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Show THE SAUNA SITN. SAUNA, UTAH a SCOTT WATSON HEN milady steps out in all the glory of her new raiment and takes part in the annual Easter parade, let not in re man make caustic remarks about women being slaves to fashion and unhappy unless they are clad In the dernier cri of fashion. For there was a time when man himself went In for gaudy display of wearing apparel. In fact, a review of mens styles through the ages, such as was given at the recent style show for both men and women, staged in Chicago by the National Association of lltetail Clothiers and Furnishers and the Fashion Art League of America, showed that It has been jonly within comparatively recent times that he has been content to wear such sober garments as !the conventional black and leave It to his mate to be the bird of fine feathers In the household. A pictorial review of men's styles, such as was presented by J. Frederick Schafer of Chicago before a convention of the International Associa By ELMO tion of Clothing Designers in Cincinnati not bo long ago, reveals the fact that mens styles have, after the First century A. D wore a primitive sort of trousers, which were rather tight and came down only to the calves of the legs. The Roman paenula, worn from the Second to the Fifth centuries, was a garment, probably a development of the toga, which dropped cape-lik- e down over the head and fell in folds In front and behind. The tunic replaced the toga for the reason no doubt that It was simpler and allowed greater freedom of movement. This Is an example of the way, in which mens clothes have varied from time to time to conform to their chief interests.- - When action and fighting were their principal activity, their garments were simand short, but when security ple, loose-fittin- g and idleness predominated, their clothes, in the earlier ages, were long, iull and cumbersome, and later very tight, necessitating short mincing steps and dainty movements. The clothing of men in central and western Europe shows the Roman Influence with variations, characteristic of their times and their race. In the costume of the Frankish citizen (No. 4), worn A. D. 400 to 600, may be seen the familiar tunic, but the sleeves are gathered at the wrists, there is an embroidered girdle and embroidery at the bottom of the tunic and short trousers are worn under the stockings. A cloak (No. 5) fastened at the right shoulder with a clasp completes the costume. From the Eleventh to the Thirteenth century clothing such as shown If anything, been even more changeable than womens. At first, especially In warm climates, men wore clothing (if any) not bo much for protection as for decoration. The gentleman, whose portrait is shown above (No. 1) and who lived nbont 10,000 B. Ci, had for his costume what some unknown poet has described thus: Both the Kin and his people were black at ihoea Because that the climate wu torrid; And all that they wore was a riny through the nose, And a patch of green paint on the forehead. i But paint and crude bits of Jewelry, put on to frighten their enemies, to Impress their neighbors or to woo their sweethearts, are not properly clothes, so the first real article of clothing that marks the. beginning of mens styles was the sim.When warmth and modesty ple breech-clou- t. began to be consideration in how men should dress, he met the situation by using animal skins, thrown across one shoulder and fastened with a 'thorn under the other arm. thus leaving the fight ing arm free to wield a weapon. And It Is more than likely that the favorite skin which he wore was the brilliantly striped tiger pelt or the attractive spotted skin of the leopard and that his woman had to be content with the less conspicuous peltries. The next step forward as when man discovered that fibers stripped from trees and felted together In some crude way made an adequate (substitute for skins, even though it must have been somewhat scratchy. But somewhere back ,in the dim vistas of time he learned the art of 'weaving and the sister art of dyeing so that he began to make handsome, durable and fine fabrics from cotton, flax, wool and silk and to color them. The Lydians "gave to mankind the famous Tyrian purple, which became the badge of royalty and the ancient Egyptians added their bit to dress decoration. About 100(1 B. C. these people were wearing a (No. 2). a long, garment called the straight hanging, rather close-fittin- g garment, 'both with and without sleeves, which looked 'something like the modern kimono. The ancient ' without tubes , Wliat a year lor list erring! Don9i lie left out . PRESIDENTIAL YEAR! other Politics the lot! the new, self-contain- ed the Atwater Kent 37. Batteries cant run down for there are no batteries. The house current costs only a fraction of a cent an hour. And the Full-visio- n Dial, which you read at a glance I How swiftly and surely and clearly it brings in your station! cabd The modern, inet is no larger than a childs suit case. The price is compact, too because public demand has per mitted us to effect amazing economies of manufacture. The program you cant afford to miss ia EVERY NIGHT. Listen with the Atwater Kent 37. Youll seel A. C. set Remember Twenty-fou- r votes for Underwood four years ago? Remember how you said the thrill of that one convention repaid many times the price of your radio set? Remember what you missed if you had no radio or a poor one? This year radio is playing a much bigger part. Both parties are preparing for a campaign inside American homes by radio. No. 13 and reflect that if their ancestors were members of Capt John Smiths Virginian colony Tunney is signed to fight twice. they would be wearing Just such an outfit os Man! What a year by radio. that It consisted of a doublet with long overAnd the programs NOW. Tosleeves hanglpg from the shoulders, padded Tomorrow night! The headnight! velvet colored breeches fastened with points of or cloth, collar and cuffs of starched linen, silk liners of music of politics of stockings fastened with garters tied in a bow, everything are on the air NOW. felt hot with embroidered band and plume, low Dont put off buying your new shoes tied with laces and gauntlets of soft Atwater Kent A. C. set until the leather. Or if they trace their ancestry from last moment before the conventhe patroons of New Amsterdam they can see In tions. Enjoy the wonderful things Shades of radio No. 14 how that ancestor dressed. brings now. When summer sack coat of today! If comes the simple youre ready. they can claim among their ancestors a signer of Get the set thats always ready is the Declaration of Independence it probable that he wore such an outfit as Is shown In No. for a convention, a concert, a fight or a frolic the