| Show UNDA UDAY iM DAY Y MORNING APRIL 17 1921 1927 THE THE SALT LAKE TELEGRAM 7 9 IC JOYRIDE AROUND J THE WORLD Copyright 1920 by the tho Wheeler Wheel Syndicate Inc WITH DOR OTHY Worlds World's Highest Paid Woman oman Writer r Sa s hour twenty t trip ip from Seoul The earlier part of the thele theley le ley is through the beautiful moun- moun region of Korea a country of and iI vales vales- and silvery streams fd m little le villages of tiny mud walled es with enormous overhanging lied hed roots roofs roos that mal make o them look looka a 1 bunch of mushrooms half hate hidi hid- hid i in the hollow of every valley and the little mountains turning green greeni 1 with i the millions of pine trees the Japanese have planted on onI I to take the place of the forests he Ko Koreans ns had ruthlessly i Tri the car window you see a never ig 19 panorama that enchants your stately Yan Tan Bans nans in their pink blue and green and lavender sills silk silkier ler ier Hubbards taking the air the i they puff on their two foot men in mourning wearing such colored hats that they are in them women with their green coats oats over their heads with empty sleeves flapping in the myriads of half naked children ng about bout tiny cows with such of fagots and little pine dies ches lashed on their back that can n hardly see the animal at all patches t of rice fields and acres leres of ginseng growing under ar- ar ro-er ro yer er which matting is placed to ct ct it from the sun for ginseng is not t valuable export of Korea It v favorite cureall of the orientals rs Is so costly that the they have a ab arb rrb rb b which says in in effect that thatis thatis ms is no disease that ginseng will willur ur use but that it is better t to die dieLt Lt take ke it for you ou will never nev r be beIgh beigh beigh paying spaying for the remedy nwe erwe came to the flat plains of h huria ria a cold gray gra country that leak bleak eak with winter and showed of fields of stubble of stalks iRE IRE RE HADES CANNOT HARM huria is as big in area as Ger- Ger Jand nd France combined It is fertile and ha has oil wells c coal l fields and looks exactly like t Dakota except that the houses the railroad track arc are made of I Instead Of f wood and have either walls brails of mud around their little 3 oT or else are fenced in with mats 1 n cornstalks to break the wind h b cuts like a knife as it comes comess s the endless plains Everybody dressed dressed in thick quilted fur lined c j its ts and at every station men Ions Ong g guns offered for sale all ajl sorts 1 one e venison enison and pheasants and anda a pd d half a dozen kinds of birds Ie names ames I did not know t the e dining car we had a wonder- wonder I 1 of nine courses perfectly td fat with two or three different of game on the menu and that Epst c cost t 60 cents but we ate with If Chat that chattered so with col cold l they perform their office of for the cars were unheated A tin tiny stove in one oner r f the corridor of a coach was vas sed to make sufficient heat h hTa a good chromo of a a. fire would g gWen given en quite as muc much warmth a ag and g git t. t we slept in our clothes even ir boots well knowing that if we got them off we would never be beto beto to get them on again with our ouri i fingers on a Manchurian railroad lw ver an impossibility anyway lS l'S ise at every station there is such roar i-ciar such yells and shrieks and outcries as make you think that I glutton has broken out and the i have hae got you and your fears 1 allayed allayed when you look out the theoN ow oN and see dozens of armed solf sol- sol f apparently holding the fort Ina in ina a a of an overwhelming mob only after you have spent the with your head under your pil pil- au and d the cold sweat of terror beig be- be 19 ig your marble brow that you tain taro that your terrors have been aught that aught that the uproar was noth- noth rut but the vendors of hot roasted nuts and tea crying their wares t that at the government has a big Ing ng army that it doesn't know PO to o do with so 00 it parks it out id Iii the railroad stations aye awe ye been told that in extreme fin UTI regions the missionaries find to describe hell as as a place low and sleet where sinners sit l 1 id idon on blocks of ice and and- shiver g gh all eternity They say that if described it as a burning sizzling if of fire all the natives would want Ito it I shall always think of ofIn len In n as a cold hell a place where snow now crunched under your feet i the wind cut like daggers j y the thc cold old pierced to the very w of your bones where even even the thein thein in in iF the hotel was clammy and you red d over oer a handful of ot fire and andas Was das as no warmth in youLAND you LAND OF FURS tr weird place is Mukden sting ting really of two cities an old built centuries ago by Tartar tribes and a new city outside of this wall by the Jap- Jap t ho practically rule Manchuria do Korea s new Japanese city is raw and made of brick houses two or tories high It looks exactly a 3 boom town in our own West t that the streets are thronged uge IL men in lon long wadded fur furg g garments and with dark forg for- for g j faces These are the de- de ants of the wild Tartar tribes o overran China nearly years i Ido do dp of the ol old city walls the theare are very narrow