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Show I ; 1904. OGDEN, UTAH, SUNDAY MORNING, OCTOBER 9, THK MORNING EXAMINER, if 'il if Parisian Modes In the Transition Stage i say Sept. ft-- The thrown Inlo a flutter genuine excitement thia when the cub appeared avenuee upon the boulevards and quipped wUh the new taxameter. Thla little liwiruinont, il la hoped, will put an end to the uncomfortable dlaputea which constantly urine lielween the tndicutea cabby nd bin fare. A dial and driver the due amount exact the the distance traveled. of mechanism, Tliunka to llilu pl the cabman accept the equivalent for the lime indicated on the dial without word of pruleal, and, more wonderd. ful Mill, thia Jehu aee.ma entirely deonly cab the ai pnrietore mand 73 per cent of the earning, leav23 cabman. fur the ing The Grand ITix Municipal la roimld-ere- d the signal for aociely'a return to town, and at preaent shooting purltea are the thing. A revolution lua taken place, and you inuat know that the aiuurt PartaleniK! ia very keen on aporta Suit. cicKant inundaiiiea powuduya leave the Iluka m.d moors to pay hurried vbtllB to town to Interview their d re Man inter; consequently the Hue de la iv.ix la quite bright and attractive these plenaant afternoon. After all, it la at IVirla in inner whol'y leant the hnlitiig plure for travetera and the happy hunting ground of all no I Ion In the mailer of clothes. At the ulelieia one eoilMantly lieura a W. give patron instating that Monsieur her something tenllv smart for the "something tlmf I alintl not see worn liy ever' American I meet." There I surely triumph l:i thia appeal of the KremT. women from the sartorial aha tus'e of the ehlc Anierlcnlne. whleh reullxea la quite up to her own aland-ur- d. t The gowned women the vmid over now know that the of a liiliet Ilea In the perfection r rut. which, unlike trimmiuge ami frill, It I linpowlble to copy. Therefore the PnrlHleime mnica forth thia month very simply rl reused. Every one admires the at mining rut of her coat and skirt, and the general public wonder liow it la Hint there la nothing to copy. The tactlce of thee. J'arlalanne are not difficult to appro-clnlShe ha few toilet at a time, but these are put up by an artist, for Bhe hua no faith in tli email dresa-uuikeven for the leu ambltloue frocks, bluuaea and negligees whleh ahe to truat to her maid, letting the prefer I in mortal twelve build her street and ceremonious continue. She also knowa aa well a her couturier that tha first autumn novelties are always overt rimmed and are worn by at rangers within and without lira gate of Parla Apropos of novelties, many startling Innovations are on the horison of the sartorial world. Not th least of them la a possibility of the return of the crtnullne, that cry of wolf which annually scares society. Certainly a of tha thing la quit visible In the fullness and shape of trimming put on tha new aklrts mads In many of the leading houses. We are alnwly. but surely, approaching tha crinoline vogue of the third empire minus tha hoop, and If th mater inla now employed were not PARIS, A of ao supple a nature the effect would be heightened. The new close lilted, pointed bodice are delightfully becoming when well cut, but are an Impossible atyle for the Inexperienced hand. The material for such a walat la arranged over a tight lilted lining and gathered upward, erosaing the bodice in irregular fold. Thia fullness run up in some models to an emplacement of laca or passementerie, while on others the crossed gathgiving erings IlnlHh below the bust,roraelel. ihiiiicw list the effect of a high Moat of these cron gathered waists have lucked up sleeves that end at the straight front are simply lu strike a more from the ahnuldera is a command from Paquln, and 1 am more and more convinced that he la the safest authority to whom to pin one's faith. will deilM the It is really amusing, the rivalries In one the couturier kingdom, for while houiie la strenuously advocating puffed sleeve another ia Just as stanch In adhering to graceful sloping ehouldcia, allowing the puff to start from Just above the elbow, which style la certainly more In harmony with the preaent movement of th chapeuu. One point upon which all the artists agree la that the sleeve full ties must terminate Just below the elbow. Another aal-lalie- I " ilew-rle- 1 I F , 4 U: la-a- exclu-nivene- t i. m ar I) i4 n r 1 sem-blan- d rs natlng what has been called our "bread basket" with rather less sever- PARISIAN ity. The straight front stays