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Show THE SUNDAY STANDARD: OGDEN, UTAn, SUNDAY, MAY 19, 1907. that if one can keep things long enough sooner or Liter they will be the fashion mice more, but who would have thought s that tfteae little sunshades would ever again be the niode? It in a great pity, however, that tn these times of change and travel we do not Bonn limes try to put awgy and hoard up some of our treasures, aa dal our mother and grandmothers, for who doe not remember the delight we felt when aa children wa were allowed the privilege of rummaging among our mothere old trunks In the attic and the screams of delight at the unexpected priaee we unearthed for our private ridi.-uku- theatricals? The Ever Popular Linen. Linens are to be more popular than ever, and predictions ara that wa shall see mure costumes of colored lima than we have in past seasons. Certainly the colorings ara calculated to tempt one from allegiance to white and string color, though these two are the must practical of all linens for genuine tub frocks. The string color, biscuit, natural tons and other colorings of similar character aro pronounced favorites, and the cool, soft light shades on this order ire rhown In exquisitely fine hand woven linens, which should he extreimly serviceable aa well aa charming for tout and skirt costumes, guimpe tracks etc. Buttons of crochet linen or buttona covered with linen and embroidered In a star or dot or cirrle ara liked for linen frocks, but tbo pearl buttona are ago much ured. Plain tailored coat and skirt costumes of white, blue, browu, biscuit or lavender linen, buttoning with large separate collars and cuffs of white linen or pique, plain or embroidered, are to bo very popular. The coats are cut in box or aemifitted shape and of moderate leiigth. and the collar and sleeve are of the plain coat order. Other models lean severe follow modified pony coat lines and are made and with three-quartsleeve. Cuffs and collar of embroidery and lace or of heavy lace are supplied among the separate aecesaoriea for tha embellishment of auch coats. Sams Medish Jewelry, The gold mesh purse that Is, of tha newest order shows a double pattern brought about by the clever plaiting of platinum, gold and silver. A heavy 'gold mouth or frame supports tha mesh part, which is gathered Into It like a bag. and the inner aide of the mouth reveals receptacles for coins, a tiny powder pad and an efficacious but lillipu-tla- n mirror. Gold box purses are preferred to bags by some elegantes, and one bore a cats head repousse upon it In gold and silver, with brilliant emerald ryes and around ita fluffy neck a ribbon cravat tied In a carelesa bow, all made of lovely rubles. For gems the diamond la always In favor. In France aa well as in most countries It la the moat loved of atones. No matter how placed or how tiny, It lights up the netting and atands forth liko a beautiful drop. The diamond haa an unselfish way of enhancing other gems It may be placed among, too, by bringing out their depth or Individuality or brilliancy. Wheoo Is tho Blame? Tho Parisians declare that the English are to blame for the proixrllons of the chapeau, but auch shapes were never neen by well dressed Englishwomen. The bell shape has been loved by Englishwomen for many yearn, but the hell of this season does not atop at that It la dented In and so abused that there la no tone" left in It. Milliners try to persuade their customers that they will ea er U now imnl yer since ramori and aKaln they have pronounced U de mode and plebeian, but the feminine world declined Daily to accept the dictum, and the bluuae atill reisna triumphant. The grou of Faria blouses preaenled herewith la a recent production of a funioun atelier and It all that la new and pleasing lit the evolution of thla favorite garment Thera la a great fancy now for exclusive dealgna In embroidery and It la faahionable to have one'a gown made first and to embroider It by hand after, ward. Of course the undertaking seema lo the effect that the blouse waa IT about to be relegated to the "haa been' had the power to make ua uiiiuropy. In atiHe of all theae prophetic miKJrios this nHMt useful of carmen La to be quite an popular aa ever and shows no signs whatever of becoming lee eu at preaenL Never before have thoae who oiiKinute and ntudifr the inode met with such elitnal defeat a In llieir III atarred attemiita to banleh thin aeneible garment. Tima ea rt-i- an endleaa one, but It offer