OCR Text |
Show THE SUNDAY EXAMINER: OGDEN, UTAH, SUNDAY MORNING, FEBRUARY IS, 1906 Smart Developments in the Newer Modes. RAINY-DACO ATT RE RETITAL. Tha darkaat of Oxford grays la for thl oxtreiaaly fetchlur dealga Intended for ralny-dawaar la particular, It while la amlnaatly adapted for all day waar and every day la gaoataL Tba coat I cleverly arranged 0 that Us bolero satllna may ba rithar fastened across th In tbo plot ora, ar thrown opto cheat, as ta display ths autlre vest af whita awhalr. a striped with tiny hairline ta black. Collar and cuff are la black velvet, as Is also the girdle that tops tha smart Uttla basqulna, and pieces of whita doth dotted with black velvet buttons deflua thoaa portions The aklrt Is of au estreat circular cut. with a bias aeam down th res ter front, and la am do ta Hear the Rtltrhad ground sensibly all around. trappings of tho roods ar applied, each ending la a rounded tab, to vhlrh farther place of tha lama shape In black velvet aad cloth tba latter dotted d butt one are applied with with excellent effect. Th air of tha whole dexlga h an of modish amartuesa, and charmingly Illustrates tha prevailing Idea that a practical rostuma aired not aacea-arilba a plain or an unattractive 00a. FOR THR BLENDES ESPECIALLY FluURC. Th fitted roat abows ap ta Ita very haaf poaalbtlltlea whea won by a Bleeder but prettily curved flgura, A pretty shade of frambola mohair la employed far thh model, la which tha cast dings claaaly ta th flgura at th bach aad aldaa, tha treats aad arranged with a slug I dart that raaa ap ta tha aboddxr la reach fSahloo. flrif covered huttrea make tha fastening; aid a velvet collar and caff add juat a teorh wboia. The aklrt la of softness to tha aaa of tha man gored pleated models, cut clear to th ground all around, aid flnlabsd with a velvet eon Mndlog, whlrh la applied almost after a piping fhsMot. at ths ham. TBR CHARH8 OP THR BAflQCB A y rarvad-shapa- d velvet-covere- asrr; Tt&rircmiic: CHE tlma it always Minmnm awkward on even fur of genera u. If ant a la bo rats, sard rob taralablaga. Th gowns af tba trlafar time ara somewhat knrr, am If tba Id aat ahow atgaa af tba atraaa af wear; arhlla It la aat at ail tlma wharaia fa taaaah tba spring gown for gaearai nr, albalt tba have baaa aa tba la all af tba shops for qaltu aoma fata waeka aatr. Tba Mat ail dhlrt anatoms Alla la thta charmingly. Wbaa tba tlarb of tha waaihar raaarta to raid aa ooca more thaa a Ml rot blaaaa baaaatb tha Mat. la lam af tba oMqnltaa Hngaria prad action will aata It aafllrlantl warm to wltbataad araa a awaaldarabla dro la tba UaraMawtar. And, ra paaaaat. It la to la aotrd that tba brat makore ara tal. lowing qalta a different cot for bloaaaa af ralrat aad aordoro from that wblrb appears la tba aoft, abaar mull, batlata and llnoa aura, Tba fart that It la ta ba worn ntidrr a mat laada thorn ta makr It tba flgura falrl rloaal, but with-adiaplalng aa aklmplnaaa ar ocaaU-aaaaf rat, and ravera, rolUr, calTa aad aarb ara Intorilnrd with a priaceaa haircloth ratbrr thaa with caavaa, thl ta bring abaolatet ImpermeaU craaalng ar cruahtag. Aa Itrm thla far tha amateur wha la anuall aarromfal with bar Mart blotto, for thla la ena of tha Uttla trlfloa that arc aa Important fiarlog tt nt a me-torl-al ta a complete aacreoa. A al n Idrant Indeed, were It ant for tba fart that tha tailor blmaelf an , aamt-flttla- g -- slngla-bnaata- deolg-aatr- a tha model ana would never auopect Ita utilitarian aapect, for there la aa hint whataorrer, aura, perhaps, la tha length of tho aklrt It jnet barely rleara tba ground all armind that It la other thaa an ertrrmely stylish and attrarttra walk- ing guwa. are bklrta of the dreader tallnr-moda- a quite a little longer thaa woo tho mode lent tprlug. An lin-an tha ground tn front, at leant taro on tba el dra, lengthening to aonir II or 11) ta tha bark to the height and atjrlo of the wearer- - la none ton