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Show .i' r& 'iM . 4i ,rf,i ,'t i. - . f J:- y.. iVl :?; - A JiM' r a A' k4 'I ! THE PAYSON flTRONTCLE. PAYSO. UTAH SAPIENS jOM tSie through Changes in His Costume Centuries leaving Mrs. Homo Sapiens to wear the less conspicuous pelts. Forerunner of Red Flannels. rus"V andelse-Xutt- L Mr. H. Sapiens made his next in the matter of new raiment step forward when he discovered that clothing :rT;ch M.l.ulv will array fibers stripped from trees and U, annual Easter- felted together in some crude aiway made an adequate substiruling p:uade. Tis tute for skins, even though it thus Master finery have been somewhat must in terms of its scratchy. But somewhere back in the dim vistas of time he learned wearers. not the art of weaving and the sister , why a for change art of dyeing so that he bit ot.'ut clothes (al, to make handsome, durablebegan and subject fine fabrics from cotton, flax, an appi'Prae f Easier time) interims wool and silk and to color them. masculine The Lydians gave to mankind eir us for 2 in-,'ct- ed ftf M !j - ment? Of course, its gt iuch a colorful subject ipX thus limited. For Mr. the famous Tyrian purple, which became the badge of royalty and the ancient Egyptians added their bit to dress decoration. About 1600 B. C. Mr. Homo began wearing a garment called e American, in his the kalasiris (No. 2), a long, straight-hanginrather ffejventional black, or his both with and garment, or blue serge, jiardized without sleeves, which looked in his gray or brown or something like the modern kimod business suit, is not no. The ancient Greeks improved g upon this costume some-tuarticularly what with their simple ,acle. (No. 3) fastened at the lets nics le, he sometimes shoulder and held in at the waist elf go in the buying of with a girdle. The Romans, hown ever, went in more for the long, ties which shout for and occasionally in loose and flowing robes, and the s Roman was toga of the ng on socks with varie-- i dear to his heart. It was of ampattern or shirts that ple proportions, as much as 18 feet wide and banded with puri bit startling, to say the But generally he keeps ple to indicate high rank. Although the Romans despised two latter items fairly bifurcated garments (which is a J hidden. In fact, about all polite way of saying pants) as of slaves, :pects to be in the Easter being the mark de is a sort of sober Roman soldiers, after the First jf-fag- close-fittin- g g, eye-fillin- at-D- high-clas- . t ground for gorgeous ninity on this day and to nee her loveliness and ance by the contrast be-- n and her habiliments just to prove that he make a color splash, if he wanted to do so, glance back through enturies to see what the dressed man of yester-- s wore. In other words, stage an Easter fashion it masculine model, de, forget for a moment dy and her finery. cn man first began to Sjj justify lame of Homo Sapiens and rect. clothes were about east of his concern. If he them at all, it was for pro-- n from the elements, not aornment. we have as the first man-- r "our masculine fashion rf ,the m ?Iived dusky gentleman Fgure No. 1 above. about 10000 B. C. tume was what some has described in and un-po- et this the king ,nd his people ere black as shoes "at thC c,imate was Sd hey aIhrhat 1 WaS 8 aPtatcl! of &reen r t Wre the nose, v rmehi 5rd liten 1 Paint on Uerns as paint put gS ighbor ffP'?ly' i on t0 .impress m Seises'') ort0tn'keeP t rinS a..' those P With a sweet- clothes, en mannuVrroperly t0 be a bit t was the perhaPs ssitv f i his rilr. "arrntb which dic- - 4 i Trn he f.eld h's ore u ;v. 01 ". ojr-e- , ! I t mr spotted acrss tfhrwn ,0r Xp ha US' ammal shoulder lfastened the Wlth other arm. Shting arna free ,he favorite skm his own, the roun1tin8 brdlantly attrac L0fr..the, leopard Kitten Twins Pose For Your Pleasure BY ELMO SCOTT WATSON wealth of handsome materials to choose from, he adorned himself with this costume with its different patterns of goods used on the right and left sides and the ornamented sleeves and cuffs. The Working Mans Costume. The costume of the French workman of the Fourteenth century (No. 8) shows not only a development of the combination hood and cape which the French called capuchon and the German kapuze, but it also shows the increasing tendency to tightness of the trousers. Heretofore not so much attention was paid to this article of dress, but as the tunic became shorter it was The Kitten Twins, as much alika as peas in a pod, pose obligingly for your needle. Embroider this plump, cuddlesome pair and youll have the gayest wall panel ever a panel that will be a delight In any room! Just single and outline stitch, in silk, cotton or angora Washington Developments that have taken place and are taking place in the fight Sees New precipitated by Alignment from the patroons of New Amsterdam you can see in No. 14 how that ancestor dressed. Shades of the simple sack coat of today! If you can claim among your ancestors a signer of the Declaration of Independence it is probable that he wore such an outfit as is shown in No. 15, when he stepped forward to sign that immortal document. The collarless coat was plain, but the ornamentation was provided by a waistcoat of contrasting color, a white neckcloth with a starched frill tucked into the vest, velvet cuffs on the coat sleeves and shirt sleeves made of soft cambric, having frilled extensions which fell down over the hands. Early American Styles. necessary to pay more attention Mens clothing in the early to having a sightly pair of nether days of