and are lined little dark hov hovels ls of houses louses that tones tores in front and whose goods law low into the filthy streets Even does There are many fur with the most gorgeous pelts fairly charm the money out of pocket soft pocket soft sables and gorgeous and fox and a little gray grayel grayel grayel el skin no bigger th than n your is as soft as down Trap- Trap f om the far north are hawking skins satins about from door to door ou may buy at prices that make Ut your furrier at home into the their x ir r class among profiteers Be- Be meat hb-meat shops hang long strings Id ld 2 turkeys and pheasants with us ns plumage and wild ducks and ands s Ls s and deer and all sorts of ofIn Kiln Kin In fact game Is cheaper than thanK K re I are no sidewalks Everyone fn In n the narrow nan streets and as paddle In their felt soled sh shoes es 1 h the icy lolly lob of mud you bonder onder that Manchuria is the thea a home of ot the influenza germ tn women dress almost exactly PL that you marvel how they tell tellI J I ch h. h i. i sex sex they th y belong Everyone Everon quilted clothes fur lined and capped and everyone is filthy l I 0 A Manchuria N S 4 i f I t r pyM I 9 r Y f f I w wt r Ic 3 4 M i f t n y wi y t o. o t 4 t a e J I If t rat iR r q tr s a sI f r 3 o v r s se I r t I e ir vi f s sf r er rc V C y ky i HA- HA The Th Chinese se I i M s s 4 r k fit v R ColdS e I 1 rs 1 ro I 4 r rI t I i m f t ti f f t 1 1 s S V Jl Block house great wall wail of China looking beyond beli belief f. f Their faces ure begrimed with the dirt of ages Apparently Apparently Apparently Ap Ap- no one ever bathes from the day of their birth to the da day of their death and I dont don't blame them I wouldn't do it either Jf if I lived In Manchuria WHERE THE THE RULED Manchuria is named from the Manchu tribes which originally lived in tents and caves in this country These wandering tribes of barbarians were conquered and formed into a confederation by Later on they overran China and chus chu's grandson seized the Chinese throne in 1644 and inaugurated d the dynasty that reigned in Pekin until it ended with the beginning of the Chinese republic in 1912 The most interesting thin thing in Mukden Mukden Muk Muk- den is the tomb of ot this old Manchu Uk l chief and we had a wild ride it Ina in ina ina a little carriage with galloping horses across the snow and through a Chinese Chinee- graveyard full of little mounds The tomb is built in a beautiful beautiful- of old pine trees It is grove surrounded surrounded surrounded sur sur- rounded by a high wall dull pink in color with great has bas relief of dragons of green porcelain upon it There are four wonderful gates of many stories ornate affairs painted in blues and yellows and scarlet Within the i inclosure in- in l closure is a great walk on either side of which are crude stone statues of of I horses elephants camels and other animals like those at the approach to I the Ming l tombs Here and there thereabout thereabout about the ground are detached pagoda pagoda pagoda pa pa- goda shaped buildings red lacquered and brilliant in in colore color We e climbed the wall and looked down on the big hillock under which the old chieftain is buried but more interesting even than that was the irregular pile of earth that marked the theline theline theline line of the battle of Mukden for here was was- fought the culminating battle In Inthe inthe inthe the Russo-Japanese Russo war Driving through the old cit city we stopped at the royal palace from which the chief started forth to conquest conquest conquest con con- quest and il in which he died It Is untenanted un untenanted un- un tenanted now and falling into ruin a bleak cold barn of a place with no furniture In it except in the throne room roam There still stands the chair In which used to sit the Lord of Heaven and Earth who had the power of life and death over millions and for the small sum of 25 cents the official who was showing us about kindly turned his head while I reposed in it and tried to imagine how it would seem to be a potentate with humble courtiers kowtowing kow kow- kowtowing towing before me In their day the were the greatest little looters in the world and there was a time when this old palace was a treasure house of peach blow 1 f j T I t i i 5 t g at Mukden palace L O Y t I rN A. A k Fa r 1 4 y T r East mausoleum Mukden Of l T china and and hawthorne vases and pottery pottery pottery pot pot- tery of the Ming ling dynasty and carved Jade and lacquer and all that was fine and beautiful of the arts of the orient but these have all now been sent to Pekin to the museum and the palace is empty of all save the pigeons that flutter through the barren rooms and nest in the place place which was once the abode of kings GLIMPSE OF GREAT WALL From ITom Mukden we went to at which we arrived in a half congealed congealed congealed con con- con con- state after a night and a day in a a. a cold storage sleeper is a prosper prosperous us hustling hustling c commercial r i l city with many handsome foreign concessions concessions concessions conces conces- I for in every ery Chinese city a place is specially set apart in which foreigners foreigners foreigners for for- eigners may live and where each is supposed to be under the government I of his own country I confess