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Show THE SALT LAKE TIMES: SATURDAY, OCTOBER 15, 1892. S I only trimming was the heavily embroidered band down the double-breaste- d front and around the very deep collar and cuffs, nd a tiny cdire of sealskin giving a dainty finish to the edires. The severely plain skirt was of the same cloth, and the bonnet, for bonnets are al-lowed with these plaiu tailor-mad- e costumes, was of cloth, trimmed with etitl black, wings. THE RUSSIAN COAT. The Russian coat suggests the much-wor- n Russian bloue, and yet is absolutely lack-ing in Us unshapely and careless look. Dark, heavy greea cloth is the material used, and the bands of embroidery which brighten and beautify it are of rich blue veiVet, embroidered iu Russian fashion, In crimson and green and jjold. The comb. nation of blue and green will be much, favored tins winter, and many of the Sew imported gowns show the two colors. As tue shaue used are those we are familiar with iu the broad Scotch plaid of blue and trreen, it harmonizes very well. The back of the cloak is made perfectly plain down to the waist, where a slight full-ness, which inakes the ekirt stt prettily, is urawn into a tutlt of the embroidery, which is lapped over the front, or is fastened with a quA.nt gold buckle. Two bands of give a vest effect to the front of the coat ou the bide which opens, the band lutely perfect; the poise of her head on her shoulders and the lines from her ears down to her shoulder being absolutely Greek. Jane Hading has a beautiful neck, which, unlike that of most Frcach women, is not too suggestive of preat fullnes. Toe pres-ent empress of Germany has a handsome neck and so lias limt. Carnot. Mum, Adam has - long been celebrated for the beauty of her necK and shoulders. In this countryit is most notice-able, especially in Washington, how much handsomer are the necks of Southern women than are those of women from the East or West. Southern wamen always credit their fine necks to their eating good food, so that it is likely that in the next generation the F.ast aud the West will be equal with the South, for they are learaiug- the value, as far as personal beauty is concerned, of pood living. Fanuy Davenport has a beautiful neckV white, tirm and dimpled. Mrs. Pot-ter's Is decidedly bony. Elsie de Wolfe' a is slender, but white, pretty and well formed, (ieorgie Drew Uarrymore has a magnificent throat and neck, perfectly moulded and as white as milk. Johnstone Bennett has a handsome neck, that is essentially that of a younc woman; unlike many women on the stage, she can wear a low bodice with-out its ever beiiiir suggestive or im-modest. Athletics do not tend to make beautiful necks, so that the girl who goes in for outdoor SDorts may be healthy and very - i ature to all parta of the body or which 5nter- - fere with the movements of the arms ani , ' shoulders. She should be careful to wear j garments which keep her warm, which j permit free motion of her arms and fully j cover the wrists. If this does not suffice to bring her hands up to a proper temperature an extra silk or woolen wristlet should bo worn. Warm haul baths, say once or twice a day, are beneficial, and exercises calling into play the muscles of the upper extremity are of great value. The woman with hot, red hands may take a cold bath of bauds, arms and neck and the last is most important at least twice daily. She should clothe her hands in well-tittin- g gloves as often as she can conveniently do so, and should attend to her digestion-mos- t assidu-ously. A diet which is not stimulating should ever be hers. The cold hand should be exercised aud kept in motion. It is al-most impossible te lay down any general rule for a permanent cure, but it may be. stated that the clothiDg of the lands and feet go together, and that if you keeD your feet warm your hands will be in sympathy with them. How to Wir a Veil. The veil has been dreadfully misused by the tailor made girl, who has turned into a kind of fUligre fence. The veil proper is not a stiff baricade of beads. It is a cloud-lik- e eajoier. It is not tied back and imiiiov- - make pretty buttonhole bouquets. If you are the fortunate possessor of a palm and rubber tree, bring them out of the plant room, decorate the parlor or dining room. Mark these grand holy days. Said a gray-haire- d man to me: "My mother had a geranium that bore scarlet flowers. She always put it on the table Christmas day. I do not think of the coose or turkey we had for dinner, but that plant always comes to mind when this time of the year comes round." But think of the poor, and especially the sick. A young man told