the Republic was a comgarments. (That means pants, bination of survivals from the too) The tunic was red, held in foppishness of colonial times and by a black girdle, of the simple more or less standthe hat was black, the capuchon ardized suits of today. The costume (No. 16) prevalent during the first half of the Nineteenth century is colonial in its knee breeches, stock tie and cocked hat, but the coat is a promise of the type of such future garments that were to be adopted. Over in France at about the time of the French Revolution the type of coat known as the swallow tail or pen point (No. 17) became popular and it was also worn in England and the United States with a few modifications. The notch in the lapel of this coat marks the origin of the green and the trousers were gray notch in the collar as we know and continued to the feet with it today and in other respects it leather sewed on the soles. The German patricians costume (No. 9), common about 1500, is an example of the tunic which was slipped over the head. It was also a gay array of colors the tunic emerald green, the leather belt red, the hosen orange red and the shoes and hat dark green. Not quite so fussy, more artistic, but equally gay as to color is that of the Venetian youth (the drugstore cowboy of his day) with his brick red cap and tights, his gold collar clasp and neckwas a logical forebear to the let and his crimson velvet cape costume shown in No. 18. Here lined with blue brocaded velvet Americans definitely assumed as illustrated in No. 10. The long trousers and this Chesterfield outfit was popular with the young Englishman of the Sixteenth century (No. 11) improved good dressers of 1840 to 1850. The next period in American upon this costume with his striped trunks of Spanish style, mens clothing is shown in No. his long, pointed shoes, his cors19, a typical example of mens let of leather or steel, his scalstyles at the time of the Civil loped collar, and the jaunty war. Showing the influence of the feather in his hat. Victorian era when beauty was Although the English style in apparently taboo and all that was trunks appears gay enough, ugly in houses and furniture and art was allowed full it was mild in comparison to those affected in Spain where development, this costume brings the fashion was so extreme that us down to the present age of standardization. It is a protest against this standardization which causes the uprising of such freak styles as that shown in No. 20 the steel-trimme- three-butto- n d ermi- ne-trimmed century A. D., wore a primitive sort of trousers, which were rather tight and came down only to the calves of the legs. The Roman paenula, worn from the Second to the Fifth centuries, was a cape-lik- e garment, probably a development of the toga, which dropped down over the head and fell in folds in front and behind. The tunic replaced the toga because it was simpler and allowed greater freedom of movement. The clothing of men in central and western Europe shows the Roman influence with variations, characteristic of their times and their race. In the costume of the Frankish citizen (No. 4), worn A. D. 400 to 600, may be seen the familiar tunic, but the sleeves are gathered at the wrists, there is an embroidered girdle and embroidery at the bottom of the tunic and short trousers are worn under the stockings. A cloak (No. 5) fastened at the right shoulder in order to hold the trunks in with a clasp completes the cosswells shape the young Spanish tume. with wool or cotton. them stuffed From the Eleventh to the Thir- Sometimes they extended nine teenth century clothing such as inches from the body and were shown in No. 6 was worn. The slashed lengthwise from top to upper garment, a descendant of- bottom, with insertions of conthe tunic now known as the pour- trasting colors in the slashes. The Swedish gentleman of that period (No. 12) wore a costume in which the clothes designers of his time used a great deal of imagination, as witness the puffy red and white striped sleeves on the yellow surcoat, the red trousers, the white vest and gauntlets and olive sash, a brown hat with a plume and swaggering soft leather boots, and a starched Elizabethan ruffed collar. Now if you are inclined to laugh at the foregoing costumes, Mr. Homo Sapiens Americanus, take a look at No. 13 and reflect that if that your ancestors were members point, had become so short John Smiths Virginian finally it was just about long of Capt. would be wearing they The colony the to cover body. enough ' outfit as that. It an such lower garments were tights, just doublet with long made of an elastic material, consisted of a from the hanging oversleeves similar to the modern jersey. fasbreeches padded shoulders, If the costume of the Frenchof colored with "points" tened man of this period is comparaor cloth, collar and cuffs tively simple, his German broth- velvet linen, silk stockings er (No. 7) more than made up of starched with garters tied in a fastened his for it with display. Although embroidered with hat felt bow. the coat of this German burgher low shoes tied of the Twelfth century is long, it band and plume, and gauntlets of soft is divided front and back up the with laces leather. body so as to drape on each side Or if you trace your ances.ry when he was riding. With a patent-- young sheik with his haired trousers, slashed, coat, extravagant his tight-fittin- g cuffs, gaudy shirt, sash belt and sport shoes, of only a few years ago. Remember him? There haven't been so many outbreaks of this sort in recent years