a great srutie for one'a Indualry. Where handsome reception gowns ara concerned the hand embroidery runs up tho front breadth and around the train, and there la always aonie embroidery around the armholes and upon the vest. The work Is an tiresome, when done by hand, that the temptation la to buy the already embroidered fabrics now offered In the shops and to make up one's gown stylishly and quickly from the materials offered. A great change haa taken place In the public mind aa to the desirability of ready nmcie embroidery, which la a term applied to the aaachine products in the ahoia. The newer grades of work are as beautiful that one hesltatea to call them machine made, and many of them Are o elegantly carried out that they actually put to shame the work done by hand. It is actually more delicate than hand work. Small Parasols In Vsgua. mu-chi- na The tiny little marquis parasols which used to he carried by our grand mot hera are again coming Into fashion. It Is, strange to nay. the automobile which haa helped to revive this fashion. It haa been found that the parasols are particularly convenient to carry, a they fold In the middle and at the top au aa to protect the holder from the aun and the wind and do not Interfere with tha driver In the exasperating and dangerous way that bigger parasols have a knack of doing. Old handles and niounta are In great demand for these parasols and have become very expensive. It la often said " not one chapeau out of a hundred ti " In '""ration, ! aa though had bee,, . . a dnwng rain thatthey had tk-- n io :o Vy,hWn and bioWn there leu th tniumlng and alL At a gathering recently the women lolt ed aa though they had searchedalli , boxes and wardrobes for the reputable things there, hud du.. them and gune fonh to the Old or. as the miiiinere nattier blue, is must a hi mode m i,head gear. Peacock biue and are also very fashionable. raspheny Kluuers taking a rest, but they are sure to,0 ! back on airy summer hats for the wu, ,,, season. Feathers and ribbon are e..n In abundance, and both have many nations. For Instance, one big hat an entire fringe of little ostrich aoout the crown that fell over theplumes brim There were at least a duxen. Then see the lmmeneely long piume curls itself around the entire hat ih.t ai d then rests on the shoulder. Glovae Match Trimming. "iL'a all In the said the ungov," man whose costume had just been nounced by her friends extremely ehir You will observe that tley match tl trimming of the suit instead of matching the goods in color. If I had 01, a pair of champagne gloves, the color of this cloth, you would never look twee at the gown. It would be commonplace and ordinary, but these long, soft (m. glovee give Just the right accent and bring out A striking effect." Tha Whits Suit The white suits hold the faverir place, aa of old, and among the costume designed for the summer resort are essentially the thing. Voile arid panama cloth have proved to be th most satisfactory among the wool materials and, although the latter is an Inexpensive fabric. It may be fashioned Into garment which rival the Pari creations In style. One la shown in th shop which has all the chic of an imported suit and yet la made of cream white panama. The aleeve la the correct Japanese shape, with Its trimming of rows of soutache braid and buttona Black velvet brought around the neck and hanging In ends to I lie waist give a little character as a finishing touch. The Big New Sleeve. A fashion which la making a great headway la the big, loose sleeve, or, ta describe It differently, a big drapery about the armhole, which answer aa a aleeve. It la a wonderfully graceful fashion and seems almost universally This Idea la simply a debecoming. velopment of the shoulder drapery which haa been In vogue all whiter. It haa now grown voluminous and la pushed further off the shoulder. Aa ta tha Hair. Hats alt extremely low upon the head. The beat have little or no height of crown, and no bandeau la used. Tha little beaucatchers and curia that have so flattered the hats and heada of madams and mademoiselle for several seasons past will have no place au far as tha new hat la concerned, for. sweeping down aa It doea. everything la hidden. However, the hnlr is now arranged ao that It la coifed to appear as thick aa possible, and the rolls and puffs employed are enormous. These do not etand out high from the brew, but make a very broad Impression. Nothing is screwed back tight Hair la waved over big rolls