mni-h- . If the very la teat tendenrr la tn tie followed And Tha jacket bodies la being enthnalaa tlially pushed by certain French makrre. who lank ta It to aupply Juat tha amount of novelty that the opening aeaaon demands. With tha Mlrlera aeaaon In tall alng aver there, end our own Aouthern aeaaon not a whit behind, the mild weather at lb nee place makee thla mode peeutlarly acceptable. Tha leaders nf Ibe mods ara haring those made ea that the Introduction nf a thin mull or rhlltaa Mouse beneath will not at all Interfere with the at, and makers ou thla aide are not alow ta adopt this aenallile Idea. Oil the ether head, there are many who have the tailor niaka this tn he worn Just aa a drrsa waist Is. with separate aad separable chemisette, relying upon a separate wrap nf Itiinrloiis material and artistic cut to mmplote tbo costume for outdoors upon days when tha weather demands a rap nf annio sort The present march of taahlon arenia to ha upsetting the march of tho season, eo far as clothes art ponreroed, at any rate. The flitting southward to meet tha spring In an established custom abroad with everybody who ran at all afford It. id with many who canont. And since Amerkana cull tha beat from the n tniua of all the nations or the world, we. ton, tuts adopted this, and the southern shaaou Is rapidly hemming a strong factor In rmnmerctal affairs-I- n ear nothing at all of aortal reoulta and poasthlllilca. The ronatant demand for something different la the mainspring of fashion, and nowhera does It assert Itself so strenuously aa In tho new end novel The desire for a rnmplete rhanga extends even to Mndame'e wardrobe. whea she hies herself away from home; aad the southern aeaaon makes a charming opportunity for this, n time to Iff nw mode and fashions, to dei.-ln- p accepted ideas and reunrrrct aoma that bars fallen Into deauctodc. Franee tries the latest Ideas af flvera and dtslaoera all along the Riviera. Amall and onlmportant. comparatively, must be the house that doesn't announce apnn Ita stationery: gncmraala a Xtec. or lieata Carlo, or Cooney or else along tho Cote d Afire. t m the mala heosa at Faria, however, tint brings eat the new modes, the new models and the staff of the designer's 'make, hut hasty and tranalent trip ta the Aonth, merely eo that they ms be able to see what their competitors are ' doing: what this, the! or th other famooa beauty or art res nr aortal leader I wearing, and Juat la what esteem thair owa prod net Iona arc bring held. Tha aslom. for truth II I. that a series hat vary the appearance to store tar a ruir-itnf gowns, h on that every Frenchwoman le ra fta mlad. Several Sets tor tat aamt costume mad-la- k oma-wha- aama-wher- e 111 auA-rirnll- Modes. ta the law, an.1 with the excesstva rates upon baggage the perMwial silos anes ta hut M poiimla tn ca.-l- i tlrkrt. ami tha ra eeasite rules art piwltltely evtorllnn to tha American mind Madame wlaely limits her trunks to Just aa many gown aa will see her mtuforinMy through the length of her stay. There I, unite a rear series of colors being tried out Jut lion. One no er can tell either of two thing, Just where th lightning will strike and what I In. ra price of fashion tni r or will i 3. mor has been Inlay rlrvulntlr: the report that brilliant rob. ring of all kinds were tn rule. end. In and behold! all of th millinery times that the representative modistes of frame are maklug up are all of them iliol, rather deep and Intense, I. aad altogether In the Inml that we were led to expect. That there la a vast variety of color, displayed and all of It eermiug In lit, pretty well, la reassuring news, for a r season la full of pltralla tar tha unwary. The very l.itra, trcinl t.. manifest Itself a for o!..r eonihlnniloua that are dull, deeper than the pastel effect, but ttnllke the pastel tints, those ones are not dear In coior. Tha habitues of the Klvlera. whether Frenrh, English. Russian