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Show f ' t u (or GOWN'S billi and dinner us just sow. U a rush of Even the mourning costume is not Immune from romiimations of different materials, and many of the most pleasing models shown are worked out to just before the Lentene blue tulle is per-thPeacock COBl,. the season for of novelty costumes, the tulle shot with cold A cive an Iridescent appearance. with of this material spangled L is seen In the laic picture. A frill royal robe It Is. edged with a deep The graceful half of ermine. elfect shown a half draped clinging, toward the clasak. and gos'D for the southbound Buriat are displayed la aU the shops, to nothing sUrtiingly novel etlll modes are chic and attractive. The Illustrated are ell advanced ,,F inode Is In straw end msllnes. at at or how many cards to few how just new acquaintlesvs when calling on a mane ance to a difficult problem for to solve. There to always the he fear that ones acquaintance may to iiom np In the latest wrinkle tha me caller. Then ones social standing or apt to be Judged by the liberality de af cartes stinginess la the matter were leaving Two women visit e. raids the other afternoon at a smart came up after house, and (his question The matter the bell had bean rung.Oh.- Just band in a had te be aettlcd. Its the aafest whole lot of cards. old way" asM the older of the two. an social campaigner, by the wdy. after If you dont hand in enough honors. they think you are not well pouted Hut whea you hand In a number they think you knew mere than they de about the game and that It'e some new style that they liave heard nothing shout, and your social stock goes up Take-madvice," she accordingly. added, sad when you are not quite sure of anything go te the extreme of liberality rather than to the other thing. It pays in the end." y The relntrodurtinn of the hourglass figure for women to threatened. Those twprofessing to know say that d re in h hr ra have for a long time been making aealoua efforts to reintroduce the welaled patters of feminine humanity. Now the sight of full, round skirts and hourglass corsets will, K Is said, be the feature of the coming season, and women who would be fashionable will hare to reduce those increasing inches of the waist, which Is ascribed In the continued popularity of shirt waists, straight front r or seta, the vngue of athleticism. It It Shoulder knots Ad breast knols of Hosting ribbons are to be observed on many uf the baby robes that are inputted from France, the tradition of pink for a girl and blue for a boy seemingly bring mors observed over there than here. It ft Lace shawls are made Into frocks nnw and are considered particularly rmarl for dinner and reception wear. are used They really exactly like the materials of which the robes are made, yet whenever tl to not absolutely ei- - sontlal to cut In order to make them tit, these aliawls are the mime expensive and desirable, and a woman who possesses one that will make a train If only a short one In decidedly fortunate. These laces besides being unusual are particularly attractive because of the graceful fold In which they may be draped about the body. They aiw becoming alike to stout and slender women. ft ft The soft Uisierlesa crape mull factuiwd especially for purposes of mourning make attractive toilet, and the lines upon which uch costume are bull! this season are more graceful Ilian ever. An example I found in a dress of Milk crepe de chine trimmed with bias folds of English crape. The skirt flta faultlessly over the hips, extending above the waisr line In corselet effect. Thera to a brfdice of the earns, ma terial over which falls Ihe smartest of bolero Jackets, cut square at the front and having its effect outlined with Mil lin'd bands of liiiiiilNmne black Where the bands meet or broadelulh. overlap thiy are trimmed with bullous of dull silk moire. Down the mlitill of (he elbow sleeves (here Is a aiiiclirff band of broadcloth piped with narrower fold of The ruff I uf crape, bound with the broudclnth, thus reversing Ihe order nf tilings smart Iompletlng the costume to tistiie of dull black felt, trimmed with craiie rosea and leaves and dialled daintily with a crsie bordered nut veil. rr. crape and cloth 01 cloih and auu-king-l of dullest black taffeta. ft ft Scorning the edict from Parts that pis ids are "it for the promenade, several leaders of fashion In Washington have taken te etripee. A symbolist might ahffddcr at the idea, la view el the danger some Washington men run uf wearing similarly barred garb. Several of the Christmas gowns were d stripe in woolen and silk. lira. Depew has a remarkable looking gown of dark gieen and pale blue, with which she wears silver fox furs. Mrs. Anderson has a costume of mauve and yellow which looks still better wrhen sable furs are worn with it. Pink and blue for party gow ns are fs vet lies, and It may be added that a young woman in Washington, whose father gets only the small pry of an army officer, ha planned two dainty striped gowns out of ihe beat purtions of castoff gowns of summers agnne. ft ft Cascades of lace are is he even more highly favored In the mode to come than they are at present. What with tits vugue of the wattes it or rmpiiw hock they are two