a trip in a de luxe Pullman In the general direction of the lines, a perfunctory interview with the sector commanding general, Inspection of some abandoned German trenches, and at the end, champagne and vodka at the officer's mess. This time they hope It will be different Eric, Joyce and I traveled In what when we left Moscow, was a private car at the end of the train. It was clean and comfortable. Its rear contained a long table and there, of course, was the Intourist steward, laying out the sliced sturthe champagne, geon, uncorking and opening the cans of caviar. But just before dusk, the train was halted at a junction and a ramshackle boxcar was hooked on beTwo hind. machine guns were bolted on Its roof. Some straw was also piled there and on this sprawled the gun crew half anti-aircra- ft a dozen Red Army boys. The Soviet Union was taking no chances with the safety of the titular leader of American business. Thirty or 40 miles farther on we are baited again at a siding to let a troop train pass us on its way to the Finnish front By Western standards, they look shabby. They have been haphazardly piled aboard this rickety train. Everything seems improvised. The equipment is battered, a little rusty and considerably lighter in construction than ours. In many ways Russia is like Mexico. Both peoples have been basically agricultural, with no great aptitude for industry and still less experience. The general poverty of Russia is no less than that of Mexico except that it is a cleaner poverty. Also the standard of health is better in Russia and this has cut the Infant mortality rate. Russian doctors do not have the problem of persuading the peasants to accept are what medical care they equipped to give. In Russian villages the people arent asked; they are told. The compartment I share with Joyce is a little larger than an American Pullman compartment but lacks all the ingenious contraptions with which Western nations make limited space useful. There Nor toilet. The is no washbasin. only mcehnnlcnl device is the bolt on the door. The train comes out onto level ground and we see ragged women, who plow barefoot through this mud, have planted little potato patches In clearings of the debt is of concrete pillboxes, barbed wire, and the Russians, proud of Leningrads are always annoyed If you mention the fact that the town la less damaged than London. Actually the beautiful old central part la almost intact, except for broken window glass and nicked cornices. Shell or bomb craters are rare. In Leningrad we are put up at the Hotel Astoria, one of the relics of czarist grandeur. Eric has what could be no less than the former Romanov bridal suite and we inspect this with awe. There is a large dining room, a spacious sitting room and a thundering big bedroom with matching double beds covered in silk brocade. The room are done In the lavish style of czarist days, and there are several pieces of porcelain thick with china cuplds tickling each other or else pinching the gilded bottoms of angels. Opposite our hotel is St. Isaacs Cathedral, but there is no hint of It Europe in Its architecture. squirms with Byzantine ornament d over which float spires. It is Russia, and back of Russia, the Eastern Empire of Constantinople, and back of that Bagdad and the temples of Asia. Before the war most of Russia highly skilled precision workers lived here and it was the center of Russias precision Industries, which, however, were only about 10 per cent of the whole. Leningrad also made tractors and comparable machines. Most of this factory equipment and the people who worked at it were loaded into freight cars and hauled halfway across Russia to the Urals, Siberia, or the Chinese border, where they are now operating. We are taken to Leningrad's city hall and there meet the official Alexal Bararchitect of the city anov. On the wall Is a huge map of future Leningrad. Some of this grandiose plan had been built before the war; most of It Is still only on paper. Intellectual continLeningrad ued with this planning during the blockade, as both architects and people were sure their town would never falL Like everything in Russia, it Is very impressive In Its blueprint stage. On to tha new Palace of the Soviets, the hub of the future city. We drive down a wide atreet be of tween row concrete barracks - like workers apartments. Suddenly the city stops. Beyond the last apartment are the open fields of a collective farm, whose buildings we can see in the distance. But near us is not a shack, a shed, a bungalow, or an old fence. We have emerged Into open fields of grain and potatoes. Her a city follows, not the contours of the land nor the desires of the people, but a blueprint on a drawing board. Suppose those people In that six s'ory concrete workers' barracks had been able to choose, would not some of them have preferred modest bungalow here in the outskirts? bric-a-bra- c, onion-shape- six-stor- y (TO BE CONTINUED) Strictly Streamlined rlta JlahiA (Bij Lovely Needle Thats Refrfsl, IF D EVERSIBLE raincoats have A'- been In style just long enough for the older ones to wear out and become shabby looking. However, in most cases, it is just the gabardine side which Is worn and spotted, inwhile the tweed or solid colored side is almost as good as new. Your first job in remodeling this caretype of coat is to inspect it Is too fully for worn spots. If it or badly worn out along the sleeves too shoulders and will require much cutting away, then dont try to stretch enough material out of it to make a dress or suit for yourself. It can be used to much better who for daughter advantage wears a smaller size. Since these