me that he was once a prisoner in his room for several days with a hard cold. "Christmas morning I could not rise from my bed, and was almost in tears from homesickness and thinking of the good times everyone was having. Then the door opened and a motherly-lookin- g woman eaine in with a rose plant with a lovely bud on it. She gave me a "merry Christmas," and said she had heard I was sick and brought me a flower to cheer me. And it did mucli more than the extra good dinner the landlady had provided." Success with flowers. Silk Petticoat, Adieu! The reign of the silk petticoat is drawing t- - a close. To paraphrase a dressmaker Immortalized on the page of a famous novelist, "Silk is out, ma'am, and mulls is in," says the New York Recorder. The silk petticoat, like every dog, has hsd its day, and the confection of white mull housewife, whose ti.neaeems more than full, it is invaluab:e. It is to be had at the rub-ber stores, aud is usually sold by the ounce. It is just what its name wou'.d indicate, a very thin piece of transparent rubber. It is sold at fifteen cents au "ounce, which mean a piece perhaps six or eight inches wide and twenty iuches long. The tissue will not cover up holes that is, not satisfactorily but it will strengthen thin or weak mend tears places, or cuts; in fact, repair any sroods which has not actually lost a piece of itself, and it is nice for hemming. We will suppose there is a three-cornere- d tear in a gariuvnt. First cut away the frayed threads, draw tue edges together either with invisible stitches on the wrong side or by holding it with the fingers. Place a piece of the tissue, the right size, over the tear aod a piece of cambric or any other fabric desired over that and press with a warm iron quite warm, but not hot. Press firmly and then remove the iron, and the mendin is doae. There must always Be a surface between the rubber and the iron, or the former will melt and stick to the iron. For hemming, if the material is a goods which will notravel, turn it up once, slip a strip of the tissue just under the edge and press. If the goods must be turned twice, 1 aste the narrow turn with lonar stitches on what will be the inner side, then turn again, slip in ttie tissue as before and press it. This, of course, does not apply to wash eoods, unless you wish to renew the patch. It is very useful in mendiutr umbrellas, in FINE FALL WRAPS. For All A;es and Occasions Some Superb Irnl ?us. "The north winds do blow, and soon we'll liave snow," and cloaks aud wraps are the things we need most. Never were outside garments so pretty as they are this season, and never in the mind of man or of woman were they more elabor-ate and expensive. They must be of unusual length, reaching to and below the knees, and the sleeves and collars are works of art. First cut your sleeves and save what is left of the m&terial for the cloak, would be my advice if you should attempt to follow any of the models represented here. For your pretty young daughter' best whiter coat nothing could be more btyiisb. or suitable that a coat of heavy gray or mode-- - colored nicuaa ciotb, made in the fashion of an extra long box coat, without the dis-agreeable fullness in the back. The pretty lilting shoulder cape can be worn with or without the coat. Ihe trimming is of rich black attrachan fur, arranged to show just half an inch's width down the opening at the side, and forming the deep collar and cuffs aud the wide triangular-shape- d revers. The combination of rich black fur with the !eiicate!y colored cloth is an exceed. ugly pretty one, and will be greatly favored this winter. A large hat of gray felt, trimmed with loops of black velvet aud a bunch of black ostrich tipB, will make a very fetching ac-companiment to the cloak. A7 EXQUISITE PBOMISADE WRAP. An exquisite wrap which escaped the ticud at the custom house was la-beled by M. Worth, "For the promenade." It is made of dark dull red brown cloth, almost the shade of mahogany. The open-ing is straight down the front, and the s'kirt extends well to the knees. Back and front there is no fullness, and it is only slightly haped out at the waist line. The trout Beams come so exactly together that there is not the slightest hint given of the hooks which fasten it. The high rolling collar and deep cuffs are embroidered richly in the same oriental pat- tern which ornaments the front; lor the em-broidery, heavy gold thread is used, with rich braid iu ditferent tones of browu, from ecru to deep seal. The sleeves of this wrap are worthy of special attention; they are so graceful and at the same time so easy to blip on or off. A quaintly shaped hat to be