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Show TIIE SUXDAY HEllALDrSUXDAY.. DECEMBER 13, 1223, l'AGE TWO I'wff K;ni"fn toileviiort 8.4 -ttfn ir C . 77f7 - . ? s - - . . i . Crown lt i ( nji h - t id aiiit!lr loi'i etl-- Co!'?- - .- .4 r- - te S - - - -- 'WlM. i far , -'- Si 4V :MiJ; SJ mi I I z . ( .'. -- y.-l 'f'4'- h TV . '' 'r. . '"' - ;."r ; v,cs r:' j gr TV - At Hmiimmmmis i - ( . ? - 1 " ... -- , i. "u, - ' , ... j . i Tueorffltefls Cleranly, - Advisory Director of the " .ex . i d N'V.n-- Beauty &minln.ir U& tfcqjft, of. .Gtrltur J'esrlg. A Core, Resembiins String SmiH Pearl, hrHeerrtcdln'tSTOtw, MTiich, in a Few Months, Builds an Uuter She) of Keal Pearl Arosad It, as Showa lSelow. Solon in London and Confidential Advisor to ? Many Wealthy Gem Consols aeurs,'. , Exanininf a Rope of Pearls, Sapphirea and Diamonds r . Ir ; 4 U an-- 1 Indianj Prince. Are Really , . r r - Their .Own. ' , Belonging1 1 I 1 r rean .,Tlieir Brilliants' . - iv 9 And Why .Experts Are Now Needed to vTell Fair Jewel Owners WHeii r At w & i xmsv&m- X IV. v ill .. ;, . it r jr I 4 ' A .t s. ,?' .. j' .. - ' . - ''' ; -- ' 1 " - s , ' . 1 f S. - V' , . w Pwfesisor Paul F. Kerr, of the Depart. lyr' ment-ofoiCflhimhia UbL-"Mir.fjriUpKy Professor Kerr, who has in- -, versity. vented a test to distinguish genuine pearls from their counterfeits, had this to say about' synthetic gems:. . y-"Imitations are bo clever, and there are of them; that Is Lkely that 'made' jewels have found their way into private collections, where they are accepted at their face "value. Jewelers today use every precaution, yet some of the synthetic jewels now being produced would deceive the most experienced eye on' a first inspection. But there is no imitation which ean-nbe detected." One piece of heavy artillery evolved by the -- scientists is vented by Professor A. J. Moses, of Columbia de Pcyster digw dollars witn whicn Eegc;!e . .,,.,. ' he proceeds to buy a ruby pendant for his beautiful bride, he has every reason to believe that he la .presenting her with a gem of tho first ::. water. the elitterinjr bit of flame-lik, He purchases beauty from a reputable jeweler, who in turn has bought it from a trustworthy Importer. The importer buys his gdbds abroad from firms that are above suspicionf Everybody who has looked at the jewel has exclaimed about its perfection. So Mr. de Peyster presents it to his bride and she is 4elighte4- - i e- (1 - I ot V si ..V-..- ' it 4 lIElf young Mr. ! - ; - ' In the gravity test the culture pearls, of course, sin k to the bottom of the ctainer. But the test has not won lastiag victf S Mjirts'now s are ml hoar that fid a core to for the oyster build upon the exact t ' . of the gra'.'ity pearl '""'' Science already has w.iiVj i j th reported " ; pearl-maker- -- 1 J. yars to produce .The export then looks for "siik," through countless "f jf the lnstr,e found or I;' m penuine stones. If the one he is examining? i bows instead delicate .marklliifer ings, due to m!iny f.iirt zones of slightly - ent color,- he Snov.ij it to false In the sanie liibonitory where Professor Moses v.i... i tv. worked out his tost for pearls, over which the ba tie rages most relentlessly.' It is a simple metnod, depending upon the specific. grravity of tiie stones to be examined. a handful of pearls into a container filled with chemicals. If the pearls float they., are genuine but if they sink they are a the European Dansewe,. Wearing' a Siamese' Temple Costume of Synthetic Gems. Well-Know- j tfe .tj scheme by evolving the ''luonioscope," a lamp which focuses a ray upon the gem with the aid of a condensing lens. Each pearl is placed on a metal traj.at the bottom of a cup filled with olive or clove oiL The internal itructure is revealed in the intense light, andif it is formed ,by a nucleus, is at once apparent, Accordingly, the imitators, to deal-thdeciding blow, must find a core for their gems that not only weighs ,what the pearl weighs, but still looks like it as weul Experts declare that a tremendous effect Will Jbe produced Upon the battle between themselves Miss Marion De Yffler, . 1 " '.X v fi I ..: I ttr e Then sud d enly there wag a : change, akererby-het.-negaudyTtyles 'Spurious pearls be- -, by Paris and already popular in sponsored e to gan appear every-wherAmerica. Women who follow the styles are buy-- . They had the, battle between Jewelers and ir.gr more Jewels.than they can wear conveniently, lustre of the genuine1 ) 'Bracelets an old one... i.Marvelously nat- now cover not only their forearms, but and same the rich' beerf constructed and .have de- upper arms as wellA while five fingers of each tone. s i But tha exnerta alwavs knew. The :, hand are Waded with rmgs.