raincoats have had the hardest of wear, your cleaning Job will have to be tops. This can be done at home with a good dry cleaner and thorough pressing, or it can be done professionally. Take particular care to see that all spots are removed before you start working. When you finally take scissors in hand, remove the gabardine or outside first. Then remove the collar, pocket flaps and front closing from both sides. Press the remainder of the material, open carefully, and separate the coat at the waist After you have decided on a definite style, the material is easy to lay out and pin on the pattern. Sometimes this takes a bit of fitting, but dont be discouraged, as with a little moving about you can YOURE all agog aboul going to portray Forever Amber, whom in - j STAGECSCREEN Released by Western Newspaper Union. By VIRGINIA VALE here are the most recenl casting additions: Peggj Cumming, the young Eng lish actress, has the role of Amber," of course, and Cornel Wilde is the dashing Bruc Paul Guilfoyle, Clydi Carlton. Cook and John Rogers are Jim Dead eye and Blueskin respectively. Twentieth is doing it in techniCentury-Fo- x the and production has alcolor, the cameras, before ready gone with John Stahl directing. Osa Massen, who has a featured role in RKOs Deadline at Dawn, was a photographer and film cutter before she became an actress. "Lot er, when she was a star in her na- FOR a magic effect linens, embroider p fl0 borders in natural colors, tc off with a pineapple crochet So fresh! Martha Vickers, now appearing in a Warner Brothers picture, is wearing a The Big Sleep, black wool Jersey blouse with a striped taffeta collar and cuffs to match the peacock blue and black striped taffeta skirt The crochet motif can Pattern v 795 be has a traisi. motifs averaging 4',i by 12 m directions. Due to an unusually large dema current conditions, slightly more required in filling orders for a few most popular pattern numbers. Send your order to: J I w casting, whipping and are commonly used in tailoring. Youll find bastings when working with a woolen garment. The seams should not be stretched or the stitching will seem Consider the tight and with as wool of compared price some of the cottons and rayons, even though you are working on reclaimed material, and you will want to work with it carefully. The results will well repay your efforts. even A garment though made at home can look as though it were handled by an expert tailor. Another small pointer which If you have a reversible raincoat Is well to remember when working make the material fit the pattern. with. wool, is to hang the garment A shirt-waistyle In a dress when you are not working on it, this type using a minimum of and also to keep the skirt or bodice material Is a good style, or an- hung while the other is being other of the classic types is also worked on. an excellent choice, both from the To cover the pocket openings as point of view of material and type suggested previously, cut strips of of wear desired from this fabric. inches wide and lining fabric 1 Another little detail which you will the length of the opening plus 1 want is slashed pockets bound with inch. Press or baste Inch seams a contrasting colored tape or rib- around all edges of the strip. on bon and closed as they are Baste the right side of the openready-mad- e dresses. ings, keeping fabric smooth. Stitch A bolero type, too, is easily made strips on edges. Press with a damp from this type of material. This cloth. These strips will be hidden is a particularly smart choice if by the pockets. If the material is d the top part will not make a a smooth, dark fabric a band of bodice to a dress, and too, contrasting ribbon would be very the dress will need no collar and becoming. the sleeves can be made As finishing touches to the garlength. A smart touch is to trim ment, a complete pressing job is the sleeves and opening of the front In order. Use a damp muslin cloth of the bolero in contrasting ribbon and do take your time. Here, more and have a belt to match the trim. than on any other material, pressThe slim skirt should be fitted as ing is the secret to successful tailcarefully as possible. You will un- oring. doubtedly have plenty of material at your disposal because these coats are made much larger than your to Make skirts. Be sure to select a pattern Clothes Fit or style, however, that has a seam In the front, directly down the Home sewing gives you a woncenter as this will, of course, be derful opportunity for making open or cut in the material you things fit. Slight alterations on garments spell the difference between good and bad grooming For lengthening a dress, a folded band of contrasting material may be added to the dirndl type of skirt. The band, when finished should be about 5 inches wide for a youngsters garment and 7 inches wide for the adult. A concealed piecing at the top of a skirt can also serve to lengthen a skirt. Use a bolero for concealing purposes. If the sleeves of a dress are rip them out and reMake it into a smart dress. make them. The current trend in the cap sleeve makes it possible are using. Basting, pressing and to have new sleeves even if sewing, however, will enable you to there is only a small amount of mat-ria- l. make a neat closing of the material In front. Proper sleeve padding is Wool Garments Need Ready-mad- e Care In Tailoring pads may be purchased reasonably, or they Since a dress is much smaller may be made from the same mathan the original coat, you will have terial as the garment. Baste of material for generous plenty them in and fit before seam allowances. Even if the patactually attaching them. . tern calls for