different and distinct styles and are'becomlng only to very different style of build and figure Ihe cascade of luce down either side makes for a softening effect l hat I fetching In the extreme. Tablier from in the new skirts, petticoat effecis. brveltes or bibs upon the bodice, all of those call loudly for mne such design In the scheme uf elaboration. The net top liice.i are particularly good In this ronnri Hon. wince the lop can he cut off where the csscaile is supposed tu be narrow without In Ihe least interfering with Ihe licauiy of the design. and Ihe Increasing width as it descends Is accomplished with softness where this material is employed. ft ft amt modistes have been Milliner .busy gelling up things tn linen, straw, lace, flowers and ribbons that would appeal to the southern "flitters," wild while the various models sra loo evidently evolved from the best winter productions 10 have any real novelty they are Indies live of lit styles liable tu continue, with slight modifications, through the spring and summer. Mushroom Its I a and those In sailor si is lies, as well as the short front, wills bark type of brim are shown In straw and lioraelialr braid. The nihehlne still lied shapes are said lo lead Instead of the hand sewn styles that have been reckoned smarter for several season. Ho far as are concerned there to not much change from the flower trimmed rhaiieaux of the winter, and tulle te to he even moro poiu than heretofore. Already there is said to he a ehurisge la this filmy and belists of lulls tn coming material, mushroom shapes, with edges bound tn velvet of a deeper or cum resting shade, such as have been familiar at the play ail winter, are reproduced with only minor changes for southern wear. lr Some Advance Spring Modes Designed In Paris ARI8. Jan. 21. This to certainly an age of rush, rush and still more rush. Why, one cant even comfortably get on or off an omnibus here in Parts without hearing the guard, or whatever thin military looking individual la styled, call out tn hi perfectly suave, polite French fashion. "Depacher vous, mail i tie. As If you were not at that moment going at top speed, probably For if there mentally and physically. i one thing that to Impressed upon Americans from their earliest childhood It the fact that time la money, and if we were, as g nation, as good all round linanriers aa we ere hustler poverty would be unknown. Thera to hardly time to hlnk, and aa for meditation upon the Immortality of the soul or any other serious subject, well. In this age if thought to be a splendid occupation fur nuns and the clergy. The layman Idea seems to be to accomplish as much as you can on earth, for there will be plenty of time for thinking In the hereafter. I reckon most of us share the feelings of Umt. de Montespan who, when she was dying, ordered a blase of lights around her and had people In relays to chatter to her In order to prevent her thinking. 'd ft ft would not enjoy thinking shout the possibilities of her spring and summer wardrobe, even If the actual costumes do not material lie for a few weeks yet? Now that the Riviera season Is In full swing wre have the opportunity of making some safe gunasoa at least as to what the summer styles are likely te develop. Even the famous couturiers are not at all sura which one of the many modes they have launrhed tentatively will aptivate the fancy of the elect For this Is a matter which chance or some great one In the mondalne or But what woman ne And now world glonn ran Influence. that individuality plays such a fashionable part tn dress there to no knowing what will be what In fashion-d'u- n a month from the present writing. La Mode Is not like Sentimental Tommy, thst Interesting hero of Barrie. hose individuality consisted In his not having any. my lady of chiffons expects her special dressmaker to ro-rsome of his genius for her own Individual requirements, so there are modes kept for the modish private ', ve genuity has been taxed to the utmost. Our old and trusted friend voile appears again la an alluring display of plaid and striped effects Indeed, one may almost feel safe In predicting a The season of plaids and checks. Kcotch Idea of combining different rolora into g "plaldle has given way to the French and more artistic mingling n( several nuances uf one color, tlray g a smart and modish plaid, and where color ia Introduced other than white a pale dull yellow Is selected for the hairing off of the plaids, but no near akin are then squares In coloring that from a distance the effect is that uf a one toned surface. Indcrd. beauty of blending la one of the features of all the new plaids, and from the present outlook black and hits checks combined In attractive new way, with white predominating, will be worn by smart woman for morning suits. ft scarf liaHd three times a wide si the shoulders as at Ihe ends. This new llchu to symmetrical and small, and Its folds are pressed in ltlt s hot Iron. Tile trimming is usually of killed luce, with width ilejiemHnf uimn the figure. A slender woman run utund n rut her deep frill, hut, on the wit ole. the narrower pluliing to preltler. The ends cress back and front to meet the high glitlle or for a matronly figure a filled belt. In this tase the fastening to