or other nationality, mostly adopt the French faahl-of assisting nature hr the ae of a little makeup. The American woman, on the contrary, I, nstisl'r content to trust to her natural roi.irinc, a. that It does not by one means tallow la( ,. color orbeuies tliat ate l.ivl.e roo over there win he rt s'l sure of m-- ceptanoe oe adnpf'nn over Imre. Indent, where the millinery are at all . h certain, either they will he npnn the at.rlte,. or else ii, rierer milliner no:,t u.ix am) Intermli-- e coir.plemeuti.rr shade ahldi .; b.In tha two wl'liin the Muiiii of TRATELINO COBTCKE-Oatargray grtffoaett makes thla traveling gown, upoa which th whit vest braided la black aoatarhe, black velvet bxtteoa aad Mack braid make tor exgood trimming effect. The coat I an tremely navel cut, suggesting faintly tha Empire mod, the vast ala m tallowing tha antllna of th flgura. Tha sleeve la laid In tall at th top. tha tain tltrhed pleats below tha elbow and th plain cuff trimmed with braid. Tba aklrt hewa that smart French bias aaam la front, velvet buttons doxrn rithar aids Ita oatllaa, tha aide fall and tha back Juat barely toacblag th ground. A scalloped volant eo forma, braid trimmed, la posed oo tba bam. TOE FETCHING LITTLE COFFER JACKET. Tba tallora have revived that fetching Uttla cotta jacket sacs mora; somawhit different, of coon, thaa Ma last appearand presented. Tha on pictured la In very pretty and becoming shad of roe red airmen no, with taffeta strappings and af pleating! of u slightly lighter abide front taffeta. Thera ta a vast effact la shadof white linen embroidered la rasa ings; thla bordered by a ribbon cravat threaded through faarltal gold clasps at dost )i terra!. Tha yoke affect Is defined with a richeltca pleating of silk, and the Httle pleated part atanda fall away from the figure, so that th silk eodrcled wiM-lla- i looks ao much th more awnder by elcomparison. Tha alaevo Is Juat a leoat bow puff, with a shaped frill trimmed with hands of silk. Tba aklrt present a naval cut. a hip yoka aad tha front breadth bring cut la aaa, and tha eirralar aide applied so that th hem appear up oi th yoke. Two deep tncka ar prreaed d ham som flat abovo tbo eight yards around. WHITE REMAINS IN HIGH TOGCR- Hlgh-clu- a tallora ara maklug a a tar larga number of wklte cootameo Informal wear, and thoaa that ar tetrad tar Southern no at present ara many of them of a heavy quality whita of white. hearletta. All of tha Ivory, old Ivory, blase dc perte, cream and. water whit appear aa tha Hat. Tba one that la shown displays os of those very novel ttttte coon that are os Chirac terlatk of the new modes. Betting cko ly to the figure at the bark and ride the front! are of armlflttlng character, d am so disposed that the fastening may bo thrown open to dtepUT trimmed revere. Bread whit site braid mikaa the trimming, nod a ratfllH ct Valeoeiennes lace all aroaud th notched edges over the hell adds mock to th dainty effect. The sleeve I a tall pxffr to the elbow, a tabbed cuff falling a deep lingerie rathe Sana lb. IfODIBH Fashions from France. The Riviera Season a Trial Horse for the d BODICE. Even tha tailor la taking up tha aorel jacket bodice with enthusiasm, aad tha 111 uat ratios shows a charming development of thin becoming mode. Tha heat of those are so fashioned that a very hear b lease may ba warn bnaaath without ta tha least Interfering with the moothaeas of the flt. Tha see pictured employ! oaa af tha novel apricot ahaden af kenrletta, with btowa velvet, and a pals yellow rlhhoo, with a hairline border of brown. In dlspoard la a wharlad pah tern upon tha aklrt. Thera la a vest of lara, loosely laid over cblffoe, and this la likewise need la tha hark, tha craaaad strap of brown velrst ribbon nuking tar a pretty eon treat. Tha aieave la a losaa double pair to below th elbow, where a lara cuff jolna K. Tha aklrt Is of aoms-whcircular rat, ah tried over tho hip and filling