however however how how- ever that my chief joy in was Great wall of China the fact that the hotel was steam m heated and I never expect to see anything anything anything any any- thing again as beautiful or appealing g as the steam radiator with which I Imade Imade made intimate contact and from which h hn I had to be pried loose even to go on 0 on onto n to Pekin As the winter season was setting hi in and ev every evry ry day bitter weather was expected ex ex- expected we we e were advised to go at oneto once one to see the great wall of ot China if w we e wanted to see it at allAnd all And when you OU go added our adI advisers ad ad- I put on all the clothes yo you ou ouI u I. I have got and all you can borrow an anthen andI and d I then s sOme slime me I Which we did and still It was no not t enough In the cold gray dawn of a winters winter's s morning we tumbled out of our warm want l beds at the Hotel des Wagon Lits swallowed d a cup of scalding tea an and d what little breakfast one could choke chok e down at that ungodly p. p hour hours o eo tucked in our rickshaws an and l f fare red d forth on the great adventure that probably probably abl ably everybody has dreamed of taking ever since the they were school children Early as it was the streets were al already already already al- al ready full full coolies coolies going to their work barbers shaving their customers a at al altheir their little open air ail shops in full public public public pub pub- lic view hosts of pe people eating at littlecook littlecook little littlecook cook shops long trains of camels starting starting starting start start- ing out laden with goods to to be carried across the mountains into places place t tAt At the railroad station after much bustle and confusion we got our place places in the car and started on our eighty eighty- six mile ride straight up into the mountain over over er a ro road that is a a marvel man of engineering and andis is almost almost the only one in China that was hunt built by the Chinese themselves without t any any ny foreign foreign foreign for for- eign help The scenery was beautiful and interesting in interesting interesting in- in for th the Chinese not net only onh I built the great wall to keep out the horde of barbarians from the north but each city built a separate wall behind behind behind be be- be- be hind which to defend Itself from its neighbors On the way to the great grea wall you ou pass pass' numbers num rs of these lesser walls so that the whole country is divided Into a sort of irregular chess board About noon we arrived at a little wayside station near which is thought t to to- tobe be the best view of the the wall The station Is a little room one-room affair a concrete box that felt as if It had a temperature of about a million degrees below zero There was no possible way of making an any fire so so in this blasting cold we ate our cold lunch before fore starting up to the wall At this place there is a little narrow narrow narrow nar nar- row mountain pass that is the only connecting doorway for hundreds of ot t s l d e eo o miles mlles between Mongolia and and China China The road looks like the bed of of ora a mountain mountain mountain moun moun- tain torrent it Is so cover covered d b by great boulders of rock and and- threading its almost imperceptible path donkey donke trains and camel trains were here making their toilsome wa way as the they have done for thousands upon thousands of or years With ic icy feet that c clumped as we walked We followed we-followed followed ed this path flattening flattening flattening flatten flatten- ing ourselves from time to too t tune time against the walls of of- granite tol to-et to let to t. t a caravan go b by and shivering more and more as we climbed higher and higher and the wind swept with an icier blast across the snow covered Mongolian Io plains Then suddenly we came out opt on a ai i little open space and the w will wall burst upon our view with all its breath taking ta taking taking ta- ta king majesty majest Over hills bills and valleys following evet every s sweep seep of the contour of the ground as far as the eye could reach it bent and turned in vin sinuous lines like some great gray prehistoric serpent r It is fifteen hundred miles long andin and andI 1 I in some places where it spans gr great groat t valleys as s much as four thousand feet above e sea level and it is wide enough t to drive an automobile on Every few hundred yards there ther-e is a great stone block tower that was a guardhouse in which the soldiers lived lied and from rl m I whose top they kept ceaseless watch I and these were so skillfully arranged that there was no foot of the wall wail that it t was possible to approach unseen The wall is built of cut stone and brick and is still sun In pretty good Jr r although h it was built ye years rs before be- be b be before fore Christ S Talk about modern engineering g teats feats They pale into insignificance before this when you remembers the transport transportation situation in those times and that not only had every bit of material of which the wall wan is c fi- fi to bo be brought hither b by h power or on donkeys or camels but that hat in these barren wastes and mountains mountains mountains moun moun- even the food food for |