have been the means of making lots of women buckle to the task of a physical reform, and the latest departure hi thla line la the skipping exercise to bring about a trim and aylphlike figure. Thq Duehease d'Uxes, the uncrowned queen of Parisian society, has given a skipping luncheon where a rope skipping contest took place for a half hour before the function of the hour began. The ropes themselves were formed of exquisite silken cords, and the handles were very original In design and finish. Needless to say that skipping teas and luncheons will now be a winter fad In AUTUH5 WA1 XUS G0W5S. cauae of alarm In tha changing mode Is Ilia decadence of the straight front corset. The woman with too, too solid flesh la moat interested in thla development, fur the blesaed straight fronts out tha shoulder draperies to the very have brought her quite In line with her beat advantage. That all sleeve mod- svelte and graceful rival. There la no els shall be gathered exceedingly full fear of femininity doing away with the elbow with an almost skin tight cuff effect. There la a tendency to Introwith the glgot duce the munche, which form of sleeve, with its voluminous gathers at the top, holds S.p the iJi4t. There Is a tornado wave of leatheria the question sweeping over' us, and whether we will be bowled over by It Meanwhile let us enjoy completely. of this kid conviction, especially Athat stunthe undressed guise suede. fitning gray suede emit of the float faccuff and It collar haa cult ting of ings of dull orange cloth. With less the blxarre about ft is another Jacket of French gray cloth strapped with gray suede, tha skirt evolved fiom the same malerlul. This dress sympliony concludes with a round shaped hat with upturned brim of squash gray felt, tha orange note being struck by the tail feather of a bird not familiar to the average ornithologist. While upon the eubject of gray gowns, a charming afternoon frock is that of smoke colored dice cloth, the skirt plaited about the waist and the hem trimming carried out by a bouil-hin- n of the cloth taken up in Infinite-lin- al tucks to form a baud edged with narrow quilling. The bodice hua an emplacement of point de venlse which extends over the puffed sleeves and meets a long, tight cuff of the same lace. A basqued effect and girdle are of green velvet. The boat shaped chapeau la of green beaver trimmed with several pale gray feathers. There have been several remarkable styles attempted by a few millinery artists renowned for their originality, but it remains for Haw, La Parlslenne to settle whether she can adapt her face, figure end coiffure to the new styles. As it haa been since the first chapeuu season recorded, there will be worn both the email and large styles of headgear. Crowns are, as a yule, to be high, and even on the new tricornea thla feature la aocentuated. Many of the smaller toques ere composed of plaited' chenille, and there la chenille embroidery on colored net daed aa a decoration on some of the draped velvet toques of the broad crowned beret shape. Mouusellne mingled with narrow strappings of fur la a combination on the latest model. Green promises to reappear, but not In the bright emerald tone so persistently worn lately, th new nuance being of the bronse tinge. Reseda tones end broils green mingled with golden blown ere noticeable on many of the most becoming novelties, and shaded velvet uned In conjunction with shaded plumes Is quite an original color scheme. Small fur tricornes in chinchilla, pony akin and sable ere made to match coats of this pelt. They have a coquettish arrangement of tips curling over the hair at the left side. In order that the gowns belonging to the days of the fascinating though unfortunate queen of Louie X VL of Prance may be In these later times true to the days of old, curls have been added to the coiffure. In fact, so alluring ere these beautlflers that In all kinds of costumes my lady will walk abroad wearing several short, thick curls nestling among the low colls of her hair or dangling In a pretty riot from a higher arrangement of tresses. In short, curls de us and the Is with peau again, are the latest coiffure cult. tlque la ailk of favorite yore, another sole, CATHERINE TALBOT. revived. Butin la to make the gown de tuffeta a and oeremonie, charming A 8 wart Traveling Wrap. broche adorned with little embroidered A rather striking man teau de voyage the lesnovel Is ailk of a satin flowers sen. Thla silk la particularly fetching la designed In a light brown tartan outIn