and la then put rather flatly over the back of the heA to give aa round an effect aa possibla L . p-- hj p. - ' Paris Fancies For the Early Summer; Some i Catherine Talbot JVrites of Modes as At the Ooneours the new costumes make their appearance In full splendor. In tha morning one sees tha tailor made absolutely at Ua beat, and on tha faahionable afternoons the gowns are exceedingly elaborate and of most original design. My Impression of the toilets at the lllppique, taken a a whole, la that tha mudea of tha moment ara not entirely flattering to the female form divine. They have a tendency to make pretty women look Just a little heevy and overloaded, and 1 believe the new huts and the new sleeves have much to answer for In thla connection. Given a very large hat, weighed down wllh feathers and worn well down on the head, and given at the same time a short coatee with enormoua sleeves which look ilka capes from, the back, tha effect la of necessity rather stuMay 4. PARIfl, pendous. The new hats are delightfully picturesque, viewed by themselves, and certainly the newest sleeves are not only picturesque they are also most comfortable and practical. Hut, then, the two together! it la interesting and nut a Utile amusing to note the war which is raging In the millinery world picture hats worn in an exaggeratedly picturesque manner versus coquettish little hats jf the Dolly Varden order, the latter perched high on the head, showing a great deal of hair In front. Of cuurse different hats prove becoming to different women, but the tendency just now la to make Immensely large list of. th picture'' order generally popular, and In this tendency much danger lx embraced. Serna Radical Changes. In several Important respects fashion has commanded radical changes to he made thla season. The hair Is dressed in a different manner from that of last year, the hats ore worn at a different angle, and the sleeves of the newest blouses and cnatecs are absolutely and entirely different. Nearly all the new coat sleeves are put into an Immensely large armhole, and. though they do nut how any fullness on the shoulder, they In themselves are ao wide that they look exactly like capes when the arms are down. I am quite in love with these new sleeves, but I recognise that they demand a sicial order of hat and gown and wearer. Little tus. sore coatees of a order look eminently chic' and original when finished off with great bell sleeves of guipure or Venetian point which matches In color the coat material. Quite tha newest Idea la to hare these sleeves cut In the shape of a funnel, the armhole aa largo as possible and the sleeve tapering away to almost a point nt "the wrist. As I have already remarked, the effect from the seml-China- ae semi-Japane- WOMAN AT HOME bark of sleeves of thla order la that of a picturesque raj. Tha New Headgear. One more word on the subject of picture hats." Fashion lias decided that they are to be exceedingly large and Of the mushroom outline, with numerous feathers waving over the brim at the buck or with enormoua bows of handsome ribbons perched at one aide, the end fulling over the hair. Home of .the best dressed women at the Conroura lllppique wore black hats of thla order, with gowns of pals hued cloth and handsome lace. Black chip hat are very fashionable this year, and some of tho neweat models show chip brims with linings of tuscan and crown of puffed point d'esprlt. White straw hut lined with black straw are the dernier cti In millinery. Others are edged wllh a border In a contrasting shade of straw, A notable feature la tha mnnnpoly of trimmings. By this I mean that one hat will show only ribbon, another fealliera, another flowers or foliuge. Typical examples are the hats here llluntraled. In the one instance we have a decoration iff wings only. In the oilier of black uncurled ostrich plumes. The former crowns a costume which is of the denit tqllleur order, so Intensely popular this year, as Individuality In dress Is each one's aim. This model assumed by one of society's most beautiful and elegant members) was of dark blue serge. The .skirl, with Its Insertions of bias and minute tucks. Imitated a tunic. The novel little bolero was worn over a lawn blouse Inr rusted with guipure. Bom Approved Fabrics. In the way of new material we have bleck and white striped net and printed viiilea de sole. Home of tha latter show quite new design. A good aiaed half moon and broken stripes are patterns which ara waiting to be