lu straight full folds ta tha fact Th shirred ribbon la dlapooed la a looped patten ea aad above the hem. requires, fart, la view of atla la that tba America a tallora are eostimia, rorlrlag tha old tlma raln-d- a Redfero baa brought ant nna model that eo ba bound la ta delightwidely copied, fully doer It combine both fa thine aed prartlrallty. It ta tha .aenethla woman who, la ordering a gowu of thla character, fullowa tha very la teat mode; aalag due dlarrlmlna-llim- , of con ran, aa that the blaarre hi aralded, and thoee featurea that are erne of faahloaahle fallowing far a rraaoaahle length af time only are adopted. The thrifty rartalrana, thrifty erra In her extravagances, uanally baa a hroad faring af volretera ta aaatrh tba cloth ta a tint applied aa tha beta of tha aklrt. or. If the aklrt ba aaa of thoaa that have the lining earned la at tba hem and walatbaad, then tha velaa binding takra Ita placa. Thera la aarb a delightful dlreralty la atM thla eprlng that each aad every typo af genre aimply cnanet help but and thorn aallefartary. Tho astro niely slender gfure will wdrema with joy the return af that vary efertlve style kunwn formerly aa tha coffee Jacket Of roarae. la Ita revival quite a new aapert la given It. aad tha vogue of tha abort aleevr chlmre la charmingly with thla model, Aad equally appropriate for the alrader gurea, and ra penally to the Immature Agate af the schoolgirl whea rleverly rut. ba It andarataed -- la that deelga that tope a kilted aklrt with a It lurh mat. Tha back and aldaa of tba apprortd atyle ta thla ara chma A I ting, and tha fronts ara managed with that Frenrh dart that raaa to the ahoalder aom, and which will afford Juet that apriug orer tba boat which aa all too alender flgura aa much J&z tkz Szzktsr rzezzxE liras tar hr Mraw shape are well In the lead, and It ta ths preaevt hat. rather than Ibe made one that one sea worn by the moat fastidious. (irecn In a wonderful numlwr of rlc-nt- . abode I in the height such hnta. and able flower anil shades and lone are displayed-gra- y the blue green greens, a term of popularl'y for the trimming ta lurarl. aim rtldu.ua. Ko many nf this springlike roor green, allven given, and the fruit that la likely to prove since It embraces a wide misleading, range of subtle tan-- s. However, all and any shade l.r green make a delightful for a background well chosen rolor acbeii'C an lend, liarlf well to all aorta of mlors rrhrinrs and combi-nation- The violet tones are meriting with a enth'isiaa'lc acceptanve, not only among tha matrons and dowagers to Whom Ihrv seem peciiliarly well anltrd. hut to ilelui igntes. and rrrn girls yet Is th echonlroniu, as well. tt'd rose tint , --p piomlneut; and the iiiiMoa.he sh:id.-are iinlte a run. They rertnlnlv do aharing T.u-.-l a neutral moat backgrmiii. the now. 1 hey fur color douhtlesa for their strong vogut lull are tint Nre-lall- r hecombig In however. It mint I, renfrsaed: although the ismnl iMig . to trim anch aunahadra up with Mn.-h.-- s Pf TiT11j log. Empire green vlvi-- ,oral. the tree cardinal red one hrar'rg rather more . than a hint of flaiue coloring -aiaxarln blue and the tones being mostly rmploved f..r ibis pnri(a. Ribbons make the titinmlcgs usually; ai-- t of piece bough appli.j-je- , reltrt, Bilk parasol, and moire ar- - not gt all r,n"ommon. Those aiiinll hut highly rgpcDsIvr shops along th tli'.ric Chailea Trola, In klnuta Cprlo. gre d:playlng the moat exquisite rlTci-- i In lingerie, gowns, pataaola, costa and linndhak-,-. all embroidered to match; and a inllllu r next door displays hata that will go exquisitely with those rootly The Ungcrlc handbag Is quite a nove'ty; and It I cleverly contrived so that the lingerie portion la Juat caught into the frame with a reIlk movable tng. somewhat a paper fastener but Infinitely smaller. Tlie frames are all of efnioln, or of tortoise ah'dl with ormolu mountings; and the lining nr