worn with this wrap is of brown lelt, trimmed with a big bow of red-brow- n .ribbon, shot with gold. A visitixg ivR.tr. A great deal of ingenuity has been dis-played by the modiste in this exquisite com-bination of silk and velvet, which he has called a "Wrap de Visite." Of ruyal blue velvet, made to come below the knees, the front opened wide over a vest or pale blue heavily corded silk. The back of the coat is of the plain rich velvet; it is niada to fit the figure very snugly, and only a slight, graceful fu'lnes is allowed below the hips to make the set perfection. The coat is lined throughout with silk the color of the waistcoat, and ciown the fronts and the broad revers, w hich fare at the throat, is sewed a band of Rus-sian bear, the most exqui.-ii- e of all furs. The stiff, military looking coliar and cuffs pre of the fci'.k, bound with gold braid to match the vest. Down the lrorit ou both sides rich gold buttons are fastened, and frogs of heavy jrokl braid. From the vest hangs a twelve-inc- h fringe of gold passe-menterie. This wrap can only be ued for receptions and teas, or fr visiting when one uses a carriage. 'Ihe broad tlanug hat is of rich blue velvet, trimmed witn ostrich feathers of a lighter thade. "ELEGANT Sl.M l'l.ICIT V." Unless your figure is absolutely perfect, don't attempt to wear a coal which l be shown to you this season and called "ele-gant simplicity," for all of the elegance de-pends uj;on and emanates from the woman who wears it. Unless your lijfure will meet the requirements of such a garment, try an-other style, one that you can have a sort waistcoat put in, or combine with fur or vel-vet. But if you can wear it, pray do, for it is' the most chic and eioeant of all the fall shape. Dark heliotrope broadcloth was chosen for the coat shown today, and the . - Here are petticoats fit for a princess or the trosseau of an American bride petticoats that Esther might have worn with pride when she donned her "royal apparel" to beg favors of King Ahasuerus. There i one of rich black brocade, fev-ered with yellow, having around the ho .n a flounce of buttercup satin, veiled with ex-quisite black lace and heeded with festoons of yellow ribbon. And another flowered with rose sprays and flounced with old rose. Or, if your taste runs to stripes, here is one which cannot fail to please yon, made of alternate stripes of Dlack satin, blue moire and orange brocade, with two flounces of the same and loaded with knots of orange and black ribbons. Again, if one likes vivid hues for house wear, there is a splendid thing of poppy-re- d brocade, toned down by a deep flounce of creamy lace and fastened with broad, cream-whit- e ribbons. And the bride-ele- can find the daintiest ivory-whit- e brocade, with garnishintrs of ex-quisite real lace and ribbons, that her heart could desire. All these skirts, which once brought $30, $40 and S0, can now be bought for a com-paratively trilling sum, so entirely have silks been tabooed by the powers that be. There is one comfort about this nuw fad women will not hereafter hold their gowns up in order to show their petticoats, thereby making themselves lumpy in the back. In-deed, it may be the means of doing away with trained dresses, which were never de-signed for women who ride in horse cars. Another result anticipated is that the horses will have more attention at the annual horse show next month. Hitherto the display in petticoats has been so marvelous that even the men who write reports of the horse show for the papers have frequently turned aside from dissertations on "fetlocks," "girths." "ringbones," and other horse subjects to dwell upon the intricacies of chiffons and the splendor of silken lingerie. But there is ilo an unpleasant side to it. A petticoat which has lost the pristine fresh-ness of soap and water is an abomination In the eyes of all right-minde- d people, but a great many women will wear soiled white skirts, nevertheless. For laundry work comes high and washwomen are extortioners in the land. On the whole, however, the new fashion is a pleasing one. Silks and satins were never bo dainty for femininity as mulls and laces. There is something about a delicate skirt of lace and cambric that brings up visions of a dainty wearer. And to quote a man who knows a woman is never so fascinating as when she has on a black frock, high-heele- d slippers with silver buckles, her feet on the fender and her gown pulled up so as to show about two inches of a white petticoat. This being true vive la white petticoats! Rapid Mending-.