and today correct dress for men changes little from year to year. There may be some significant alterations in cut, fashions in color combinations and styles in accessories, but fundamentally correct dress does not change. On the whole its to pretty drab, when compared So the gayety of womens attire. to be they will probably continue in the of attraction center the annual Easter parade. But it has been worthwhile, hasnt it, to demonstrate, as this article has tried to do, what men 'acle le. Western Vewsp .per Union. Roose- to re- form the Supreme court of the United States show some phases not hitherto evident in political fights. One of these, I believe, portends important changes in the political alignment in this country. I have reported to you in these columns many times evidences of a growing trend toward a new political alignment and 1 can say now that nothing which has taken place since Mr. Roosevelt took his New Deal into the White House has given such impetus to ihis coming realignment as his proposal that congress pass a law giving him authority to name six more justices for the highest court. The information coming Into Washington these days shows very plainly that the Roosevelt court packing proposal is calling forth opposition from both of the major political parties. In other words, the opposition to the Presidents move is probably nonportisar. to a greater extent than any issue before the American people in the last 50 years. It will be remembered that the late President Wilsons proposal that the United States enter the League of Nations falls within that period of time and while there was both Democratic and Republican opposition to Mr. Wilsons program, it can not be said to have extended among the rank and file of the Democratic party, then in power, to the extent that Mr. Roosevelt's court packing project has permeated the lists of Democratic voters. I have endeavored to gain the views of many individuals respecting the prospects of a new political alignment but few of the men whose judgment is best politically are willing to make a guess. A considerable number of them say frankly that they are unable to guess. On the other hand, however, there was general agreement that Mr. Roosevelt, by suddenly tossing his court program into the lap of congress, has given momentum to a movement that for some months appears to have been simply marking time. There are certain facts on this phase of the court battle tnat appear obvious. They are influential and important as well. Take for example the fact that Mr. Roosevelt does not have the solid South backing of the for his proposition. Now, the Demos of a cratic party for the South has maintained century as a stronghold of its party. Indeed, in every presidential and congressional election, Republican politicians began calculating what the Democratic strength could be at the maximum by conceding 13 states to the Democrats. How different is the situation, now. three-quarter- One can go through the lists of representatives in congress from the South and find Different Mr. Roosevelts them rather even-Stor- y ly divided. One will find among opponents in this battle numerous senators and representatives who nave supported him on every other item of legislation that he has recommended to congress. Now, however, the story is different. Another interesting phase of the legislative situation is that the bulk of the true and constant liberals ii, the senate and the house have taken a stand against the proposition of increasing the Supreme court from nine to fifteen members. These two points do not represent all of the factors opposing the Presidents plan by any means, but I think it can be definitely said that if Mr. Roosevelt is defeated in his demand at this time, the two factors that I have named will have been the deciding influences. Having influences like those Just mentioned expanding in their scope, portends, as I suggested above, a in party afconsiderable shake-ufiliation of a lasting kind. I do not mean to say that all of the liberals who are opposing the plan and all of the Democrats who are opposing will refrain from the supporting Mr. Roosevelt on other issues in the future. 1 do mean to emphasize, however, that some of them will not return to the ranks of Roosevelt stalwarts. Thus it becomes rather obvious. I think, that the conservative ranks in congress will be increased to the extent that some of the defections, caused by Mr. Roosevelt's court proposal, result in permanent adherence to other philosophies. So It seems to me that the future holds the probability of a sharp line between radicals of demarcation How they will and conservatives. be identified and what labels they We are may wear is immaterial. due to have a conservative party and a radical party in this country and it shape and character is being molded under the driving fire of the controversy precipitated by Mr. p court-packin- could exhibit in the way of sartorial splendor if they wanted to hark back to the example of their ancestors. But suppose they did. Cant you just hear the Lfftle All Woman saying sweetly: ahead and go just dear, right, nu he a spectacle of yourself! speconly she wouldn't say President velt's plan g Roosevelt's demands for six more Supreme court justices. In a previous article 1 discussed the bitterness that has permeated the Supreme court Growing controversy. This Bitterness bitterness ii growing and no one can tell how terrific it is going to be. Yet, while the political leaders make charges and countercharges, it seems