taken up. Hhantung silk as a revival Is being freely used. It is welcomed for motoring wraps, afternoon gowns, blouses and facing. It almost share popularity with tussore. Home women have adopted Jackets made In a material differing from that of the skirt The mode is particularly charming when represented by the little colored linen coatees referred to here a short time ago. fluny lace is coming In and threatens to usurp the place of guipure ilirlanile. Thick, coarse lace Is. generally speaking, preferred to the liner kind, and It Is being dyed in all shades. A novelty consists in superposing material of the same kind chiffon, voile de aoie and such transpari ncles, of course in two different enlurs. A fascinating shot effect la thus produced. There Is no small degree nf favor shown to Utile, short waisted Jackets. AND EVERYWHERE "Rasqued boleros" describes them perhaps better. They take the place of the long direclolra coats and the which were ao much worn In the winter. No part of dress presents greater difficulties than tha collar, aa I have pale-tots-sa- cs brought Into greater prominence. For the hruuil tore and heavy jaw no fi uraiahf lilies of any soli: instead, the Dancing dresses for young girls form est work and try to keep the kin an important part of the summer out- and smooth by the daily e of a hair Klimild be arranged in fluffy rolls fit. Every gill should have at .least healing lotion. I hut will breadth tn the top of tha give one dainty, low necked A broad faced woman wllh lapn-inhead. for wear In summer. chin should avoid a style of hairdressGreen and white magnslia wood Is The housekeeper who aspires to em- ing that calls T'r cutis or fluffy whw used a great deal for the handles of broider should save her Imnds as much on each side of the head, the tri.ingl embroidered linen parasols. as possible. Use glove for the rough portion of the fare being thereby a Reason when Never ha there -- had occasion to observe before. It la akin In the case of the yoke, while the peated In mitten sleeves, which are tea for any sort of country amusement a stumbling block which only the real collar la plaited and edged with a little cooler than long gloves and will there- That la really the difference betwee artist In dresatnaking overcome at all. ruche. But net may wllh advantage fore he adopted In the summer. the French Idea of dreaa for racing and And he It Is who haa decreed thut he varied by insertions of Valenciennes the English one. It la only on specially A Modish Example. transiiarent yokes and collars shall be and stitching or by alencon lace. These lovely days that the long tailor mad It la quits astonishing the rapidity skirt looks wall trailing over th ordthe mode. He glres preference to flue dentelle a clutr ara always most benet, which is stretched tight on the coming to the face. They may bo ra- - with which white gloves have disapinary paddock, which la often more oi peared from tha scene. They are, of less of a mud heap. THE JUMPER WAIST AS ELSE. -- u-- gown-exclusivel- n They Are XT IS IN PARIS. there Is a more tempting display of cotton, linen oi mercerized material suitable fur evening wear. The all flock I worn a great A (harming creation of bahy deal. rish shows louche of black velvet and pale blue silks. t irnunieiits. buckles of every shape and hute hesdl hatpins have a rnn-sp- li uous plai c. In truth, trimmings are a bit overdone In millinery, as In everything else. Spoons are sometimes used with firm puddingaL but forks are the better style. Too much salt In gravy may be counteracted by putting a pinch of brnn n sugar In It. Never throw away old gloves, particularly old white gloves. They are course, atill worn with pure white gowns In tha afternoon aa well aa the evening, but even with white dresses It la mors correct to wear gloves of pale gray shades. One never now see white kid or suede gloves worn with black or colored frocks. Pale gray gloves harmonize delightfully with all the pastel shades, and they look most artistic when worn with gowns of aevres blue or peach taffeta or chiffon cloth. Mine, liartet 1 Just now wearing the loveliest princess gown of peach colored chiffon rlotli Inset with Venetian guipure and embroidered In alike and chenilles. Tha dresa opens at ona side over an underdrea of palest gray mirror velvet, and the hem la edged with chenille fringe. The upper part of the bodice la entirely composed of lace, and the hat la of the darkest and richest shade of prune de