-' . How many women know of llwc '"'is of rubber tissue for mending? js y extends to the foot of the coat skirt, while on the other side it stops at the waist line. ihe bonnet worn with this cloak is of greeu velvet with a bow of green and blue p. aid ribbon and two straight stiff feathers, which sliide into crimsou and a bluish green. THE BRIDE'S S,UPPERS. A Pretty Fad for Autumn and Winter s I.r !. You may have noticed the very artistic gold and siiver "tips and heels" which are displayed for sale in the shop windows. You may even have bought a pair for use upon your evening slippers. Well, the brides of the season, who are al-ways on the lookout for something new, have turned the beautiful filagree shoe decorations into a real feature of the wed-ding trousseau. Iustead of using them merely as liuisliing touches for the bridal slippers, tlisy are used throughout the hon-eymoon in many ways. For weddiutr occasions s lver tips and heels are irenera.ly chosen, as they harmon-ize better with the white gowns which a bride usually wears. The tip and heels are fastened upon her satin slipper and are permitted to flash and gleam as they peep out from underneath her gown in the long bridal walk up the churc haislc. After the ceremony, as the bride dons her traveling dress, the silver snre trimmings are quickly placed upon her traveling shoes and are worn on the first day of the honey-moon as tire "something new" which every bride must wear lor iuck. Later tuey are put, upon the slippers which the bride wears at her first reception. A:.d when she has worn '.hem upon all the important occasions which grace the first se.isou of the bride's life, the silver tips aud hce.s the emb.ems of eood luck are tnkeu off to he put away with the bridal veil and a rose from the bridal bouquet. If one might peer iuto the fuiure, the silver tips and heels might be seen adorn-ing a debutante's tlippcrs, and perhaps in ti :i. e they m;ght be "the something of mother's own" which every girl loves to wear upon her wedding day. CHRISTMAS FLOWERS. Not a Dillicnlt Thine; to Obtain if You Kevin in Tim. When you take the plants into the house, about October 1, it is not too early to begin to think of your Christmas dinner tab e. Very fewr of us, after the presents for Tom, Diet &nd Harry, can afford to spend even $5 at the florists; aud if we could, it is so much more delightful to raUe the flowers ourselves. Now, what shall we have? We can bo sure of a Chinese lily if we put it In water and in our prettiest glass dish the last of No-vember. I always manage a geranium or two. Agcratum and sweet alyssum .... ; wise, still, as she grows muscular, she takes away from the feminine appearance of her neck aud is apt to give it a rather stringy look. Hokvever, if she is healthy and wisj-- , perhaps she doesn't care for a beautiful neck, and yet it is the one feminina bit of loveli-ness that poets, painters, sculptors and even mere ordiuary men have raved over from time immemorial. A DasiKDing Woman. Martha D. Bessey ofA'ew York has won the prize of $50 offered for the best design for a badge to be worn by th members of the board of lady managers of the World's Columbian commission. There were 247 competitors, and the judges were Mrs. Martha B. Stevens of Hoboken, Mrs Ellen M. Chamber of Pomfret, Vt. ; Mrs. Frances E. Hale of Cheyenne. Miss E. Douglass Wise of Virginia and Mrs. AT. D. Owens of Olympia, Wash. The judges selected ten of the designs sent in, and sub-- mitted them to Augustus St. Gau-den- s, the sculptor, who promptly desig-nated that of Miss Bessey. The success-ful competitor is an unusually clever girl. After receiving a public school educa-tion, she graduated from the Cooper Union School of Design. She is in the employ of Tiffany & Co., and the only woman in their designing department. She also designs most of the pattern for the Cheney Bros, silk manufactory. Her badge design has a globe surmounted by figures representing commerce aud agriculture. Around the globe is a streamer inscribed "Juncti Vale-rnus- ." The badge depends from a three-ba- r chain, each bar of which is appropriately and differently engraved. The commission-ers will pay for their own badges and have them made of gold or silver at pleasure. Care of the Hands. Among the features which tend to make a woman attractive, aside from the figure and the complexion, there is to be taken into consideration the hands as well as the face. The face is the index of the mind, but the hands exert not a slight part in modifying or enhancing the general appearance. Hands should receive as much attention as is given to the lace. Their shape and their general contour are marks which define the individual to a certain extent. A lean hand and wrist and a fat hand and