navy blue with tiny satin flowers In lined with a wide, stitched band of cream faced cloth. The cepe la of green and white or in olive green and cream cloth to match, and tlie sleeve brown carried out In the same decorative design In black and white. Bis- la caught into the form of a kind of cuit colored cloth, white cloth and frill at the wrist by means of a stitched heather tweed are the materials In band of cream doth to correspond. which the swagger Parlslenne Is having A Revival f Palate Haase. her first fall frocks developed. The covert cloth coat and skirt made Painted, striped, plain check and perfectly plain, with the long tight fit- flowered guuxes seem to be revived this ting coat strapped, are considered very season, and In dark shades such frocks are very useful. smart. . The new material are fascinating The broadcloths are softer and more supple than ever, and a lovely new variety Is abroad. Then there la among the black fabrics an amason cloth that I very smart. It comes with uu embroidered bonier somewhat resembling hroderie anglalse. Another beautiful material Included In the season's novelties la a ailk embroidered corduroy in different spots and designs. Hilk is U have a great vogue this winter, and il adapts ltaelf perfectly to cirmodel at present, tit the boulllonnes and old fashioned and pipour corseting going to cular and straightao quillings many of th sensible medium which ings which trim an- waist more, while ellml- - ning creations. The old time moire Villa Lunilere. TIlK may be a Joy forever to the music lovers of a home, but It Is never a thing of beauty. In many an otherwise artistic setting every prospect may please, and this very necessary instrument be the only object out of drawing. Blur a piano most of us must have and as In many Instances It needs must turn It back to the rmnpHiiy, and do so allh the usual uncompromising severity of nuiat buck that are turned to th rent of the world, the tactful softening of Its angularities remains among the difficult smoothings away, both actual and metaphorical, which fall to the lot of the mistress of s liouite. Tlie vexed question of whet to do decorutlvely with the upright pbmo hue been answered belter rattier from a negative than a positive viewpoint. Most of us have satlafarlnrily decided what not to do with It In the way of draping It with art fubriri and decontl lug It with Japanese fans or a codec tlnn of Jangling china, but really good effects within the reach of the average purse are not so ready to present them t t t player" j' ) 4 the owner was fortunate enough to a number of valuable miniatures, which ah hung In groups on this velvet background. The happy Idea occurred to iter of passing a little piece of irelty, old fashioned chine ribbon lea than an Iqrh In width through tha ring at the top of each frame, thereby heightening th dainty effect wonderfully. By this means a charming angle waa made In the room, and the miniatures were given the beat possible position as regard light and elevation. Another effective arrangement Is to turn an angle In a room with the assistance of tho piano into an Inviting reading corner. When converting w-s- a m gles to which stood an Immense sofa with a square back. Tills sold was covered with dull blue stuff. Opposite to It was a large and low armchair, also covered In blue. A grand piano stood out In the middle of the room. It was open, and there were no ornaments or photographs upon It. Its shiny black case reflected the flames which sprang up from the logs. Several dwarf bookcases of black wood were filled with volumes, some In exquisite binding, some paper covered. On top of the bookcases stood four dragon china vases filled with carnations of various colors. Electric lights burnt Just under the celling, but were hidden from sight. In the angle of the wall on a black ebony pedestul stood an extremely beautiful marble statuette of a nude girl holding a fan." This room may be easily pictured In Imagination as a whole and Is within almost every one's power to materially accomplish. Another piece of furniture whose decorative reign la over eo far aa lie elaborate gilt frame la concerned la the pier glass, but in some elegantly furnished homes the old heads of the family object to its being consigned to the lumber room, and the younger members may be glad of the following suggestion: A glass placed In a recess takes thia treatment admirably. Above the gloss have a pottery rail f s of dealing with the obstinate square' neas is to treat it ss you