to me to be almost pathetic that the nine judges of the Supreme court must sit quietly by and say nothing. They can not defend themselves against the criticisms leveled at them by President Roosevelt and his associates. I have searched the records as far as 1 have been able and I have yet to find where any justice of the Supren.t court of the United States ever has expressed himself publicly on any occasion when the court was assailed. It Is a rule that Is strictly adherec to by the nine justices whom Mr. Roosevelt has described as the nine old men. Therefore, we s.'e them as the center of one of the greatest political battles in history, wholly unwilling to besmirch their dignity or their records by answering back. The recent fireside chat by Mr. Roosevelt was replete with innuendoes and inferences that the members of the court are quite incapable of doing their job; that they are living in an age that is dead and, consequently, unable to sde things as the rest of the country sees them today. Mr. Roosevelts speech at the victory dinner of the Democrats was purely politics and his fireside chat in explanation of his court program was 90 per cent politics. But the Supreme court Is not in politics. It strikes me as being almost a tragedy that these nine old men can not defend their honor and the;r record after a lifetime of service to the American people. I do not take much stock In the many tirades that have filled the air and columns upon columns of newspaper space that the present justices are incapable of doing their job. There is so much ui. truth, so many unwarranted concisions in those tirades that it amounts to a gigantic campaign that will mislead the people of the nation. Assuming that some of the justices are too old to do their job and assuming further that some of them may be too conservative to deal with present day problems, it yet seems to me to be an indisputable fact that there is nothing in life that can take the place of experience and the lessons thus learned. While Mr. Roosevelt was taking a vacation m the warm sunshine of Georgia, the case Able in behalf of the Spokesmen court packing was proposition ably presented to the senate committee on the judiciary. His spokesmen were Attorney General Cummings and Assistant Attorney General Robert Jackson. They did their job well. They met some of the most vicious questions from committee members that I have ever heard and they met them with a smile. True, opponents of the program among those senators were not satisfied at all with the explanations advanced by the Iresuientj That fact, however, spokesmen. does not take away from the two witnesses the credit that is due them. And thus for the first time we have what must be regarded as official arguments. 1 mean these arguments are to be distinguished from fireside chats and political speeches concerning the merits of the Presidents plan. Likewise, for the first time we have a frank admission that Mr. Roosevelts purpose in asking congress to give him authority for appointing six additional judges is to give him men on that court who will see present day problems as the President sees them. In view of Mr. Jacksons statements to the committee, we can look back upon some of the speeches made by New Deal spokesmen some months ago and can realize from them and present developments that Mr. Roosevelt had the general purpose of packing the court in mind for some months. This circumstance seems to explain also why the President and his advisors refused to accept the recommendation of Prof. Raymond Moley in 1934. At that time, Professor Moley, a member, if not the number one man, of the Brain Trust, urgently pressed for the New Dealers to go to the country with two constitutional amendments. He wanted the people of the country to understand that these amendments would permit enactment of certain types of laws. He thought that the congressional elections of 1934 was the time to present the questions to the voters. It must be said that Professor Moleys proposition was one of the fairest and soundest to be made. It is a method prescribed by the Constitution itself. C Western Newspaper Union. wool and Pattern its 5766 ready to be lined and hungl In pattern find a 5766 you will transfer pattern of a wall hanging Mt by 18 inches; a color chart; material requirements; il- lustrations of all stitches used; directions for finishing wall hanging. To obtain this pattern send 15 cents in stamps or coins (coins preferred) to The Sewing Circle Household Arts Dept., 259 W. Fourteenth St., New York, N. Y. Write plainly your name, dress and pattern number. ad- Feathered Cosmeticians Woodpeckers are surgeons; witli their strong, sharp beaks they cut down to the haunts of mischief-maker- s In the wood and extract them witn barbed tongues. But there are other, smaller birds dee, that haunt tree trunks in brown creeper, and nuthatch whose beaks are not stout enough for the woodpeckers drastic technique. These birds simply search crevices and crannies in the bark, prying and digging out insects and small cocoons that may be hibernating there. cosThey are skin specialists meticians. Science Service. winter-chicka- wx, let it dry-- end done! You'll have bright, sparkling floors In 20 minutes. wax Isnt slippery, won't check. Full satisfaction guaranteed it's an product. Apply your work i ar Faith in Right Let us have faith that right makes might; and in that faith, let us, to the end, dare to do our duty as we understand it. Abraham Lincoln. 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