wrist display a something back of their simple physical traits. A cold band or a hot hand are in-dicative of certain physical conditions. A pale hand or a red hand are dependent upon many things, but are primarily matters of complexion, and this means a healthy circu-lation of the blood. The red or flushed hand belongs to a woman cf "full" tempera-ment, that is, one who has more blood than is actually required for her nourisnment. The skin is colored, not by the deposit of the material designed to give it a tint, but by blood flowing in the veins and showing its colors through the skin. The woman with pale hands, bluish nails and pinched flesh may probably rind the cause of this con-dition in a defective circulation of the blood, f.n imperfect digestion or in clothing which, is not sufficient to keep up an equal temper. ..-t- zi ,,. able; it is loose aud it floats lovingly across the face. It does not need to be tied; it would not escape such compauy. For the veil proper get a bcarf-lik- e piece of very sheer crepe. Just start it over the face aud let the wind keep it there. A little practice and you have learnt the art. Such a veil is ideal. It should be white but may be a pala rose color or even a pale green. The aver-age blonde or "fair brown" is ex-quisite behind such a veil. It floats around lier shoulders, it catches at her wrists as she lifts a hand. But a regal bru-nette can drive her blonde sisters mad with envy either behind or unswathed in a white veil, wherein she is like a rich apricot in cream, or shrouded in a deep scarlet of the sheeniest quality. Then she is like a cres-cent moon lifting through the rich color spilled as the sun went down. Such a veil is suitable for a thousand purposes and oc-casions. It is the veil the artist puts lightly about spring in her swinging, resting place among the peach boughs. It is the veil but there! A girl needs only a suggestion. A Snakespear Luncheon. A Shakespeare luncheon is something of a novelty. At one recently on the menu cards each dish was appropriately garnished with a quotation from the "imiuort:tl William," and the favors were pretty sketches, exe-cuted by the young hostess, of various well-know- n views about Stratf In addition each guest was asked to indicate about her toilet in some way the title of one of the bard's plays. One woman wore ou her corsage two small pictures, each of a man, and beneath a bit of ribbon with a large "A," surmounted with the letters "V. E. R.," to be translated "Two Gentle-men of Verona." Another, quickly guessed, had a full-pag- e periodical illustration of a "Tempest," neatly fitted on a girdle across the front of her waist and belt. A third guest created much merriment with a pen and ink sketch, which was attached to her chatelaine. It represented a dog and cat enjoying a meal of bones with great satisfac-tion. Beneath pussy was the legend, "This ? is Julia," which was all the clew the wearer wnuld give. A clever girl finally shouted, "Romeo and Julia eat," and the mystery was solved. Thing a Girl Should I.earn. She should learn to handle a goblet by its stem and not by its bowl. t She should learn how to make a pretty bow. She should learn as she learned her al-phabet that a eentleman should always be presented to a lady, never a lady to a gentle-man. She should learn that it Is bad form to congratulate a bride at a wedding. One congratulates the bridegroom, and wishes f the bride happiness. She should iearn that it is the worst of bad taste to appear thoughtful or absent-minde- d la company. She should learn, at table, to dip her soun from her; to use her tork only izi the flsix course; to lay knife and fork aside wfcen she passes her plate; to eat out of the etde of her 1 spoon, and to fold her napkin. , ' and lace is the accepted garment at present. The death note of the silk petticoat was sounded at the seaside resorts this past sum-mer, where every woman who made any pretensions whatever to fashion arrayed her-self in fine linen and real lace. Only when milady was bound on a yacht-ing trip, or a rough outing over the hills, did she don the bright-hue- d, serviceable silk petticoat. And the stay-at-hom- e city folks have followed the lead of the great ladies at Bar Harbor and Newport. She who shops may read the signs of the times in the shop windows. Last week nearly every store in town had a window devoted to a display of gorsreous silken petticoat that --would have made Solomon lament bis sex, and the liiies of the field hang their heads in mortification. And all these petticoats are at reduced rates. Fof-$- one may now purchase a pet-ticoat of the best quality of silk, made with two