would any other rase of obstinsry simply make it of as little Importance as possible, In other words, merge the fractious piece of furniture Inlo the general scheme of the apartment not as an Important detail, but as one that may l)e turned to account In breaking up th floor spare and doing duty aa a screen. A most inviting little nook fur a writing table may Ira made lu a living or drawing room by setting th piano at right angles to a window and placing a dainty French table prettily equipped with writing accessories--nhlr- h, by the way, if smart will Ira of tortoise shellback to back with the piano so that the light falls conveniently upon the blotting pad. The hack, of the Instrument Itself may be covered smoothly with velvet harmonising with the color tone of the room and finished around the tdge with a dull gold galloon when the Shade used in the other draperies will admit of this effect. To apply this velvet backing with photographer's glue s the moat approved method, ee It does away with the danger of Injuring the phuio by hammering In even the finest of nails or brad. In a home vhere the piano back was so treated V i- some Instances thla fullness rxttndi around the waist both buck and bout The shirt waist Illustrated i on g the latest Importations, it i daintily carried out in silk, with a divp yoke effect formed from cut out cloth in a leaf design. Thla trimming also nwkm p high cuff below the very UiufUni, drooping sleeve puff. Te Be Read Before ('houalag a If a woman has sharp or ilecidedir prominent features let her avoid hjy that are set back or off the face, km a woman should wear a hat Lroqiu well forward, her hair should In H fluffy as possible, and a becoming veil will do wonders Sharp outlines in laii should also be avoided by her. but edges and Indented brims tire good. If the features are Irregular, tat with the brim crushed here and that la usually a suitable setting. The vj. man with a prominent noe hua mud to contend with. Her hats shook avoid severeness In outline and alnuU be set well forward so that the promt, nent feature will appear a little lew h else. On the other hand, the worn with a small or flat nose should mx wear a hat that project! sufficiently ta make the nose apiiear even more lislf-lflcant nor a large hat that dwarb It A hat undermedium In size and with small flowers or short tips or rowi u moderate sixe should be worn, frith i small face and features huge plctun hats should never be worn, even if the figure be tall and slight enough to curry them. GRACE GR1SCOK. Tlo Care et Rea's clothes. The cloth of which men's suits ure made needs constant care or It soon gets dusty and shabby looking. Provide yourself with a small cane end with it beat coats, etc., thoroughly, then lay them out smoothly on a table and brush them. You will need two brushes, one with stiff bristles for brushing out splashes of mud and a softer brush for ordinary use. Take care that the garments are quite dry before you brush them, then start with the collar and work downward. Light trousers may be easily cleansed by rubbing them over with dry pipeclay, letting it remain on for four hours end then brushing it out Spots In black cloth will generally yield to sponging with equal parts of hot water and spirits of hartshorn, and a little borax dissolved In suds made of good soap and soft water will cleanse woolen gods nicely. To prevent coats from wrinkling keep them when not In use on hangers. If the elbows or knees get out of shape lay a damp cloth on them, fold them up and leave them for a couple of hours. Then lay the garment on the Ironing board, smooth out with the palms of the hands and pull gently In every direction till the stretched part lies flat Cover with a cloth and press with an Iron, but take care to have a piece of material between the Iron end the cloth or a shiny mark will be left, which will be as disfiguring as the for' mer bagginess. tlnn. corner of this kind Into a coxy nook the posltlun of the piano from the musician's standpoint shuuld be taken Into consideration. No matter how artlMlc tbs setting, no detail In a room can be a sucresa unless it adequately fullllls the puriKise for which It la intended, end the muling corner la no exception. To place a couch or settee with Ha hack against a piano is altogether wrong. The piano may make an attractive screen If properly manipulated and farm an excellent background fur a sent, but the performer's vantage point la lust. Then another objection la that when playing or alnglng Is going