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Show THE SUNDAY HERALD, SUNDAY, OCTOBER 25,1923. l- ' 4 v- - : oWt the - Champions- - of - theExuberaht--J '"THE By WINIFRED VAN DUZEB. figure is doomed, and the bed-il- I Diana and Why Their Battle Cry Has Caused Such Alarm. tiie Downfall of the ; Predicting fren- - at sjrt. yno'A-Ar- e "fine-look-? troas lines of the . an. due for enthusiastic are lag giri," Such at least ii the word that has gone out from the camp ef a very determined group ' of beauty experts. ) ;. , y V 'Nature,' they tay.-rna- l denied long: enough. There i a definite movement back to eurvet and curia. The bean al. "Bean-Pol- e -- .,- ,. : ba pole Diana .' MUST rlv to the exuber-- vit X .." 4 X-- -- We :V America at .,. $ , Fine tiample of the ' v ;- . xx- - ' f ' , , " s ? J 1 - . "T: hlx-- s 7 ? Wi I J ' . ' 1 -- : r ' ,M . i i 4' i 4 and Juno.? Indeed, it Is declared; she has already given way. Take the case of that Atlantis City Tournament of Beauty, where most of the judges frankly admitted that they wouldn't even a lookjst m' Hiss glrV DoDDed-nalre- d Anpnier. Ana- u jay waaa horae. - 1 ToS Wulnef was anes a Cleopi Blra This Macedonian 6 . - oea-Bia- r, - admired when the late Lillian Russell was considered the most beautiful woman in the country, and Fay Templeton was one of the ruling favorites on "the boards. In her day no woman was to be truly good looking unless she was thought . .. 11 J it mp large. paasi: ousuer ana- exreMiona ot. su anrtA vpfA Tanrt.AH trt nr. that. t.lmA hv lanHa " i "" j x- -, to waa the hevdav of "Old Ironaldea." the heavily steeled and boned corseta which were ' dragged together to induce the fashionable tiny t waist line. Every bride of that period wjshed ' to boast that her bridegroom was able to span his first fingers and her waist with the tips-o-f (numbs touching. SChem corsets, according to physicians, were responsible for the weakling physique of women. With organ, squeezed togethef ana lorcea out oi snaps un' T- cry of "back to curves and' curls," whether mere sound and fury or not, has already brought an anguished protest from the champions of the present day "boyish figure. This, group la made up of idealistic sculptors, painters, physicians and health experts. t "It ha taken themedical profession thirty years to teach women how to eat daintily and sensibly," declared Penhryn Stanlaws, the celebrated painter ol women, . . .; "The modeni figure, which Is dainty and sensible, is the outcome of that long training. It would be an outrage to let it go back." Others take a more tempered vitw of what is likely to happen to the fetninina f ieure. Dr. Louis WelaAiller, physical director of the New Tork City Y. M. G. A., gives as his opinion that women never again will be either so, thin or so rotund as they havatueenl away from the y "The pendulum is swinging skinny type, said Dr. Welzmiller, "but it will not swing all the way to fat extreme." Among the definite signs of .the times which are causing Mr. JStanlawg and those who support his view to be alarmed, are the newest Paris styles, which are built for slenderer waists and larger hips, the announcement made recently by the Fashion Art League in convention at Chi- - L which sponsored certain positively- mid-eago, . 2 -- J ' -1TI Eastern modistes with flaring skirts : Then there is the alarming case of .Miss Fa? ' Lanphier, the newest ideal of beauty, who eama out of California to be nominated Miss America. by the judges at Atlantic City, ha is broader, taller and heavier than . haa been any contest winner of recent yean. Her proportions are almost identical with those of Venus rf'-Sv 'de Milo, accepted by ancient -hacme of Greeks as the perfection for shapely women, but considered too large for beauty during the past few yean. The latest winner of the" beauty crown weighs 188 poundseighteen pounds mora than did Dorothy Knapp, her predecessor of : four years tack. She is two inches taller than Miss Knapn or Miss Kath- - 1. . . 1 . - ' jT. - . -- 'j ret,,. - . to Hip. This, aaperwoav, ia j. Lost in tha Present Day ; . t a ai r "'I f ' ry ft". i- - v - 1 - - - j ' y,t- - .Silhouette" - f"J ' Suek as Has Been t'K ,f 7J " - .s x ' Espoused AH by . , J, the Last V ifor V. 8ereral - able Women - ? , ' -. fnt, :- . ,;t fv - t adjudged Amer ica' most perfect girt ; ( last year, presents the j . typical "boyish" figure- i' slender,, flat, almost angular, . tnougn aha dune to her curls. , Hits lanphier u ner exact opposite in the matter of figure. d and broad- She is . cnesveo. xier Tnu ut oouiparw" tively slender, being two inchest ' smaller that the measurement of 3 the Venus de muo, wnue nee curved hips are an inch and a half larger than those of tha Greek ideal' She is a Junoesqua 4 figure, a perfect example of the type called "matronly." And she is described aa an " , beauty.' whicK Ideal for If the beauty Iliss Lanphier stands is entirely unlike tha "boyish" figure, it also bears little resemblance to jthja llioux gluafjhat everybody i . "r f xK ,.f ' H 'IIi . . , , Mr; Stanlawt, "they wffl have to like burlesque queens. Roast beef, corn fritters, all the foods that haven't appeared on their tables for years will bf popular again. "But they will have to eat lone. : They will be obliged to cat in rooms by themselves, for no one will endure such disgusting exhibitions of gluttony! "Whv. thirty Tears aeo when painted a woman's portrait, I cat to take off ten or fifteen pounds to make it look rlgti i Row I paint women as they are 3 , "But I dont believe it Ii " ' yon want to find out what figures women will have, ask their "'y v doctors. Don't listen to their n . dressmakers!" I The fact remains that many hail 'Possible return of the buxom beauty With U I whoops of glee.- There are, to be exact, v . three classes who would like to sea the in( Ruts a' perpendicular figure, vanish and tha curved onfl Shirley Vernon Stage Beauty, Showing How She V take its place. lias Anticipated the Revival of Curls. First, there are the dressmakers who always favor a change any change on general prinwomen's clothes.. Women's charms have been adciple. Then there are the women vertised 'too much in the styles of the past year. ' ' have been curved and have remained so in spita And the time has come for women to play her . of dieting, rolling on the floor, walking,-dancintrump card in dress again the ability to lure and and standing on their heads. ,i swimming u-intrique more man by the subtlety of the na inira ciass is compoaeu oi V.ihfi tn i arm, the hint of a trim ankle beneath women"uj the degree A ninety admire Carta. flowing gowns!" . per -pouna ol fineness being calculated at so mucn iv.imen inev wem on za tnrow anntner nomn. in- The pert boyish bob, said they, is all through. slstersl Curls will take its place. Long, soft treses, Perhaps a fourth , Pael n tn head with maidenly modesty, while class should be added- ringlets cascadeover the ears. the corset makers, vimpossimsr ODjecwa we amsis ana outers of the) ThaVi opposing the now type of pulchritude. 6 jiecuon. i maintamea Mr.Stanlaws. "Women and she won't ut can't have curves with- - ' aci only - with the girly-gir1 getting a curve in , turn!" Nevertheless, one of "Queen" Fay Lanphlers the stomacn as well aa otlier places. -- The aily-- r taort rtriking features is her long,- - waving golden hair, which she dresses softly about her head, thing that will take H with ringlets escaping over her neck and ears. . curve out of the itom- .And Miss Adricnne Dore, of Los Angeles, ach is a corset And I iont believe girls will - the beauty , who was adjudged second to Miss wear corse tq. Certatnly they wont as long aa V hair in lone curia like Marv Pickford... Despite the apprehension, of the artists and they are doing boys' 3 tnembera-othe medical profession, there are pinworkl While they are many who declare that even though curves are doing boys' work they more or .less, I coming back there is nothing to worry about To ' J .must, , wear boys' clothes. quote Dr. Welzmiller again: "The pendulum wui woman at tha normal weight she Wouldn't a gtrl .with stoD for each . . i. : i curves looK ridiculous anouia nara xur uer uciku uui in boys' doth 1" . And that is said to be tha real reason for the t' ; 1 i But' say the fasli V i "back to curves" movement The distorted hour . C . A WHltllt l Mil (4 A &a Kim ' . going to take girls OUV ijk jl lluro, WV wmv 10 imw mm vuviv. vol- - boys' olotbesl are troinff .'to m ska I. awav front both bulges and angles. '. Ther want . u C auhtiety tae keynote ox f f nature ena wt os ZT, V' - m m g, half-reveal- ed "fine-looki- lj 4i A l -- I u 1 ' . 1 w'ZTil son. -- - 11 V Jv Vut:v!' ' - - re-o- l, t deep-cheste- f mi ' i , n who-alway- s i' 1 7 ' , 'sslalfi Lid s. l - , Practically Fashion, if,J fe. 1 t.. f- .'"jj" L ' i . . I k and Down j : h - - : ago. - ii M' Straight Up ' L- "queen" of three years f I" t - i' ' J Eigura.' Bed-Sl- at 'A " ' . Vi l - isimilsiir " -slightest provocation! v These, too, were the days Im before. the lamb choD and tT I pineapple diet became lash- onable, and when nobody' refused to eat candy, wore if rubber- undergarments , or I went in for strenuous physical training 1 I Are . those days coming "A r back! says "Perhaps N Fashion. But artists and I" "No physicians' say "If women want to look like burlesque queens," said - , , a ' 1 - ' - 1 . from Shoulder - , ' der their relentless grip, small wonder It was that Women fainted upon the. Above: Section of the Velasqnes .Venus, Which Shows the i. Celebrated Carving Line . f LlI y x t j 1 f Templet I' Btage - nineues wiu s , rigure That la g - . . y," . . 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