g suiMit largo button or flat choi. Very quaint will be muslin frocks of old time flowered urgundie hurlng flrlius of chiffon laffela finished at the edge with a frayed out niching of the silk. A coal u me nf litis kind worn by s piquant girl nf the willowy alyl wttli a reticule of Hie aame silk ov r her arm and a drawn coal scu'tle bnnacl trimmed with s wreath of roses on her preiiy head well. I leave it to your linugina-lio- n to funcy the effect. ft And what delightfully chic effects the Parisian woman obtains in her simple costumes! Te my mind, they proclaim the master touch more distinctly than creations nf a more ambitious genre. These little suits seldom reach America, or If they do are never appreciated as "made In Paris." The great majority of buyers pass them hy, knowing that Mrs. Dollars will not pay the price for surh a simple showing, but will reserve her husband's liberal dree allowance for a dinner, opera or bell toilet where all that run may read the Imprint of Worth's, Pound's, La Ferrleres or ' Paquln's Irreproachable handiwork. ft Talking nf ye olden times, fringe Is promised a great vogue In Ihe spring. Ituring tile winter mantles and have here and there aliown trimming of fringe, but it has not Tasbeen taken up enthusiastically. sels are to continue on their way. rejoicing In the Mipulurlfy they have achieved this season. , When used with ee ft The skirt, simple, save for a weighting at the bottom, has taken Arm hold of fashion's favor and Is in itself so graceful thst It has become a question a new go n. Wherewith shall It be weighted?" The tuck has served Its term honorably and well and to to put In another term of servitude during the coming season, but it Is even more effective and new te weight a skirt With a contrasting material In texture, such as voile trimmed with cloth of the same shade or cloth and moire and so on down the endless line of sartorial combination. Then there are the heavy, bold guipures, either colored to match the cloth or ordinary white or cream, thst serve the same weighty purpose. Pew a stunday of Meruit ning frock cloth weight'd with garlands formed nf passementerie to match tn color placed about evaiy ten inches around the skirt between the knee and the foot line. when-orderin- the-othe- r A FEW OF THE EARLY customer that are never known until Ihe public, dress parade on Uie Riviera f the races bring them to light. ft ft There Is nothing strikingly new In ft ft fabrics, and It is most ungracious to expect more than the makers have A pretty frock destined to be worn done for ns In this line, fur their In on the Riviera la a combination of FASHIONS,' HOUSEHOLD HINTS AND WOMEN'S WORK. Twenty-on- e American glrta have named Europeans wearing the title of Irinee. Among them are Italians, Germans and Russians. Clara M. Btlmson of Maine owns and operates three large lumber mills, at Fniyrna Falls. Limerick and Ashland. Bhe ia one of the shrewdest and muet peeled lumber nrni tor in Maine nd has become wealthy at her husi-- r, dicate to encourage band Idcemakirg In their country and to dispose uf the product after it Is made. Largely through the effort of Mrs. J. J. Hoff. In Farts. American and English wnmeii art students there will have a comfortable hotel of their own. in French conversation and literature, also instruction in art and mush', will be given at the bniet Fomr French women of the oM have formed a commercial syn Queen Victoria end wife uf the crown prince of Roumanla, Is a great favoi ks ry discretion there .Is- - nothing of' the lilxorre about these fluffy little adornment. although a toe plentiful supply nn a costume to apt to' give the impression of a masquerade dress nut of its class. During Lent the girt who is always In the vanguard uf fashion will be seen braiding herself a gmyn in eoutache the color nf the material, Fhe will hare her dressmaker rut , the lengths and eew them together; then her labor of love begins, the ontllning of the design. Linen braid of straight and fanciful patterns is earn on linen suits mingled with lace and hand emA very up to- date touch broideries. I to outline the seams of a gown or hlmise with narrow rluny beading, and some of the daintiest summer frocks boast nothing In the way of trimming The ubiquitous save this beading. gufmpe is getting into the category of the thing one. can't get m without and to again proving a force tn all the new fashions. While, of course. Is first choice, but when not detachable the gulmpe may be of any color toning tn with the frock. ft ft Kveq If one Is shivering In furs It is a pleasure to Imdc at the summer hats, and many of them in mallncs and horsrhnlr would pot look outre worn with these same furs, for one's winter chapeau is apt to be A little the worse for wear at this season. Of Film- Slurie. i,f j SUITS. ing to be very small this season. As rule, they will not be of the "on and off" kind that are removed at will, but will be a part of the waist Itself. They do not go around the neck in Ihe old' fashioned manner either, but are made In two part, each like a long white voile and cloth with Insertions of thick thread lace. The skirt hangs full from Ihe waistband and to trimmed shout half a foot from the bottom with a wtde band of lace, edged on each side with bands of two Inch white cloth. The bodice has the popular bib effect with long shoulder line and to made with lace. The of heavy clotli sleeve arc very original, consisting of a moderately large puff Just above the elbow, over whli h cornea a loose, sb&rt drapery of lace Iwndi-- with clot it Fichus as bulk adornments are go In thst country. She Is very merry and lively, has learned the Roumanian language and talks in their own tongue to tha peasants, who are devoted to her. Mrs. Alice HaHemin. president of the Girard fKan.) Fists bank, 'my (tanking Is a woman's butdnes as much as a man's. a Vaseur Mis Julia Zimmerman, of a large graduate. to snprrlnran-lenreal estate Isislnes. if) ('hwelund. 