bn a coUclr placed against the bnrk of a piano must necessarily be left vacant, for R Is hardly sn unmlxed pleasure to listen to music with the drum of one's ear against the pinna. So tha Ideal way to put up a comer of thla character I to draw a well tilled low book cure quite clow to the back of the piano, with a luxurious lounging chair placed ncur it In a position where the light from the window may reach the reader. AND PROFESSIONAL SOCIAL, DOMESTIC Sines the pedestrian skirt Is so much hoe glare sides, top end bottom, end worn, it la not necessary for the cost to tha shelves era of highly polished aluextend clear to the ground for protecminium. A bathroom board la a convenient artion. Three or four inchre above tlie skirt Is a good length. Large Japaneoe rangement. cousiiilng of a thin, tiled metal buttons are particularly pretty slab about twelra Inches, with all the ou fancy coats. belongings one 1 apt to require In a The new mahogany refrigerators are bathroom fastened upon It securely. as handsome as some pianos end nearly These Include a toothbrush stand, a a Urge. The upper pert, for the ure holder for a tumbler, a soap dish and of Ire, is llndd. as usual, with sine, but a towel rack, all of highly polish. d tha lower part, where the food is kepi. nlckcL They look very neat In eon- - trust wllh the background of white tiling. Tlie board Is all ready to be hung WOMAN very much Muuai.at .. shirt waist 1 a the past, and on many ,! new models the fullness hares uv high girdle or wide leather -i THE der this la another shelf on which to put a fSw choice bits of china. The shelf Immediately next the glass Is an attractive place to set a fern, the glass providing a charming reflection. The safest rule to adhere to In treating artistically the piano and pier glass Is to aim at softening down their ugliness rather than transforming them Into features of ornament. When, and only when, the former course ie observed happy results may be arrived at In the ensemble of a room. selves. The happiest and most art 11 Ic way S MODEL A more ambit luus decoration, charm- ing when well carried out. but more appropriate for a music room pure and simple where the decoration throughout la emblematic than In an ordinary room where there is dancer of Its appearing Bumcwlint pretentious is to mount the back of the piano with panels painted on canvus a Uh figure studies emblematic of harmony. Three X j n A Pretty Fall Fealiios. A pretty fashion which has bm started of late 1s that of wearing cockades of colored velvet or ribbon, cm on the left side of the coreage intte high up, and the other on the right ike at the waist line. They are Urge in: generally of a contrasting color n that of the gown with which they tit worn. Rosettes of burnt orange Trtwt make an exceedingly pretty accmnpal-meri- t to a smart afternoon gowi d brown pilose chiffon. in ( long panels give an exceedingly good effect, the center one being on some plain canvas of a quiet color which makes a pleasing background for a group of flowers, or better still la perfectly plain panel of mahogany, rosewood or whatever wood the piano case happens to be. In Robert lilihens new book, which la creating such a stir, The Woman With tire Fun." he describes a quaint ordinary upright piano, with without Its often hideous A NEW SHIRT WAIST VARIOUS room In uhich USES FOR THE UPRIGHT FIAHO. To Clean Kid White or light kid gloves may be cleaned at home with very little trouble. Rub the gloves first of all with cream of tartar, leave them for an hour, then rub them with fuller's earth and powdered alum mixed In equal proportions. Leave the gloves again until th next day, when they must be brushed until ell the powder Is removed. The next process Is to rub them with oatmeal to which a little powdered whitening haa been added. Wipq all this off with a dry doth, and the gloves ere reedy to be worn again. TOMmqim MZBpediA bottlii-cii- o' Tomatoes to Dip eachtoforslk cm minute In boiling water the skin to peel off easily, then dnb well without pressing. Now put thm on the lire In en enameled pun. Mjf them steadily to the boll, stirring I" tly with a wooden spoon without knot' Ing or mashing them. Then let thia boil steadily for about twelve mlnwa Scald some wide mouthed pro Jars, then drain well, and pour thfF matnes, when ready. Into thesa careful to fill them until the Jules nd r. Then wipe the necks of tho s" ties and screw on the tops, them down tighter as the content and settle. When cold wipe the botwj well. Invert them for