modern set the 15, when he stepped forward to sign that Immortal Model E Radio Speaker $26 document The collarless coat was plain, hut the set that has changed everybodys Radio truest voice. All parts protected ornamentation was provided by a waistcoat of conception of radio that is going against moisture. Comes in a variety of contrasting color, a white neckcloth with a into far more homes than any beautiful color combinations. on velvet cuffs tucked frill the into vest, starched Atwater Kent Radio Hour every Sui ay night on 23 associated stations the coat slee.es and shirt sleeves made of soft satin-finishe- three-butto- n in No. 6 was worn. The upper garment, a descendant of the tunic now known as the pour-poin- t, had become so short that finally it was Just about long enough to cover the body. The lower garments were tights, made of an elastic material, similar to the modern Jersey. If the costume of the Frenchman of this period is com- - . paratlvely simple, his German brother (No. 7) more than made up for it with his display. Although the coat of this German burgher of the t Twelfth century is long, it Is divided front and back up the body so as to drape on each side when he was riding. With a wealth of handsome materials to choose from, he adorned himself with this costume with its different patterns of goods used on the right and left sides and the ornamented sleeves and cuffs. The costume of the French workman of the Fourteenth century (No. 8) shows not only s development of the combination hood and cape which the French called and the capuchon German .kapuze, but it also shows the increasing tendency, to tightness of fhe trousers. Heretofore not ko much attention was paid to this article of dress, but as the tunic became shorter it was necessary to pay more attention to having a sightly pair of nether garments. The tunic was red, held in by a black girdle, the .hat was black, the capuchon green and the trousers were gray and continued to the teet with leather sewed on the soles. So with this array of colors, the French workman of 500 years ago presented a decided contrast to the blue overalls tmd Jumpers of the workman of today. The German patricians costume (No. 9), com mon about 1500, is an example of the ermine-trimmetunic which was slipped over the head. It wns also a gay array of colors the tunic emerald green, the leather belt red. the hosen orange red and the shoes and hat dark green. Not quite so fussy," more artistic, hut equallj gay as to color is that of the Venetian youth (No. 10) with his brick red enp and tigats. hh gold collar clasp and necklet and his crimson velvet cape lined with blue brocaded velvet The young Englishman of the Sixteenth century (No. 11) improved upon this costume with ids striped trunks of Spanish style, his long, pointed shoes his corslet of leather or steel, his scalloped collar, and the Jaunty feather In Ills hat. Although the English style' in trunks appears gay enough It was mild in comparison to those affected In Spain where ,hj fashion was so extreme that In order to hold the trunks in shape the young Spanish swells stuffed them with wool or cotton. Sometimes they extended nine inches from the body and were slashed lengthwise from top to bottom, with Insertions of contrasting colors in steel-trimme- d Greeks luipnAed upon this costume somewhat with their simple tunics (No. 3) fastened at the Ehoulder and held In at the waist with a girdle. The Romans, however, went in more for the long, loose and flowing robes, and the toga of the high-clas- s Roman was dear to his heart It was ol ample proportions, as much as 18 feet wide and ianded with purple to Indicate high rank. Adjusting the toga was no simple matter. It was circular, folded almost in half and then draped Id a formal and elaborate fashion. Although the Romans despised bifurcated garments (which is a polite way of saying pants") as being the mark of slaves, Roman soldiers, The Swedish gentleman of that the slashes. period (No. 12) wore a costume in which th clothes designers of his time used a great deal of imagination, as witness the puffy red and white striped sleeves on the yellow surcoat, the red trousers, the white vest and gauntlets and olive ssh, a brown hat with a plume and swaga starched Eliza-- , gering soft leather boots,-anbethan ruffed collar. Americans who may be inclined to laugh at the foregoing costumes may well take a look at cambric, having frilled extensions which fell down over the hands. Mens clothing in the early days of the Re On Dial Receiver listed u U. S. P.lt 1,014,001 ATWATER KENT MANUFACTURING COMPANY 4700 Wiasahickon Avenue A. Atwater Kent, President Philadelphia, P The Cream of the public was a combination of survivals from the foppishness of colonial times and of the simple more or less standardized suits of today. The costume (No. 1C) prevalent during the first half of the Nineteenth century Is coioninl In Its knee breeches, stock tie and cocked hat, but the coat Is a promise of the type of such future garments that were to be adopted. Over in France at nbout the time of the French Revolution the. type of coat known as the swallow tail or pen point (No. 17) became popular and it was also. worn in England and the United States with a few modifications. The notch In the lapel of this coat marks the origin of the notch In the collar as we know It today and in other respects it was a logical forebear to the costume shown In No. IS. Here Americans definitely assumed long trousers and this Chesterfield outfit wns popular with the good dressers of 1840 to 1850. The next period In American mens clothing is shown in No. 19, a typical example of mens styles at the time of the Civil war. Showing the influence of the Victorian era when beauty was Tobacco Crop Paul Waner, oted MostValuable Player in 1927 National League, Says Luckies Do Not Affect His Wind f When I first started to smoke I was anxious to find a cigarette that would give me pleasure without taxing my wind or irritating my throat, I soon discover edLucky Strikes. I am very fond of the excellent flavor of these cigarettes and they keep my throat clear and do not affect my wind in the least. taboo and ull that was ugly In houses art was allowed full development, this costume brings us down to the It is a protest present age of standardization. against tills standardization which causes the uprising of such freak styles us that shown In No. 20 the piiHnt-lmlroyoung sheik with ills slashed, trousers. Ids eoat. extravagant cuffs, gaudy shirt, snsfi f you are inclin'd to belt and sport shoes, laugh at costumes v(. 1 to I'l think Imw the wearers of those costumes would laugh at No apparently und furniture and tight-fittin- No Throat L1328. The American Irritation-N- o Tobacco Co Inc. Cough. |