1" gnv.n sie The bl:i-i"l "i'i-effective often made ap hy trimming, medallions tiring bor. ha been the keeper of that lighthouse now fifty years. Of fair day she saiis her cat boat serosa the harbor of satin or velvet ribbon. n negrj wiunun of to get housekeeping supplies. During Mummy" M old. hut she st'll her long jiertod of government service Memphis. I 115 ' for her living. Ida Lewis ha saved some twenty does Ironing imd from drowning. Fhe Is strong, well and merry. The empress of t'lilna ha determined Mss Eily l het Smith of Lafayette, fol ,.. is a (lnii-gi-milvety engaged in lo stop foot Irinding al any coet. 'hough Ihe" old mandarin families are against trade. Thorrshy He. In rex her in this reform. Prolceor will iiisko Mist women ciffrag will conserve Ihe Ml,, Eihef Riseevelf. I'.bilt IV I whiter. Is : I to Is the home lif- -. 1'ie falliOIIH life yt. vrr of l.i t looking of nil Hie K.msevctls. File , 1Ih lx klfin, untight end groclul, with' Lime llock lighthouse in vn t"ri har i ; SPRING tr-- t i'i d a worked in between bands of lure. Hie Iwo often cirn" led by straps formed '', ier-so- ew-ln- I lr-'1'i'-r J In-1- Ij-- V. -- light brown hair. Fh Is very simple and cordial In her manners. Fruit cake should be stared In a tin box or a crockery Jur and wrapped with cloih witurnted In brandy to be moist, fine of the newest and most artistic table ili'ruratlun. designed for the hordes for whom rut flower Die not available, la nf flower mads of ribbon nr silk, with natural greens to show them off. "If women knew what sttrarflve s'lliililcly iicy could hale lo IlieU1 lionifs in Ihe win'-- lllr .if ihctu would dwarf fruit trees that bear . course the models shown now are of the ex iwil men'll type and follow closely the lines we ate now wearing. Rloik chip hate trimmed with handsome ostrich plumes are lo tie among the summer array, and the tendency, la tow-aidrooping brtrne on the mushroom (inter. Mallnee to swathed about stunning whlta hat that are further beauilfled or sweeping with ostrich feather paradise plume. Picturesque leghorn hats there are galore, and leas radical unca trimmed with rosea and velvet rlbliun. but tha decidedly new chapeau Itaa not yet arrived. , CATHERINE TALBOT. WEAR OSTRICH FEATHERS. Ostrich feather a yard long hid Irate the Farbdenne's craving for plumage adornment. And not only one, but Iwn or three of these immense plumes aru used to decorate one hat. The feathers are, of course, tha richest and beat ef their kind, the fronds curling up most gracefully and spreading out at ths ends In a rather rovd manner that Is. as tha tip nf the feather Is approached tha fronds straighten out, rurllrg up only at thrlr ends. In this way the feathers at Ilia tips hang with a ieclally graceful droop. To produce jhts novel effect It Is said that the nr placed In water so that they will dry quite fluffy and straight, and afterward merely the lips are curled up in give Ilia necessary finish. Except In plain black and while, almoat all of ara these tremendously long feather varied In their coloring. If a pale color runs up the center with the stem, tha outer edges are more deeply tinted, or vice versa; a while feelher near tha root may have ahell pink thawing at the tip. a pink will merge Into pale gray or brown and so on. TO THAT DONT DISAGREE. Colors disagree. Just as man and women do. Most shadee of rad gn together, and violet ran be combined with any shad of black, but Is nut very effective with white. It goes well with certain shades of red. Green srs must effective when combined with other tone of green. Tha different shades of brown combine charmingly. Bine and brown to an old but somewhat unfashionable rombi nation. The gold and silver that are In the lead of all trimmings Just now are with any and every rolor. There ar some combinations, however, that ar parilrularly effective. Black and silver to preferable to black and gold, but white and gold to in first fashion. COLORS - ud Dont sprinkle yourself with heavy Tour particular kind of perfume may be exceedingly obnoxious to those about you. scent. pretty blossoms, even If the process to s slow, tedious one." declared a nurseryman. "for I know of no plant that flowers during the cold weather that gives such fragrance or a sense of freshness as a miniature cherry tree, apple, peach or quince tree." Tana sugar ha been well known In Italy since the second century and has bren common In England since the Tudor j'erind. Medical aasorlatlou Is The Women' mciiiorisl to the lae to erect l r. Mary Tutnain Jacoby nf New Sulk. |