a moment t If they dire air tight, then etoie cool, dark place. Cut up Tomato Chowchow. quarts of green tomatoes, " cabbage, seven or eight onions twelve or thirteen cucumber these well, put them Into a bowl In r era, with salt between, end let im stand for twelve hours; then drain the brine, cover with vinegar nnd ter, end again let them stand W o other twelve hours. Meanwhile three quarts of vinegar for a utee with one good teacupful of horseradish, four ounces of nuT ounce of celery "J seed, one-ha- lf , three ounces of ground pcpP same of turmeric, rather less of ofW cinnamon end two pounds sugar. Drain the first vinegar fr , vegetables and cover the laltJn the above, ecaldliyf hot. Let it till perfectly cold, then odd , tnnj cupful of salad oil and about Mi ounces of ground mustard. thoroughly and store In Jars. Spiced Tomatoes. Put Into serving pan four pounds of good. sized red tomatoes with two P0"".. brown sugar, one pint of good ounce each of clos ' end one-ha- lf stick cinnamon. Stew this all . very gently till the tomatoes are ed, but not broken; then lift them and set aside to cooL Continue tm mering the sirup very slowly quite thick. When the tomato" quite cold reheat them gently sirup, and again lift them out, p when perfectly cold In Jars, Purlnurn-athick sirup, lso quite cold, over cover dow;n with bladder. s? rin, Is a decora- -' made of wood corresponding, of course, tlva feature. "The room la hung with with the other woods In the apartment. A Raaslaa Custom. blue gray linen, against which were Under the rail ia a' drapery disposed so A Starch For Lares aad When a Russian family move It la fastened several old Italian picture In ns to completely hide the frame and black frame, on the floor1 were some fixed on a braes rod placed In front of usual for the head to carry about half a Mix a small quantity of earn eastern ruga in which faded and orig- the top of the frame. A shelf Is fitted pint of embers or warm ashes In smoothly with cold water. T? inally pale color mingled. A log fire In Immediately under the glass with closed vessel from the hearth of on be found excellent as a starcb i' was burning on the hearth, at right un and muslins. carved finishings, slightly arched. Un- - house to that of th other. the piano telephone wna fitted with a cover something like the fell piece with which up. a phologrnplir shields his lens. This Anulher recipe for Blivet cleaning: cover was always kept on the mouthMix a teaspoonful of ammonia with a piece when the telephone was not in wlneglnssful of water end use a little use. the object being to keep out dust, of this liquid to make some whiting which In doctor's office might be InInto a paste. Rub the tarnished articles fected with an unusual allowance of with this paste, which should be ap- germs. An American girl only nineteen years plied with one leather and polished off with another. old is winning an enviable place as a In the house of a woman physician mngaxlne illustrator in the line of face was observed a very Inlelllrent saninnd figure wmk. ller picture sie tary device. The mouthpiece of the signed "C. U. Dillon or "Boyd Dillon," which la her real name, but those who do not know suppose her to be a man. Miss Emily H. Bourne baa given a school building to the George Junior Republic at Freevllle. N. Y. Inexpensive evening materials were never prettier then at present, and never has so great a variety been possible for so little money. Mary, crown princess of Rotmuinta, who Is a niece of King Edward of England. has given up the sidesaddle and rides only the cross saddle, man fashion. .She was imiralled to tills course by a terrible experience with a frightened horse In which she nearly lost her life because of her sidesaddle end long riding skirt. With twenty-fiv- e ribbons and two championships to her credit, Mrs. James B. M. Grosvenor carried off the honors of the Newport horse show. She exhibited harness horse. A silk frock If at all passe may be converted Into a pretty wrapper. Arisons has a Chinese cattle queen. Miss Lee Kue. Her father, a very rich Chinese ranchman, died lately, leav ing her property paying W'0!veg live stock nnd farm end products. Every detail of t" fagement of the ranch little understands better then any ni nd 52-I- late Mix Mary Cunning''i( Milton, Mass left In her will! e to beautify end improve the are made to order comb tows-Som- with PB tolre shell mounted bands. The owner- pioneers ten engraved upon the t, ornaments are not Inexpens exclusl of virtue th have they |