- Immense brooches The secret had to do. and mammoth pins . are splashed over: gowns, .ques wrung a gat restrains her.So she wears 'I,. fereAt Or the light may show a cavity, no larger- - , thinW with the maclii,v.. v wnue snoe ouciues iaze wim jeweiss of the true pearl. And it with a saj.d dollar stone -. 'than tions a of certain Jappinpoint, but perfectly round. srtnetimes were caueht And the wearers 6f these gems, the experts say, wnljewerfaVd .pearly' pcrhapsr of perpetual This is a flaw that result from quick construes ',witFa We? anese pearl lrlnp for years, andat; is an object vas ient comparatively i desiring quantity, wil not be too particular about aunili'atlon.N CUT , m uon t a vno had hit clear. JNatUre, the quality of what they buy. Acccordingly, ,they vwoka ' ; may-bupon v the ingenious see a terrific influx of synthetic gems, and a rich Lrnidoii r-' ' of Musical Befowt -i Wi SIT: plan . T oysters, Layef letting harvest reaped by. imitators. :' . fcelyn make their pearls for has gone but that a time will come wheh 1 One of Her Word M t " J. jComeii' earing Star, ' T rnr..W f 'f . - i V " Hnlir W.V Rhfl Cn them! V i . Jmitators will succeed jn making stones wJiicK !, dlu1bT0hoTer S,ut1 the frS-" The real pearl is , no scientific test can distinguish from the; real Real and istinkuish Between the 11 s Sht about 3? ,555 formed by the oyster contretemps should eventuate, it Take" s by thing. If such arevolution neness m 'the Jewel market cover rough spots would mean a as S Genuine Pearls Sink to Having , Xijy, is a The synthetic ruby, for example, Test ' 1 the Bottom.. ' Expert k t is ' BKt!oscf pointmay be made for less than a dolThem, ing Itovkim an lar a karat, while the genuine incrdlible situstone may cost five hundred dolation existing: lars or more a karat. y: wherever jewels This would mean- - that a, collection are sold and of jewelry might be worth "a worn. million dollars or a hundred dolIt lis jtbthinff lars. It also, would mean that the Maiden Tiinn tvnn if ipwol aUn lc.t,uif rfdutl ACETYLENE t.w 0 betrton would be force cl to take its wares: 4 tc-tlon- i; poy-lfiinto., the theatrical districts and SRGR; 2.723 exTETRABROMIDEC i4t$ dispose of them for whatever was on one perts forthcoming from buyers wishing side and jewel to create an illusion of smmAur mrkers n the ; The effect upon private collee- nons wouia De .no Jess drast c. pt'nerl J CULTURE ...Tlus Experts since many persona, chiefly Europeans, sink tliclure that weir loruuie mio stones,, believing that they j flius are able to realize mansy ef the and quicker to- profits than by any other greater ETmstwlpch type of investment, are beantffu women more beauthe market 'on jewels nearly always being a risday making tiful imHV not he thi Tlirp!tBa dtnrioa cvAnr. H: ing one. ''..:,',.'?'"; ' borfy believea them to be, hut cleverly Miss Evelyn Laye, the London prima, dohna, ew science ai dqllara. Modern has a macnincent. tiara of diamonds and pearls Here Are Two Groups has riade it posiible.td construct rubies, sapphires, considered by many the most beautiful in the ot rearis KeftI pearls and otto jatfiious stories so cleverly, they Empire. Shebai its duplicate made, of svnthpt.ir and Synthetic. ' say that even merchants who have handled them and And she .'cannot ' Experts Can't Tell . diamonds, one culture pearls. ' ' for y'earai jre deceived. . irom the other. , distinguish One from Another by Looking: at Bogus tems are slipped Into private collections The great collection of Romanoff jewels, virtuThem with a Glass. Can Yont it and fire passed along as genuine. Jewelers,ally priceless, even now can be imitated' so clevtinally renlizine thev were likplv a fitrht a losinoin its shelL Bo the Japs gathered, oysters and erly for a few thousand, dollars, that only an ex M battle with the imiUtors, called in science as an '. t ,, made rough epota with pebbles. Then the oysters pert can detect the fake. 4 any. Ana now scientists hnve taken up arms ana . . As last as tney wort, we wiu worK faster," patlentlv set to worit coating me peonies wiui ; the warfare is ragjig, with laboratories all over America and Jturops as a base of operations on f here is no synthetic jewel that cannot be 3 v,' 5 a coated pebble bearing the same relation to the ona side hidden and on the other. artificially constructed oyster-bed- s v wiU be!" i Berlin?. , v One of the generals' of the scientific forces ia .. ,.. .... " . i i L . wel , - ll tlS11''"'" e, e - ' ha ' - -- ' . ft , : iv 'lf"; -- ' GENWNE. PEARLS : 9ocriro ICELAND SPAR o Q and rBROMOFORM PASLS . A . V: , 1 1 rAv 1 - i. s , es . tpi fit ' ''"''-o- ' v ? lTgV M KSfrfr k :ri . ;1 4rr! t24X - jr: tij-l- J.w |