narrow scam allowFor bagginess at the back ances, make them wider. Work on of the skirt of a a flat surface and press each seam dress, take out the back waistline scam and side before it Joins another. seams of the skirt. Raise the All woolen garments should be back ,hasklrt Just enough to bring machine stitched at all points. The the side seams into line. Re-fstitch well, it should be as short SC8ms and even the hem- as is practical for the fabric, and line you are the best judge of that. Over- - on t , Circle Needleeraft Df San Francisco S, u Enclose 20 cents for Patter. Sewing Box 3217 No OSA MASSEN tive Copenhagen, she pitched in and cut and edited her own pictures. And shes still at it she now makes a weekly photographic record of Susan Haywards twins; the girls became friendly while In Deadline at Dawn. Name- - Address. Lowest Birth Rate Amo Women of Most Sclioo well-tailore- d st well-fitte- three-quart- Adjusting Vell it Cass Daley had a beautiful dream the other night. She dreamt that she was in the White House, singing as she never sang before. And her accompanist President Harry Truman, of course. Now her one ambition is to make that dream come true. Housewives, take a bowl Professor Quia says housewives usually make out the best on bis program, with doctors, lawyers and teachers on the rear ranks. And he should know. Hes had contestants from every state in the Union on his nd Thursday night radio show, there have been some from Canada, Europe and South America. While Ingrid Bergman was makshe also ing Saratoga Trunk made an abridged version of it for herself, shooting it in color with her own 16 mm. camera. Gary Cooper was camera man for tha few shots of herself which she Included. She began making her own pictorial recg ord of in Hollywood shortly after she arrived there; Casablanca turned out so well in her miniature version that she attempted a more ambitious record of Saratoga Trunk." Incidentally, she read Saratoga Trunk aloud, when it came out, to perfect her English, and was so much impressed by Clio, the Creole heroine, that she envied the actress whod play her and got the role herself. How the number en devote to their In the maiket for a spring coat nlaL c I ns' com'n i .i CiS checks and in the short, e st,nl7'qUartcr-lc,,Ktcool bu7 h i 45-4- 9 Those who had complete: to four years of grade schoc an average of 4.33 who had e childre-thos- completed years had an average of I while the women who had I college averaged 1.23 chd:fi. - 3 Older people I If you la . stamina you should- -; your diet lacks the natur Vitamins and energy natural oils you need-- w fjoodtastwff Seottit" helps build ttamn,' rest atance ta coldi wonderful differed Scotts at your druggist EHH3M3IS3 dentists amazing dtscc Must HoldYcarloosef Try ft Comfortably Secure or youll get your money think bow I .$ k.Vj Ricardo Cortes Is resuming his acting career after four years retirement from the screen. Hell return in Republics The Twisted Circle," starring Adele Mara, and will play a suave villain. British actresses seem to be stepping Into the lead in a lot of our pictures lately. Lilli Palmer, a British film star, has been signed to a long-tercontract by United States Pictures, the new producing company headed by Joseph Bernhard and Milton Sperling. Her first assignment will be the leading role in Cloak and Dagger, in which Gary Cooper will play the lead. Grace Albert, a Crime Doctor regular, la a successful business woman as well. Shes purchasing agent and eastern sales manager for her mother fruit cake business, operated in Minnesota. just feel (and " dressy P'Cture- arc - and Gimme RlPtt Rj( ASunQim c syri "Chej ate EH,he look) SJCtD talk and laub-- CHERRY tOIKireiHR'aooy.. you V8 beta P410 )" " e" , Don't Nt t mike you rumd to uio 8iio Sloio. tu donluro ndliM'M. eeart ah dny long orllilU yOU Heres 0 S S0thint One Of The Gfp IM IM. I ?nsss i ! YOU women You gin and from eltnplo anom a out . weak. "aiHrcpd to lack of 1 rfd Plnkntim s 7 ABL homo wava t0 ,ull,dn ?uPch o- - . , more strength y, get one w hum's Tablets are T tonic blood Iron WHEN YOU WANT THAT NEXT JOB ODDS AM) KM)STed Coll, ns. Kate ' manaxer, has lined up Hay l.ary Crnrit, Dorothy I, amour and Uhi in De lit ii ill,md for guest broad, ast on the Kate Smith show. . . . L'mtrd Artists is to pleased utth Tom lUene-rnan- s first p tore, Breakfast in Hob I) Hood, that he's been signed ta make a re a year. . . . Though Joan folds first CaJ film, Miss Ss,e t, It just being released, Joan't aln be, ready named m eight polls os the most promising rw ar . , ypj. r II, n An, liens and her Ihlgian shop-IteI dog Started their theatrical careers m the same Orson If cites prodticlirn . Out the aog'$ now retired. r, coats TtERI BtHAk, Sla-fo- e bi"u lUffer in 0 Mil-lan- If youre dressing for business, then youll want one of the new soft woolen bolero suits or dressmaker suits that make one look so Choose your exceedingly smart. colors carefully and stlect accessories with an eye to color. If you are choosing a striped coat, look for loose sleeves (Hint hi ip you wear suits underneath so easily) and lit pockets. i tively lowers the birth among them is revealed tistics collected for the firs' during the 1940 census and ing 2,638,000 married white en aged years, accorc: Colliers. movie-makin- Teresa Wright dreamed for years of having her name in lights on Broadway; then she made her debut in Our Town and had to change her name, because her name was Muriel, and there was another Muriel Wright on the Equity rolls. Teresas her middle name. of years education pisinTB Let Us St, & What ffe 0 If you prefer order by office it to the , . ;ii EA) oi |