nf'.or tha hag Itaelf, for the bet a rover, la usually lingerie pnrti. a lit white of delicately tlated satin and I'ned wlh su.de. fonts Id rral Irish rrochet. of Oirrlck-niacpmof Imerirk lace and of linen are on display with a card attached that bear th legend Veritable Irlsadalsel" which h who runs may read aa Truly Irish"' Certain It Is that th Ktneruld Isle, that in.M distressful country, la on the crest of the war at present; for lrih hand work of all kinds Is at a positive and to be gowned In fal.rl.ai of Irish manufacture mean that on Is In the :l.i-- most ex'cry In st-- -- and pensive of the r.rnlc. lints and toqu- of the real Ir.,h crochet are among the pretties' of the season presentation,: and Htt are -- srailv tr.nvnid with mara luuit a- - I o.Mirli fe.iihor. 1). easinnni.y lit Me ir!ni r blmn Is bat the cor -- p a of this la.r and sarla cr taffeta rlt.l u , pot eiiroureged. t'. oftcnlrg Ipucb of velvet bring Juat the Ji EAZTiYUAY CtofTt&ZE J&SVZVaJi thing tn bring out tha bcanty of tha lacs to perfection. With the prevailing rrexr for handiwork, tha new gloves ara all of them embroidered on the edge, whether this ba at tha wrist, the elbow or tha sbonlder. In connection with those two latter lengths, smart ihnpa are showing jarretelles or farter strap. In embroidered ribbon with an elastic run In to be slipped on to keep the glove up on tha aria. They are not supposed to match the glove, save In the rase of plain black or white, but rather tn correspond with tba color of the gown. No tol'etre seem complete In th latest fashions without some touch of jewelry lu It makeup. Sometime this takes tba form of exquisitely jeweled buttons; In the collnr clasp or supports; In tba chain that acta aa a foundation for alt of three little of which the Pariotenn la so rnd. and to tha end of whlck 00 rarely And a watch attached: la the bracelet whlrh appears aa tha wrist of the Ini.g glove; or tbo aortea of bangles, m two pf them even angeeatlog tho other, that tho younger section of society 0 favor. The touch of geld and jewels must Ire apparent tome where. Tortoise shell fa being revived for counties use; and there la a lively demand for tt for parasol handles the lal--- 1 are not at all nallka alpenstocks In Ire and shape when tt la used either pinlr, nr else overlaid with a tracery of Fire those little vanity gold or silver. r.ire it the tad of the moment; and the rnrre'-- t thing la to hare one' crest and In gold, with Mrtfaftonea, the atone, or aoma ether Jewel Inset oa th coter. itr-k- The real tortoise shell, and tbi anilrer are being vied for hat bn chiefly In square designs; and tha hi to match ara supposed to tadode 01 alsea and shapes. Pina to matrh ai enrourared, variety bring the obj) those as la so many other thlngi now. Igrg round halls, pear a ealiea and octagons, are prei top, to more fantastic outlines: and too. arc oftentimes overlaid with tra la recoccQ deatg . of the precious n Fashion Notes. The handkerchief pocket la detail derived from our g mothers times. It la moat charmli Mpeatry. lined with quilted fstln. with dull gold braid and suspended dull gilt chain and ring. The new cotton drees veil Inga no 'refection of rha wreavera and dyer They quite outdo tba wool aad tha Bating 1 weave la treautv. Border designs are tba tatrst In summer stuff. Organdies, vriifngx tissues to dotted hare a border. ID or 12 pittenn Inrbea on on i thla In htg blossoms aad follagt la oral colon. Linen or dark oxford mntehlna color of the frark are premised aa a niT BftVlJy, The low hx,r dressings that have such v.ig'ie of late are bring dlapinn thelatesi Frenrh faahlon of drentni hair extremely blah and far forward clove, which are worn wltl short sleeved row no nr street suit 1 more fashlouahla tt.i a than th neary all of are gown seen except o when they P'elnly labored order, having tha aieave which Juat turns tha aibaw. volvat-boan- double-breaste- |