monsieur, with three feathers resting op the brim and hair at the left side. This was one of the most satisfactory harmonies of colbr I have ever seen, the splendidly rich prune giving the required touch of strong color. liartet has genius In the matter of dress, as In the matter of acting, and If one studies her costumes one learns very much that Is useful. I have noticed lately that her blouses have altered slightly as regards outline. They do not pouch at all In front, but neither do they lit tightly. The supple material Is cleverly folded to form a heart over the bust, the point reaching the waist and finishing off Juat below the natural waist line., Tha American Invasion. A number of foreign visitors are ever here Just now. In particular are our dressmakers Invaded by a swarm of very elegant young women who palpably emanate from the decks of American liners. Their hata of original device, their big buttonholes of flowers, tend to a certain distinctive and exotic cachet that corresponds with their undoubted good looks. Crowds of smart people make rendezvous .at Colombln or Kits theae days, and brilliant is tha stream of gay humanity . that pant and repasses before our eyes. Thla spectacle ever renascent, ever varied Is one that cornea of Faria, and of Paris alone. For Outing Wear. Nowadays, when people almost live In motors, it Is absolutely essential that every detail of the toilet should bo studied carefully, for nothing looks more Incongruous than trailing draper- - Bit today these practical and sporting tailor modes can be very fascinating if they are well carried out a regards detail. To begin with, the nut. terial Itself can he lovely, and an embroidered waistcoat relieves the monotony of either serge or tweed, whil some of the new buttons are in themselves thing of art. If the skirt bt practical and Just dears the ground and Is plaited In the new way, the coal may ba as elaborately trimmed as you like, provided It la in strict keeping with the motive of the tailor made. Heavy braidings and embroideries ara much used, and ona of tha smarted little dark blue serge coats haa a rollai and revere of golden tissue braided la dork blue. This shows a glimpse of a blue embroidered waistcoat, with som wonderful greeny blue buttona, and a dainty tucked white mualln shirt with a folded collar of soft black I'berty satin and a turnover of finest whits hand embroidery. All details, auch a chemisettes and Jabots, collars, etc. are essential In the construction of the smart tailor made frock, which, aa I say, can be practical and sporting at the same time. Because you have to wear a weather resisting tweed or serge there la no reason why you should look dowdy In It. On the contrary, tailor made costume have reached the height of perfection, and the French tailors understand th art of making th smart tailor mad quite aa well as tha Viennese tailors. After all. tha man who can cut tha moat difficult of all things namely, the riding habit to auch perfection ran surely do motoring, fishing and sporting clothr In general better than any one else and haa only to add a delightful foreign touch In th matter of trimmings to achieve success In traveling and race gown. Frenchwomen have realised that 'they can have a coat and skirt of some other fabric than blue serge. Enormously wide stripes, which originally hailed from Vienna, have become exceedingly popular, perhaps almost too much aa The clucks, ever beloved of th Frencfc have a certain vogue of their own thi season and ara extremely becoming ta a woman with a good figure, giving a great air of smartness ta plain garments. Theae costumes are best made with a waistcoat, and one of tha most delightful I have seen la In white pique hand embroidered In many color. Home of the Russian and Japanese embroideries give an admirable touch of color to tha darker frocks. CATHERINE TALBOT. most useful in protecting the hands while dusting, sweeping or washing dishes. Never use rule or inferior note paper In writing letter. Paper with buRlne heading should not be used for private letter. Tasteful stationmeans note paper and envelopes of ery choir quality, but plain, with perhaps the initials, monogram or address of the writer stamped at the top of the note paper. Queen Alexandra la an enthusiastic exphotographer and one of the most pert camera amateurs In Europe. Miniature lemons are used a a trim mlng on a number of hata Jacket effects are much In evidence on the modified empire and prince frockx |