flounces and an under box-plaitin-known in shopping parlance as the "dust ruffle." Time was when this skirt would have cost $15. And really, for a light-weig- pet-ticoat not desired for a rough wear, there is nothing prettier or more serviceable. Any woman who has a proper amount "f pride will find these skirts delightfully cool in summer and "plenty warm enough" in win-ter. But the clerk will tell you there i very little demand for them just now. "And still less for these," she says, toss-ing over a pile of vivid-hue- d skirts until the counter looks like a gorgeous flower bed. - - repairing sleeves which are almost worn through, in strengthening broken places in made over goods and in applying patches to the seats of the small boy's pants. A Point of Feminine lieauty. Every woman like to have a beautiful neck. And every woman who hasn't it is looking around for a way to jret it. A neck may be slender, and, if it is white, will look well; but if the bone stand up as if in op-position to their existence, a veil of chiffon had better be drawn over them. A neck that it tolerably well covered by flesh may be improved by a very simple treatment. This conists of bathing it every niyrht with warm wa'er, so that the pores will open, drying it softly, aud before it has time to thoroughly cool off givins it a gentle mas-eag- e with cocoa butter. Now, most people think that cocoa butter is a bard stuff that is sold iu cakes, but it isn't. You have got to go to a drug store to get it. It is about the consistency and color of lard, and when it is in a warm plare it will melt so that it is as thin at sweet oil. A good many actresses use it to take their make-u- p off mid that is the veiitable cocoa butter. SpeaH-in- of beautiful necks always suggests people who possess them. That of the princess of Wales, which looks so lovely in her pictures, is not really beautiful, for her throat ii too long, and her bones, which the kindly photographer spots out, show very perceptibly. The countess of Dudley has an exquisite neck, and so has Lady de Grey. Mrs. Langtry' neck and throat are abso- - .... --nrw jTymm. '.mjimu-- j .' 'jiiM"jjmu'! x rriikir fa ' -- r I ' 1 I ' ZZZI j . 3 HaBBKWaWSBOBBaBBBmiBBBBHHWMHBBMB. - d r : A mm iPiill KPill Sim I plr Jilli Itsi p3i Poll feslr iliini I- - Ji mm mmm msf mam a fi liiyp'liip d r .t: . - Served notice Tuesday morning that he would take possession shortly. He's a pretty cool customer to deal r, . with unless you are proof against his assaults. Are you? Do your thinking now. You should be prepared to M welcome him when he appears. Lone: before the autumnal winds began to blow across the fields we were busy 1 making preparations for his reception. The result may be seen any day at our store. We leave it for you to say , how well we have succeeded. . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Overcoats and Fall Suits. jj f OUR SHOE STORE: "fl . j Jj o Those new Overcaats and Fall Suits which we spoke about to you in our last T"N) ' P .J I advertisement are all in. Perfect' beauties every one of them. Such as will pro- - f J Within.it your feet are never encased in faithless leather. Among all the U J H ! M p tect you from the cold weather predicted for this locality. You have realized be-- . - II fore this, perhaps, that your underwear's a little lighten weight. We carry the U ordinary, useful arts there has besn no greater progress than in Shoes. The pro- - y ivi o heavier weights, all styles, sizes and prices. B;g assortment all around. The - ft Wraps, Cloaks and Jackets for 8 gress has been practical. Shoes are better, more scientific in shape and cheaper. iZ, g o o The used-to-b- e shoe merchant hasn't found this out. And neither have some I I Women and Children 1 ii would-b- e moderns. Ignorance is in the saddle in many and many Shoe businesses. A r i g 8 A : 6 . g Plainly perceiving this we pat capital, brains and energy in our Shoe business, f i fl g Absorb the attention of visitors to our Cloak Department (second floor take ele- - o ' - h it g vator). The display in this department surpasses all previous efforts. Our Cloak 8 and now you take out the best regular Shoe for the least money, plus grace in f . . v 8 man did the grand while in the East this year. Bcught everything in siht. That's 8 8 . h why we're enabled to show such a lame variety. & g shape and ease in service. Don t overlook this important department. g , irf ' C h h t '! r. - .. ; I Via Carry Everything Else, From a Pin to a Cook Stove. You Know Where We fire. ' ; ; . I I W. H. Rowe, Ass't. Supt f iVl I I T. G, WEBBER, Supt. I ... ,. -- ; 'y : ' ..- - ..... , : ' y. .... . - . .- - y |